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Sudden Infant Def Syndrome posted:God green with tan looks awesome. You need a better helmet. Is that even strapped?
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Oct 11, 2007 16:40
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Return Of JimmyJars posted:I just go in through the top. Put your arm down by the firewall and reach under the intake manifold. Yeah, I've changed oil on both a 1.6 and 1.8, and I have ginormous arms.
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Oct 23, 2007 04:59
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mobn posted:You're completely lying about that mileage unless you drive the most stripped out Miata ever. At 80mph you'd be spinning nearly 4500rpms, possibly 5000. There's no way you were pulling off more than 25-30 MPG, and 30's optimistic. Road trips with only stops for fuel can highly exceed normal mileage, I used to push into the 50s in my Charade when it was only rated like 40 highway. Old 1.6s with proper tire pressure and in good mechanical condition can get suprising fuel economy, despite the fact they don't have the best fuel management (run rich). edit: The car on the verge of overheating might have helped too, higher engine temperatures lead to better power if the intake air is kept at the same temp, ignoring onset of detonation.
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Nov 1, 2007 21:49
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Breaking suspension components to protect the chassis only protects it so much. Sometimes you can get away with the available adjustment on the suspension to get around the mounts being out of place, but remember that rack time is prohibitively expensive.
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Nov 28, 2007 06:26
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PeterWeller posted:Ahh, so it's "Valvestate." hahahah. I've been on and off looking at Miatas, I might decide to get one instead of a 323GTX.
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Dec 8, 2007 02:15
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Please don't stir up off-site poo poo, its far more immature than you could ever claim it isn't.
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Feb 15, 2008 07:49
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leica posted:Why do you care? This is a Miata thread and the discussion is relevant to Miatas. No need to backseat mod. Because maybe I want to read a thread on SA about Miatas, not dumb poo poo about why you want to blow a guy when everyone wants to stone him. People posted facts about his cars having issues, you posted he's a nice guy so its all wrong. This has nothing to do with Miatas, and all to do with another forum.
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Feb 15, 2008 18:13
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meh savington edit in more stuff DJ Commie fucked around with this message at 04:06 on Feb 18, 2008 |
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Feb 18, 2008 03:59
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compton rear end terry posted:Wikipedia says 94-97 used the miata/protege's 1.8 Same engine. edit: The Koreans used outside engines a lot, I know Mitsubishi engines were used in earlier Hyundais*, and have heard usages of Nissan engines in others. *I had a Hyundai 4G63 valve cover on my DSM for laughs DJ Commie fucked around with this message at 05:43 on Mar 17, 2008 |
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Mar 17, 2008 05:41
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I bought a 323GTX, and since they run the same basic engine as the earlier NAs (B6), I want to know if I can pull a piston and rod from the bottom of the oilpan without removing the crankshaft. I need to re-ring the #3 cylinder, and I don't want to pull the head if I can get away with it.
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Mar 22, 2008 08:48
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iscariot posted:pistons come out the top. drat. I might as well redo the entire engine if I have to pull the head. Thanks Miata Guys!
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Mar 22, 2008 17:26
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I don't think its the same setup as the Volvo's which I recall is threaded onto the end of the fuel rail. The Volvo ones are semi-prone to failure, the Miata ones don't seem to be, but go ahead and check that, its easy. Remove the FPR line from the manifold, leave the FPR signal line open, and plus the intake manifold. I'm thinking the AFM. I've had plenty of fun with flappy AFMs over the years with various vehicles, and they do wear out. Take the AFM out, remove the airbox and get the pinout. Measure the outputs on the rheostat (pushing on the flapper), continuity on the idle/fuel pump switch, and the air temp sensor. They should all be onboard the AFM. It also could be a huge exhaust blockage, that would do all sorts of funny things to not being able to rev and fuel problems.
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Mar 23, 2008 16:37
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Another Miata-esque engine question: Does the variable valve timing BP engine have different pistons from the older normal BP? I'm considering making my BPT engine'd GTX have VVT, but can't change pistons easily.
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Apr 12, 2008 04:10
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Sorry to butt in again, but since the 323 GTX rear diff is the exact same unit that Mazda eventually put in the 1.6L NA cars, I wanted to know what a good limited slip diff if for those early ones. I'd want to buy used, and the whole pumpkin already set up. I have awd and drive hard primarily on gravel/dirt/sand, so lots of rear lockup isn't the biggest issue. Linearity is, however. A recommendation on a unit and a hint for what sites have classifieds. I'm located in SoCal, if everyone didn't know already. DJ Commie fucked around with this message at 16:51 on May 8, 2008 |
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May 8, 2008 16:48
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Make sure your battery cables and posts are clean and connected tightly. I don't know how the Miata negative terminal is grounded to the chassis, but give that a good look and check for pinched/frayed/corroded wiring. Optimas take a long time to charge via trickle, so its more likely you have current and voltage limiting corrosion or damage.
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Jun 20, 2008 01:32
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Phone posted:Also check to see if you're low on water in the battery; might be low on electrolytes. I thought Miatas had sealed batteries, and batteries run on sulfuric acid.
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Jun 20, 2008 17:18
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I'm in the market for a cheap turbo manifold to modify for the GTX, anyone know of a good one that I'd probably have to hack up anyway? It will be hooked up to a GT25, is a 1.6L B6T, and I'm looking for one that hugs the block as much as possible since I'm transverse and have a radiator in somewhat close proximity. I don't mind chopping off a t3 exhaust and closing off an external wastegate port, but I don't want to get stuck welding up holes in a SS AutoCrime manifold halfway through a rally. There is THIS lovely eBay manifold for $99 with what looks like a t3 flange, at that price I could build support plates and stuff to keep the weight of the turbo off the manifold completely. This one too looks okay, its already the right flange I do need something that holds the turbo square, I don't think I can have it too close to the hood given my turbo piping goes up rather than down. DJ Commie fucked around with this message at 19:10 on Jul 17, 2008 |
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Jul 17, 2008 18:57
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Mo Hawk posted:Hi guys, I just did the light minder conversion as described in http://www.miata.net/garage/buzzer.html Check your brake fluid level. The reed switch on your brake fluid reservoir could be acting up, that light is a general brake system warning light, indicating low fluid level or ebrake actuation.
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Jul 30, 2008 02:29
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Hypnolobster posted:That'd be the heater core. I've never done it on a miata and I'm sure it's a bitch. Not necessarily. If its the A/C only, its the evaporator drain hose, it should be connected to the evap core casing and go out through the firewall nearby. Its likely plugged, broken, or disconnected. Miata heater cores leak coolant, not just water if that is what problem Celot is having.
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Sep 9, 2008 20:25
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Negromancer posted:Well i figured I should post here seeing as I picked up a miata recently. The best thing about it so far is that the engines a hell of a lot easier to work on then my MK1 MR2 was. I managed to pick up a white '93 with ~180k for $2,000. It has a custom leather interior, which is red although its not too obnoxious and the seats are really comfy, a bunch of lovely schucks interior mods which were promptly removed and the soft top is in pretty good shape. Well shortly after I bought it, I realized why it was so cheap, the guy was a idiot and dumped a ton of the radiator stop leak into the engine to try to fix a leak. Well the leak was coming from a rusted out freeze plug, and thanks to me trying to clean the coolant system, it started spurting water everywhere. Luckily its the front one just under the header, so it was a pretty easy fix. I also had to replace the upper radiator hose, one of the heater core hoses, thermostat and radiator cap, but its running like a champ now. I am pretty happy with it, although it can really touch my old mr2 that it replaced after a Mercedes Sprinter van decided that he didn't have to stop at the red light I was stopped at and hit me doing about 35mph. Hopefully I'll get around to doing some more work to it soon. Its begging for new suspension, especially after my MR2 it feels pretty soft. That is good you are working to fix the cooling system, but you are probably going to need to change everything, heater core and water pump included. If I was buying a Miata, every one of those little hoses would be changed, they aren't particularly well molded and do a lot more work than a 1/4" hose should do.
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Sep 15, 2008 18:12
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I'm trying to get ahold of a NA Cam Angle Sensor and coilpack with wiring connectors, does anyone have any lying around or for a somewhat good price? I'm going MS on the GTX and the CAS bolts right in with no issues.
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Oct 7, 2008 05:13
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Ziploc posted:If you race your car you can sign up for parts at cost here: http://www.mazdaspeedmotorsports.com I don't think Mazda would even consider supporting the 323 GTX again, it was taken off the MazdaSpeed Competition site a few years ago. I wouldn't even be using parts intended for that model, so I expect that won't work. That and the parts wouldn't match up to their race-results contingency requirements, and the 30 day waiver wouldn't work. I'll keep that link though, if the car and I do well later on, I'll see if they could get me some old stuff. DJ Commie fucked around with this message at 18:09 on Oct 7, 2008 |
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Oct 7, 2008 18:04
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laymil posted:Eh, I just checked prices for you on Mazda Competition. A new CAS (NF01-18-230A) looks to be $291.81, down from a list of $395.85. 'Coil & Igniter' (B61P-18-10X) is listed for $149.51, down from $249.23. Planetmiata lists camshaft sensor and coil pack for $125 each (used obviously). I think the newest parts they carry is for the 1990+ BG Protege/323 models, nothing engine or suspension-wise is compatible. I think I'll just keep my eyes open for another junkyard Miata I find, $300 is absurd for something I can get for $15. Maybe I can fit a DSM CAS on it, I have a few of those lying around.
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Oct 8, 2008 17:32
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I need some Miata parts. I need a 1.6L Miata TPS, CAS, coilpack, idle motor and ignitor. I NEED the pigtails for them, no option. I need it for the GTX Megasquirt project. I have paypal. I might ask here before I got onto MiataTurbo.Net and Miata.Net asking jerks for crap when I like you jerks more. If you are in socal I will take you on 'tuning' runs on some local dirt roads if you want.
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Jan 8, 2009 07:26
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destructo posted:The hood is fine, it's just got some risers on it, two minute fix. The super JDM homo factor has been laid upon the car, its more indicative of the car's bad treatment than a simple non-fix would be. I just got a 1.6L CAS and coilpacks with ignitor for the GTX, and am getting some COPs from Savington so I'm selling the coils and ignitor. Anyone interested?
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Jan 13, 2009 18:11
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In my GTX parts hoarding, I've amassed a collection of NA 1.6L engine parts in which I don't need anymore. I have a coilpack with bracket and connector, ignitor with bracket and connector, purge solenoid with bracket and connector, a throttle body with the idle motor, TPS, coolant lines, and the air bypass hose, and a perfect condition injector/coolant temp sensor harness. All of these are in great shape, being from low miles California cars. All the wiring is supple and still well taped, no rust or corrosion on anything. I'm probably put5ting it up on Miata Turbo eventually, but I thought I'd let you guys take grab at it first. Name a price!
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Mar 9, 2009 07:55
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How hard is dropping the tank on an NA? Krakkles' 91 needs to have the tank replaced, and I picked up a spare but its a Wisconsin rustbucke, so what do I have to remove to get it out? PPF, diff, and all the rear subframe?
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Apr 2, 2009 07:16
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Its starting to warm up in a lot of places, Miatas are starting to be driven, so there are less for sale. Maybe try looking further away, finding a really well kept Miata should provide you with a great reliable ride back home. California has a huge amount of Miatas for sale, plus they are cheap and there is no corrosion or rust here. Unfortunately that means people drive around on bent up bodypanels
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Apr 11, 2009 16:35
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Phone posted:The car looks sketchy as gently caress. Turbo Miatas are a ridiculously good value for the money, but you are taking on a huge risk. Pretty much. The hoses are clamped badly, the vent line is now made of fuel line, the intercooler is dinged to hell, and the dumb bastard insulated his comrpessor outlet line. Its not tape, its a insulating wrap like for a/c lines. Presentation isn't everything but I wouldn't buy it for anything over cheap N/A NA prices since he doesn't care enough to make it look really nice. Engine is clean, though but really 5bucks a pressure washer fixes that. DJ Commie fucked around with this message at 17:04 on Apr 14, 2009 |
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Apr 14, 2009 17:02
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Ziploc posted:How is it non-adjustable? Probably non-adjustable shocks, coilovers only let you set ride height and preload, unless you swap springs out.
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May 8, 2009 05:20
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BEGI swears up and down about their Chincharger kit being reliable, and nobody has posted anything to the contrary about that specific turbo model from their supplier.
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May 12, 2009 02:46
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beatdown posted:When was the last time you changed the spark plugs and wires? I'd agree with the wires too, that sounds perfect.
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Jul 25, 2009 21:39
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Wow, thats incredibly clean.
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Aug 2, 2009 20:46
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iscariot posted:
You don't have any warning system for the water injection? No boost cut or anything?
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Aug 9, 2009 06:56
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My GTX had cylinder honing marks and no ridge and 189K miles at 200% stock boost, so I'm not too surprised. Durability of the B6 and BP engines, I guess. Good combo of block and ring materials.
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Aug 9, 2009 07:24
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I wouldn't have the slighest issue buying a pre-supercharged Miata, but its high price/hp compared to the BEGI Chinacharger or even some amalgamation of the Greddy kit and eBay parts makes it less attractive. The steady torque might be attractive to certain buyers. Some people want set-it and forget-it stuff, and even with a GT2554R, theres a small amount of lag.
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Dec 9, 2009 05:05
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destructo posted:I hardly think full boost before 3.5k is lag. Don't know what planet you are from, but thats called lag. My DSM made 10psi before 3000, and my GTX makes its 9 or so at under 2300. Both stock. Its boost threshold in reality, but nobody seems to know the difference. destructo posted:Tuning is the same as anything else? There's no difference. Superchargers require maintenance too, so I don't see any reason maintenance-wise to pick one over the other, with the exception of chronic stud issues with people who track turbo Miatas. I don't know about the Rotrex, but the Eaton everyone uses is nigh-on-sealed and only has 100K miles oil change intervals. Maybe a snout bearing here or there, but mechanically no less durable and reliable than a turbocharger kit. Hang a haevy turbo off a N/A exhaust side with shallow studs (the GTX studs are like 1/2" longer) and that is what happens. A brace would seem to help, thats what was done with the GTX, a little metal brace that hooks to the block. DJ Commie fucked around with this message at 20:31 on Dec 9, 2009 |
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Dec 9, 2009 20:26
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90-91 had an issue with the crankshaft breaking its nose off when improperly removed to change the timing belt. Its almost a non-issue with proper work, and most trashed ones have died by now.
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Jan 24, 2010 04:37
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bladernr posted:Fixed that for ya. And I agree that it's mostly a non-issue any more... and most of the people who own 90 - early 91's thought so too. Yes earlier 91s, but its a non issue if done properly. I've never actually seen a bad snout b6, even with the pre-Miata GTX engines that the Miata shortnose came from in the first place. It takes some pretty shoddy repair work and just bad practices to cause the problem. Its a combo of over/understorquing, corrosion, and just general poo poo workmanship.
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Jan 28, 2010 01:55
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You'd have to have an odd tensioner failure to load properly to do anything other than an integer of teeth off on crank/cam pulleys. You can't really drop a lifter, since its directly actuated valves with a 'lifter' (its really a lash adjuster) inbetween the cam lobe and valve top.
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May 10, 2010 01:08
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