|
It is looking like we are going to buy a home that is going to need a bit of updating. Sellers aren't as inclined to fix as they are to take money off the purchase price of the home. Short list of "easy" stuff I want to get out of the way includes the crawlspace needing new insulation because a lot of it is torn. It is a vented crawlspace, which apparently makes a bit of difference in determining where the insulation would go. Currently its got the pink fiberglass stuff, but assuming I meet or beat the r-value (19 to 25), any tips on how to insulate this thing? Is there something other than fiberglass I should be looking at? I don't want to pay someone labor for grunt work like that.
KKKLIP ART fucked around with this message at 19:15 on Apr 27, 2020 |
#
¿
Apr 27, 2020 19:10
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 21, 2024 11:47 |
|
|
I want to talk paint. We are buying a house and all the walls in the house are the taupiest taupe that has ever existed. I keep seeing conflicting ideas on preparation and paint type. In the kitchen I know we are going to clean all the walls with TSP, but what about sanding the walls? Should I get a sanding pole and sand down all the walls? What grit should I use? Because the walls are lighter, what about priming? Any brand paint suggestions? We were thinking the Benjamin Moore Regal but are open to suggestions.
|
|
#
¿
May 23, 2020 16:57
|
|
|
Final Blog Entry posted:The TSP should only be necesaary if any walls of the kitchen are grimy or greasy from cooking. Dont bother sanding unless the existing paint is semigloss or shinier, just make sure they're clean and dry. Even then I'd probably just wipe down with a liquid deglosser instead unless it's like high gloss. Spot prime stains or patches as needed, full prime is generally a waste of time and money on previously painted interior walls unless you're going to or from something really dark or bright or the previous owners smoked in the house. Just do two coats of topcoat even if one looks ok, it will clean and touch up easier for you later. "One Coat" paint isn't a thing IMO, regardless of what any can says. "Paint and primer in one" is also marketing bullshit that Behr started years ago and then every other manufacturer had to follow suit. Paint is paint and primer is primer, if you need a primer for adhesion, stainblocking, etc., you need to use an appropriate primer. You'll do well with any of the better products from Ben Moore or Sherwin Williams. This is all good to know. I’m not sure the gloss level of the existing paint because it seems nobody has a consistent gauge on what is or isn’t. It’s probably eggshell but I’ll just do a deglosser just in case. Any specific recommendations on deglossers?
|
|
#
¿
May 23, 2020 17:34
|
|
|
I would 100% love a totally smooth finish but as stated nobody can really do drywall well here and I sure as hell cant so orange peel it is.
|
|
#
¿
May 23, 2020 18:51
|
|
|
We want to also paint the 60s as hell all wood cabinets where we are moving. So this is generally the process that I have found and y’all can tell me I am going to screw up super bad: 1. Disassemble doors and hardware and have a system to know what goes where for reassembly 2. Clean with a degreased / TSP really well, let dry 3. Sand with somewhere around 150 to 180, not going ham but taking the shiny finish off the surfaces, vacuum and tack cloth clean 4. Apply a good primer for kitchens (INSL-X prime lock?) with a foam roller, let totally dry and lightly sand with somewhere around 220 grit to smooth 4b. Apply second coat of primer if needed 5. First coat of paint with foam roller, let dry totally and lightly sand with 220ish grit 6. Second coat with foam roller, let totally dry 7. Reassemble Does this seem like a decent set We really hate super shiny, we got a sample of semigloss and really aren’t about that life. Would a satin be fine?
|
|
#
¿
May 25, 2020 13:44
|
|
|
Final Blog Entry posted:If you're buying somewhere that sells Insl-x I would use their Stix for cabinets. Great bonding primer. Wow, I'm glad that you mentioned the enamel aspect, nothing I saw mentioned it and I would have been super frustrated about going through that work and effort and it not lasting because it isnt an appropriate paint. If I cant find INSL-X, is there a decent secondary primer? I know that Kilz is sort of the big name brand. I am not sure the original cabinet type and I just see that Stix doesn't block tannin stains. KKKLIP ART fucked around with this message at 14:13 on May 25, 2020 |
|
#
¿
May 25, 2020 14:10
|
|
|
Currently they seem to be stained and they are a bit glossy, so some sort of poly finish maybe. I think we decided to do Behr Marquee for our interior walls, and it seems like the Benjamin Moore Advanced is the way to go for cabinets. KKKLIP ART fucked around with this message at 16:43 on May 25, 2020 |
|
#
¿
May 25, 2020 15:29
|
|
|
Slow drain in kitchen sink only but nothing in the trap, what’s a cheap starting point in trying to asses this?
|
|
#
¿
Jun 10, 2020 17:41
|
|
|
Not really a fix it fast kind of thing, but more of a "hey we just got new lawncare crap" kind of question. Lawnmower and weed-wacker are all 4 strokes. What is a good gas can for storage? I don't think we need a huge one since its a smaller 30cc weedwacker and a push mower.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 13, 2020 14:59
|
|
|
Samadhi posted:Get one like this: Yeah I ended up getting one similar to that. I had read that the stainless steel ones were the best, but I couldn't really justify 35+ on a gas can just yet.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 14, 2020 14:27
|
|
|
Y'all, I installed my new dishwasher today and it is glorious, but I want to get a "what the hell" shout out to Bosch for their cabinet screw tabs because the instructions are super unclear.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 18, 2020 03:12
|
|
|
H110Hawk posted:Well you see it's German and woo and it doesn't seem like it is sealing up on the top left of the door all the way and left a nice puddle on my kitchen floor (that I saw water coming out of) so now I'm scratching my head.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 18, 2020 03:45
|
|
congrats on joining the cult of Bosch dishwashers.
|
glynnenstein posted:Either direction should work. 90 degrees so it's perpendicular to the pipe. In fact, it may only turn 90° in one direction anyway.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 26, 2020 17:18
|
|
|
I am going to end up crossposting this in a couple of threads, but the home we purchased has some old florescent fixtures in the basement. One only fires up after the switch is on for like... an hour, and a separate one just doesn't turn on.The previous homeowner said they they thought it was either the ignitor or the ballast, but I just would rather replace them flat out. They appear to be 48" boxes. Is there a recommended LED replacement fixture? I'd like something warmer than daylight, maybe dimmable but not specifically required.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 29, 2020 15:41
|
|
|
eddiewalker posted:Buy whatever you get locally and with a good return policy because initial failure rate tends to be high. Yeah I did t want to get drop in LED tubes, just full on fixtures that happen to be LED.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 29, 2020 18:17
|
|
|
I need to replace a bathroom vanity but the whole wall is already tiled. The current vanity isn’t attached in any way to the wall. Any good way to make sure whatever we buy stays place?
|
|
#
¿
Jul 4, 2020 18:57
|
|
|
Slugworth posted:Attach it to the wall? Stud finder, masonry/porcelain bit, and a few screws will do you just fine. So stud finder will go through the tiles well enough? That is interesting. Easy enough.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 4, 2020 20:05
|
|
|
The Slack Lagoon posted:Any insight on Benjamin Moore paint lines? If we're looking to paint ourselves (we've painted one place before, so have some experience, but not a ton) should we go Regal Select or Aura? The Wirecutter has had the Regal Select at the top of their paint list, for what its worth.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 9, 2020 14:25
|
|
|
I need to paint my stairwell. What is the best way of doing it without killing myself? I tried an edger because we want the above the stairs to be an accent wall and the results look like crap and it would be better if I could either tape or cut by hand.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 24, 2020 17:32
|
|
|
Regular six foot ladder. I think I am just going to build a stair leveler. I have some spare 2x4s and 3/4 inch plywood in my shed. If i use 3 stairs worth of run, I can get my ladder there easily. I’ll have a spotter to make sure I don’t go tits up. Something like this unless you al see something I should change: KKKLIP ART fucked around with this message at 21:24 on Jul 24, 2020 |
|
#
¿
Jul 24, 2020 20:57
|
|
|
I am of the opinion that every ceiling electrical box should be fan rated (because it makes future me's life so much easier) unless it is in like, the hallway. I also had a bedroom with no fan, the box was between joists and attached to hopes and dreams. Couldn't quite get one of those extendable box jawns in the cut hole, so I ended up having to crawl in the attic to do it. And then the previous owner clipped the wires super short so there was that too. I am drat hear positive that both the bedrooms that have fans in them don't have fan boxes either and I just can't be bothered with doing that job again any time soon. I love ceiling fans but hate installing ceiling fans.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 30, 2020 14:45
|
|
|
SpartanIvy posted:Every time I make changes to wiring in my house I use 12/2 because gently caress undersized wiring to save pennies. I've already found 2 wires that had insulation burned away from a prior owner putting too many amps through stuff. At some point I'm replacing the fuse box with a breaker and I'm trying to get ahead of replacing all the wiring. As a part of closing we had the fuse box replaced and the electrician who did it was fine, but did the least work possible. We hired another to update our stove and wiring to 50 amps, add in a circuit for our washer and update our dryer to a 4 wire. The previous homeowners/electrician had separate 3 30 amp fuses somehow going to the stove on undersized wire and when he told me that I seriously made the  face. He clipped and pulled the wires, ran new cable, added in the 50 amp breaker and so far nothing else that is supposed to work isn’t working but like what the gently caress dude? At least they had AFCI/GFCI combo breakers installed on everything. Anyway that extra overhead is going to be great when I replace our shed and put electric there because I think 65 amps would be plenty.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 30, 2020 17:19
|
|
|
Is there a brand of home locks/deadbolts/door knobs that doesn’t 100% suck?
|
|
#
¿
Aug 28, 2020 16:18
|
|
|
H110Hawk posted:What is your goal? What is your problem statement? Why won't it be met with: New house, exterior knobs are a mishmash of stuff that is like a push button lock, double cylinder deadbolts, and just want to have nice hardware and matching new keys on all our outside doors.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 29, 2020 18:11
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 21, 2024 11:47 |
|
|
How easy is it to replace a range hood? Pretty sure mine just ate its fan.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 15, 2020 22:02
|
|