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GoblinBomb posted:Wow, that does look so much better than that other one. I would definitely get in on a group buy on that. Same. That looks loving incredible. If there is any serious interest in a group buy we should do it.
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Mar 9, 2009 20:42
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Well, my 6 month old Robbins cloth top was slashed open last night, even though there was nothing in the car to steal. Any suggestions for replacements? I really wasnt happy with the cloth as it required a lot more cleaning than I expected. Are the vinyl tops easier to maintain?
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Jun 27, 2009 21:06
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puttz posted:My Vinyl top is horrible to maintain... but im the dumbass that wanted a white top. I think it looks good (mariner blue '90) but it's soooo hard to keep clean. They are, but right now I have the tan cloth top and its a complete hassle to keep clean. It tends to get black marks all over from where the frame presses on it a bit so I was hoping a vinyl top would be a bit easier to clean.
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Jul 1, 2009 22:15
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Anybody wanna recommend me some strictly summer tires for my 95 M? All four are in need of replacement and one of them went flat the other day, so looks like I finally have to shell out for em. I'm not particularly looking for something that will last forever, since I dont put all that many miles on my car. It'd be nice if I could use them for AutoX as well as daily driving. We dont get much ice or snow here and when we do I have a second car available. Also, anybody know anything about these GAHH tops GoMiata.net is selling? My last top was a Robbins Top and I wasnt particularly thrilled with it. I basically just want a vinyl top with a glass rear window and defroster.
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Jul 22, 2009 00:06
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Phone posted:Hankook R-S2. If you have 15" wheels, go for the R-S3s. I do have the 15's, but isnt 225 a bit wide for a 6 inch wheel? Im thinking I'll just go with the RS-2's. They're a bit cheaper and seem like they would fit my needs perfectly.
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Jul 22, 2009 01:50
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I just went ahead and ordered the RS-2s after reading some reviews online. I had a set of the RT615's for my Cobra, but they get spendy quickly, haha.
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Jul 22, 2009 07:27
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destructo posted:Post how many times you've replaced your slave cylinder. Once on my mom's 91 Miata and once on my 95. Both have held for a awhile now, knock on wood. The first went out in downtown during rush hour as I was getting toward the freeway and the second went when I was on my way to an incredibly important meeting one morning. Super fun. At least the job is stupid easy.
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Oct 29, 2009 21:46
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Anyone have any tips for removing what looks like road sealant from my cars paint? I just noticed some of it kicked up onto the areas behind my wheels the other day. I assume it happened when they slurried the roads here. Right now, it doesnt look like it will come off easily. Think a body shop could do something about it?
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Nov 7, 2009 17:35
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Hog Obituary posted:Did you try anything labeled "bug and tar remover"? Yes, and it did absolutely nothing. This stuff isnt really tarry, its hard and rocky.
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Nov 8, 2009 05:23
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Shlomo Palestein posted:My next door neighbor took one look at my tarspots and said WD40 would do the trick; oddly, miata.net recommends the same thing. Haven't tried it yet though, so it might be an old wives' tale. I'll give it a shot after this rain lets up. Just finished up the timing belt/water pump yesterday. Made me remember why I jumped from an MR2 to a Miata. I was only on my back for 20 minutes tops for that whole job.
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Nov 9, 2009 10:54
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IOwnCalculus posted:What were you on your back for - jacking it up, or the swaybar? I managed to do mine completely from up top thanks to ramps and a socket / breaker combo set that can clear the NB's swaybar and get the crank bolt out. Just the swaybar, and two of the radiator fan bolts which I didnt actually need to take off. The swaybar had to come off so we could get an impact gun on the crank pulley bolt.
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Nov 9, 2009 20:22
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IOwnCalculus posted:Oh, yeah, no way you'll get an impact on it without pulling the swaybar. I'll stick with the Harbor Freight 3/8" drive breaker + Craftsman 21mm 3/8" socket, it's the only combo I could find that would clear. Yeah I railed on that motherfucker with a breaker bar and a 4 foot piece of pipe and it wouldnt budge. One cheap harbor Freight Impact Gun and 5 minutes later had that thing off and movin on. Our biggest problem was that we didnt mark the old belt up and had to reset the cam gears from zero. Seems nobody has any detailed instructions for doing that, but nailed it on the first try.
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Nov 9, 2009 23:14
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IOwnCalculus posted:That part actually wasn't bad. I tried to do the whole use two crescent wrenches and a clamp to hold the cams in place but I lost my position at one point; the cam gears are marked well enough that it really isn't an issue, as long as you know which marks should line up where. Yeah, we just agonized over it for a bit because we weren't 100% sure of how the cam gears were supposed to go back onto the cams, since it gives you three different options. Ended up just going with the way that made the most sense and turning the engine over more than the usual 2 times to make sure nothing bound up and everything worked out for the best. Also, any reason why people pull the crank pulley off using the four 12mm(10?) instead of just busting off the 21mm bolt and pulling the pulley and timing belt retaining disc all at once?
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Nov 10, 2009 08:23
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So my top was slashed open in my parking lot again. The car was unlocked and there was nothing in it to steal. At this point moving is definitely an option, but I think I want to seek out a hard top. The closest one I found is this: http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/pts/1464475609.html I sent him some follow up questions about the glass and mounting hardware, but is there anything else I should ask about other than brand and what not?
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Nov 18, 2009 01:41
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destructo posted:Shape of the glass doesn't look like the Snugtop, and yeah, definitely find out what the rest of the stripping is like. You can pick up a new "carbon fiber" hardtop off clubroadster.net for a little bit more. Looks like the group buy closed down, or am I missing something there? I'd rather buy the top new so I know exactly what I'm getting but most new tops have been incredibly expensive.
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Nov 18, 2009 02:36
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http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/pts/1471159491.html If I drive up there and this thing is in decent shape (I have to repaint it regardless) how would I tell if its worth the money? I'm really agonizing over finding a replacement top here because we're in the middle of a fuckton of rain right now and no amount of duct tape can keep my car from flooding nearly every night. I honestly wish a shitload of physical pain on whoever slashed my top because clearly they werent out to steal anything, just causing damage.
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Nov 21, 2009 03:02
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Phone posted:Everything that I've heard about non-OEM tops is that they really blow rear end. If I get pictures of this top how would I tell if it is a Mazda top? Also, this popped up the other day and is about 9 hours away. How much should I consider offering on this thing? http://www.miata.net/cgi-bin/isc/cl...prevaction=show
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Nov 21, 2009 03:25
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So its proving pretty much impossible to locate an OEM top anywhere within reasonable distance. The only ones that come up are really poorly done aftermarket tops that mount with screws and poo poo like that. So, like someone mentioned earlier, I started looking at what appear to be decent quality aftermarket tops. It appears some people have dropped out of the group buy for: http://www.aerokits.net/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=75_194&products_id=1896 I'm not really a fan of the CF look at all and would just have it painted to body color. The GB price is $1300 shipped which is a pretty good deal if I can get in on it. The other option, that seems to make more sense, is to buy http://www.aerokits.net/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=75_194&products_id=4037 which is just a basic fiberglass top that will probably end up being around $1000 shipped. I cant find any reviews on this one at all and am a little wary of it. Are there any real downsides to the first top? Reviews seem to be positive, and regardless of what I think of the carbon fiber overlay, its a pretty good deal. Just to be sure, there is no problem painting on clear coated carbon fiber, yeah? At this point I'll take all the help I can get because I need a top soon. Its been pouring here the past few weeks and I really dont want small leaks to start creating rust under my carpet.
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Nov 27, 2009 08:39
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Blaise posted:Replaced the water thermistor on my '92 today (CEL #9). drat removing the coilpack is a bitch.. the bottom bolt in the back, yeah, not putting that back in. When I did my timing belt I found out that my bottom bolt was loose. While I did other stuff my OCD friend fiddled around with that stupid thing until he got it tight. Took him a good 20 minutes, and he has small hands. I would have never gotten near it with my giant rear end hands. We both just assumed it came from the engine being mounted transversely in other applications where it would have been quite easy to get at. Still, stupid design.
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Nov 30, 2009 10:01
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velocityJE posted:eh, 300 dollars difference + the hard top makes the car look a bit sportier, i think i'll spring for it. Plus your hard top can never be slashed. Having your top slashed sucks. Especially when it happens twice. In the winter. Soft tops are gay.
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Dec 7, 2009 03:44
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Phone posted:Who makes the CF fastback? Is it even available for purchase yet? I saw one awhile back on some forums, but was told they were still working on the final product.
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Dec 10, 2009 06:05
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IOwnCalculus posted:I have giant goddamn Sasquatch hands and didn't have any trouble with that job. Did you pull the passenger wheel off? Same, and I dont recall pulling the wheel off.
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Dec 11, 2009 06:54
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Chimin in to say that angled picks made getting the seal out a breeze. Didnt scratch any of them because I'm a cool guy 
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Jan 5, 2010 06:03
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Tactical Bonnet posted:
Oh cool, I'm in this club too!
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Feb 12, 2010 01:16
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Hog Obituary posted:Just installed my Bosch H4 lenses and holy poo poo are they an improvement. I knew my sealed beams weren't great, but now I see just how awful they really were. I want miiiiiiiiiine. I ordered them on the 15th and still havent gotten the email telling me they were shipped. When did you order yours?
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Mar 6, 2010 08:24
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Cool, my groupbuy lights shipped today! Should be here on Monday. I can't wait! Maybe this will give me a chance to finally wash it.
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Mar 11, 2010 04:27
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Just so I'm sure, the little rubber bit that seals up the plug on these Bosch H4's doesnt work with the Miata, yeah? I cant see any way to fit it over the giant square plug, but it seems like something that shouldnt be left off.
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Mar 16, 2010 23:08
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Yeah, I figured it out. I just kind of jammed the plug on over the top of them and they clicked down. Should have tried that before I posted, haha.
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Mar 17, 2010 00:11
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mobn posted:It is one of the most insidiously foul smelling substances I've ever encountered. It was all I could smell for a couple days after I changed mine. When I changed the diff oil on my Fbody the GM replacement stuff was grape scented. It smelled like grape death.
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Mar 20, 2010 05:10
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aventari posted:What do you guys mean by the turret? I'd like to replace all the fluids in my 99, and i would just guess there is the tranny and diff to do after the oil. Am I wrong? Theres a little bit on the top of the transmission that has a tiny amount of transmission fluid in it. Heres a mnet post: http://www.miata.net/garage/trans/everything.html The turret stuff is toward the bottom and its very easy to do.
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Mar 22, 2010 06:13
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Tactical Bonnet posted:Will my standard 2x3 foot drip pan not do the job? Mine does (My oil pan, that is). I've never removed the wheel to get at it and I've got huge hands, but its probably just a matter of preference. I generally get it off, get the new one on and then spray down the area with degreaser. Its really a pretty simple job, I think the biggest thing to worry about would be jacking up the car by the aluminum oil pan, but even that would be fairly difficult.
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Apr 13, 2010 05:37
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Thats how I do it. You might have to twist your arm a bit but getting at the filter from the top really isnt that bad. Just make sure when you put the new one on you actually get it tight. For me, my arm has to bend kind of funny which doesnt give me much leverage to turn the filter and I've been a bit loose with it once or twice.
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Apr 13, 2010 06:09
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Guinness posted:I also get to the filter on my NA by going through the passenger side wheel well, but I don't go through the hassle of taking the wheel off. I just turn the wheels all the way to the left and that gives me enough room to reach in and get the filter. Same car as you, so nope  Just takes some practice getting the filter in and out of the area and getting your elbow and wrist in the right spot.
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Apr 13, 2010 07:47
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| # ¿ May 15, 2024 17:33 |
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Atomizer posted:Why is it so difficult to find Redline products? I'm looking for the MT-90 I've been talking about and none of the local places (Chicagoland) carry it. They carry other brands, but no Redline anything. I can get it from Amazon for $12.50 per quart but I can't see why it's so rare. I have to buy it from a drag racing shop here. No idea why its so tough to find, but try looking for performance auto parts places, they should have it.
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Apr 24, 2010 22:29
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