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How can I hammer in a finishing nail when I have an obstruction immediately overhead? I am trying to put in a piece of quarter round moulding on a bathroom vanity, but the vanity top is about 1/4" above, so I can't hammer in the nail fully (i.e. to the point where I can switch to a nailset) without hitting the vanity top (and damaging it).
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Apr 17, 2019 23:47
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AFewBricksShy posted:Could you start it with a smaller drill bit and then use a nail set to punch it in the rest of the way? I'm new to all this handyman stuff so I don't have a power drill  The head of the finishing nail is only 1/16". I tried using the 1/32" nailset on it before it had fully gone into the moulding but it wouldn't really budge. I also tried to put the nail through the vanity alone, but the vanity top runs into the way again. this is how it looks from the side
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Apr 18, 2019 00:14
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AFewBricksShy posted:If it’s just purely decorative, why not just glue it into place? yeah that's what I was thinking, this is just what the people in the interior design thread recommended. What about silicone caulk? I have plenty of that left over.
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Apr 18, 2019 01:54
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Will do. I will probably just caulk it or just leave it alone.
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Apr 18, 2019 18:00
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I have an outlet cover that I can't reattach because the hole the screw goes into (in the middle) got stripped somehow. What are my options? Just to be clear I was able to remove the old screw.
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May 4, 2019 03:16
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:New outlets are cheap and pretty easy to install, as long as the previous installer didn't leave you like 1" of wire in the box to work with. Flip the breaker, verify the outlet is unpowered, remove the cover, pull the outlet out, unscrew the terminals on the outlet to release the wires (keep track of which wire attaches where), attach the wires in the same place on the new outlet, put the outlet in the box, put the cover back on. tbh I have no electrical experience at all, and the outlet isn't particularly critical. If there's no way to screw it in I'd rather just stick a blank plate on it.
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May 4, 2019 03:35
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Is there anyway to rethread the hole? And yeah I was thinking about glueing it. I'm just very paranoid about zapping myself.
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May 4, 2019 04:02
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Okay. The video I saw more involved and used a copper grounding wire and wire strippers.
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May 4, 2019 04:15
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Are you talking about just regular glue or something else? And my plan is to just die here so I'm not too worried
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May 4, 2019 05:10
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I'm happy to report that I successfully changed my electrical outlet! I wasn't initially sure how to remove the wires from the back (they were put in those holes instead of wrapped and screwed on the side), so I had to expose some new wire on one of them before realizing I could just kind of twist back and forth to remove the others. Question about closet doors - mine are pretty closed to aligned but not perfect. What is the point of those metal hinges on the bottom of the doors, on the inside? Are they supposed to be positioned in a certain manner? They bend pretty easily.
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May 11, 2019 18:29
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Slugworth posted:A) Good on you. The correct way to remove those backstabbed wires btw is to insert a small screwdriver into the hole next to the wire, which then releases the wire. The fact that you were able to wiggle them out is why a lot of electricians don't like seeing outlets backstabbed. Thanks. The doors look pretty good from the front (I had to remove and put them in again due to painting), but from the side, it's a bit uneven. i.e. the left edge of the right door protrudes out about 1/2 farther then the right edge of the left door (i.e. it's about 1/2 inch closer to me, at least in the middle, from the POV of this picture). I'm wondering if one of those hinges is pushing the right door outward a bit.
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May 11, 2019 22:00
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I'm going to be replacing my carpet with laminate. I have a concrete subfloor, and I'm pretty sure the height of the laminate + underlayment is larger than the distance between the concrete and the bottom of the baseboard. Is it better to pull out and raise the baseboard, or to simply have the laminate butt up against the baseboard, and then cover it up with a quarter round?
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Mar 8, 2020 01:27
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Slugworth posted:To be clear, don't have the the laminate "butt up" to the base, but yeah, leave the base in, leave a 1/4" gap between laminate and base, and install shoe. Unless of course the height difference makes your baseboard look unacceptably short. Okay thanks. I don't really mind pulling up the baseboard as long as I don't damage it. I'm having someone install the floor and she has the air compressor thing to quickly nail it in again. One other question: I'm going to keep the carpet in my bedroom. Is there a way to replace a section of the carpet without it looking off? I still have plenty of the original roll.
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Mar 8, 2020 18:38
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PainterofCrap posted:Short answer: no. Carpet is held in place by tack strip around the perimeter, and kicked/stretched taut on that strip. Okay thanks. I'll just keep using my carpet cleaner on that little section. I thought the whole point of keeping the extra carpet was to replace these kind of sections though? If it was against the wall would it be doable? Or if the carpet was replaced up to the nearest wall?
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Mar 8, 2020 18:53
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DrBouvenstein posted:Makes you wonder why carpet tiles haven't caught on for home use. I guess there are sightly visible seams, but obviously would help with fixing stains, rips, etc... Yeah I'm definitely doing those if I go back to carpet (unlikely though due to dogs)
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Mar 9, 2020 04:37
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BigFactory posted:They’re expensive. I took a look at ones by Shaw (which seems to be a well-regarded brand), and they are usually 155/case. A case is 20 2x2 foot tiles, so 80 sq. ft. That's only about $2 / sq. foot. Seems cheap!
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Mar 9, 2020 17:36
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I have some humidity damage on my bathrooms walls. I just repainted, but you can see the paint cracking (the brown was the previous paint). Is this just a matter of chipping away all the old layers of paint and then painting again, or could be there be any sort of damage to the walls? If so how would I know? It's been like this for years, though I never noticed it until someone pointed it out.
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Apr 12, 2020 21:04
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devicenull posted:Test for lead, sand the surface until it's smooth, clean with TSP, two coats of primer, two coats of paint. thanks - what's TSP? can I just use a scraper to remove the paint instead actionjackson fucked around with this message at 22:16 on Apr 12, 2020 |
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Apr 12, 2020 22:07
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Any idea why this faucet handle would suddenly come out? I can put it back on and use the faucet just fine, but when I return it to the off position it just stays on loosely, so you can just pull it off again if you pull directly outward. If you pull at an angle the water will come out as normal. In the middle part of the handle, there is a very tiny set screw that just goes barely into the square opening. Maybe that needs to be tightened but I don't have an allen wrench with that tight of an angle. Page 10 shows the assembly - https://www.kraususa.com/pub/media/catalog/product/documentation/KPF-1610-IM.pdf actionjackson fucked around with this message at 01:21 on Apr 20, 2020 |
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Apr 20, 2020 01:17
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Slugworth posted:You already figured it out. Go get a tiny allen wrench. You might end up finding that the plastic bit has worn enough that it's difficult/impossible to get a good tight fit though. I would think you would have to have the handle back on the assembly first and then tighten it, but I don't see any logistical way of doing that. Alternatively I assume there is some sort of plumbing adhesive I could use.
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Apr 20, 2020 01:38
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PainterofCrap posted:Install the handle, then rotate it back towards the backsplash (which is probably full hot). That should put the access hole where it's possible to insert an Allen wrench. ah cool thanks guys
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Apr 20, 2020 04:35
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I've replaced the flapper/chain thing in my toilet but my toilet still runs every so often. When I put in one of those cleaning tablets some of the blue stuff leaks into the bowl, so I know I have a leak somewhere still. Is there a way to figure out where the exact source of the leak is? I'm guessing the next step is replacing the entire assembly inside the tank?
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Apr 20, 2020 18:42
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Jaded Burnout posted:
Pretty sure it's the latter. Here's what it looks like. Could there be an issue with the white cylinder?
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Apr 20, 2020 19:51
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Thanks, the flapper is pretty much new but I never thought about wiping down the area where it touches the tank, I'll give that a try first.
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Apr 20, 2020 22:44
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So what's the ONE WEIRD TRICK to get rust both at the bottom of my toilet bowl, and underneath the lip off? I have tried the regular toilet bowl cleaners, I have tried scrubbing it with CLR, it doesn't budge. I've heard pumice stones might work?
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Apr 29, 2020 19:39
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eddiewalker posted:Have you tried an abrasive powder like Comet or Barkeeper’s? No not yet, I can try the Comet stuff. I'm not sure how best to apply it as even if I turn off the water there will still be some water at the bottom of the toilet bowl where some of the rust is. As for under the lid of the toilet bowl, I'll probably just have to put on gloves and use my finger and rub it on otherwise I can't get a good angle.
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Apr 29, 2020 20:32
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Okay the comet worked pretty well on the stuff at the bottom of the bowl. The stuff under the lip is still being resistant, but at least I've made progress. I might try to coat it on there with a toothbrush and let it sit for a while.
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Apr 29, 2020 23:22
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HycoCam posted:Try Iron Out if it is orangish gunk under the rim. What color is it, btw? It's not orange, it's a darker brown color, like rust but a bit darker. I'll spare you all a picture!
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Apr 30, 2020 19:10
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Jaded Burnout posted:Brown stains on a toilet? Mystifying. that would be a pretty magical poo poo to take a 180 degree angle and end up underneath the top it's like that Seinfeld with the loogie Anyway another question, I'm in a multi-unit building, and I have a fan/light with a remote. However if I use the fan, eventually the light turns on (and often then the fan turns off) without me doing anything. Apparently this is not due to ghosts, but is some issue with the other units "interfering." Any ideas?
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Apr 30, 2020 23:02
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I did some touchups to my wall paint. For some reason after it dried, it doesn't match - it looks like someone just sprayed some water on the wall and it never dried - that kind of darker effect. I had used my brush previously with another paint and washed it out as thoroughly as I could. Do you think some of the other paint stayed on the brush and affected the new color, or could it have been that the brush was still wet from the previous washing out (in case that matters)? edit: could this also possible be due to differences in gloss used? say I have an eggshell now but actually used a different gloss previously. actionjackson fucked around with this message at 04:08 on Jul 22, 2020 |
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Jul 22, 2020 03:10
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Yeah, that sounds like a difference in gloss to me. You might try scuffing it lightly with some 200-grit sandpaper. Or that might make it look even worse, it's just an idea I had. thanks. I didn't do a ton of touching up so I'm just going to go to where I got the original paint and double check what they gave me then.
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Jul 22, 2020 04:27
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Final Blog Entry posted:A sheen difference will look different from different angles, usually it'll match better looking straight at the wall and then be much more noticeable looking at it from an angle. Wet brush wouldn't have mattered, adding a touch of water to paint can actually help it touch up sometimes. First thing I would check is that your touch up paint is the exact paint you used, since it sounds like you bought fresh paint to touch up with. Same brand, product line, sheen, and formula. If the original paint was Ben Moore Super Spec, and you bought Ben Moore Regal to touch up, for example, it will be a bit different even if they were both the same color and sheen. Also depending on the paint, where it was bought, and how long ago, there could be something out of your control like the paint product has been reformulated, tinter recalibrated at the store, etc. i went and got two new versions, so hopefully they will resolve the issue. for one of them, I went back to the store where I got the paint done originally so it should match up. The place I got the touchup sample from used a different brand for a base which may have caused the issue as you said. For the other one, I had the original pain the owners used, but it was nine years old, and the cover didn't even stay on after hammering anymore, so that was my bad using it. I did bring in actual pieces from the wall to match.
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Jul 23, 2020 00:37
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every so often (maybe once every day or two) I hear a sound that sounds like my kitchen faucet is being turned on and then turned off after a few seconds. It sounds like it's coming from below where the faucet is. I've heard this as long as I've lived here, even after the faucet and sink were replaced by a professional plumber as part of a small remodel. Anyone know what this could be? There's no water leaking or pooling anywhere.
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Jul 28, 2020 19:40
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My fridge has an icemaker but it's against the other wall. I do have a dishwasher next to the kitchen sink which is using the same water supply (I think, there's a definitely a water line of some sort) when this happens the dishwasher isn't on either
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Jul 28, 2020 20:07
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Are the metal pieces that are attached towards the bottom of closet doors supposed to be angled in a certain way? Specifically the segment that juts out. On mine, the right door has the metal piece angled straight back (i.e. pointing straight into the closet), whereas on the left door it's at an angle about 45 degrees towards the right door. I do notice that if the right door is closed and I try to close the left door, I have to hold the left door closed, otherwise while I can close the left door with the right door staying closed, I will need to push the right door back into place a bit. edit: 1:47 in this video. I can't get inside the closet to adjust them as there's a washer and dryer right inside. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yFckR4AubIY it looks like they should both point somewhat towards the other door so they grab onto each other when the doors are closed? actionjackson fucked around with this message at 02:53 on Jul 29, 2020 |
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Jul 29, 2020 02:10
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i tried texturing with the orange peel stuff from that same brand - never again
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Jul 30, 2020 03:42
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I noticed my fan seemed to be wobbling a bit - I made a little video showing that the beam that goes up to the ceiling is moving slightly left to right. However you can see that where it connects to the piece that goes on the wall, it has room to do that - i.e. if you turn the fan off, you can just sort of move around this beam by itself in a small circle. Is this slight movement intended or something I should be fixing? I'm not sure how else to describe it, but that little black part where it connects - the beam going upward can rotate in a small circle within that area freely. So it seems like this is what's supposed to happen with the fan on? https://twitter.com/fuck_it_all___/status/1290052680342048768
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Aug 2, 2020 23:34
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The Dave posted:That's called a down rod and it is meant to move like that. It also allows you to mount to an angled surface. The fan might have come with a balancing kit where you put little weights on a blade to counter the wobble. If that's a fan that was there when you bought the house I'm sure you can buy one. cool thx! would you say this site is accurate? according to this, my bedroom which is about 141 sq feet should have a fan with a blade span around 44", and I have a 10' ceiling so my downrod should be about 18". The fan that came with the place has a 52" span which looks like it's way too big - according to the chart that's more meant for a ~215 sq ft. room.
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Aug 2, 2020 23:53
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Slugworth posted:Does it hit the walls when it spins? If not, it has been sized appropriately. looks like the ends of the blades are supposed to be at least 30" away from an obstructions, though that might just partially be an appearance thing.
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Aug 3, 2020 00:38
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Is there a 3m command strip or similar solution for attaching something that will hold a shelf? The shelf won't have to hold much weight, so I would prefer not to drill some new holes if possible.
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Aug 20, 2020 00:30
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