|
Ziploc posted:Decent shocks could be had for under 500$. Maybe a good more aggressive alignment will sharpen things up too. Shocks would be a waste of money on an '03 when you could spend the money on good tires and alignment. And I stand by my statement of intakes being a waste of money. The only worthwhile intake mod is the Randall cowl intake duct, but like Savington stated you can make one yourself for next to nothing.
|
#
¿
Nov 22, 2007 15:06
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 16, 2024 05:49 |
|
|
streetlamp posted:Haha, Im well aware to part it out is worth well over $350 but I really dont have any interest in that. I just want a miata to drive Then forget it. If it had minor damage he'd fix and sell it for the going price of a straight Miata. I guarantee the frame is hosed or else he wouldn't be selling it so cheap.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 28, 2007 04:19
|
|
|
Go ahead and look at it, you never know. Maybe the guy is just really dumb and thinks it's totalled when all it needs is some parts and a little TLC. I would check it out for something to do and out of curiosity.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 28, 2007 05:57
|
|
|
Schwack posted:EDIT: Well, this morning a new 97 M came up with under 60k miles, only problem is: it has a luggage rack on the trunk. Is this something I could economically get rid of? Yeah, just remove the rack, fill up the screw holes nicely, remove the trunk lid and take it to a body shop and have it sprayed. Shouldn't be more than $150 if you do everything but spray it, otherwise a shop will charge more for labor filling the holes and whatnot. I wouldn't let a luggage rack be a deal breaker either way though.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 4, 2007 16:38
|
|
|
Schwack posted:Ok, so a 97 M with 57k on it, worth 6400? If it's in excellent condition, yes.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 4, 2007 16:54
|
|
|
Spend the money and get an OEM hardtop with a defroster. You'll need the defroster during the winter.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 5, 2007 01:46
|
|
|
Guinness posted:I've been casually looking for a hard top for my 95M in matching Merlot Mica. I've only ever seen a few for sale, and they were on the other side of the country, and the sellers were asking nearly $1500. It's no mystery why I don't have a hardtop for my Miata yet. Good luck with that, you have a better chance of seeing God. When I was selling my 95 M, I got more more people trying to buy the hardtop than wanting to buy the car. I might have sold it separately if the car didn't sell, but the car went pretty quick. My advice to you is if you really want a hardtop just get the cheapest OEM top you can get, like a scratched/dinged up one and just have it painted. Most good body shops can match the paint no problem.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 5, 2007 17:05
|
|
|
Hagetaka posted:I swear my stock CD player needs warming up lately. When I first hop in the car, it skips and has a scratchy background, but after a few minutes of driving it clears up. It's not all that cold here lately in Georgia (40s at night, 60s by day), but I'm starting to wonder. Is this a known problem? Is it the in dash changer? It could be on it's way out. You'll know when you can't take any CD's out of it  the Mazda factory stereos are really crap, when I worked at Mazda, we were constantly exchanging/refurbishing stock stereos, and the changers were the worst. I could never believe why people would want another stock stereo after having it replaced more than once out of their own pocket. Buy a drat Pioneer deck at half the price and it will sound ten times better to boot. But some people are funny when it comes to OEM equipment.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 7, 2007 16:03
|
|
|
Hagetaka posted:Oh it'll be replaced eventually; I'm just waiting for a decent head unit with a USB input that isn't a DVD player and isn't so big that the installation monkeys at Best Buy will have to cut the wood trim around it This one ain't bad for $400. You can store up to 13 CD's worth of mp3's in it and it has an SD card slot. 
|
|
#
¿
Dec 7, 2007 17:14
|
|
|
Dies posted:Am I alone in thinking this is cool as poo poo? Yes.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 8, 2007 03:10
|
|
|
Hagetaka posted:The only acceptable body kit is the giant fender flared one
|
|
#
¿
Dec 8, 2007 04:33
|
|
|
Schwack posted:Ok I need help. Would I be less of a man if I bought a purple (95M) miata? The last one I was looking at got sold out from underneath me (again) and this one is in town with only 47k on it. 95M's are 'Merlot' which is actually a metallic maroon color. Unless someone repainted it, which would be considered blasphemy in the miata world. I would avoid it if it was painted a different color. Do you have pics of it?
|
|
#
¿
Dec 8, 2007 21:09
|
|
|
Schwack posted:http://eugene.craigslist.org/car/500954257.html GO BUY IT IMMEDIATELY BEFORE IT'S GONE It's worth a good amount more than what he's asking. I sold my 95M with more miles for 10k. It had a hard top, but that was about $1200 of it, so figure around 9k without a hardtop. Run, don't walk to the bank, get some money and buy it. The wheels alone are worth almost 2k. The 95M is the most sought after Miata made besides the 93LE.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 8, 2007 21:21
|
|
|
Schwack posted:Would $6000 be a fair offer? Yes. The issues it has are minor. If the guy takes the offer, consider yourself a lucky bastard.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 8, 2007 23:53
|
|
|
Schwack posted:OK, so now where to go for a new zipper piece of the top? I want to get a glass rear window with the tan top and will spend more for better quality. Whats my best bet? (95M) So did you get the 95M? Don't bother with glass unless you're doing a NB top swap (NB tops are glass only anyway). When you lower/raise the top on an NA, you have to unzip/zip the rear window first and a glass window makes it a pain in the rear end because the glass is heavy and awkward when trying to zip it up (compared to plastic). The NB top does not require messing with the window, and goes down and up in one motion. It may not seem like a big deal, but after dealing with the top enough, the NB top makes it seem ten times better. Not to mention, lots of people have issues with glass windows because the weight of the glass tends to rip out the stitches of the zipper over time. My mother in law had this issue and just got a new top with a plastic window, and now she doesn't have a hard time with it anymore. IMO, if you are just getting the window replaced I would go with plastic. If you want to replace the top, do an NB swap, you can do it yourself (it's super easy) and there's nothing better than OEM top quality, even slightly used.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 10, 2007 13:52
|
|
|
Schwack posted:So to go with the NB top I need to replace the whole shebang? How much does that usually cost? Yes, a used NB Miata top is the whole shebang, top on frame, and you can do it yourself in about an hour. Any new top is just the top alone and takes a good amount of labor to install it onto the frame. Not a recommended DIY and is not cheap to have done. A used OEM NB top is better than most new aftermarket tops, and you can do it yourself, so you save a good amount of money and you get the luxury of not having to gently caress with the rear window ever again. 
|
|
#
¿
Dec 11, 2007 00:53
|
|
|
http://planetmiata.com/ Or just check in with your local import used parts store. When I did it, I went to a local place and put a deposit down and they searched one out for me. Just make sure you inspect it good before you take it away and you're golden. Congrats on the 95M Schwack, you lucked out big time. And get to posting pics!
|
|
#
¿
Dec 11, 2007 03:33
|
|
|
Guinness posted:Robbins makes a zipperless glass top for the NA. Sounds like a good option. BUT....I have installed Robbins tops and I think the quality is good, but it still doesn't compare to OEM. I have yet to see a top that will last nearly as long as OEM, including Robbins. Although if you are comparing NEW prices, Robbins is a good value considering how much a new OEM top is. However, if you can find a good NB top used it's the best way to go IMO because of money saved and quality you're getting. And IT IS as smooth as people make it out to be HOWEVER.....If you're getting the top off a wrecked car there is the possibility the frame can bend and that obviously can present some problems with fitment. Just make sure the place you buy it from has a return policy, and inspect it thoroughly before accepting it. Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 13:37 on Dec 11, 2007 |
|
#
¿
Dec 11, 2007 13:35
|
|
|
moloo posted:I'm going for a compression test tomorrow. I'm thinking I'm looking at new rings? Really hope not... Sounds like the rings in #4 are shot. If the compression test confirms it, you're probably better off just sourcing out another motor. It would cost as much, if not cheaper, and get done a hell of a lot faster. Hell a motor swap in a Miata can be done in less than a day with the right tools and a few buddies to help out. Even if you had a mechanic do it, the labor to swap and the cost of a good used motor would be cheaper than labor/parts to tear down and rebuild the original. [edit] Or you could go with a used short block, but that's a lot more labor intensive so it might even out anyway after labor (unless you do it yourself). Long blocks go for around $700 and short blocks $300. But really, the Miata's motor is pretty drat easy to do. Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 04:42 on Dec 16, 2007 |
|
#
¿
Dec 16, 2007 04:32
|
|
|
Schwack posted:Has nothing to do with being on the frame. That was easy as hell. The problem came when mounting it back to the car. Half of the holes along the back were just flat out in the wrong spots. gently caress Robbins. I think you missed his point, which was OEM tops are the best way to go frame or no frame. moloo posted:Does anyone know a good place for miata engines? Ebay is ridiculous and I've already checked miata.net and turbo miata for sale postings. http://www.planetmiata.com/ Or just go to a local import used parts place. Or try a pick-n-pull you might get lucky.
Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 03:30 on Dec 19, 2007 |
|
#
¿
Dec 19, 2007 03:26
|
|
|
brosef deluxe posted:Well, poo poo. I woke up this morning and started my car to get to the store to a symphony of crappy noises. My A/C compressor sounds like it ate sand for breakfast. Merry loving Christmas to me. Luckily I am without P/S, so I cut the belt and disabled it for now. I'd just rip it out if I lived up north, especially if it's a toy and not a daily driver. But it depends I guess....If the summers get brutal, it's nice having A/C. My next Miata will be totally stripped of all that poo poo, but it won't be a DD.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 25, 2007 01:01
|
|
|
Just take a ride in a Miata with new shocks (if you know of one) and you'll know. The original shocks wear out slowly so it's hard to tell unless they're completely blown out. But if you're fine with the way it's handling now, I wouldn't put any money into shocks.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 27, 2007 17:07
|
|
|
Hagetaka posted:I've got the immobilizer blues Call your local Mazda dealer, they should be able to quote you a price for the part(s) and labor. You more than likely will have to have the keys re-programed and that's 75 bucks alone IIRC.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 11, 2008 16:49
|
|
|
Hagetaka posted:Priced the whole thing with parts, labor, and re-programming keys- 325 bucks. That sucks. You might want to check Miata.net to see if there's a way to just disable it or something, unless you like having it.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 12, 2008 05:34
|
|
|
Yeah, the '93LE is the most sought after Miata next to a '95M, I'd jump on it if the price is right.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 29, 2008 06:03
|
|
|
Gear Head posted:What's the difference if any between a Robbins top and one like this one off ebay or this one off a website? You get what you pay for when it comes to tops. If you get an ebay special, don't be surprised if you need another one in a few years. OEM is the best you can get, and even a used OEM top will last longer and fit better than a majority of the aftermarket tops out there.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 5, 2008 04:40
|
|
|
Ize posted:Cross posting from another thread because I wanna see of I can get an explanation. Your best bet would be to search the Miata.net forums (N/A sub forum) and search Fujiracing ITB's and you'll get all sorts of info, including the drag runs of the Fujiracing Miata. Or just post a thread and I'm sure there will be people that can explain it in full detail.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 14, 2008 00:50
|
|
|
Savington posted:gently caress FujiRacing. I've never seen a legitimate dyno chart for that car, and all he does is post lovely 12-second videos of his car beating stock Miatas while his moronic fanbois scream about how IRTBS ROCKKKK and THE R STANDS FOR RACING and JIMMYS CAR IS SO NICE AND IT WILL WALK ALL OVER ANYTHING EVER IN THE HISTORY OF THE WORLD AND TURBO CARS HAVE ROAD SOFT SUSPENSION Wow, sounds like it's personal or something. Are you one of the people that were trying to bury him in the miata.net forums? Have you even driven an ITB Miata? I don't get where all this hatred comes from, Jimmy is a really cool guy and is not trying to rip people off. He has a decent ITB kit at a (relatively) affordable price and like anyone trying to run a business, he's trying to get the word out about his product. I've seen the dyno chart posted on Miata.net, and don't know why it wouldn't be legitimate. I also drove his car and it was a loving beast, and in no way was it "undrivable" or unsafe at any RPM. He lets anyone that wants to drive his car drive it because he wants them to experience an ITB Miata, he doesn't even care if you don't buy his kit.....I didn't.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 14, 2008 02:17
|
|
|
willd58 posted:I don't think these things have reached the mainstream UK market yet, what do they consist of and what do they do to the car?  They improve throttle response and revving, making the car a blast to drive. But it's a subjective thing, people that have never driven an ITB car, and forced induction fanbois tend to poo poo them because they don't put up huge HP numbers. But it's not about HP, it's about responsiveness. I was a skeptic until I drove a ITB Miata .
|
|
#
¿
Feb 14, 2008 16:40
|
|
|
willd58 posted:I'm assuming it means how quickly it picks up from when you press on the throttle that bit extra, however, wouldn't more power mean this as well? You're correct, the throttle response is instantaneous. And yes, you do get an extra 10 to 20 HP depending on the tune, which is not much compared to a forced induction setup and why some people think it's pointless. But those people have never driven an ITB car.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 15, 2008 01:01
|
|
|
Savington posted:Whatever man, I don't know about any of that poo poo. All I know is he invited me to his home to hang out and drive his car. He's a down to earth guy and is not out to scam anyone. He went to "Miatas at the Gap" and let anyone that wanted to drive his car drive it, including people that were badmouthing him and calling his ITB's "snake oil" on the miata.net forums. And as far as his car running, like I said, it ran perfect for me and I thoroughly enjoyed every minute of it. quote:Yeah. You guys can brag about throttle respose and the feel of the car all day long, and I'll just nod my head, smile, and ride a WAVE of mid-range torque that a built NA motor will never achieve.  Some people like different things, imagine that.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 15, 2008 05:20
|
|
|
Baby Hitler posted:Please don't stir up off-site poo poo, its far more immature than you could ever claim it isn't. Why do you care? This is a Miata thread and the discussion is relevant to Miatas. No need to backseat mod. 
|
|
#
¿
Feb 15, 2008 16:14
|
|
|
Baby Hitler posted:Because maybe I want to read a thread on SA about Miatas, not dumb poo poo about why you want to blow a guy when everyone wants to stone him. People posted facts about his cars having issues, you posted he's a nice guy so its all wrong. This has nothing to do with Miatas, and all to do with another forum. The discussion was about Fujiracing ITB's, it has a lot to do with Miatas, and maybe if you have a problem with the discussion you should stay out of it? I don't necessarily enjoy your posts, but I don't bitch and complain about not wanting to read them. Also nice gay innuendo, that's an SA original. Phone posted:He was point out how much man-love leica has for that dude with ITBs on his Miata. Why don't you go blow your Miata. 
|
|
#
¿
Feb 16, 2008 02:03
|
|
|
mobn posted:Where can I get the OEM spoiler? I do a lot of highway driving and getting rid of some of the highspeed floatiness would be nice. You can order it from a Mazda dealer, it's about $200.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 18, 2008 02:19
|
|
|
Ize posted:I've seen the oem lip spoilers online for $150 but I'll be hosed if I can find the site now. That's a good deal, but after shipping it's almost retail anyway. Sometimes Mazda dealer parts will cut you a break if you ask them, especially if they have it in stock taking up space.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 18, 2008 02:39
|
|
|
|
|
#
¿
Feb 18, 2008 02:42
|
|
|
Ize posted:What the gently caress is going on this post was on the other page a minute ago, how did it move? Now it looks like leica went into the future and quoted me Yeah I was wondering WTF. I quoted you 14 minutes after you posted. 
|
|
#
¿
Feb 18, 2008 05:10
|
|
|
Phone posted:Triple-posting, timewarping, Miata driving fag spotted. Don't you have chores to do? Go clean your room, son.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 18, 2008 17:42
|
|
|
Savington posted:FM sways will make the car better. Are FM sways better than others? I had put sways (I think Racing Beat) on my '91 and it made the front end push really bad. I took them off the next day.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 5, 2008 04:07
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 16, 2024 05:49 |
|
|
Ziploc posted:Did you do front only? No, I did both front and rear. A friend of mine runs a Miata shop and he had some laying around so I installed them to see how I'd like it, and almost killed myself on my favorite on-ramp. Luckily, my buddy warned me about understeer, so I was kind of prepared but I didn't expect it to be that bad. Savington posted:The size of your bars and your spring rates really rely on each other. Fat Cat Motorsports has a great spreadsheet that lets you play with all of those variables; I used it to set my car up and I am extremely happy with the end result (700# front springs, 450# rear springs, 1.125" tubular front bar, 14mm rear bar). That makes a lot of sense, I'll have to remember that if I ever get another Miata. The bars I used probably didn't agree with the stock springs then. And it's probably why I hear people bitch about sways. The ones I had put on my car were from a customer that came in and said "just take 'em off, you can have them, they suck." and we swapped them out for some stock bars. Some people even like removing the rear bar all together.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 5, 2008 15:15
|
|