MIATA THREAD - My Third Gear Syncro Is On Grindr

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destructo: Apr 29, 2006

doublepost :smith:

destructo fucked around with this message at 21:38 on Dec 14, 2007

# ¿ Dec 14, 2007 21:14

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# ¿ May 16, 2024 01:56

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

Christmas came early :madmax:

. 949racing 6UL's, 15x8, 12.8lbs

destructo fucked around with this message at 21:19 on Dec 14, 2007

# ¿ Dec 14, 2007 21:15

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

velocityJE posted:

So I get in my car to leave work yesterday, and I discover the driver's side window won't roll down. It's a '99, power windows and it was kinda rainy. D'ya think this is something I can fix myself? This is a huge bother for me, and I'd like to fix it ASAP.

If your car was older, I'd say to check the switch contacts, I'm not sure if 8 years is enough to foul them yet, but it's worth a shot. The windows in my '90 quit working right after I bought it, some steel wool and electrical contact cleaner fixed it right up. Check miata.net and the garage section there.

# ¿ Jan 14, 2008 03:21

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

The 93LE is freakin' sweet, those wheels in good condition are worth at least $600. If you do end up buying it, please, please don't muck it up. I know it's stupid, but just get a random black/tan to mess with, if those are your plans.

That said, the 1.6 is still a lot of fun, once you drive one you'll see that the fun is not in a straight line (stock, anyway

# ¿ Jan 29, 2008 05:40

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

compton rear end terry posted:

I am looking at a 1996 Miata. They are asking $4650. It has 100,000 miles on it. It looks like it needs a new top. The headlight motor and windshield are broken, and they are willing to replace it. The AIR BAG light is also on, and stays on. How much would it be to fix the air bag? Is this a good deal?

That might be a good deal if nothing was broken (depending on the market, but still). I got my 1990 with 69k miles+hardtop in pristine condition for slightly more than that.

# ¿ Feb 2, 2008 23:42

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

Just posting to say that grinder from Autokonexion is making some progress.. evidently this will be available sometime in March 2008 -- Link.

# ¿ Feb 6, 2008 04:16

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

Ziploc posted:

How do they do that? A hatch then a trunk? I've never seen now the S2k ones work either.

The trunk (with integrated lip spoiler) and the hatch will come as one piece, with a door that opens onto the trunk. The piece will attach/replace the rear glass on your current hardtop.

# ¿ Feb 6, 2008 04:42

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

Yeah.

edit: goddammit, had no idea it was a RX-7 hood.

destructo fucked around with this message at 19:51 on Feb 11, 2008

# ¿ Feb 11, 2008 19:30

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

But Slopehead, I pull around ~30mpg on the highway in my Miata and that's turning at well over 4k rpms the whole way! Come on, gas won't break you!

# ¿ Feb 13, 2008 04:50

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

Schwack posted:

Oh good, more weight for the NC

I do hope it boosts their sales some and maybe encourages more manufacturers to get in on this segment.

I'm sure it can't be worse than the retractable hardtop, and I'm sure it adds more structural integrity too. Even the hardtop on my car makes a noticeable difference.

# ¿ Feb 13, 2008 22:55

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

NB coupe

Sigh, double post :smith:

# ¿ Feb 13, 2008 23:00

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

Wrar posted:

I called Mazda about 6 times (~15 different VINs) when I was looking for a Miata. The various people I talked to said no problem and were really cool about it. I suspect I'm not the only person to have done that.

Yeah, they're pretty awesome about this.

# ¿ Feb 16, 2008 03:08

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

Garage Vary front lip R-speed group buy ends today at midnight!! Obviously they don't come cracked.
http://rspeed.net/product_info.php?products_id=3378

destructo fucked around with this message at 20:34 on Feb 17, 2008

# ¿ Feb 17, 2008 19:54

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

Sigh you guys are so m.net :v:

# ¿ Feb 18, 2008 07:36

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

Anyone ever used these eBay timing belt kits? (link)

There's a thread on miata.net, but I figured I'd check here/spread the word. They appear to be of good quality and cheap as gently caress. Now I just need mobn to come over and install it for me.

# ¿ Feb 19, 2008 02:21

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

mobn posted:

Either there's a layer of sarcasm I'm missing here or you've got me mixed up with somebody who's actually good at working on cars.

Ha no, it's just that I have no experience working on cars, and you're the closest Miata-owning goon I know :v:

# ¿ Feb 19, 2008 05:52

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

brosef deluxe posted:

I've been having an interesting little malfunction on my '95 after I drained my battery by leaving my lights on at work. After I jump started it, the car was not wanting to idle correctly. At no throttle, it would drop the idle down to 100-200 RPM and generally shake and be pissed off, then slowly bring itself back up to the normal 850 rpm. Off idle, there's no difference in drivability. Okay easy fix, I'm thinking that my EGR valve is crapping out, or my TB needs cleaning. Right?

Here's where it gets strange: When I turn my headlights on, the idle will not drop. I'm honestly mystified. Any thoughts, AI?

Does it sound like this?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XtVBpNNoHg

I wish I could get my car to do that on command.. sounds lumpy :fap:

edit: evidently it does have different cams.

destructo fucked around with this message at 05:24 on Feb 21, 2008

# ¿ Feb 21, 2008 05:21

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

Phone posted:

I'm trying to sell my 1996 as a parts car, but I'm having little to no luck on selling it whole. The problem is that I don't have the time nor tools to sufficiently part it out myself and make a small mint. I'm asking 1000$ for it on craigslist, and the only two "serious" hits have offered 500$ or less for it. Should I just take the money and call it a day and keep the seats and tail lights (about 100$ in stuff)?

Where do you live and does it have a Torsen? Seats and tail lights are about ~200/300 depending on who you can dump them on.

# ¿ Feb 26, 2008 01:44

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

Yeah, I think the problem is that for the price premium of an MSM, you could make a hell of a FI miata yourself.

# ¿ Feb 27, 2008 18:27

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

Well guys, I got some things for my 6UL's to wear in the mail today.. the rental office was annoyed enough to call me the moment they came in to pick them up :coal:

# ¿ Mar 7, 2008 18:52

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

Ize posted:

When I, y'know, get enough money to actually buy a Miata(college student) I'm going to be using the exact same wheels and tires.

I worked 60 hours a week last summer at my internship to pick mine up, and boy, it was worth it :3:

# ¿ Mar 7, 2008 19:49

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

mobn posted:

Ouch, that sucks. I work 15 hours in a week if I'm lucky and I'll have mine paid off before year out.

Yeah I'm back to around ~15 hours a week now, but I'm working a healthy 60 hours over break to start paying off the planned BEGI-S kit, are you going to hit any of the autocross meets in the area this season?

edited for grammatical inaccuracy.

destructo fucked around with this message at 04:36 on Mar 8, 2008

# ¿ Mar 8, 2008 03:59

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

Schwack posted:

From my shopping experience, prices bounce all over. Why dont you just get on craiglist/autotrader and start looking? That will give you a better idea than anything you'll find here.

Exactly, individual markets fluctuate way too much to really give a nice general price, don't even get me started on Seattle.

For reference, the 1990 Miata+hardtop I picked up with 69k miles on it in Rockford, IL went for ~4700 when I bargained them down due to a couple minor things (timing belt not done, etc). I called 15 minutes after it posted to CL and when they got back to me, they said that 14 people had called after I did. I saw it that night, gave them a check, and picked it up the next week when it cleared.

destructo fucked around with this message at 08:40 on Mar 8, 2008

# ¿ Mar 8, 2008 08:06

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

Can anyone here relate any experiences with OEM windblockers? I'm thinking about putting one from an NB into my NA and was curious. M.net doesn't have too many user reviews.

# ¿ Mar 11, 2008 03:16

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

Hypnolobster posted:

Say that I was after a Miata for spec racing or autocross, and perhaps a weekend car to drive around. What years should I be looking at?
I'm not your usual AI poster that's 7 feet tall and 280 pounds, rather I'm 6 foot and 190lbs, so I should fit nicely.

Most Spec racers use NA's (89-97), they're lighter and have a bit less in the means of creature comforts. You'd probably want a 94-97 to take advantage of the bigger 1.8 liter engine and possible Torsen LSD.

# ¿ Mar 11, 2008 21:34

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

DreamOn13 posted:

Alright goons, I need some help on deciding to buy this miata or not. It's a 94 and I think it's an A package (no power locks, windows, but it has a/c, cloth seats, 5 speed, and I think it has power steering) and it's listed for $3500. It needs a new top (holes patched with duct tape...) And the brakes are gone, but I'm pretty sure it only needs new pads. It was leaking fluid from the radiator cap and from where one of the heater hoses goes into the firewall. There was a spot of oil on the ground after I moved the car, so it leaks some oil apparently too, but it didn't shoot any blue smoke out of the tailpipe on start up. The 2nd gear synchro is a little worn, but I'm used to that as I drive a high mileage DSM. It's been repainted, and there is orange peel on the doors, but overall it doesn't look too bad. The cloth seats are a little torn up and the interior isn't in the greatest shape. What do you guys think this car is worth? It has 141k miles also for the record. Interior has some rattle from behind the driver's seat somewhere. Here's some pictures:

Maybe in Seattle :v:

I'd talk him down to ~2 grand, a new top's going to be ~300+labor, pads ~60-70, the oil leak is probably the CAS oil ring. Does the timing belt need to be done? Why has it been repainted?

Bottom line: not worth your trouble for 3.5k

destructo fucked around with this message at 01:53 on Mar 12, 2008

# ¿ Mar 12, 2008 00:42

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

WT Wally posted:

Not to derail your question Mo Hawk, but someone once told me that the Kia Sephia's 1.8 was the same 1.8 that's in the NB Miata. Is there any truth to this? For some reason I really don't think so, maybe he meant that they are swappable? I don't know what he was talking about.

Yeah, it is. The nice thing is that you can get a nice, barely used 1.8 out of a 2000-ish Sephia for $300.

# ¿ Mar 15, 2008 20:47

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

Sudden Infant Def Syndrome posted:

What are some good tires that have pretty good grip but last alot longer than those 8-9k Azenis? I need new tires come spring, and I've been told Azenis over and over, but I can't afford to put new tires on it every year.

You might be able to roll two years out of a set of T1R's, but obviously that depends on your habits. I'm hoping to get around ~15k out of my RS2's. Which, incidentally, I got mounted on my 6UL's and onto my car yesterday. It's still cold and rainy (~30/40F), but it's a huge difference over the 185/60/14 Goodyear T/A all-seasons I was running before. That and my fenders are filled! Can't wait till it warms up.

edit: check out my 4x4 :v:

destructo fucked around with this message at 05:42 on Mar 19, 2008

# ¿ Mar 18, 2008 18:16

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

Phone posted:

Oh, wow... something new to consider...

Then again, the difference in price between the Azenis and RS2s are going to be in shipping. Vulcan Tire can get you Azenis to your door for 280$, it looks like the RS2s might be 40 dollars more.

Try calling Joe at tireshoppe.com, he got me a killer deal on my 225/45/15's. His number is 866-208-6551.

Evidently Hankook actually dropships the RS2 right to you, and they subsidize the shipping, so there's a good chance you might be able to get it cheaper through him.

# ¿ Mar 19, 2008 00:32

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

Luxmore posted:

Transmission question re: '97 5-speed

Sometimes- but not all the time- and especially when the car is not warmed up- my transmission is a bit reluctant to shift into 2nd gear. I'll move the shifter towards the gear, and it'll kind of "bump" unless I let off the gas or park the shifter in neutral for a second.

Now, I would normally assume that the 2nd gear synchro is going, but that would cause trouble all the time, wouldn't it? Or maybe I don't understand the process of transmissions gradually making GBS threads the bed.

The car's due for a service soon, but if anyone has any input, I'd love to hear it.

It's a fairly common issue, try replacing your transmission/turret oil and see if that takes care of it, I can't recall the specific weight, but do a search on miata.net. I believe Redline is the recommended oil.

# ¿ Mar 27, 2008 06:45

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

FireTora posted:

Just get the cheap NAPA rotors for $18 each (22 in the case of the 1.8 brakes), its not worth the extra money getting the others unless you enjoy throwing money away. If you need brake pads also getcoolparts.com sells the Axxis/PBR Ultimate pads for 62ish shipped for the whole car I saw a Mazda6 knob on eBay the other day for ~20 bucks but I don't know if it still there, I got mine from Rosenthal Mazda for 93 I think with paypal monies.

Does anyone know how those Axxis pads compare to the various Carbotech ones?

# ¿ Mar 27, 2008 18:44

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

FireTora posted:

Just finished installing my ES control arm bushings on saturday, it made a huge change in the car. Feels much more solid now and more planted/flatter in turns. Car is at 12 inch front height and 12.5 rear from center of wheel to fender lip right now, probably going to bump it up to 12.5/13 before i go get an alignment next week to get a bit more shock travel. Rears were just barely sitting on my bump stops on friday before I raised my GCs ~3 thread.

That's with OEM stops right? Might want to look into the FCM's.

edit: ah, I'm still reading up on this suspension stuff, so a ~12 ride hight essentially dumps me on the stock bumpstops?

destructo fucked around with this message at 20:18 on Mar 31, 2008

# ¿ Mar 31, 2008 19:53

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

Schwack posted:

Suspension bits

Thats everything I've come up with so far. Like I said, Im definitely open to change what I've got listed here, but I would like to try and have my decision nailed down by later this week so I can get started ordering this stuff!

Do you already have Fatcat Motorsports bumpstops? Those FM springs will drop your car about 1/1.5 inches right? The replacement bumpstops will help you retain your original suspension travel and they're fairly cheap.

edit:
Sweet jesus, someone actually bought the -27et Racer-x and is mounting them on their NA over at clubroadster.net :lol:

destructo fucked around with this message at 18:52 on Apr 1, 2008

# ¿ Apr 1, 2008 18:30

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

XXXXXXXXXXXXXXX posted:

You want the 195/50/15 Bridgestone RE-01R. It is faster than the Azenis and much faster than the T1R and MX.

They're also expensive, the Hankook RS2 is a great compromise, and is just slightly slower than the 615 yet more livable day to day.

# ¿ Apr 12, 2008 19:10

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

HolyChase posted:

Is the gearing on the NB's very short or was this just for the MSMs? Do people prefer the 6 speeds over the 5 speeds as it is a higher priced option? With my complaints about the MSM, does it make sense that maybe I would prefer a 5 speed?

The 6-speeds have been known to be questionable in "feel", most people prefer the 5-speed, but if you're going to push more than 250whp you're likely to grenade the thing at some point (the 5). That said, the 6-speed gives about a .5 sec decrease on the 0-60 times, and essentially the same cruising RPM on the top end, so if you can get a nice-feeling 6-speed and don't worry much about rowing, I'd go for it.

GoblinBomb posted:

NC pics

Lookin' good, now get some red covers for those taillights

# ¿ Apr 13, 2008 04:31

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

GoblinBomb posted:

Where can I find these?

I wish I could say, it might just be a custom laminex job or something, but it looks amazing.

# ¿ Apr 13, 2008 09:37

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

leica posted:

Got any more pics of this? That is the best looking NC I've seen yet, the wheels are perfect for it, and it's amazing what eliminating the wheel gap will do for it too. Looks like he painted the roll bars to match the wheels, nice touch.

Evidently people are just using lamin-x vinyl, check this thread
http://clubroadster.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5875&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=120

Here's a couple more nice ones

# ¿ Apr 13, 2008 22:31

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

Ziploc posted:

I've never purchase/replaced an exhaust before. What should I know when shopping around?

Nothing much really, I'd just look at the clubroadster exhaust sound database, or just start youtubing stuff. Just don't expect any significant gains unless you're FI.

# ¿ Apr 16, 2008 17:07

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

Ziploc posted:

Any recommendations?

The Volt begins to sound lovely after being broken in, and the fiberglass spilling out of them isn't worth it, even if it is cheap as gently caress. I think the Tsudo can is pretty decent for the price, and I know that Borla's systems are relatively close to stock as to noise level.

# ¿ Apr 17, 2008 00:52

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# ¿ May 16, 2024 01:56

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

Yeah, I took mine out in the snow in Wisconsin a couple times this winter out of necessity and it wasn't bad at all, although I've grown up with RWD cars my whole life and learned pretty early on that there's a right and a wrong time to get on the loud pedal.

# ¿ May 1, 2008 07:16

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