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That was kind of my first thought so we kept the door shut last night. The fan literally ran all night and the bathroom was ice cold. Like below 60f when the rest of the house is 74. It has no return duct.
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Jul 21, 2017 18:54
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emanonii posted:Just went and looked at mine. For the front, I'd use the arms where the front wheels attach, and for the back, either put the strap over each rear wheel or anywhere on the frame. You may also want to lower the deck so it doesn't bounce around. Thanks! The front wheel arms and frame seen like good ideas.
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Jul 21, 2017 19:00
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eddiewalker posted:LEDs will put out tremendously less heat. I used to have two incandescent cans at my bathroom vanity and they felt like the outdoor sun. LEDs put out no noticeable heat in the same place. Thanks for the advice. I'll check it out.
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Jul 21, 2017 19:07
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Jerk McJerkface posted:I have a finished loft attic, it gets really hot up there. My fall project is to get some A/C up there, but in the meantime, it has four of those KFC chicken heater BR30 recessed lamps. Those get ridiculously hot. I'd like to replace them with LEDs, but I'm curious if the LEDs are actually any cooler. Watts in = heat out. Period. Even if they "soak" with heat and are uncomfortable to the touch they still only pull 13 watts instead of 60 watts. Regardless of how you do this you're going to need to light the room.
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Jul 21, 2017 19:27
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eddiewalker posted:I have a tiny shower+toilet bathroom, less than 10sqft. It has a humidity-sensing exhaust fan set to kick on above 80%RH. There's a damper on the fan and on the roof outlet, but neither are particularly air-tight. Lately as outdoor temps have risen, the fan has been cycling on and off constantly, even when the room is bone dry. My suspicion is that warm, moist air is leaking down the exhaust and triggering the fan. Is there an attic above it? I'd guess that when the fan was wired, they didn't seal the hole that was drilled in the top plate... you could have air coming down from the attic and fooling the sensor. Easy to fix if you can get to it.
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Jul 22, 2017 00:09
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Greetings, DIY goons. My firstborn is two weeks old (yay!) and I'm bored out of my loving mind (boo!), as she's basically just a pooping, crying bag of flesh. I need a project to keep me busy during the long nights. I'd like to create a NASA-styled keyboard, similar to this, using an existing keyboard:  The sanding and painting is pretty simple-seeming, but I haven't figured out how to get the letters onto the painted keycaps. I've been thinking that transparent stickers or some sort of rub-on application might work, but I'm not a maker, so I have no idea how to approach this. Anyone have any ideas? Without any guidance, I'm pretty much stuck with trying to gin up some custom printed stickers, but even then, I don't know who can print them.
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Jul 22, 2017 00:33
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devicenull posted:Is there an attic above it? I'd guess that when the fan was wired, they didn't seal the hole that was drilled in the top plate... you could have air coming down from the attic and fooling the sensor. Easy to fix if you can get to it. I installed it. I'm not sure what you mean by top plate. The fan unit is pushed up into the attic through a hole in the ceiling drywall. There's foil tape sealing all the way around that. In the attic there's insulated flexible ducting coming from the outlet on the side of the fan making a gentle 90 degree bend and then going 3ft directly up to a dampered roof vent. Zip ties and foil tape on both ends. The electrical wiring is all sealed up per the manufacturer. I don't know how I could have done it any better. I popped off the floor AC register and put foil tape underneath to seal it up to test my original theory about the colder room temp exacerbating the relative humidity. We'll see how often the fan cycles while I try to sleep tonight. Between the tiny attached bathroom and the master bedroom there were 4 AC registers, and a single return. I certainly won't miss one supply.
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Jul 22, 2017 00:34
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null_pointer posted:Greetings, DIY goons.
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Jul 22, 2017 00:51
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i like nice words
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Anne Whateley posted:There are a ton of good results from googling "custom keyboard stickers." The first result has a minimum run of 10, which means they'll probably do 1 if you pay more. Sigh. How is it that "custom keyboard stickers" brings that first result back, but "custom keycaps" doesn't. Thanks for the suggestion!
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Jul 22, 2017 00:58
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eddiewalker posted:I installed it. I'm not sure what you mean by top plate. Ah, your humidity sensor is built into the fan? I have a separate sensor that's just mounted in a standard wall box.
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Jul 22, 2017 01:09
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devicenull posted:Ah, your humidity sensor is built into the fan? I have a separate sensor that's just mounted in a standard wall box. Yep. It's all self-contained. Seemed like a nice simple retrofit solution for minimal wiring.
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Jul 22, 2017 01:11
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for architectural LED lighting with a mind-numbing pricetag but quality to go with it, check out Soraa. they have a huge line of products, all of them are dimmable by phase-cut dimmers down to a ~2% dropout, a decent range of color temperature options, and a heatsink that looks neat enough it could be used in an exposed track light application. and a CRI of like 95. conveniently their PAR30s also come in long-neck versions in case your fixture is dumb. also they're all single-emitter which is nice on the other hand, $35-55/bulb edit: i just did a spec for an art gallery using these and they're gonna end up being able to fit the whole place on two 15A circuits with a reasonable-person amount of dimming power, which was... not gonna be the case at 75-120W per lamp (the Soraa PAR38s are 18.5W) SoundMonkey fucked around with this message at 03:21 on Jul 22, 2017 |
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Jul 22, 2017 03:18
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Counterpoint: there's a good chance your utilities have a subsidy program that brings a few decent LED bulbs below $3/each at Home Depot.
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Jul 22, 2017 03:36
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All I want is a 150+ watt equivalent dimmable omnidirectional LED with a normal base. I don't care if it's $30, I've spent more than that on terrible Philips LEDs that were promised for 22 years but poo poo the bed after 2.
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Jul 22, 2017 04:22
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Anne Whateley posted:All I want is a 150+ watt equivalent dimmable omnidirectional LED with a normal base. I don't care if it's $30, I've spent more than that on terrible Philips LEDs that were promised for 22 years but poo poo the bed after 2. (poo poo, i mis-read where you said 'omnidirectional', i apologize if this is useless to you but hopefully it's less useless to someone else) the higher end of these is 1190 lumens (with a CRI of 85, down from 95 for the 930 lumen version) if i'm remembering my numbers right. they're meant to be 120W equivalent. http://www.soraa.com/products/21-PAR30S you can even choose your beam width from 9 degrees to 60 degrees
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Jul 22, 2017 07:25
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null_pointer posted:Greetings, DIY goons. This might sound sort of dumb as a thought because it could do more damage than not, but have you considered something like a cheap, small battery-powered engraver? Engrave the letters, then get a fine felt tip pen to fill it in in the colors you want, then rub off the ink that's on the surface and not in the etched letter, then maybe some sort of clear coat or something to seal it? If you haven't painted it yet, you could maybe just etch over the existing letters just deep enough that they'd still be recessed from the surface under a a thin coat of paint before trying ink/clear coat, or use the engrave one more time to carve out the paint that got into those engraved parts?
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Jul 22, 2017 07:50
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JediTalentAgent posted:This might sound sort of dumb as a thought because it could do more damage than not, but have you considered something like a cheap, small battery-powered engraver? Instead of a felt pen you could even use nail polish. It comes in opaque black, white, grey, or any other color you want. It would completely fill in the etched grooves, leaving a smooth surface. If you need to do touch ups a little acetone removes it cleanly. Once it hardens it won't wear away quickly just from being touched by fingertips while typing.
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Jul 22, 2017 08:15
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This may or may not be a fast question. I have two young boys, and the basement is their playroom. Right now the stairs are pretty unsafe, with a single railing and a large gap (and I have no idea about the code acceptability of it, my home inspector didn't flag it though). I'd like to reinforce it with either balusters or additional railings, preferably while also shifting the railing itself to be flush with the carriage/wall so I have more usable stair width. Right now what I would call the "newel" post is screwed into the carriage and is relatively rigid, but I'm not sure if I would be better off securing it or a 4x4 as a replacement to the concrete as well as the carriage instead of just relying on the carriage alone.    Currently I have two ideas of how to approach the problem. Option 1 is to just add two additional vertical posts to the gap to reinforce the railing, and put in boards of some sort to span the gap. Optionally shift the railing to directly connect to the wall if that's feasible. Something like this image, but cleaned up and painted or something:  Option two is to remove the existing railing and newel, truncate the bottom carriage and put in a 4 x 4 into the concrete in its place. Then either re-use the existing railing or get a new railing and connect it into the 4 x 4 directly, then either add balusters or do the boards as in the above image. I'm very new to this sort of thing, as my bad terminology probably illustrates. I'm hoping this can be a relatively simple first project to get my feet wet.
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Jul 22, 2017 14:43
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Velius posted:
So you want to build an elevated ladder for them to play on?
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Jul 22, 2017 14:48
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devicenull posted:So you want to build an elevated ladder for them to play on? Good point, but I do have a ceiling mounted trapeze that they do most of their monkey stuff on. They're three and six, I'm generally more worried about them running down and missing a step then climbing the side.
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Jul 22, 2017 14:54
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Velius posted:This may or may not be a fast question. I have two young boys, and the basement is their playroom. Right now the stairs are pretty unsafe, with a single railing and a large gap (and I have no idea about the code acceptability of it, my home inspector didn't flag it though). I'd like to reinforce it with either balusters or additional railings, preferably while also shifting the railing itself to be flush with the carriage/wall so I have more usable stair width. Right now what I would call the "newel" post is screwed into the carriage and is relatively rigid, but I'm not sure if I would be better off securing it or a 4x4 as a replacement to the concrete as well as the carriage instead of just relying on the carriage alone. Your terminology is fine. All I'd say is ⚓ the starting newel stout as a brick shithouse.
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Jul 22, 2017 16:09
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Facebook Aunt posted:Instead of a felt pen you could even use nail polish. It comes in opaque black, white, grey, or any other color you want. It would completely fill in the etched grooves, leaving a smooth surface. If you need to do touch ups a little acetone removes it cleanly. Once it hardens it won't wear away quickly just from being touched by fingertips while typing. One of the reasons I even through in a bit of a warning in my original post is because I'm sort of sure there's room to screw up with the etching process, though. I don't know how good those handheld battery etchers would be for the type of plastic on a keyboard. A small Dremel MIGHT have some extremely small etching tips to choose from. I wonder if another option could be something like after painting the keys is to use 'dry transfer' labels. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ed6iXQW_O1U I think they make various sizes of this, so sheets with small enough fonts and most characters might be found. It'd also maybe be flatter than a regular sticker and just topping of each key with a clear nail polish or paint to keep them from wearing off might be a quick/safer/cheaper option.
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Jul 22, 2017 19:33
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Our basement needs waterproofed badly.. We knew this when we bought the house about a year and a half ago, and its time now.. We got 3 quotes and all seemed to do want to do the same thing: drill weep holes pitch the drains to a new big sump well put in another sump pump, battery backup, 6inch gutters, and run the lines way away from the house.. And put some support beams on a wall that the previous owner rebuilt himself as it was starting to push in when he was here.. I say all of that because its going to cost about ~$12,000 after we put down some of our money and the deposit for the work... What's the best place to finance that through? I don't think we have enough equity in the house seeing as how we just bought it not even 2 years ago... I think the right answer is try and do a heloc? My credit score is above 800 so I am not sure where I should start?
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Jul 22, 2017 19:42
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Great suggestions on saving this sink. Took forever to relocate all my dishes, pots, and food. Finally took the doors off and I am going slow taking the metal trim off. Used a metal chisel to open a gap between the wall and trim. There is some old adhesive or caulk under the trim, gonna try just soap and a green scruber to remove it. Do these sinks usually use metal trim or caulk against the wall? Gonna use an oscillating tool to carefully cut around the sink, if needed. A chain saw might cut too deeply into my wall, floor, or roof. 
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Jul 22, 2017 19:48
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The chainsaw was not a serious suggestion, so good job on ignoring it.
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Jul 22, 2017 22:02
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The Gardenator posted:Great suggestions on saving this sink. Took forever to relocate all my dishes, pots, and food. Finally took the doors off and I am going slow taking the metal trim off. Used a metal chisel to open a gap between the wall and trim. Metal trim went out before you were born, most likely. What you seal to the wall with depends on if you install a backsplash. You should install a backsplash. There are several popular materials to choose from. If you go with formica (generic name for plastic laminate), which is also going rapidly away, if it hasn't already, a tight bead of clear silicone is what I'd recommend. Kinda looks like that's what's there now. If you go with some sort of tile or stone, then its grout & sealer should take care of that for you. Edit- your sink has its own monolithic backsplash, doh, I knew that, so carry on with that
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Jul 22, 2017 22:13
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JediTalentAgent posted:I wonder if another option could be something like after painting the keys is to use 'dry transfer' labels. I think this is it. Now I need to find the right size of Helvetica! Thank you, so much!
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Jul 22, 2017 22:35
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Cross-posted from Tools: Hooray, this is my router's plug:  I have no idea how to go about rescuing this. Can I just buy a new plug of the appropriate gauge, cut the end off of the current one, solder the wires to the new plug, and put some heat-shrink on there? I was planning to buy a new router anyway, but that was so I wouldn't have to keep switching this one between the router table and the plunge base. I don't want to have to buy two new routers. This kind of thing is why I think having an integrated cable is dumb, especially for situations where the plug can easily get underfoot.
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Jul 22, 2017 22:36
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Cross-posted from Tools: Yes you can buy a new plug. They're at Home Depot. It's easy and safe. Screw terminals, no soldering. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-15-Amp-125-Volt-Rubber-Grounding-Plug-R60-515PR-000/100011602
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Jul 22, 2017 22:38
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Hooray, this is my router's plug: It's not wired to anything that I can see, so don't bother. Otherwise if there is a ground wire I can't see in there, yes you cut it off and buy a replacement plug. They just use screws to clamp to the black sheeth.
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Jul 22, 2017 22:47
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Not wired to anything? I snap the functional ground pins off of power strips all the time and they always look like that coming out of molded plugs. If the manufacturer could have saved a nickel with a two prong plug, they would have. The fact that the tool came grounded suggests that it's not double-insulated and should be grounded for safety. (Snapping them off is poor practice if not dangerous, but sometimes i gotta do something quick to get rid of video ground loops)
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Jul 22, 2017 22:53
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Get a few 1 foot extension cords from Monoprice (assuming it doesn't draw more than 13 amps, otherwise look elsewhere) and use it as a plug saver. If it breaks, just throw a new one on and recycle the old one. If you have enough room where you plug it in, loop it and zip tie the cord and extension together on either side of the plugs so they don't come apart accidentally. edit: eddiewalker posted:Not wired to anything? I snap the functional ground pins off of power strips all the time and they always look like that coming out of molded plugs. I was going to yell at you but I do A/V work and I sympathize with the ground loop issue.
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Jul 22, 2017 22:54
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eddiewalker posted:Yes you can buy a new plug. They're at Home Depot. It's easy and safe. Screw terminals, no soldering. Excellent, thanks for the good news! GWBBQ posted:Get a few 1 foot extension cords from Monoprice (assuming it doesn't draw more than 13 amps, otherwise look elsewhere) and use it as a plug saver. If it breaks, just throw a new one on and recycle the old one. If you have enough room where you plug it in, loop it and zip tie the cord and extension together on either side of the plugs so they don't come apart accidentally. That's pretty clever. I should get more of those 1-foot extension cords anyway; the ones I have are all already in use.
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Jul 22, 2017 23:00
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melon cat fucked around with this message at 06:45 on Mar 16, 2019 |
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Jul 22, 2017 23:45
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So, I had approximately the same situation when we bought our house, except it was old and lovely instead of new and lovely. Our fall off gap was bigger than that, close to 4 inches in some places, but then the driveway would lift back upwards after getting around 2' away from the garage. I ended up filling the gap with concrete, right on top of the asphalt, and feathered out to an edge so it was smooth with the asphalt and ramped into the garage. I expected this to crumble up pretty much immediately in Wisconsin winters, but it is still in great shape 6 years later. Just pointing this out, because you might want to do something similar and give the surrounding earth a few more years to settle from all the house construction work. Then, when you have the whole thing re-done hopefully it never goes anywhere again.
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Jul 23, 2017 00:01
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eddiewalker posted:Yes you can buy a new plug. They're at Home Depot. It's easy and safe. Screw terminals, no soldering. or be like me and buy the hospital-grade plugs for hilarious overkill but also lasting forever bear in mind that the strain relief on some of these might not fully tighten around a wire the size of what's coming from your router so you might have to wrap some electrical tape around it pro tip from the cable shop: if it's gonna be used heavily (or in our case, spend most of its life on trucks and planes), put a little dab of silicone on each of the screws after you tighten them down around the wire. comes off easily enough if you need to replace it, but also keeps them from vibrating loose over time
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Jul 23, 2017 00:24
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Cross-posted from Tools: You should be able to open your routers casing and replace the entire cord and plug. If the tool is old, this might be a more permanent repair. I have done this on a 00' worm drive skil saw that I got for free. Should be at least 14 gauge like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001OOMNAQ You can cut the cord as short as you like. You would have to reuse the cord boot or get a new one as well. Some routers have motor brushes you can replace, might be a good time to inspect them if applicable. E: Mr. Mambold posted:Metal trim went out before you were born, most likely. What you seal to the wall with depends on if you install a backsplash. You should install a backsplash. There are several popular materials to choose from. If you go with formica (generic name for plastic laminate), which is also going rapidly away, if it hasn't already, a tight bead of clear silicone is what I'd recommend. Kinda looks like that's what's there now. If you go with some sort of tile or stone, then its grout & sealer should take care of that for you. Oh yeah, at work our kitchen has commercial stainless counters with this thick metallic grey caulk. I think I will use both caulking and then either tile with grout on top or get the countertop people to cut a single piece to cover the entire wall. I am strongly leaning towards getting an engineered quartz counter top, because it is cheap and durable. The Gardenator fucked around with this message at 00:36 on Jul 23, 2017 |
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Jul 23, 2017 00:27
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Raised by Hamsters posted:So, I had approximately the same situation when we bought our house, except it was old and lovely instead of new and lovely. Our fall off gap was bigger than that, close to 4 inches in some places, but then the driveway would lift back upwards after getting around 2' away from the garage.
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Jul 23, 2017 00:52
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melon cat posted:Is there a such thing as "high grade" (ie. it lasts through Canadian winters) asphalt? And how can I make sure that the next Contractor that I use doesn't use cheap asphalt that'll end up like this in only a few years? In other words, what should I look for in a new asphalt driveway in order to make sure that my next driveway replacement isn't a complete disaster (how much should a project like this cost)? it isn't the asphalt that is the issue, it is the underlayment. The builder built too fast and didn't let the ground settle. In time replacing the driveway will just work out regardless of where they got the asphalt from.
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Jul 23, 2017 01:02
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HycoCam posted:Disconnect your mower deck and flip it over. I'm guessing bent blade. If you busted a pulley mount you'd most likely have the mower belts coming off. So this is what the underside looks like. I have no experience with these, so I have no idea if the noise heard previously was from what are obviously damaged blades, or if I should be worried about the other parts as well:  edit for update: I replaced the blades. The tractor still sounds exactly the same (damaged.) There is a lawnmower repair place near me, so I'll take the deck over there and have it looked at professionally. I need to get my weed wacker fixed too anyway. SouthShoreSamurai fucked around with this message at 21:18 on Jul 23, 2017 |
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Jul 23, 2017 15:57
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