MIATA THREAD - My Third Gear Syncro Is On Grindr

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > MIATA THREAD - My Third Gear Syncro Is On Grindr

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

Given my custom title, I have to post here, right?

# ¿ Oct 11, 2007 20:04

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# ¿ Apr 29, 2024 07:08

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

Q: What's the gayest thing you can do with a Miata?

A:

Wrar posted:

I might be selling mine pretty soon. We'll see.

# ¿ Oct 12, 2007 01:55

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

BoxBot: I'm as far as I know exactly the same size and I daily drive a '91. To be perfectly honest, I don't fit perfectly, but it's well within what I'm willing to put up with to drive that car.

Don't expect to be able to freely move your knee under the steering column, but don't think you'll be crowded either. I've taken 6 hour drives in it without being at all uncomfortable.

# ¿ Oct 12, 2007 09:56

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

mobn posted:

Two-tone can work is you match the right colors.

djcommie has been telling me since day one to put a red top on my mariner blue '91.

I dunno. Maybe.

# ¿ Oct 19, 2007 08:04

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

My car (NA) feels NOTICABLY faster if I take it all the way out to redline. Assuming they kept that true in the NC, you really do need to do that.

My car seems to be fastest when I use the fuel cut to pop out of gear, slam into the next. Sounds cool, too!

Krakkles fucked around with this message at 20:00 on Nov 3, 2007

# ¿ Nov 3, 2007 19:55

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

IOwnCalculus posted:

Yeah, the BP is known for having a noisy valvetrain. It's really nothing to worry about.

And heavier oil fixes it, as well. Mine did it until I started running 15w40 :haw:

# ¿ Nov 7, 2007 20:04

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

Slopehead posted:

Fake edit: Phone, what is an LSD, and why is a torson swap needed?

Limited Slip Differential. Torsen is a brand of LSD, the one used in some factory miatas.

It keeps power going to both rear wheels rather than just the one.

# ¿ Feb 13, 2008 04:49

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

Amir posted:

Exactly.
The wheel spins at a very fast rate. Even a tiny bit of anti-seize has the potential to be flung outwards by centripetal force. I wouldn't risk it.
Besides, bashing on the rotor with a hammer to free it from the hub is half the fun!

And how would that put you backward into a tree?

Any small amount of anti-seize that makes it onto the rotor surface is going to burn off the first time you touch the brakes.

Phone posted:

I found this BEHIND the radio today when I was working on my car. Like, behind the cubby... where you have to remove the console, pull eyeball vents, etc. BEHIND.

On the upside, that's a terrific album.

# ¿ May 2, 2008 07:54

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

ChiliMac posted:

I will also use this advice--do/should you resurface the flywheel while you are at it? (my car is still a bit under 70k) How do you locate someone to do the resurfacing? Edit: can you remove the flywheel and take it somewhere or do they have to do it on the car? I'd rather not pay for labor to drop the transmission. edit2: that is assuming I'm capable of doing it myself which may be questionable

Conventional wisdom is that you should always have a fresh surface when you put a new clutch on. Any transmission or machine shop should be able to do it, and in my area at least (So Cal) some NAPA stores have the facilities as well.

It does not need to be on or anywhere near the car.

# ¿ Jul 31, 2008 12:44

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

azzenco posted:

How slow can you go with the top down before you start to get wet? I was going down the highway when it started to rain so I put the top back up when I found an overpass and was amazed I wasn't wet.

Slowest I've gone was about 25mph.

# ¿ Aug 1, 2008 10:59

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

Guinness posted:

So yeah, people who claim to get near/above 30 are either the most passive drivers ever, only drive on rural highways with 50mph speed limits (and stick to it), or are plain lying.

I average 26 in my '91. I'm ... well, aggressive would probably be the right word.

# ¿ Nov 20, 2009 07:36

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

Whoever said the slave cylinder was an easy job obviously has small girlish hands. Also, I think I'm hosed - it looks like somebody rounded off the hard line. I'm currently stuck trying to get that off, then theoretically to put the new one on. It doesn't help that I absolutely cannot get into there - I'm either working one-handed or under the car with no visibility.

I hate my car sometimes.

# ¿ Dec 10, 2009 22:56

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

IOwnCalculus posted:

I have giant goddamn Sasquatch hands and didn't have any trouble with that job. Did you pull the passenger wheel off?

Yeah, wheel is off. Good lord that was a pain, but it's done.

Krakkles fucked around with this message at 01:59 on Dec 11, 2009

# ¿ Dec 10, 2009 23:08

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

After it rained pretty badly the other day, my car was soaked. This has happened to it many times before, and it's never actually been a problem - car still drove fine - but this time it seems to have gotten it. The car will rev (in neutral or in gear) until ~2250rpm, then it will sputter. It returns to idle if you let off the throttle, or will bounce off that RPM (like a revlimit) if you don't.

I warmed the car up, and it continued. Best idea I can come up with is that on O2 sensor lead is shorted, perhaps? The reason I guess this is that the engine runs fine in what should be open-loop RPM range, but dies as it tries to leave it. (The RPM it dies at matches the rpm that the car begins injecting fuel independent of throttle input on decel - where my exhaust starts popping, basically.)

Any better ideas?

This is a '91 mostly stock but piece of crap 1.6L 5sp.

Also, update: The car has now been sitting inside for 72+ hours - the inside is still pretty soaked (the carpet, basically), but the car started up and seems to operate correctly (rev in neutral = no problems).

# ¿ Feb 10, 2010 08:56

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

dorquemada posted:

Sure did, but at an intersection and it was some tools in a Golf. Oh, irony. Anyway, I blew a kiss at them and told them I'd teach them to drive stick if they asked nice (in my very best 'you got a purty mouth' voice).

I've gotten:

"Your car is a lovely little fag car!"

and

"Nice car! Do they make it in mens?"

I don't think the second one was thought through too well :gay:

# ¿ Feb 10, 2010 09:18

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

Ziploc posted:

I think I'm going to hop on this too. I'm tired of replacing Silvania Silverstars every year.

What's the difference between these and the Hella Ecodes?

Yeaaaaaaah, me too. I guess this will motivate me to aim the lights, too.

# ¿ Feb 14, 2010 08:53

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

Tactical Bonnet posted:

Am I a total oval office for leaving my new headlights aimed slightly high? I figure they're not high enough to blind anyone, but just high enough that if I pop the brights on some human being driving around with his fog lights on I can sunburn his retinas.

I'd say so. The brights are a pretty big shift - completely above the low beam cutoff.

# ¿ Mar 20, 2010 22:57

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

Phatty Slayer posted:

Hey I just got my 96' out and the prognosis is bad, rust claimed my frame. Anyone in the Salt Lake area interested in a parts car? Hard top inclusion negotiable. Sad day:(

does it have popups? I need 1 screw for the headlight bezel and four for the trim, i'd love to drop you some cash to post them rather than get ripped off by a yard.

# ¿ Mar 21, 2010 01:36

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

Phatty Slayer posted:

For sure, whatever you need really, I'd rather get parts to people here than anywhere else.

Edit: Was going to PM, but board says you can't receive.

I need four of the screws that hold the black trim piece around the lights (there are four on each side, I'm missing two from each side), and one of the tiny tiny tiny screws that holds the bezel ring on the light. I can snap pics if you're not sure what I'm talking about, and I'd be happy to pay ... I dunno, $15? They should fit in an envelope, I don't need them here tomorrow. Let me know what you think is fair, and I'll paypal you

(mobn probably wants the rest of the bezel screws)

Krakkles fucked around with this message at 05:10 on Mar 21, 2010

# ¿ Mar 21, 2010 05:06

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

Phatty Slayer posted:

Okay for the sake of deconfliction you need the bezels, not the screws that hold on the deflectors right?

EDIT: P.S. I should be able to be PMed now.

Board still says no

my email is my username @gmail.com.

# ¿ Mar 21, 2010 07:45

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

Under ideal conditions, it should be possible to kick a car on jackstands and not have it fall off.

However, I wouldn't do it. Put it back on the ground with the nuts on loose and kick it. (By "loose", I mean finger tight, not half a thread down.)

# ¿ Apr 8, 2010 23:52

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

-Inu- posted:

I DD a motorcycle so I'm used to the wind noise (oh boy am I used to the wind noise) and comfort factor. My passengers aren't though.

You know, it's weird. I've always known about this - people usually recognize that my car is a :airquote:

sports car :airquote:

and treat it as such, but until recently, no one has ever actually expressed displeasure with it. It's usually at least novel.

Now I'm dating a girl that says it "scares" her. :sigh:

# ¿ May 12, 2010 02:04

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

I find it quite hilarious that I own probably the biggest piece of poo poo Miata ever and mine isn't broken

# ¿ Sep 6, 2010 03:36

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

Piano posted:

Went through a drive through for the first time in the miata (I almost never eat fast food). The bottom of the pick-up window started about 3 inches higher than my roofline.

stock ride height :rolleyes:

# ¿ Sep 6, 2010 05:41

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

Just got my '91 back from the shop - they replaced the water pump, timing belt, thermostat, accessory belts. Car seems to run fine, holds temperature well. Only thing is, it sounds like there's a straight-cut gear in there now - whining like a supercharger. Is that normal for an OEM waterpump?

# ¿ Sep 11, 2010 18:57

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

IOwnCalculus posted:

No, and based on the video someone posted earlier, it sounds like they set the tension way too tight on the timing belt.

Hmmm. How hard is that to correct? How serious of a problem if I leave it?

# ¿ Sep 11, 2010 19:39

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

I talked to them, they said no problem. I'll run it over next weekend.

# ¿ Sep 11, 2010 20:09

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

Trying to figure something out on my '91 Miata (5sp). If you're driving along and accelerate, the car turns to the left. If you let off the throttle, it turns to the right.

It's gotta be something loose in the rear suspension, right? My first thought was the strut tops because it's the only part I know has been worked on in the relatively recent past (it's been over a year, though), so I'm checking those now. What else could it be?

# ¿ Dec 27, 2010 22:30

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

FatCow posted:

Strut tops wouldn't do that since they are shocks, not struts. Check your alignment cam bolts and make sure they are all tight.

Ah, that's what I meant. Ok, I'll check those. drat, guess I have to jack the car up

Thanks!

Edit: You called it. One of the adjustments was loose. Looks like I have to take it in for an alignment again, take the wrenches with me, and yell at them for not tightening it.

Krakkles fucked around with this message at 00:22 on Dec 28, 2010

# ¿ Dec 27, 2010 23:01

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

Jesus, that's beautiful. I kinda want one.

I'm googling around and finding some info, but not nearly as much as I hoped ... is there a "kit" to put a 13B into a Miata? I'm starting to have stupid dreams again, and I can afford it, so I'm thinking about finding a good shell with a blown motor, a 13B, and a kit, but the kit is elusive.

I found a forum post mentioning a Mazsport kit, but their website is down, and it appears it's not a full kit - it still requires welding up mounts (they say "considerable fabrication") and such.

Should I just go back to my original plan of a Z with an LS1? I kind of don't want to because Zs are hard to find without rust, and I don't feel like doing bodywork.

# ¿ Feb 19, 2011 20:13

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

IOwnCalculus posted:

Mix the two ideas. LS1 in a Miata, pretty sure it's actually easier to do than a rotary.

Hmmmm. I like the idea. Crap, actually looking at the numbers is making me feel irresponsible, though. 6500 for the kit, probably 3 for an engine and tranny, 2-3 for a clean shell ... should I spend 13k building a really fun fast car, or just buy a new car? Hah!

# ¿ Feb 19, 2011 20:41

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

Phone posted:

2. Low compression can mean a few things and it doesn't necessarily rule out anything. These cars get pretty bad gas mileage for a 1.8L 4 cylinder because the gearing is so low.

I get lower than that with the 1.6L! :v:

# ¿ Apr 10, 2011 19:52

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

Xovaan posted:

With gas on the rise from $4.50/gallon and my project car (Volvo 240 Turbo) nearing completion, I'm looking for cheaper transportation options while still being able to have some fun driving around. My friends are all automotive enthusiasts and recommend Miatas because they get pretty good mileage and are awesome to drive.

1. Being 6'2", I don't fit into many cars. Will I fit into a Miata?
2. Can I realistically find a Miata for under $2000 in running condition? I don't care about exterior at all. I just don't want any catastrophic problems with the car.
3. How cheap are these to maintain compared to Volvo 240's?

I'm 6'2" and have daily driven a Miata for about 40,000 miles. I paid $1050 for it and have put a bit more than that into upkeep since then (4 years ago).

# ¿ Apr 25, 2011 02:24

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

First Time Caller posted:

Any recommendations on aftermarket steering wheels? I have a lot of trouble with heel and toe since my knees brush under my wheel and its almost impossibly difficult.

I'm thinking a slightly smaller than stock wheel with a 1/2" spacer will solve the issue. That and the FM pedal extension.

How are you performing your heel-toe? My knee does not move in any significant manner.

Krakkles fucked around with this message at 03:18 on Apr 28, 2011

# ¿ Apr 28, 2011 03:15

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

What is this part?

DSC_0003.jpg by Krakkles, on Flickr

Slightly below center of image, bolting into the back of the hub assembly at the end of the LCA.

Closer photo:

DSC_0004.jpg by Krakkles, on Flickr

Edit: If I'm reading my Haynes correctly, that's the balljoint. Followup question, assuming that's right: Good places to buy these online? Do they require any special tools to replace (they don't appear to). Edit 2: Found them on rockauto for $25/each.

Also: Steering rack when the balljoint broke looked like this:

IMAG0058 by Krakkles, on Flickr

But now it looks like this:

DSC_0001-2.jpg by Krakkles, on Flickr

It appears to have hooked itself back up. Aside from replacing the sleeve and visually inspecting, is there anything I should be on the lookout for?

Bonus pic for camber morons:

IMAG0056 by Krakkles, on Flickr

Krakkles fucked around with this message at 02:04 on Aug 1, 2011

# ¿ Jul 31, 2011 21:50

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

Beach Bum posted:

Impressive mechanical failure! Go post this over here in the Horrible Mechanical Failures.

How on earth did that happen?

Done.

It happened because I ignored a clunking sound. Luckily it happened in a parking lot. Won't be doing that again!

# ¿ Jul 31, 2011 23:48

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

Is there a good way to remove a balljoint without buying AutoZone's $100 balljoint press tool? Tried a hammer, that didn't work. Open to ideas here.

# ¿ Aug 6, 2011 00:28

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

Phone posted:

HF's 60 dollar ball joint tool

For reference, even if the dickweed at autozone says it's the right tool, their press is NOT the right tool. Looks like a small puller (a la pittman arm) should work.

# ¿ Aug 6, 2011 05:11

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# ¿ Apr 29, 2024 07:08

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

Ok, trying to reassemble my car, and I can't get the castlenut on the upper ball joint - the BJ just spins when I try to tighten. What am I missing?

# ¿ Aug 12, 2011 04:56

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