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MeKeV posted:The problem I've got is I'm limited to 2.5m from ground to the highest point over all, and a door I've been eyeing up is 2075mm high plus about 30mm for a sill which doesnt leave me a great deal of space for floor and roof structure. The last one is the best option, but run all your ceiling joists all the way out your cantilevered roof section like you have the two end joists shown. If you want a solid wall there, add blocking between the joists. Much simpler and stronger construction. Running some 2x6 (or whatever your joists are) blocking perpendicular to the joists in the bays between them every few feet-this keeps the joists from tipping over and ties them all together. To attach the metal roof, either deck the roof with plywood and fasten to that, preferably into the joists, or run battens (I think purlin is actually the term) perpendicular to the joists and screw the roof to that. Since the wall isn't really load-bearing and it's just a shed, you shouldn't need a header over the door. A header's job is to transfer the weight above it around the door opening and back down the studs framing the door-you have no weight above the door, so you don't really need one.You may want to add some perpendicular blocking on the wall with the door if you can to stiffen it up a bit, but plywood sheathing should do that anyway.
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Jun 1, 2018 23:33
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MeKeV posted:Will running the ceiling joists right through not be too much weight on the opening (4' 5") with just the double top plate over the door (2x4s)? Or does tying all the roof deck members together spread the load out enough.
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Jun 5, 2018 01:24
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Poplars are good but don't really spread much and tend to grow straight up. If you're in the delta or other good rich bottomland soil, both elms and hackberries grow very fast and produce a wide, spreading shape, and have nice yellow fall color. You will also have a happier, healthier tree that will grow faster if you wait to plant it until winter-our hot wet summers and dry falls are the most stressful times to plant a tree, and it isn't going to do much growing this year anyway. When you plant, make sure you cut some of the roots around the outside of the container and break up the rootball and dig a big wide hole.
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Jul 7, 2018 22:55
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BonoMan posted:Ah the extension service! How did I not think of that? (I went to MSU)
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Jul 15, 2018 04:05
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wesleywillis posted:Beuller? Beuller? Beuller?
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Aug 3, 2018 20:13
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Thirding real Sherwin Williams, not the Sherwin Williams you get at Lowe’s. I would power wash the whole house before painting if you haven’t already done so-getting all the dust and dirt and grime off really helps with adhesion. You don’t need to prime the entire house, but do spot prime any areas where bare wood is showing with actual primer. Primer is really good at sticking to whatever is below it and making a good surface for paint to stick to, but it’s not that great at resisting the elements. Paint is really good at resisting the elements and not so incredible at sticking to things. It’s always seemed to me that one product trying to do both those things is going to involve some compromises.
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Aug 18, 2018 19:06
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Foam backer rod (or even that black foam you insulate pipes with cut to the right width so you don't have to buy 100' roll of backer rod) and Loxon caulk from Sherwin Williams is made for basically exactly this.
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Aug 29, 2018 01:04
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Cement doesn’t stick to itself very well and can be especially difficult and crack prone when it’s put on in a thin layer. The quickrete technical people are very helpful in my experience-you might call them to ask for a product recommendation. You definitely need to make sure the top of old stoop is clean, and I’d even rough it up some by knocking some chips out with a chisel and hammer to expose some aggregate for the new cement to bond to mechanically. They also make concrete bonding adhesive you paint on the old concrete first that might help. And make sure you don’t build the concrete up so high you can’t open the door. Keeping the water off the stoop and away from the door in the first place with an awning or overhang or something overhead might be a better long-term solution but also potentially much more complicated depending on your roof etc.
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Sep 11, 2018 18:07
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They probably have small 2’x2’ pieces of 1/4” MDF or plywood that would work about as well
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Sep 12, 2018 17:16
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It’s very possible the joist was cracked when the house was built. If you sister a 2x8 over it with wood glue or construction adhesive it’ll be fine. A bunch of nails is probably as strong or stronger than through bolting it, so just do whichever is easier or both.
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Oct 8, 2018 13:32
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H110Hawk posted:That's what we did, but only after we realized there was a plume of cement dust wafting over the fence for the third day in a row. It's upsetting to my 3 year old that he can't play outside, it's upsetting to us because he's huffing cement dust. Day 1 it was sorta just "crazy neighbor is doing something over there let's go inside it's nearly bath time anyways." The next day it was "I should really figure out what the hell he's doing to make sure that isn't like lead paint he's grinding or something." There's doing a quick project, and there is being inconsiderate to the kid you can hear chattering away and running around next door.
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Jun 5, 2019 19:47
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FogHelmut posted:I should build a 4'x4' kid's playhouse to residential building code, correct? If it is has power or water, you should probably do those to code if you can. Jerry Cotton posted:If a painter leaves some big sheets of OSB (used to cover the windows when he took the panes away to be painted) in your garage for two years, is it OK to just consider them yours?
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Jun 8, 2019 17:44
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Anyone with a mig welder can fix that permanently in 5 minutes for $10. Look for a muffler shop or any metal fabrication shop. Epoxy miiiiight work but I’d just get it fixed right once so it doesn’t break again and cause your wife to hate you even more. E:fb
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Jun 11, 2019 20:03
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Motronic posted:If you've had luck with WD40, imagine how much more you'd have if you picked up a can of penetrating oil. Apparently other people know about this too: https://www.google.com/amp/s/oppositelock.kinja.com/make-your-own-kick-rear end-penetrating-oil-1739690558/amp
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Jun 16, 2019 20:56
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there wolf posted:What kind of drill? Do I need an impact driver or a hammer drill or something else all together?
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Jun 25, 2019 22:19
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https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW235...ps%2C165&sr=8-4 Strong enough to break your hand, and made in the US. They're pretty good for $99. E: nm you're in the UK so I dunno what's available there. Makita makes good corded drills too
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Jun 27, 2019 00:34
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Guyver posted:Yeah I figured that the motor was bad I was just hoping. Oh well a new motor is half what a good shape used washer is so unless I can find one cheap looks like this washer's getting stacked on the parts pile in the back yard.
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Jul 27, 2019 19:00
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Whichever way you go, if you are doing any color matching, make sure you get color corrected bulbs. I know they’re available in fluorescent tubes, and I assume so in LED too. They are full spectrum and show colors much more accurately/closer to daylight than most bulbs do, and it can make a huge difference in how a color appears. On the money side, you can get a whoooole lot of replacement t8 bulbs for the price of a new LED fixture-I’d probably wait until the ballast in the fluorescent fixture died and then replace the whole fixture with an LED fixture designed for LEDs instead of trying to shoehorn LEDs into a fluorescent fixture for all the reasons listed above. Doesn’t hurt that LEDs in three years are going to be even more exponentially better than they were three years ago.
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Aug 5, 2019 04:48
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Curiosity posted:Quick question... if I turn off my window unit ac does it close off airflow from outside?
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Aug 13, 2019 03:45
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Drilling brick or mortar or even concrete block with a plain non-hammer drill and a good masonry bit isn't usually hard. If it's old soft brick, it's even easier. Drilling into old, hard, high PSI concrete without a hammer drill can be about impossible, however.
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Aug 21, 2019 02:35
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Ripoff posted:Hi kids, I'm trying to build a deck without killing myself and my few friends that I have! My deck design is a simple free-standing 24' x 12' rectangle with cantilevered joists and cantilevered beams, and I'm trying to figure out the best way to butt the 24' rim joist section to the deck as my 12' joists end smack-dab in the center of where a railing post will be. So, I thought the better idea would be to butt the joists at 8' intervals (having 3 separate 2 x 10" boards showing on the rim joist) rather than have the rim joist butt right over where the center railing post would be. How high off the ground is this deck? If its more than 2' or so, I would check with your local building inspection authority and see if you need a permit and get them to look at the drawings. They can answer this question better for your local situation than strangers on the internet.
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Aug 25, 2019 18:54
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Jaded Burnout posted:Mm. In the UK anything more than 30cm needs planning permission. Looking it up, it appears in the US (and local codes obviously vary) you don't need a permit if it is less than 30" above grade, doesn't attach to the house, and isn't outside the primary exit of the house.
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Aug 25, 2019 19:12
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melon cat posted:Just painstakingly cut some wood down to size, glue it in, and "start over"? Drilling it out bigger and putting a dowel in like SpartanIvy suggested will work, but because of the grain directions it is not nearly as strong a repair as a properly installed dutchman.
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Sep 19, 2019 00:24
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:Quick question: If you have the capability to half lap the 4x4's that will be stronger in every way than the other options. Sister 2x's on between the 4x's if you want, but really not necessary. Just stringers is actually plenty-stairs built on stringers are surprisingly strong because of leverage and stuff and don't need much support as long as the bottom and top can't move laterally. They are basically a wedge and as long as both ends are constrained they probably aren't going anywhere.
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Oct 4, 2019 03:44
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I don't know if there's a pest control thread hiding in Pet Island or something, but fleas have invaded one section only of my bathroom. They hang out between the toilet and the sink (I guess because that's where the bathmat is) and I have no idea where they are actually coming from. My house is old and half termite eaten so there are innumerable tiny places they could crawl through that I'll never seal up. I have no pets. There may have been something living in the crawlspace under the house, but I got under there yesterday and put up some hardware cloth and fixed the lattice in the area. I did not get swarmed by fleas while I was under the house, so I'm not sure that's even where they're coming from. I kill a bunch of them in the morning and then they respawn while I'm at work, kill a bunch when I get home, and then they respawn overnight. I've sprayed some deltamethrin around the perimeter of the room and any penetrations in the floor/wall, but they keep coming back. This happened once a few years ago when I know some creature was living under there, but I can't remember what I did then. They may have gone away when the furry beast went away. Any ideas? Have already considered borrowing a dog on flea meds for a few days as a trap for them. Flea bomb daily until all the little fuckers are dead? I don't have the time to run a flea circus or I would consider giving them gainful employment instead of gassing them with extreme prejudice. Am willing to put them up for adoption to any interested parties who will come collect them.
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Oct 5, 2019 00:40
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Paul MaudDib posted:I need a second desk for a PC downstairs, I'm thinking of doing the standard reddit thing of slapping an ikea countertop on some shelves or something. The veneered one is walnut, and while the materials do probably cost more than the beech, especially for what looks like very thick (1/8", 1/40" is standard veneer, 1/16" or 1/10" is normally considered very thick veneer) veneer, they can also just sell it for more because its ~walnut~ and walnut is hot right now and your wife/design blog/pinterest wants it. The manufacturing is also more involved for veneering something like that, but I think it's mostly that people are willing to pay more for a trending walnut thing. melon cat posted:Stairs question. I have these spiral stairs going up to our attic:
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Oct 25, 2019 03:30
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Yoruichi posted:Hello. I was recently moving furniture back into a room with wooden floors after finishing some painting, and, as you do, was giving the wooden furniture a clean with some Pledge furniture polish. And I thought, huh, I scuffed up these floorboards a bit, I'll polish them too. So I Pledge'd the floorboards around where I was sitting. Thank god I stopped there, because this treatment has turned that corner of my lounge into an ice rink. The floorboards are now incredibly slippery; a literal deathtrap for anyone wearing socks. Help me SA, what should I do?
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Nov 13, 2019 13:50
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me your dad posted:These couple of comments are a relief so far. I was expecting to get told that I am hosed. Wood filler is going to look like something bad happened and you tried to fix it and draw attention to the area. Color it in with a touch up pen or honestly magic marker (a hair too dark is always better than too light) and stand back and squint at it. You’re not trying to make it look new because those floors are definitely old, you just don’t want it to stand out. Brown Old English furniture touch up polish/scratch remover may help if a touch up pen doesn’t work. E: the yellowed/whitish areas are areas where the finish has wrinkled. If the touch up pen doesn’t seem to be doing much, you might scrape the loose wrinkled finish off lightly with a razor blade and using the touch up pen on the bare wood. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 20:58 on Nov 13, 2019 |
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Nov 13, 2019 20:55
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50/50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid is a really great penetrating oil for loosening seized parts. Give it overnight if you can.
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Dec 8, 2019 00:05
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Charles posted:If a deer munches a plant (Azalea) does it look like a scissor cut? Never seen deer in our neighborhood, trying to figure out who my midnight arborist is :P
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Dec 19, 2019 02:18
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H110Hawk posted:Rule of thumb for electric tankless hot water heaters is don't. If you have any other options explore them first. New panels are around $2000 from an electrician as I recall, plus you might need to replace the line to the pole (the power company will tell you.) then you start trying to wire the beast of a heater. They're actually okay as point of use things for sinks, but for a whole house or shower I would definitely stay away. The gas ones are great though.
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Dec 31, 2019 01:40
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It’s easier with a finish nailer, but if you’re decent at swinging a hammer and it’s just a door or two hand nailing is gonna be fine. Somehow trim got installed before the invention of pin nailers after all. It does help to go ahead and start the nails in the piece before you try and nail it to the wall so you’re not trying to hold the trim with your knee/forehead and grabbing a nail with one hand and hammering with the other.
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Jan 19, 2020 23:02
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oXDemosthenesXo posted:This is for a shop space so cleaning mostly consists of vacuuming dust and shavings with the occasional wipeup of spilled stain or something. No need for sterilizing or anything. If you don't need to drive a car over it or anything, I use pieces of 3/4" or 7/16" OSB over painted concrete in my shop, mostly just in areas where I do a lot of standing. It floats, not attached to the concrete, but some is sprung on 1x sleepers and it is extra cushioney. Fairly decent cushion on the feet even without the sleepers and if you drop something it's not hitting hard concrete. Decent grip too and cheap enough to just toss and replace if it gets trashed. Horse stall mats are another option-some are sort of modular. Not super cheap, but they are nigh indestructible.
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Jan 28, 2020 01:20
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black.lion posted:Neat, then that's what I'll do, thanks goons! You might ask about this in the metalworking thread because they are really smart in there and not just kind of guessing like all of us. I think if you get it hot enough to solder, you’re going to have to basically repolish the entire thing and that’s a ton of work and hard to do if you don’t do it all day and have the right equipment. E: the metalworking thread- https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2905844&pagenumber=347#lastpost Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 22:38 on Feb 19, 2020 |
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Feb 19, 2020 22:36
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What's the story on adding japan drier to oil paint? I've got to do some touching up on white oil paint that I would like dry by tomorrow, buy it's pretty wet here atm. Will the drier change the color and how much should I use? Will putting penetrol in slow the drying?
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Feb 24, 2020 15:54
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With the right budget, anything is possible. Something like a spiral staircase might be a less disruptive (though probably also less convenient) option.
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Feb 26, 2020 19:30
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Get a BOSCHHAMMER, op. Mine is awesome and drills big holes through solid concrete fast. I’m not sure why you need to drill 5/8” holes to hold a trellis (this is still for the catpoop apple tree project, right?) but do what makes you happy I guess. Smaller holes are much easier to drill and like a 1/4” anchor is going to be plenty strong enough to hold up some apple branches.
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Mar 31, 2020 05:01
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Is the blade actually dropping or just the handwheel spinning? The blade should not drop and if it is I would follow up with the manufacturer. There are workarounds but if it’s a fairly new saw they should fix it. If it’s just the handwheel spinning, that’s annoying but tightening the screw that holds it on looks like it may help.
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Apr 12, 2020 04:53
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Hed posted:Bonus question: 'mending plate' is the magic phrase
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Apr 12, 2020 20:03
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Also, swimming in a truly foul above ground pool is a rite of passage that every child should experience and learn to overcome.
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Apr 27, 2020 04:02
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