MIATA THREAD - My Third Gear Syncro Is On Grindr

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > MIATA THREAD - My Third Gear Syncro Is On Grindr

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destructo: Apr 29, 2006

Ain't she purty (a bit of an upgrade from the ol' Trooper)
1990, 69k miles, all options.

destructo fucked around with this message at 19:56 on Oct 16, 2007

# ¿ Oct 11, 2007 06:56

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# ¿ Apr 29, 2024 04:04

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

Savington posted:

R-package or the A/B/C. Base and Autos don't have it.

My car's been online in photos more than some porn stars.

poo poo Savington, are those the 15x8 6UL's from Emilio? How have they been working for you?

# ¿ Oct 11, 2007 15:09

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

Q: What is the gayest thing you can do?

A:

Amir posted:

I think you need to find it a better home. In my driveway.

# ¿ Oct 12, 2007 02:15

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

amadeo posted:

Is getting a "Turbo" exhaust without a turbo going to cause less efficiency, or is the Turbo exhaust just built to handle more?

(For those of you who read it, I went and test-drove a Porsche 944. And I think I'll pass.)

The turbo exhaust without a turbo attached is going to be loud as gently caress due to the fact that it is designed knowing that a turbo is attached to it and muffling the exhaust.

# ¿ Oct 12, 2007 03:01

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

Just to let you guys know, Emilio from 949 Racing is taking orders for 6UL wheels in 15x8 and 15x7 again.

15x7 +27 offset Spec Miata 13.1 lb special application. 54.1 Mazda hubcentric
$139 Silver/Machined lip

15x7 +27 offset lightweight version 11.4 lbs 5.2kg
$139 Silver/Machined lip or Black/Machined lip
$154 Nickel painted

15x8 +36 offset 12.8 lbs 5.8kg
$149 Silver/Machined lip or Black/Machined lip
$164 Nickel painted

They're a hell of a deal.

# ¿ Oct 18, 2007 00:16

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

Gear Head posted:

What is AI's opinion on mismatched hardtops? Black top on white car, red on white, etc. And why isn't an OEM making cheap hardtops

You tell me:

# ¿ Oct 18, 2007 17:18

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

Schwack posted:

How about this one? It seems crazy overpriced, but otherwise in amazing shape.
http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_id=232439360

That's overpriced? I bought my '90 with a hardtop and 69k miles for $4700 and that was a steal in Wisconsin. The lady got twenty phone calls after mine.

# ¿ Oct 20, 2007 05:32

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

Schwack posted:

No, I'm in Oregon so anything from California means a hellish drive.

I got another response from the seller of the M with the dent and scratched paint. He says hes willing to knock it down to $5300. Im thinking for the dent I could just primer the spot to prevent rust and find a used R pack spoiler to put over the top of it. Anybody think that would work?

Yeah, that's not a bad idea.. I'm looking into getting a front lip to cover up bumper scrapes from the previous owner.

# ¿ Oct 21, 2007 23:14

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

grover posted:

Also, dumb question- are NA, NB and NC actually different cars, or just different option packages? Does that apply to all model years? I haven't noticed any references to them outside of chat forums.

NA - 1989-1997
NB - 1999-2005
NC - 2006-*

The NA and NB are essentially the same chassis, but the NC is significantly different.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mazda_Miata

# ¿ Oct 27, 2007 21:38

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

Keep in mind that the 1994 model year is desirable because it comes with the 1.8, yet is OBDI.

# ¿ Oct 30, 2007 19:41

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

n8r posted:

In regard to the Edmunds TCO numbers, they always seem a bit high. The only good I see them being is for an apples to apples comparison. If X car is twice as expensive per mile then Y car it's probably correct. The actual numbers break down is suspect at best I'd imagine.

EDIT:
Does anyone have a good working NA radio they want to sell me? Preferably something that bolts right up to a '92.

I was totally going to sell mine until I realized that it's fairly trivial to add an aux-in to it, have you tried the WTB in the miata.net classifieds?

# ¿ Nov 1, 2007 06:06

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

mobn posted:

It's time to start checking my engine thoroughly, then, because on 43 south (a very very straight shot between Waukesha and Beloit), I'm barely managing 22-25mpg, and I put it in cruise control at 80mph.

Of course, as helldump was eager to point out, it's possible my "immense" weight is damaging mileage.

I feel that cruise control doesn't moderate the throttle terribly well, I'd give it a shot without and see if it makes a difference. Waukesha huh, Carrol College?

# ¿ Nov 2, 2007 00:43

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

mobn posted:

Yup. I used to do the run without cruise control, but honestly, I haven't noticed a difference in mileage with or without, and I'm lazy so I do the trip on cruise unless there's construction going on.

Hate to derail, but do you know Chris Myatt? He's on the soccer team.

# ¿ Nov 2, 2007 21:54

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

Schwack posted:

Anybody think I'd be totally crazy to pay $6000 for a bone stock, except for a new, glass windowed top, 97 with the popular equipment package and about 90k on it? It LOOKs to be in about perfect condition, but the timing belt hasnt been done and the guy is adamant that since the CA manual says 105k it absolutely doesnt need to be done until then.

gently caress that, the miles are too high, and the timing belt really needs to be done every 60k or so, the California thing is a state law, there has to be a good reason why Mazda recommends it every 60k.

That said, if it goes, you're just stranded for a bit -- non-interference engine ahoy!

Try and knock him down at least $500 for the timing belt job.

# ¿ Nov 3, 2007 08:42

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

duep posted:

I was looking at a miata the other day that had somewhat noticable valve play.
Is it common in the NA models to hear the valves do their business or should I stay away from that car ?

Yeah, I get valve tick when car is all warmed up and idling, search miata.net, it's essentially par for the course on the 1.6.

# ¿ Nov 7, 2007 20:06

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

poo poo guys, Bell just put out a kit to rival the cheap Greddy one link.

Looks like ~5/6psi with quality parts for ~$1700, which is a drat good deal, not to mention it's easily upgradeable. I know what I'm doing come ~July this summer :coal:

# ¿ Nov 8, 2007 00:15

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

Savington posted:

Rival the GReddy? Nono. The Bell kit means the demise of the GReddy. Expect the floor to drop out from under the used GReddy market within a month or so. The best manifold, a brand-new $900 ball-bearing turbo, a good downpipe, oil-water lines, and Bell quality everywhere. I'll never recommend another GReddy kit again.

I know this is probably somewhere, so I don't quite expect a very detailed response, but you've built your own, solid setup so I trust what you have to say. Ballpark, from the BEGI-S kit at 5-6psi, what would I need to move up to 8-9? Intercooler, 1.8 injectors and some other piggyback/MSPNP?

Also, I see you've been yelling at the fuckwads on miataturbo.net, gently caress slidinmiata and his "niggaaah" after every post :argh:

thanks.

# ¿ Nov 9, 2007 04:43

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

mobn posted:

So you're going to be coming to Wisconsin to help me out once I get the money together to go turbo, right?

We can do it together :glomp:

Savington posted:

HOLY poo poo KNOWLEDGE

Thanks man, I'm saving this post for later this summer, I appreciate it.

# ¿ Nov 9, 2007 07:16

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

Ize posted:

Actually that doesn't sound so bad. It's funny 'cause that big pile of parts is going to wind up hanging around my house as I buy them one at a time waiting to install them all in one go.

You really ought to install them bit by bit -- in the event that you gently caress something up, it'll be a lot easier to diagnose what you did.

# ¿ Nov 9, 2007 09:00

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

Ize posted:

How hard are R-package lips to come by? I think they really, really help the looks of the car.

Front lip is still being created, the rear lip is out of production and you'll probably be looking at ~200 for one, if you can find one.

Front lip: http://www.mazdaparts.org/mamifrairdam.html
Free shipping!

# ¿ Nov 12, 2007 09:00

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

WHY HASN'T EMILIO BUILT THIS YET :argh:

edit: Hmm, looks like we have a chopped MR2 top here

destructo fucked around with this message at 02:25 on Nov 13, 2007

# ¿ Nov 13, 2007 02:15

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

sabz posted:

Daaamn, that's hot. Makes the boot useless, but who cares when it looks like that?? Where's that from?

Not to mention the gas cap would be a stretch, but I think Emilio is trying to figure out ways around all that stuff. Something along the lines of removing the trunk and having a 2-part hardtop seal it up hatch-style?

Edit: Didn't Mazda already do this in the Japanese market for a very small run of cars? Are those pictures above just that?

# ¿ Nov 13, 2007 18:07

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

Thinking of getting the mudflaps for my NA, painted, unpainted, or none at all?

# ¿ Nov 17, 2007 19:56

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

goku chewbacca posted:

Hey crew! I'm going to look at a 1996 M-Edition tomorrow, Starlight Mica Blue, 1 of ~3000.

108,000 miles, original owner, "garaged since new, the paint looks like new-w/no dents or scratches..Top looks new, with real glass" All the pictures look great. Flawless tan leather interior.

He's listed for $4995. Blue book is $4800, which I know runs low for Miatas.

What do you guys think is a fair offer? I definitely don't want to lose the sale, but offering less than list price is par for the course. Would offering $4500 CASH be insulting?

I don't think it would be insulting, but $5 says that someone stops by and grabs it for the asking price. He'll get it, that's for sure. I wouldn't be surprised if it sold at 5500 depending on the market. You might be able to take some bucks off if he hasn't done the timing belt yet, but I kind of doubt that, even in CA it should be done at 100k.

# ¿ Nov 20, 2007 05:19

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

willd58 posted:

When should the cambelt be done, and how much is it likely to set me back?

Mazda recommends every 60k, probably $4-500 at a good shop, you can get the parts needed for about ~$100. While you're at it, you should probably replace the water pump too.

# ¿ Nov 21, 2007 19:52

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

Etrips posted:

Going to go with Amir here and say to stay away. Hes trying to push a sale for a reason.

poo poo dude, it's only $350, I'd buy it in a heartbeat and part everything out of it.

# ¿ Nov 28, 2007 03:42

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

Guys, I've been reading clubroadster.net too much and I'm starting to like the low offset look :v:

. Sigh, my plans of just getting some 6ULs and RS2s for ~1g seem like such a pain in the rear end compared to just picking up some Sportmax 002s with the same tires for only $700. On the other hand, with the Sportmax wheels, I'll need at the least, some fender rolling and probably fender flares in the long term once the suspension gets replaced. Goddammit.

Tell me I'm an idiot.

destructo fucked around with this message at 21:39 on Nov 28, 2007

# ¿ Nov 28, 2007 21:32

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

Savington posted:

Emotional approach: Nothing looks more bitchin' than a Miata on 6ULs.

Dammit Savington, that sells me, although I wish I had a black car, then the decision would be so much easier on which 6UL's to get for my Classic Red. But yeah, the whole paying money to gently caress up your suspension to the point where you perform just on par with a stock NA doesn't appeal to me much. If only they sold Sportmax-esque with weights/price close to the 6UL.

Emilio :argh:

# ¿ Nov 29, 2007 06:38

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

Just posting to say.. I just scored a new set of 6UL's for $525 in Wisconsin! Effectively I'm saving ~150 since I don't have to pay for shipping :swoon:

# ¿ Dec 3, 2007 03:48

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

Schwack posted:

Ok, so a 97 M with 57k on it, worth 6400?

It has also had the tbelt done recently.

Definitely. Also, I believe Autokonexion is working on a replacement hood with one of its nicer lip spoilers integrated into it, that'd be something to look into if you're too lazy to fill in some holes, should be pretty inexpensive as well.

# ¿ Dec 4, 2007 18:07

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

Gear Head posted:

Hardtop question, I can pick up an after market hardtop for $700. I really want a hardtop for the winter.

Problems: Few scratches, part that slides over the Frankenstein bolts needs to be replaced.

Is it worth it?

I believe you could grab these for cheap
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/mazd...1QQcmdZViewItem

Hard top scratches are pretty easy to repair (especially since you can just take the top off and bring it in the house to work in leisure). Paintscratch.com is great for that stuff.

# ¿ Dec 4, 2007 20:28

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

Here is one good reason to get a hardtop (5th St. offramp, Minneapolis)

# ¿ Dec 5, 2007 19:57

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

Walked posted:

Will 14" steelies from a 1999 Miata fit a 2002 LS miata? Shopping for winter tires/wheels and need to know before I shell out D:

Your brakes won't clear them (assuming you have the sport brakes).

# ¿ Dec 6, 2007 19:21

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

The Panasonic CQ-TX5500D is the only appropriate response.. for $900 :cry:

# ¿ Dec 7, 2007 17:07

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

I can answer two of your questions.

1. A hard top is worth about a grand in good condition, so keep that in mind. I'm not quite sure what the Canadian market is like, but if your new car prices have any bearing on it, $9k might not be that unreasonable. Try and find some ended auctions on eBay in your area or something, those are usually a good measure of real market value

2. It heats up well, since the cabin is obviously only for two people (quite spacey though). You'd probably want a hardtop with the defroster as well.

# ¿ Dec 8, 2007 02:06

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

I maintain that the only acceptable body kit on a Miata is the Pitcrew conversion.

# ¿ Dec 8, 2007 03:26

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

Schwack posted:

Blech. They're both awful, in my opinion.

It all makes sense when you see the rear end :swoon:

# ¿ Dec 8, 2007 04:19

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

Amir posted:

About $600, plus installation (you might be able to do it yourself with thorough instructions and a helper)

Isn't it arguably easier just to swap over the entire completed NB top (rails and all) as opposed to attaching a new top to already installed rails? Either way, maybe check car-part.com to see if you can find what you want relatively close.

# ¿ Dec 10, 2007 18:43

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

I'm waiting for Savington to deliver the word, but I think that even the GT2554 should easily provide decent power up to that mark.

# ¿ Dec 12, 2007 23:05

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# ¿ Apr 29, 2024 04:04

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

FireTora posted:

edgeracing.com carries them. Alternatively the Falken Azenis RT-615s come in 205/50/15 and would fit. I haven't used either myself yet since i have yet to buy a set of 6ULs, can't afford them at the moment sadly.

http://www.onlinetires.com/ Sells them as well (the RS2s)

# ¿ Dec 14, 2007 04:25

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > MIATA THREAD - My Third Gear Syncro Is On Grindr

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