|
SkunkDuster posted:
The condenser can be replaced independently, but your indoor air handler is r22, and I understand replacement units are hard to come by, as that refrigerant has been phased out in favor of r410a. The installer will likely recommend replacing both units.
|
#
¿
Jun 5, 2014 04:00
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 22, 2024 02:57 |
|
|
Kilersquirrel posted:I do have the dog and cat on topspot treatments, but there are just too many ticks out there to be alright with just the treatment. Plus, I realistically can't go out in my yard for any extended amount of time without having to do a thorough tick check on myself afterwards now. They look like deer ticks too(black legs and no white markings of any kind on the back), which means Lyme disease is a concern as well.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 5, 2014 19:20
|
|
|
Zhentar posted:Mosquito trap efficacy varies significantly depending on particular circumstances. They'll certainly appear to be working, with piles of mosquito corpses, but they aren't always effective at reducing mosquito populations (and in some cases, they'll end up attracting more mosquitoes to bite you than you started with). The mosquito population last year was completely unbearable, and there was a large population of Asian Tiger mozzies which are terrible terrible critters. I bought a mosquito magnet, which took a bit to make a dent in the population but did definitely help. It came with Ocetenol attractant which worked great, but per the manufacturers recommendation for my area I switched to the Lurex 3, which was not nearly as effective. YMMV
|
|
#
¿
Jul 13, 2014 16:54
|
|
|
Designers like gently caress up by using colors that quickly become dated, though. Saw a brand new reno on HGTV with lavender sinks.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 2, 2014 14:44
|
|
|
Install two three way switches, so there's no way to accidentally hit the wrong one.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 11, 2014 05:36
|
|
|
Sleepytime posted:I'm looking for advice on frozen pipes. I have a pole barn that's on well water and whenever it gets below 10 degrees outside, the water stops working. My house is on city water and we haven't had issues with this, but it's too far to easily get water from the house to the barn. Unfortunately, if the water is freezing below ground, or your (supposed to be) frost-free hydrant isn't installed deeply enough, the only real solution is to rent a trencher (or pay someone) and install it deeper. I find it strange that you can't get the handle up, even with heat tape on it. I've had issues where the line itself was deep enough not to freeze, but the handle itself got moisture all over it and frozen...but the heat tape should really eliminate that. It must be frozen down at the valve. And yeah, your option of a larger stock tank is basically what we use to ride out bad weather/cold snaps/power outages. If you've got power at the barn, stick a heater or de-icer in there.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 9, 2018 23:11
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:First you need to find out if the entire thing is already grounded to neutral. That bracket that the socket is mounted to looks funny. Is the entire socket connected via metal to the neutral screw? On regular Edison bulb sockets, the outside screw ring is connected to neutral. What kind of bulbs does that thing take? GWBBQ posted:That looks like a bayonet-style base for the bulb, so it's grounded through neutral. Use a polarized plug and make sure it's wired with the hot to the smaller prong and neutral to the larger one.Also, you absolutely need strain relief and a grommet where the cord comes through the housing. .......... armorer posted:Thanks - I fixed it up yesterday and it actually had a three conductor cable originally, so I just rewired it the way it had originally been wired (ground to the housing). Whydoihavevoltageonmyground.txt
|
|
#
¿
Jan 16, 2018 21:27
|
|
|
armorer posted:No but really, neutral wasn't tied to the case, ground was. The cord on it was just not grounded and was quite a mess. I tested multiple possibilities with a multimeter. It was also kind of obvious when I saw a vestigial disconnected wire tied to the case though. Good deal, you have it covered! Edit - just to be sure, you toned/ohmed out that neutral wasn't also connected via the bulbholder? If you ohm out between the neutral and ground on the prongs of your new plug, there should be zero connection angryrobots fucked around with this message at 21:50 on Jan 16, 2018 |
|
#
¿
Jan 16, 2018 21:46
|
|
|
Motronic posted:I wouldn't try working on my only source of residential heat in the winter for the first time without someone to help who knows what's up. Yeah I agree, and in addition, there is the very real risk of fire even if you do know what you're doing.... Usually in a confined space you can't easily back away from.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 18, 2018 22:35
|
|
|
Gothmog1065 posted:Is there a guide out there for doing concrete in a small pond? Looking to follow the curvature of the existing pond and it's not straight edges. I know I'm going to need support wiring and all, but I'm not finding a good guide on how to made concrete on curved surfaces. There's basically no way to do this with forms. Do you live somewhere that gets a real winter? Because if so you'll have to engineer for frost heave, which basically means a lot of extra digging. Also I'm seeing quite a few step-by-step articles and videos on concrete pond building that I'm sure you saw too... If you're asking how to slap concrete over the existing pond as-is, I just don't know how well that's going to hold up.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 21, 2018 02:36
|
|
|
FogHelmut posted:I have these big 8' long flourescent lights in my garage. One bulb is burned out, and another is buzzing. I don't really want to replace them because I have to put an 8' long lightbulb in my car. And I don't even know how to throw the old ones out. Just break them? Don't break them, they're under pressure and it makes a huge mess. Find a dumpster. I like the LED tube replacements, and they're a lot cheaper on eBay. Just realize you'll have to rewire the fixtures, to take the ballast out of the circuit and put straight 120v across the pins of the light.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 22, 2018 22:35
|
|
|
cakesmith handyman posted:Whatever your local version of this is: What is this  dang Brits!Do you have to put fused switches on all hardwired devices or something? There's really no exact comparison to this in the states, closest would be a fused disconnect switch which is very unnecessary in this case (and probably illegal to install inside a cabinet). I'll let one of the resident electricians answer the actual question... My NEC knowledge gets fuzzy with residential installations and I'm not sure what's proper as regards having exposed Romex inside that cabinet...
|
|
#
¿
Jan 23, 2018 13:28
|
|
|
cakesmith handyman posted:Uh, kind of yeah, why wouldn't you want each individual appliance fused at its fault current Vs hoping the house wiring takes the load before the breaker trips? No I get it, that's just not used here. Being at the mercy of the small gauge wire inside a device has crossed my mind, but generally speaking, our methodology of protecting circuits to the wire size seems to work pretty well. ...That being said, everything is moving to AFCI so.... 
|
|
#
¿
Jan 23, 2018 13:45
|
|
|
DrBouvenstein posted:Do NOT just find a dumpster. Fluorescent bulbs are considered hazardous waste. Call your local/county waste department or whatever private company hauls your trash and ask them how to dispose of them. Oh yeah, you're right some states are very strict so watch that. At my local recycling center, they go in bulk waste (which on the handling end is all treated as HHW, apparently), or at least that's how I was directed.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 23, 2018 17:14
|
|
|
Lever nuts are pretty cool, but I've never had an issue with stranded wire in connections. If it's a mix, I twist the solids together, twist strandeds together, then put both under the nut. If it's a light fixture with that tiny stranded wire, I wrap that little bastard near the end of the conductor(s) so it catches in the tip of the wire nut, good and tight. The important thing in any situation is to use a wire nut that's appropriately sized for the number of conductors being connected. Don't force a too-small wire nut on and twist it till it bulges.... That's a good way to end up with a split wire nut and a short that's a pain the the rear end to find.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 2, 2018 13:52
|
|
|
Maybe they did some repairs and thought it was fixed? Basements develop leaks way more often than they tend to stay dry.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 12, 2018 02:10
|
|
|
mr.belowaverage posted:Hmm. If this was conventional timber framing or a newer house, I'd agree, but this masonry/jamb system is 128 years old with only slight deflection. I'm not sure that degree of restructuring is necessary in this case. I do know my way around structural repair and framing, but I am not a structural engineer so I could still be underestimating this problem. In the picture of the left side, is the masonry missing or cracked away under the header extension? It looks like it, and if so the weight that the header is bearing is not being distributed as intended, causing the trimmer studs to bow.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 19, 2018 04:47
|
|
|
mr.belowaverage posted:
The masonry is structural yes, but the purpose of the header is to distribute the load that would go into the gaping opening of the door, onto the brick on either side. It appears that the contact area of the header (on both sides but especially the left) has suffered cracking and missing masonry which someone, or many someones have attempted to shim up and mortar over the top of. I'm not a mason, but I would guess that the header was never big enough, and/or improperly tied into or supported by the masonry. (Edit- possibly the opening was enlarged at a later date to accommodate a taller door). If I understand your attempted fix diagram correctly, you intend to shim between the header and the trimmer board which is not intended to support point load in that manner, and will bow even more than it is already. It may be possible to properly support the existing header and tie it into the brick wall permanently, but I don't think that's a project to do based on internet advice (not from me anyhow). I would have someone look at that before it turns into a bigger problem. angryrobots fucked around with this message at 23:51 on Feb 19, 2018 |
|
#
¿
Feb 19, 2018 23:48
|
|
Header and head jamb under some inner brick wythe settling. This is a structural double-brick masonry wall. Most of the load is carried by the brick in this system, not the header. Exterior wythe is unsettled and solid.
|
tangy yet delightful posted:
Does the bar part of the muffler clamp have teeth? If not, if you're able to cut a few notches in with a grinder, that would help. Also yeah tighten the poo poo out of it. I don't think loctite will help - I doubt the nuts are loosening here, I would imagine they have "lockwasher" style teeth on their friction surface right?
|
|
#
¿
Mar 4, 2018 03:52
|
|
|
FogHelmut posted:Anyone ever make a concrete countertop? Can you use conventional sealer for granite, or does it have to be concrete specific? I know you can't use the stuff that's meant for outdoor patio. We used Behr stain/sealer for concrete, and then went over that with a concrete countertop wax.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 4, 2018 21:04
|
|
|
No poo poo. A concrete countertop is kind of like having a pet.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 4, 2018 23:03
|
|
|
FogHelmut posted:Then what's the point? I thought it was supposed to be some kind of economical alternative to granite. It's a hell of a lot cheaper than getting custom cut granite my man. Same care routine, but can also be repaired infinitely if damaged. devicenull posted:We poured epoxy on top so we didn't have to wet-sand everything. My wife said she considered this, but building forms on the sides to keep the epoxy from dripping seemed intimidating. How'd you deal with that? She also mentioned that the epoxy is pretty easy to damage with heat, any issue there with it? angryrobots fucked around with this message at 23:12 on Mar 4, 2018 |
|
#
¿
Mar 4, 2018 23:09
|
|
|
What if you have the air gap, but mr. mouse crawls up the pipe between there and the PRV? "Ah, but everyone tests their PRV monthly, which is why we need the air gap to verify PRV function" you'll say
|
|
#
¿
Mar 8, 2018 05:52
|
|
|
If you (turn off the power first) pull out the outlet and find it has a circuit feeding off the "load" terminals - first take that loose, reinstall, turn the power on and see if it will reset.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 8, 2018 23:23
|
|
|
Motronic posted:The air gap is supposed to be after a straight section of pipe with no threads on the end. Anything stuck in there is likely to blow right out. You could say the same thing about a water heater against an exterior wall, where the drain goes directly outside with a short section of pipe. So far as I can tell, the air gap requirement exists because inspectors don't like to walk.  Even better than all of this, is having a thermal expansion tank installed properly, even if it isn't a closed system. That way, a lot of poo poo has to fail before the PRV would have to kick in.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 9, 2018 02:30
|
|
|
Bad Munki posted:I think like 150 is the residential norm? Jfc your street pressure is 250psi? You need like...an auto shut off valve triggered by a pressure sensor.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 9, 2018 05:04
|
|
|
I had some shingles blow off in a thunderstorm and cause an immediate leak, so I called a roofer to schedule having the roof done before I even called insurance (first house, I didn't know). When the adjuster came out, the old roof was already off, but I did have some pictures of the missing tabs. They cut me a check on the spot. Another house, years later, I made the mistake of not inspecting the roof after a hailstorm, then changed insurance companies. Had a leak, so I called a roofer and they informed me of hail damage. I actually knew the date of the storm because I had tires delivered via UPS and they were stuck in my driveway waiting for the storm to pass, so I was able to remember that and look up the date. Had to call my old insurance company, because they were covering me at the time of the damage. The adjuster claimed there was no hail claim here, only footfall damage. .... Right I didn't fight it, just had minimal repairs done and waited. Hurricane Matthew came along a few months later and finished it off, and I got a metal roof put on for about $500 out of pocket after insurance.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 14, 2018 12:45
|
|
|
Phanatic posted:I want to replace my range hood because it's a useless Kenmore POS and barely moves air, but at least it's very loud so you can tell it's on. It's a ducted hood, and checking the outside it looks like the vent cover predates the range hood itself by at least 20 years. Can I therefore assume that the ducts for these things are more or less standard and that if I get another ducted hood to replace it with I probably won't have to go cutting any brick to accommodate a different duct form? "More or less" is about as much as you can expect, from the two I've changed out. Also expect that the old hood will have been attached badly, in a way that is very leaky. I used the foil-backed HVAC duct tape on the exterior to seal everything up nice and tight. If I ever do this again (or build my own house), I'm going full commercial style with a rooftop mounted fan.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 19, 2018 16:19
|
|
|
This is the closest to "DIY Chat" as threads go so I wanted to pass along that Lowe's is doing 10% off for all Lowe's cardholders, today and tomorrow. There's also some promotional thing in appliances where some stuff is 30% off. We're in the middle of remodeling my wife's old house to put on the market, so I'm probably about to spend on some major $$ purchases for the project. angryrobots fucked around with this message at 17:24 on Mar 30, 2018 |
|
#
¿
Mar 30, 2018 17:21
|
|
|
If you've been disposing of drippings for 6 months, ya don't have a lot of argument. Suck it up and don't put grease down the drain in the future.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 6, 2018 17:45
|
|
|
Shame Boner posted:I can only venture a guess. For me at my current place, the drain line was drat near horizontal and wasn't supported well. When the drain line became heavy with clog material, it sagged a little between supports, exacerbating the problem. Same, but like 40' I had to cut out. Not what I wanted to deal with only a few weeks after moving in. Or ever.  
|
|
#
¿
Apr 7, 2018 04:22
|
|
|
Drywall screws are not PremiumSupport. I would use wood screws of an appropriate length and head size. Make sure they are either fully threaded, or the shank is no longer than the drywall depth so the threads can catch all the wood they can.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 10, 2018 16:32
|
|
|
PremiumSupport posted:Maybe you missed it, but there is no drywall, the OP say's it's been cut away. OP has ~2 inches of wood that is being screwed straight into, and normally I agree a proper screw should be sought out. In this case however any course-thread screws with an inch of thread in the wood will be overkill given the total 45lb weight load. Testy testy! Drywall screws are not for hanging anything but drywall - they're made of brittle steel that will snap if shock loaded. Ask anyone who actually hangs drywall how many they wring off. Anyhow I stand by the point that I was making. Ensure that the fastener used is fully threaded. OP I know you were asking about using (I think) a concrete anchor and lag bolts through the whole thing and that's probably sturdy but not really how that was designed to be used?
|
|
#
¿
Apr 10, 2018 20:01
|
|
|
Make sure to get a utility locate!
|
|
#
¿
Apr 24, 2018 17:24
|
|
|
JFC I'm itching just from reading that
|
|
#
¿
Apr 27, 2018 22:41
|
|
|
lifts cats over head posted:I just bought a house about 2 months ago and already I've had to change at least 8 lightbulbs, but all different. The previous owners had the correct watt bulbs from what I can tell and I've been replacing them with the correct bulbs. I've started keeping track of when I change them to see how long they last. At this point I'm thinking it can't be a coincidence that this many bulbs are burning out right after we bought the house. Could there be something wrong with the wiring or circuit breaker? Any suggestions on how to test this on my own without calling an electrician? I would definitely check voltage first, it could be too high or too low. Or it could just be coincidence... Generally speaking light bulbs are far more tolerant of bad voltage than anything with a circuit board.
|
|
#
¿
May 2, 2018 00:50
|
|
|
H110Hawk posted:Unsure on: I thought "French door' usually meant one with the two upper doors, and the freezer drawer below? You mean "French door" vs "side by side" maybe? Although it looks like Samsung and Haier have a French door configuration now with 4 doors. I definitely would prefer this to a freezer drawer I think. Seems like it would be the same thing as a side by side but with less space though? 
|
|
#
¿
May 6, 2018 15:28
|
|
|
Are you self-installing or have you received a sales pitch from a third-party installer?
|
|
#
¿
May 10, 2018 17:33
|
|
|
*From what I've heard personally from people in the southeast* you have to take their (the salesman pitching this) payback projections with a huge grain of salt. We've also seen a lot of shady business practices, like companies changing their name yearly, and the "3 year warranty" evaporating. Also realize that the future of the economics of how utilities buy back energy is subject to change, while your loan payment will stay the same. Currently most utilities buy back solar at the same rate they sell kwh at, because it's still a marginal enough amount that they can absorb the loss, and it's good PR. But "buy high and sell high" is not tenable forever...
|
|
#
¿
May 10, 2018 22:15
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 22, 2024 02:57 |
|
|
That's not a "newer" thing, the 24v transformer has (edit: should have) a fuse protecting it. Sometimes it keeps the transformer alive in the event of a fault, sometimes it doesn't.
|
|
#
¿
May 20, 2018 02:43
|
|