Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





I haven't tried that style of puller before but I might pick one up next time I need to do one. I have the claw-style one and... it works, I guess? I've managed to bend it before the seal gave up a few times.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





I've found the older I get, the less tolerance I have for working in extremely adverse conditions (heat, rain, last minute crunches). My cars are either new enough or optional enough that I use the luxury of time to put off doing work until it can be done in ideal scenarios.

I've done enough changing water pumps in parking lots (that one was a motherfucker of a roadside repair).

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Super Serious Actual Drifters use a hydraulic handbrake, often actuating a separate set of rear calipers.

And they still clutch kick.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Suburban Dad posted:

Yeah, lifting a 14" wheel/tire makes you feel like superman too.

I got some 15s for my Opel and I'm pretty sure with tires mounted, they weigh less than the bare wheels do for anything else I own. Refreshing after hauling around 33" BFGs.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Keeping the cams in place on the BP engine is easy. The cams have hex flats on them, get an adjustable wrench on each one aimed up so they cross, clamp them together.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





The important bit is unrestricted flow. It doesn't necessarily need the extra heat rejection of the core, but it does need coolant passing through it. A clogged heater core, or just capping off the lines, would be equally bad. Looping the lines would be fine.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





That just looks like "the inside of an old Miata top" to me. They fade as they age.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





When my NB's slave cylinder failed, the master went pretty shortly afterwards. If I were doing that job again today on that car (or, for that matter, if I ever do it on my TJ) I'd do both at the same time and save the future labor.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





He means hitting whatever the taper seats into, not the end of the joint itself - like smacking the knuckle to get a tie rod to release.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





um excuse me posted:

Anyone here ever successfully reuse a head gasket? I've spent almost $100 on head gaskets and can't keep replacing them every single time the head comes off.

The Sloppy Mechanics way to reuse head gaskets, at least on a LS, is to spray some copper sealant on it, reuse the TTY head bolts, and send it with 14 pounds of boost.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Yeah, all NBs have a fake gauge driven by a switch.

I don't see how it would be possible for an engine to deliver rapidly fluctuating oil pressure like that, so I'd start by replacing the "sending unit" which is just a pressure-activated switch.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Possibility it ate some foreign object in the past and has a slightly bent valve?

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





"poo poo, we're all gonna die soon, better get that convertible I've been promising myself for decades."

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





K all the things.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





mobby_6kl posted:

I guess that's different because I don't think NBs ever came with 14" and OTOH, had 16" on some special editions and those look pretty good IMO:

Cheap / early NBs definitely came with 14s, mine had them.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Yeah, it is possible for poo poo to seize up so badly that all you can do is replace parts. Had that happen on my MS3 - bad wheel bearing with a hub, knuckle, and CV that bent the press before even budging.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





captainOrbital posted:


e2: okay okay given that one had the choice between these two:

Specimen One:
NB1
90k miles / Some work done, headers, flywheel, rollcage, nice wheels
$4.5k

Specimen Two:
NB2 w/VVT & Foglights
70k miles / potentially stock save the shift knob
$6.9k

If the condition on the NB1 is good and the mods don't appear to have been hamfisted onto the car, I'd go with that one.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Do you not have a spare? This is why you have a spare.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Nice.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Huttan posted:

I've got a 30th anniversary edition (the orange ones), it only comes with an air pump in the "trunk". No spare, no room for a spare.

Ugh, I keep forgetting that a spare is now optional on a lot of vehicles. gently caress that noise.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Could be an internal / bypass leak in the master, too.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





They're also wonderfully easy to replace. Completely agreed that it's not worth going far in diagnosing exactly where the failure is because the best answer is always replace both.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





If there's any sort of functional limited slip in there, that in conjunction with the massive increase in tire weight / diameter could cause problems. Same way a skimpy little Dana 30 will hold up better to big tires when it's an open diff, but the action of a limited slip / locker / spool brings much larger shock loads.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Yes, replace both. They're basically wear items on Miatas.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply