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Deacon of Delicious posted:I need suggestions for getting around not having a router. I'll have a rectangular hole in a piece of wood, and I need to make recessions on two of the sides for a mounting plate. The recessions need to be about 2"x1/2"x1/3". I don't have a router and I don't know anyone who does, and all I need are these two little recessions. The only thing I can think of is carefully using a sanding block or a file. Anyone have any ideas? How about using a chisel? If you don't have a chisel and don't care what it looks like, use a screwdriver like a chisel?
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Jan 19, 2008 18:07
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poeticoddity posted:Also, do you know if there are any propellants or other chemicals common in spray paints which would damage styrene? Yes, spray paint will melt it. You can paint it with regular latex paint first, and then spray paint on that. That is what I did when I made tombstones out of styrofoam for halloween. It worked well.
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Jan 24, 2008 23:17
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Milka posted:Would there be any interest in this forum for a vegetable gardening megathread? Now's the time to start thinking about ordering seeds and setting up for spring planting/transplanting. I think I could put together a decent OP. Yes! I've always wanted to start a garden from seed, but wasn't sure where to get everything. Also, if you have any tips trellises for climbing veggies, that would be great.
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Jan 28, 2008 13:14
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MrChupon posted:
How do you know it is wired into the ceiling? Did you take off/apart? Sometimes there is a battery, but it is very hard to see. MrChupon posted:If it's just poo poo the bed, is it difficult/dangerous for a layman to replace a smoke alarm thats wired into the house like that? If so, who do I call, an electrician? The fire department? It is possible that it took a dump. And no, it is not difficult at all to replace. Just go to a home center (like Home Depot) and get a replacement. Since it is wired to the house, the wire connected to it will be live. Just turn off the breaker for it (or if you can't figure that out, turn off the breaker for the whole house) and then use a circuit tester to make sure the wire has no current going to it before you take everything apart. If you want someone else to do it, then you can get an electrician to do it. MrChupon posted:Any other ideas for what it might be? It's just random, like 3-5 beeps, 15 seconds apart each, then nothing. Never more than once or twice a day. Does it have a brand name/model number? If so, try searching online for a product manual. If you can't find one, take the brand/model number to your local home center and see if they have the same thing. If so, see if you can open the box and read the manual that comes with it. That weird beeping really sounds like a low battery warning to me.
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Feb 6, 2008 14:16
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Is it just the knob that is spinning, or id the stem spinning also? If it is just the knob, you may be able to to take it off and grab the stem with some pliers to turn the water back on.
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Feb 22, 2008 13:26
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Some radiators/pipes have shut off valves where the pipe connects to the radiator. Make sure yours are open all the way. And to bleed the radiator, you should keep the screw open until water starts coming out (make sure that the heat is running so water is being circulated). But she may be correct in that it may take a couple days to get all the air out, but you should start to see (feel) results pretty quickly.
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Feb 22, 2008 21:55
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Clayton Bigsby posted:
I would guess that the end of the PVC is threaded (no compression nut) and that the petcock screws into it. I agree with kapalama - 5 is not necessary. The air will work itself out. kapalama posted:
I use a nail to pop the pin out. Put the nail under the pin and tap with a hammer. Once you get it started (and if the nail isn't long enough) you can then use a flathead screwdriver on the underside of the lip of the pin. Tap the screwdriver with the hammer to get the rest of the pin out.
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Jun 23, 2008 12:49
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BrokenDynasty posted:In my new house I have ceiling fans in each room with three 40W bulbs mounted in each. I would like to install dimmer switches for the lights in each room, but leave the fans on an on/off switch (so that they can be on at full power when the lights are dimmed). Yes, it is easily doable, and yes, replacing the two switches with a dimmer switch will create a problem. I think something like this is what you are looking for. There are also one that are remote controls too.
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Sep 29, 2008 14:51
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STFU Pumpkinhead posted:The water temp in our shower fluctuates greatly. It's a single-knob Moen control that will stay hot for 5-6 minutes, go frigid for 2 minutes, and then return to hot. This cycle will go on until the hot water heater is drained. It's possible you have a piece of debris floating around in the valve mechanism. See if you can take it apart and try flushing out the valve.
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Jan 3, 2009 14:49
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ZentraediElite posted:He didn't put in a new box, I live in a building with terrible wiring and he pulled it out to replace the connection at the plate. Unfortunately after he screwed everything back in it just popped right back out. Is it basically a small hole in the wall where the cable comes out of to attach to the faceplate? If so, go get some small drywall anchors for where the screws go into the wall. If the cover screws onto a box, try sticking a piece of toothpick into the hole so the screw has something to grab.
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Feb 20, 2009 00:23
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Danger Mahoney posted:My trouble comes from whoever built this house using nonstandard wire colors. Does your thermostat book have a technical assistance/customer support number you can call? I put in a Honeywell thermostat, and it had a pretty comprehensive color coding chart. It also said that if the chart doesn't cover the configuration you have to call them for help.
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Jul 1, 2009 04:33
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Wuhao posted:So I was trying to change the door handle on my front door. This went REALLY loving WELL. The long and the short of it is that the lock has been changed, but I managed to gently caress up both my original door handle, AND my new one, AND put the screws for the door jambs in and out so many times that they no longer thread in -- they just sort of push in and out. A really easy solution for helping screws stick in a hole is to stick some toothpicks or a Q-tip in the hole (cut the ends off of the Q-tip).
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Jul 3, 2009 13:04
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LoreOfSerpents posted:What kind of flooring would you put in a (dry) basement living space? I'm redoing my basement at the moment, and ripped out the carpeting that the previous owners had. I know the carpet was there for years and the basement got flooded from heavy rains a couple of times. When I ripped it up, there wasn't any mold or mildew. As for the new floor, my wife is deciding between hardwood flooring or resilient flooring. If we go the hardwood route, then I'll be putting down dricore (http://www.dricore.com) first and the wood floor over that. Dricore is available at Home Depot and Lowes. Resilient flooring is vinyl, but can look like anything (we're looking at some that looks almost exactly like wood). It is a floating floor (you don't glue it down) and comes in strips (like a wood floor) that stick together. We're also considering tile. It depends on whatever HGTV home remodeling show my wife watched that day...
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Jul 24, 2009 01:03
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I had the same issue with multiple doors in my house. When doors are installed, at least one of the screws is supposed to be replaced with a longer screw (like 3"), but no one ever does it. This is to tie the frame of the door to the framing of the house. Over time, the shorter screws slip a bit, and you get the issue that you have now. Try replacing the screws that hold the top hinge to the frame with longer screws. When you screw the screw in, you probably won't notice any difference until you close the door.
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Jan 8, 2013 14:22
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peepsalot posted:I want to build a thing out of (probably polystyrene) foam panels like the blue or pink panels you find at a hardware store. I plan to cut out shapes on a number of sheets using a hot wire and glue these layers together to form the complete shape. What would be a good glue between these panels, and once the shape is assembled what would be a good way to seal and paint it. I think many paints and glues will dissolve polystyrene. Latex paint will seal the polystyrene. I made Halloween tombstone decorations out of styrofoam insulation, painted them first with latex paint, and then was able to spray paint words and designs on them (if I didn't coat them with latex paint first, the spray paint would've dissloved the styrofoam). After you coat them with latex paint, I would think that regular glue (e.g. Elmers) would work fine.
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Feb 6, 2013 15:17
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lord1234 posted:Try drilling the holes out. Glue in a piece of dowel rod and screw into that. Another possible option - instead of fixing the stripped holes, can you move the runners an inch to the left or right and drill new holes?
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Mar 4, 2013 14:25
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stubblyhead posted:I did Since the trim is not on yet, can't you dig out the foam in the problem areas with a screwdriver, drywall saw, steak knife, etc?
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Mar 18, 2013 18:01
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There's like six kinds, and I'm honestly not sure which flavor I grabbed. The frame is fixed to the studs, but the interior trim is not up. It's a fiberglass door so I don't think planing the face will work. I'll try to figure out where the narrow spots are and try pulling it in some with additional screws. And I'll be sure to grab the right stuff next time I put one in.
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ntd posted:Any gadgets or anything I should look at? My wife wants one of the paint rollers that stores paint in the stick, they have very mixed reviews so any goon experience would be great. It looks like most of the tools for cutting in are worthless, based on reviews. Does the brand/grade roller cover really matter? Are the 14 or 18" (vs 9) rollers worth investigating? Get a painter's tape dispenser (something like http://kk.org/cooltools/archives/698). It makes taping around trim so easy. It depends on the height/size of your walls, but you may want to look at getting a 24" roller. I used that on a room that had a vaulted ceiling and it really sped things up. Your arms will be sore after using it though. Whenever you open/use a new roller, rub some tape over it to remove the excess fuzz.
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Mar 20, 2013 13:17
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snickles posted:My wife wants a fountain in the garden. My understanding is that to do this correctly, I really need an electrician to come and install a buried power cable to the fountain, correct? No, you can do this yourself. Depending on your area, you may or may not need a permit. http://www.familyhandyman.com/electrical/outdoor-lighting/how-to-install-outdoor-lighting-and-outlet/step-by-step describes the process for a light/outlet (and has pictures), but your application is almost the same. Just remember - you need to use UF cable (it's gray) for burial. You can't bury NM cable (e.g. Romex).
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Jun 2, 2013 14:28
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Daggerpants posted:Wife came back from the allergist and due to the kid's allergies they suggested we remove all of the carpet on the second level (first is already all hardwood). So I'm looking at about 1000 square feet that I'm going to be doing myself. From what I'm reading I'm leaning toward nailed down engineered wood with a decent sound barrier. Anyone have any advice on the subject for someone who's never done it before? It really is as easy as it looks. I did 1000 sq. ft in a previous house by myself (was also my first time). It took me 6 and 1/2 days working 12 hours/day just so you know what you are in for. After the first day, it gets really mind numbing. Some tips that I learned: - make sure the first row is straight. The rest of the floor follows this line. - buy an air compressor, and maybe the nail gun/staple gun. For the price of renting a compressor, you can get a get a combo deal that has the compressor, trim gun, and another gun or two. - get an oscillating saw to cut the trim on door jambs. Depending on how many doorways you have, using a jamb saw gets old quick. - if you are planning on reusing the baseboard and shoe molding, label each piece as you take them off so you know where they go when you reinstall them. - I got my flooring from Lumber Liquidators, and they had a really good price. The flooring also came with directions and tips for installation. - buy good underlayment - it really does make a big difference. The stuff I used almost looked like carpet padding. - when you are tired or frustrated, stop. The little mistake you make won't seem like a big deal until you have the floor done. The imperfection/mistake will stick out like a sore thumb. - every box has pieces that aren't as nice as the others. Save those pieces for closets or hidden areas. good luck!
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Jun 6, 2013 15:42
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BoyBlunder posted:What's the minimum amount of snow that needs to be on the ground for a snowblower to be useful? Or is this snowblower dependent? I think it is snowblower dependent. I have a two stage that I don't bring out until it is 4" or more. My neighbor has a single stage that he'll use in anything.
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Jan 19, 2014 12:48
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sbyers77 posted:The previous owner of our house had an alarm system that I am removing. Under where the keypad was next to the front door (instead of a small hole for the wiring) there is a small cut-out about 1" x 2". I would make a patch out of a piece of drywall. Basically, you cut and peel away the back side of the drywall. Since a picture is worth 1000 words, look at http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-patch-drywall-or-fix-a-hole-in-sheetrock/?lang=de Specifically, the second picture. One tip - when I do this, I try to square off the hole as much as possible, but it sounds like you already have that. Home Depot or Lowes sells drywall pieces (not the whole sheet) for a couple of bucks.
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Mar 4, 2014 19:10
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Bad Munki posted:Also, for the trimmer head, get one of those heads that has three arms and a swivel on the end of each one, through which you fish about 12" of standard trimmer string, bent in half at the swivel. They're awesome. No need to buy the precut lengths: just buy a regular coil of trimmer string, cut it into a few dozen 12" lengths, and when you go out to trim, stick a few in your pocket. NTT posted:I sold those heads when I worked at Lowe's. They're kickass. Do either of you remember the name/brand of it?
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Apr 14, 2014 13:56
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Bad Munki posted:Ah, actually, I don't know why I couldn't find it last time, but here's the one I have, it popped right up in my search today: Awesome, thanks!
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Apr 14, 2014 15:03
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eddiewalker posted:I want to build a self-standing wooden shed on the flat concrete pad under my deck. 8ft by 8ft footprint, 6 feet tall. I'd like the structure to be butted right up against the foundation of the house, but I think I'll need to initially construct it at least 2-3 feet away from the house so I can attach wooden siding and paint for longevity. Don't use the trailer wheel jack. I moved an 8x8 chicken coop (weighed close to 2000 lbs) across an uneven yard, going uphill, and also rotated it 90 degrees. Jack up the shed (I used a car jack) and slide 3" pvc pipes underneath it. I used 4 pipes, but you could use 3, and maybe even get away with 2. Since you're on a concrete pad, it'll move easily.
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Jul 15, 2014 14:42
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Does anyone know where I can find this type of screw: I tried Lowes and Radio Shack. Neither had anything remotely close. It's for a Garmin GPS mount. I contacted Garmin, but they said that they couldn't help. emanonii fucked around with this message at 14:16 on Aug 20, 2014 |
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Aug 20, 2014 14:14
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kid sinister posted:I used to work for a fastener company. That looks similar to a truss head screw, but that's definitely something custom made. Are the threads metric or US? No clue (and I know that it is important). Thanks for the info (you and eddiewalker).
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Aug 21, 2014 11:47
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CzarChasm posted:Gutter question Try raising the opposite end first. It could be that side sagged. As for what to use to hold it on place, these work well: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Amerimax-Home-Products-5-in-Hidden-Hanger-with-Screw-21812/100085356 You don't need to pre drill the hole either.
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Jun 28, 2016 18:46
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CharlieWhiskey posted:I'm borrrowing and trailering a Toro Timecutter 5060 (zero turn radius, 50" deck) to the new house. Where are the best places for ratchet straps on a Toro ztr to keep the mower safe and in place? Just went and looked at mine. For the front, I'd use the arms where the front wheels attach, and for the back, either put the strap over each rear wheel or anywhere on the frame. You may also want to lower the deck so it doesn't bounce around.
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Jul 21, 2017 16:02
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Alarbus posted:It's more to buy, but I've used a submersible pump in a spare brew bucket full of ice water. Was just going to suggest the same thing about the pump and bucket. I use this pump https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0018X2XT4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Feb 22, 2018 15:34
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Medullah posted:Heeyyyyy so due to my own stupidity I screwed in this screw to the drywall without an anchor because I was in a hurry and thought it was a stud. It sunk into the wall and it's in just tight enough that my magnetic screwdriver won't hold onto it enough to pull it back out. I want to pull it out, put an anchor in and then do it right but for the life of me I can't get it out. Any recommendations? Depending on how long the screw is, can you just push it further into the wall so it falls into the wall cavity?
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Mar 26, 2019 15:06
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