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Yeah. Plugged in? Light works at all? If you unscrew the control panel, you can get to the folded up wiring diagram hidden underneath the panel (yes, a folded up paper diagram). It could be a switch on the motor, the dial may be bad, it could be the relay, the motor, hell, there are a whole mess of things it COULD be. First real question though is the dryer gas or electric?
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May 21, 2010 08:22
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Not Memorable posted:Anybody have experience with pool tables? Wanting to shop used, didn't know if there were particular things to watch for or things that make them seem lovely but is actually easy to fix, etc. In my case (helping someone), it was a 12' pool table (or at least that was what I was told) so 6'x4' slabs, a bit over an inch thick and extremely heavy. As long as the slate is in good shape (not chipped too badly, not cracked) you should be able to get it re-felted pretty cheaply, and since most modern pool tables use thinner slate, major damage to one section wouldn't be bank-breaking costly to repair if necessary. Any wood or leather repairs should be fairly simple unless it's horribly broken (or termite infested).
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Sep 2, 2010 03:33
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BorderPatrol posted:Do I need permits to gut and redo a bathroom? Not adding any footage on, just fixing what's broken. Going to replace some plumbing, electrical, tiles, flooring, etc.
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Sep 8, 2010 06:38
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BorderPatrol posted:Hmmm, we're planning on moving out sometime next year. How much would permits like that cost?
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Sep 9, 2010 02:22
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Black Jasper posted:For drilling 3/16" holes in concrete/brick, do I need to use a hammer drill or would a regular 18v cordless drill with a masonry bit suffice? I've done it into 60 year old concrete with a Ryobi 18v cordless drill, so it will work... BUT it will kill the motor. I abused the ever living hell out of that drill and worked until the battery packs failed... well, mostly anyway. Couldn't drill/screw into anything denser than MDF or OSB after that and the motor smelled fried. Then I spent the money on a decent Dewalt corded drill and haven't regretted it for a second.
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Oct 15, 2010 03:31
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Not sure if there is a construction questions thread, so I thought I'd try here first. I am building a garage and was going to use these trusses for the roof and while I know the engineering is sound and it can support the weight of blown in insulation, but I have this nagging feeling that I should put 10" joists and with .75" sheeting above it and then attach the trusses to that. The fact that they are only 2x4 does not reassure me. Has anyone here ever built something using these trusses? Are they really as strong as they say when mounted at only 2 points? Or should I just over-engineer it? Walls are 2x6 at 16" spacing and I was thinking of using 2x10 if I used joists, thinking 14' with 2' overlap with another 2x10 running perpendicular with posts every 10' with joists every 16' (garage is 26'x30'). And Michigan, so I do have to deal with snow.
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May 25, 2015 17:44
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Thank you, I think I had to hear it from someone else. I'll adjust to 24" (I had read about the 24" spacing with 2x6 before) and accept the trusses.
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May 26, 2015 16:33
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Concrete question: I am making a 26x30 garage and city specifications require a 24" deep 4" wide rat wall around the perimeter of the pad. A contractor I called suggested 48" deep 12" wide due to size of garage, the fact that we're in Michigan and wanting to go below the frost line, and that I want to go overspec for a 6" slab (largely due to wanting a car lift, but I'm thinking I might just go with 4" (minimum required) and do a sonatube footing for the lift at a later date). Also, due to a few websites I've seen ([url]http://www.concreteconstruction.net/concrete-slabs-and-floors/better-garage-floors.aspx]this is one of them[/url]), recommends "ACI goes further and recommends 4500-psi concrete for garages in the northern half of the country." and air-entrained concrete. The contractor suggested 4000-psi fiber-reinforced concrete instead for the slab. Thoughts?
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Jun 4, 2015 16:58
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Zhentar posted:If your garage is reasonably well insulated, and/or heated, you can give your footings a little insulated skirt, sticking out two feet and R-5, and effectively turn that 24" deep footing into something almost as good as 48". Four feet of R-10, and it'll be better than 48" deep. (citation) OK, the second image on that page has a footing that is just a plate with a wall on it. Is that preferred over a massive mass of concrete? Also, what about insulation under the concrete slab? I'll eventually have heat in this garage, but not for the first 3-5 years.
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Jun 4, 2015 21:13
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Thank you. I hope this is my last question for a while, but is it stupid to use Fox Blocks for the footing and just plain old rigid foam sheets for in-ground insulation? I mean, other than cost.
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Jun 6, 2015 02:54
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Concrete question: Building a garage, pouring the foundation, slab and driveway to it myself. I was thinking of pouring the driveway first, letting it sit for a month so I can get a concrete truck back to the garage so I can pour directly into the foundation without having to use a powered wheel barrel for transporting all the concrete. THEN I got to thinking... if I have a truck near the end of a driveway that has a trenched out foundation, will the truck cause the trench to collapse? SO THEN what I was thinking about pouring the quarter of the foundation directly in front of the driveway first, THEN doing the rest in a month. The driveway going to the garage is at a very slight angle down (losing maybe a foot or two over the 40 feet. Foundation is 4' deep and a foot thick, drive way is 10' x 40' x 4", slab is 30' x 26' x 4" per code. Truck is a 4 cubic yards of concrete and a trailer is 1.25 cubic yards. SO... how should I pout this?
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Jun 23, 2015 02:55
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I feel like I am missing something really obvious when trying to make a foundation for my garage. Local requirement are that I need a 40" deep 1' wide foundation around the perimeter. I dig, the walls crumble in in spots. I can put OSB sheets up to hold up the walls and brace each side against each other with a 4x4 wedged in place and lightly tamp the earth on both sides. But do I just leave the 4x4 in when I pour the concrete? I tried removing one and the walls on both sides wanted to collapse. Or should I just use stacks of pre-formed concrete blocks to brace? I am in Michigan, so the ground is basically sand after the first foot or two and in one corner I keep digging the dirt our that collapsed into the trench and ended up with a 6' wide hole.
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Sep 21, 2015 04:05
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A couple of quick questions: First off, I have a fuse panel. Can I add circuits at all or would I need to completely switch to circuit breakers? And if I replace the panel all together, all the circuits in the house have to be brought up to new/current code, correct? Way too much of the house is on only 2 circuits. If I legally can add a circuit but I can't find something (fuse or circuit breaker) can I add a breaker protected sub-panel? Nothing outrageous, just a 240v 20a) And for wired smoke detectors, does the circuit providing power have to be used for smoke detectors and smoke detectors only? United States, Michigan. Thanks
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Mar 16, 2019 01:59
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kid sinister posted:Talk to your city, or county if you live somewhere unincorporated. You will most likely need to switch to breakers. They would also know if you need to replace the wiring as well. Does your place have knob and tube? Thank you. And thankfully not knob and tube, but older romex-like wire. House was built in the 1960s.
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Mar 17, 2019 02:31
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