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Strelnikov posted:Here is a hat I made the other day out of Red Heart (It didn't fit on my giant head, so I gave it to my roommate): May I ask where you got the pattern or where I could find a pattern of my own? I am in love with that hat! (Heh, sorry, I am a sucker for houndstooth...) I should probably post something soon. I'm not that great at knitting (and I'm the slowest person alive when it comes to knitting) but I have knitted some HP scarves for my sister and me.
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Jan 22, 2008 22:32
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left_unattended posted:I live in Christchurch. Thanks to the earthquakes, yarn stores are pretty thin on the ground. Add to that the fact that I don't drive. I found one yarn store which is on a direct bus route from my house, but the women working there were so rude that I stopped going entirely, and resigned myself to buying from WEBS and waiting for it to ship all the way here. This, many times this. I have started to pick up knitting after a several-year hiatus (I think I even posted way way way earlier in this thread), and the last thing I need is for someone to treat me like I know nothing. Well, I mean I don't really know much but at least be helpful or super nice or something 
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Sep 5, 2012 02:30
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Blocking question (that I edited because I have a different one from what I originally posted): Do you always block your pieces after they are finished? Or do you leave some of them unblocked? I feel like I have made a terrible mistake. I knitted a cowl with ribbing and I loved the structure in it. But then I decided to wet it to block and a lot of the structure is gone. The edges are curled inwards so I feel like it gave some sort of extra structure, but now it's stretched out and while it looks awesome, it doesn't look as awesome :/ I guess my secondary question is: is there a way to reverse this process? ackapoo fucked around with this message at 14:44 on Sep 10, 2012 |
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Sep 10, 2012 01:12
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left_unattended posted:The pattern for the cowl I'm going to knit soon says not to block it for that reason, or only to block lightly, so maybe some stuff just doesn't block well? I wish I could help, I would be so gutted if I did that Thanks! My pattern didn't really say it either way, but someone on Twitter told me that I could just re-wet it down and scrunch it up to retain the structure. I feel like I stretched it out in the process, but it will still look the same. I hope, anyway. Now I have another question: I am following a pattern for a slouchy hat and the pattern reads as such: Round 1: knit all Round 2: purl all Round 3: knit all Round 4: Purl all Round 5 Knit all Continue to knit until piece measures 3 inches from cast on edge. Round 4: *k4, M1B* repeat between * * repeat until end. The piece should have 110 stitches. Round 5: knit all Knit until piece measures 8 inches from cast on edge or to desired slouchiness. Round 6: K3, k2tog until end of round Round 7: knit all Round 8: k2, k2tog until end of round Round 9: knit all Round 10: k1, k2tog until end of round Round 11: Knit all Round 12: k2tog until end of round Round 13: knit all Round 14: k2tog until end of round The section in bold is what I'm confused with. I haven't really read patterns like this so I just want to make sure I'm doing this right. Plus going from round 4 to 5 to 4 to 5 confuses me. Is it saying after round 5 to knit the next row with the k4, M1B? Or to knit 3 inches from the cast on edge, THEN k4, M1B? EDIT: It seems like, looking through some photos on Ravelry of finished pieces, that it's knit for 3 inches THEN I do the k4 M1B. But if you have any ideas also please let me know! ackapoo fucked around with this message at 03:19 on Sep 11, 2012 |
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Sep 11, 2012 02:56
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Necrominatrix posted:I just wanted to say that this thread is awesome, and it was one of the things that finally convinced me to learn how to knit! Anyway, I've been knitting now for almost 2 years, and I have finally built up the courage to post here That is so awesome! I would love to challenge myself with a project like that. So I have a question for everyone: I've started knitting at work on my breaks (because I like having something to do), and I've had at least two people a day come up to me and asking to pay me to make something for them. How do you deal with that kind of question, especially if some of the same people ask you more than once? I don't want to be the person who makes things solely for other people, because I don't want to stop enjoying making things for myself. I would totally make things for my BF and his mom and my sister, but that's about it. I don't even want to sound greedy or like I don't want to help people, but I also don't like agreeing to something that I may or may not get around to. I guess my question also revisits what Wandering Knitter feels, in a way. I just don't know how to respond to people is all.
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Sep 26, 2012 15:34
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. Just thought you all might appreciate a project of mine - a knitted Super Meat Boy! It was the first pattern I've ever designed from scratch, and also my first foray into colorwork. Enjoy!
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When you soak a piece that used heavily dyed yarn, how long do you soak it for to make sure it doesn't bleed all over everything you own? I'm almost done knitting a cowl, and I used a Madelinetosh yarn in a deep green. The entire time I've been knitting it, the dye has rubbed off on my hands. I wash my hands after knitting it and it comes off pretty easily, but it is a huge pain. I was planning on soaking it in cold water when it's finished, but I dunno if that does much of anything. Any suggestions?
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Oct 4, 2012 23:45
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Thanks for the tip about synthrapol...I washed my cowl in it this morning and the water turned BRIGHT green. Soooo much dye! It's drying now...we'll see if it bleeds or rubs off anymore. [nvm about question I had...I think I have the ball rolling on the shawl, but we'll see if it still works when I get to the other end!) ackapoo fucked around with this message at 02:08 on Oct 14, 2012 |
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Oct 12, 2012 05:14
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Does anyone finish a project, and a few weeks later after it's blocked, look at it and go "hmm, I want to redo this in a different way..."? I finished this a few weeks ago: And I love it, but I've noticed that anything double-wrapped around my neck overheats the hell out of me. I mean yes I wear my stuff indoors, but it's cold enough in the lab I work in that I don't notice. Or maybe wool warms me up that much more? But anyway, I wanted to rip out the entire thing and then redo it as a shorter cowl. That way, I can also just use one skein and use the other half for something else (not that I'd know what to use it for). What's preventing me from doing it is the fact that now I think the pattern is a little boring so I don't really want to redo it. Please tell me I'm not crazy!
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Nov 20, 2012 16:01
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MarsDragon posted:Dream in Color's Smooshy Cashmere I ordered one of these during Eat Sleep Knit's Black Friday sale because the LE worsted cashmere ones were sold out in the colors I wanted...but my god Smooshy Cashmere is so soft and pretty. I have no idea what I'm going to knit with it but I'm thinking a shawl or cowl? I have this weird fascination for cowls. I love them so much now.
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Nov 27, 2012 03:56
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Phishi posted:Me too! Cowls take less time, less yarn, and don't have stupid flappy ends to get in the way. It helps that I'm in the PNW, I really don't need to wrap up very often. And Dream in Color with Cashmere is amazeballs, for serious. I made a very good friend a little buttoned scarf thing out of a skein for his birthday and he's been looooving it! Haha no way, I got 15% off too! I even got a free skein of Malabrigo from my lotto ticket...I have to wait to send it in because I'm moving though  I dunno what to get! I was thinking Arroyo in a nice color. Or maybe their sock yarn?
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Nov 28, 2012 03:00
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I like interchangeable circulars so that I can have multiple sizes of needles and cables, but Knit Picks doesn't make interchangeables smaller than 4 US and cables smaller than 24". I think that's really annoying and limits what I can and cannot knit (or have to buy extra standard circs for). Do you ladies recommend other interchangeable systems? So far I've seen Skacel Addi (which are out of my budget), HiyaHiya, and Knitter's Pride...I have no idea how good any of these are.
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Dec 2, 2012 07:57
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GabrielAisling posted:The Knitter's Pride needles are the same as the knitpicks ones, but in less eyeball bleeding colors. LOL! My makeshift set is in Sunstruck because I hated the colors. I didn't know Knitter's Pride was made by Knit Picks (sort of). I may ask for the Hiya Hiya ones for Christmas; they seem to be well-liked for the price by everyone who uses them. I usually use needles between 2-8 and in cables from 16-40", and I had to stop myself from starting a project because I didn't want to make it bigger just because I didn't have the correct cable size.
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Dec 2, 2012 17:29
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Fionnoula posted:Tin Can Knits is doing a customer appreciation pattern giveaway, good until Jan.1st. http://us2.campaign-archive1.com/?u=ac55a87e0c49ad678b42da26a&id=06f9d3b1f1&e=2142fa682a Ooh, thank you for this! I received some lace yarn for Christmas and I just so happened to be looking at the Sunflower Shawl for potential projects to use it with. I guess that's a sign 
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Dec 27, 2012 07:47
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Chiming in with the interchangeable sets to put in a vote for my bamboo HiyaHiya set! They come in two flavors: small (2-8) and large (9-15). I got the small set for Christmas. They also include one of each: 16", 24", 32", and 40". You screw the needle on and tighten it with rubber "grips" (almost like the rubber grips that you get to open tight jam jars). Ooh, and the needles are smaller, which I like. I started out with the bamboo Knit Picks one, and I bought each part separately. What I didn't like was that the interchangeable needles only went down to 4, and the cables only went down to 24". I like knitting cowls that are closer to my neck and with lace detail, and with the magic loop I kept screwing up the pattern because I kept miscounting. (Maybe that's my own fault, but I like making things as easy as possible.) I also didn't like that some of my needles didn't fit the cables I bought due to some defective piece. Like each one wouldn't screw in in at least one side of the cable. I broke a few cables trying to undo one of them... The only thing I don't like about the HiyaHiyas is that the needles are not sharp at all. Also the small and large sets don't work with each other (the needles with the cables, I mean). I like knitting with thinner yarn so I doubt I'll ever need the larger set.
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Jan 5, 2013 03:15
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Will they inform customers at all? I'm pretty annoyed. I don't remember if I had my cc info saved or not. Still, it's the least they could do. EDIT: Also, since I can't buy blocking mats from them anymore (cause f that), are there any other places you ladies like for blocking mats so I don't put holes into all my nice towels? ackapoo fucked around with this message at 17:40 on Feb 16, 2013 |
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Feb 16, 2013 17:16
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Fionnoula posted:Also check for the same thing marketed for home gyms - you tend to get more square footage for the same amount of money as the children's playmats. I got a set that's 24sq. feet for $20, all the playmats I could find were 16sq. feet for that amount of money. Added bonus for me was that the exercise mats were all charcoal grey, so things photograph fairly well during the blocking stage. Even though these ones have grooves, they would probably work well, right? Come to think of it, I need a yarn scale too...
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Feb 20, 2013 15:03
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While it is nice having a small scale to calculate how much yarn I'm actually consuming, it is freaking me out that most of the guesses I made are fairly close or on the dot!
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Mar 2, 2013 02:50
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I'm starting my first garment (well, soon I hope) and I'm so nervous. I thought my pattern booklet would have arrived from Jimmy Beans Wool by now, but the tracking number is still stuck at "your package just left Reno on 3/9." Here's to hoping it comes soon. I've never knit a sweater/top/tee/ whatever and I have no idea what to expect. Do any of you have any pointers? I don't want to mess this up :/
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Mar 13, 2013 16:00
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I jumped at four skeins of madtosh merino dk on the JBW Wool Watcher this morning, and I thought I would have more than enough for a sweater. Turns out I probably need another skein to knit the patterns I actually want to knit. Now I have no idea what to do with what I bought. So here are some choices I've considered: Pull Me Over (with 3/4 sleeves) Mama Vertebrae I'd like to try some patterns meant for worsted weight (like this or this, but how do I know if I will have enough yarn? If you have a thinner yarn than your pattern suggests, your finished piece would technically be smaller, right? Should I look at patterns for sport weight instead? (Like this or this?) I just want to make a pretty sweater ;_; My last question is how do you all alternate skeins when you knit, and how do you like carrying yarn up the side without it looking all messy?
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May 25, 2013 01:11
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Thank you all for your advice. I definitely am a bit more rough on my garments than most people, so maybe a sweater isn't the best option with that particular yarn because I will just end up ruining it after a wear or two. (I also have a tendency to catch buckles and such on my knitted items because I am so not careful about that kind of stuff.) There's a cool shawl that I'd love to make, so I think I may end up knitting that plus a hat or gloves or legwarmers. So when I look for proper sweater yarn, the tighter the twist, the more durable it is? And isn't something with nylon a bit more durable? I noticed a lot of sock yarn that does well includes nylon. This is the first sweater/top I've knit ever. It was recycled silk so it was totally not flexible at all. But that's the extent of my garment knitting, so I didn't even consider whether or not certain yarns were durable or not durable, or the fiber content.
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May 31, 2013 15:10
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I was in Montana this past weekend, and I stopped by a yarn store in Ennis for a small haul. The lady was extremely nice and I even introduced her to patterns from Lisa Mutch. (It was freezing out and I was wearing my Lineage cowl and she really liked it) (Sorry for the Instagram-y filters but I posted the photo there originally!) L-R: Zitron Unisono (in this cool neon color...I couldn't resist!), a yarn that the shop owner handspun herself, and two skeins from Mountain Meadow Wool (which I guess you could call "local" even if it actually comes from Wyoming). It's a small store and she carries lots of German yarn and Noro, with a small wall of Malabrigo. According to my BF, I spent at least an hour and a half shopping and talking to her (which he wasn't TOO pleased about but what can you do).
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Jun 18, 2013 01:40
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I need some assistance on this pattern. I originally posted this on Rav and messaged the pattern creator, but no one has responded. This is the second time I've tried to contact her with no response (the first time I had trouble deciphering how she wanted you to decrease on the arm). I don't have her e-mail so Rav is all I can do. Anyway. Right now I am finished with the arm section and am moving next to the thumb gusset/hand area. I am at 54 st like the pattern states. The way the pattern knits up is band A > knit space (5 st here) > band B > knit space (21 st here). The thumb gusset is supposed to be knit on band B, and I originally decreased on the 5 st knit space (was prev 21). This is the next part for the thumb gusset: “When specified rows have been completed for band B, begin working the appropriate Chart 4A for you size over band B. On the first row of Chart 4A, increase 1 st at either side of band B. At the same time, increase 1 st at either side of band A on the the next, and 2 foll alt, and foll 4th rnds (to a total of 18, 22 sts in each stst panel between markers) as follows: Slip marker, work appropriate row of Chart 1 over band A, slip marker, LLI, k to next marker, work appropriate row of Chart 4A over band B, slip marker, work to end of rnd marker, RLI. Continue to follow Chart 4A over band B through Row 25. (85, 95 sts)” Since there are only 5 st in between band A and band B, I feel like all the increases (aside from the increases in Chart 4A - there are 21) should be in between band A and band B (also so that band A stays straight. But the instructions say to increase on both sides of band A… If I’m reading this right, on Row 1 of Chart 4A, do I increase on: - both sides of band B? - one side of band B? And then I don’t increase around band B after that, but the increases look like this around band A: band A > LLI > k > band B > k > RLI So that there are increases on the left and right of band A? And that’s only where I increase other than the pattern on Chart 4A? When it says “2 foll alt”, do I increase every two rows? Additionally, 85 - 54 = 31. 21 st are increased from the chart alone. So doesn't that mean I can only increase to 10 st outside of the bands? Where am I doing my math wrong?
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Jun 24, 2013 00:50
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Brazilian Werewolf posted:I don't own the pattern so it's hard for me to say confidently, but it looks like This makes so much more sense. Additionally, I DID mess up the arm because I decreased all on one side, so one of the stockinette sections were totally skewed. I mean, I would have used "increase/decrease on BOTH sides of band A/B" instead of "either side," because to me that implies that I can pick whichever side I want. Thank you so much for your help!
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Jun 24, 2013 03:26
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rear end Crackers! posted:I recently threw a malabrigo superwash wool sweater into the dryer without thinking and it shrank to about 3/4 the size it should be Weird question (I am sorry about your sweater btw ) but I notice that some yarns are "machine washable" or "superwash." Are some yarns actually machine washable? (Like if you throw them in, they won't shrink) I guess I'm asking because even though I knit with some superwash wool yarn, I would never consider throwing anything I've knit in the washing machine. (I definitely have waited a few months to wash & block FOs because of super laziness, but that's besides the point.)Also I have another question (somewhat related because it pertains to sweaters). Say I wanted to knit a sweater with this yarn (because I was in a yarn store and saw it and felt it and realized that I may want to sleep in a bed of it), but I've read that it has a tendency to bloom and garments become larger. Should I be knitting a smaller size to account for this? Or should I be utilizing this yarn for garments with negative ease? Positive? Ease confuses the heck out of me.
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Jul 31, 2013 00:33
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I still haven't gotten up the courage to see if blocking/stretching can save it. I'm never making another sweater EVER AGAIN.
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Bertrand Hustle posted:
Sounds like ribbing at the end? Correct me if I'm wrong though. ALSO THAT SWEATER. It would be pretty oversized for me (like a boxy tunic almost) but ugh that pattern is so frickin amazing. Do you guys celebrate knitaversaries? Exactly one year ago today, I drove to Michael's after work, bought some Clover straight needles and some Debbie Stoller bamboo yarn, and learned how to cast on & do garter stitch with that Knitting Help site. I knit myself a cowl. I was hooked after that. I had knit before but this time I was super hooked. So yay!
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Aug 21, 2013 03:50
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What's all your preferences for blocking hats? I am finally blocking a slouchy-ish hat, and I read somewhere that you can wrap it around a bowl to get a good round shape. However, I stretch out the brim if I do that, and every drat slouchy hat I've ever owned just falls off my head because the brim is just too loose. In hindsight, I should have just knit the brim with a smaller needle. Can I shrink the brim at all through blocking with another item? Last night, I blocked it by wrapping a towel into a roll & folding it in half, and then putting the hat on one end of the roll, but then the end was kinda lumpy so it didn't look even. And then the brim just kinda hung down & it seems like it's stretched out.
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Aug 28, 2013 14:29
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All of your blocking suggestions are awesome. The hat I blocked is mainly for me, but I do have a few other hats that I have held off on blocking. I don't have any balloons (or balls) on hand, but I may try for a foam head of sorts. I'l also try to scour my kitchen for a bowl or plate that will work. Not that I don't think I'll have this problem, but any dye that's bleeding out won't stain porcelain, will it?
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Aug 29, 2013 03:49
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I bought two skeins of Shibui Baby Alpaca DK while on vacation, both different colors. I saw a pattern I'd like to make out of it, but I would be about 70 yards short. (The pattern calls for 580 yards; I have 510, and that's if I use every inch of yarn) This is the pattern: Groove by Stephen West I doubt I would end up doing this pattern, but if it was possible, could it be made? I guess if I were to do any alterations, I would make the solid cable bars shorter so it would end up symmetrical, but I would have to think about it (and I don't really want to think about it haha).
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Sep 8, 2013 03:20
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Safari Disco Lion posted:You could just work it in a smaller gauge than called for, or leave off a couple rows at the end. Haha! As do I. I was considering trying my hand at his newest KAL because it helps a group of women in the Philippines, but I feel like I could donate it directly and save myself the risk of knitting something super crazy and weird. Yeah, I wasn't sure if it needed all 580 but I'll do more research on yardage. From the first couple pages it seems like people are using a little more than I have, but I'm going to keep looking. Thanks (Bob & SDL!)!
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Sep 8, 2013 04:39
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Is it a common occurrence to frog pieces you don't like and reuse the yarn for something different? I received a gorgeous silk lace yarn for Christmas and made a shawlette earlier in the year, but now I'm second guessing whether I actually like it or not. (Also i only ended up using less than half the skein and I cant stand having leftovers.) I'm considering ripping it out (even though I'll lose a little bit from where I wove in the ends), resoaking & drying to unkink the yarn, and then using it for something else. But then I don't know what to knit with it. Also the yarn bled like a son of a bitch when I washed the FO and I'm worried that the leftover yarn and the recycled yarn won't look the same.
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Sep 11, 2013 19:25
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Bah! I haven't downloaded ios7 yet because my phone won't tell me I can upgrade. I tried using the fourth code but I don't know if it went through. I'll try it again at home after updating.
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Sep 19, 2013 00:41
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Well, I updated to iOS 7, but I didn't know how to re-redeem the code. It wouldn't give me a chance to download under iOS 6.x.x, but it gave me a price when I went to the app on my phone, so I just bought it anyway. NBD. I really like it so far. I'm going to give it a try at the Arizona Yarn Crawl next month, because I need yarn for Christmas presents and I've been holding off on buying any!
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Sep 19, 2013 04:38
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Aerofallosov posted:So, I've finished my garter stitch scarf (hooray). I saw a pattern I liked with increases and decreases (gonna work on my purling first, though) that asked for Noro Kureyon. I was able to go to a local yarn store with a friend and it was itchy and stiff to me. I got some Noro Silk Garden, which is alright. They were out of Taiyo though. Has anyone tried that? And do they all really have knots in them? I'm not sure I like the idea of knots while I knit... I have three skeins of Kureyon Sock. All of them have knots in them. It's not a rare occurrence for them to have knots. One of them was so bad that it abruptly changed color on either side of the knot. Some people will cut certain colors out of it because it doesn't go with the color scheme.
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Sep 22, 2013 16:55
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left_unattended posted:Made a comment about needing to start my Christmas knitting soon, and my partner replied, "If it makes it any easier, you could knit me something for Christmas too." The logic. It burns.
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Oct 3, 2013 16:43
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zamiel posted:Hands down (or feet up?) the best sock pattern for a complete noob is Silver's Sock Class. There are three weight options and she walks you through each step clearly. Here's the Ravelry page, too. edit: it's also one of those recipes where you knit til it fits your measurements. Holy crap, I totally understood what was going on. It was like a light bulb went off in my head. Thank you for this! I have been really scared of socks since I started (it may be the only thing I have not tried yet, aside from intensive colorwork), but now I really want to try it.
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Oct 11, 2013 03:24
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Pile of Kittens posted:ONE OF US! ONE OF US! http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3337961 I have one ounce of alpaca roving coming from that Kickstarter from the Chilean alpaca farm. Except I have no idea what the hell to do with it. I don't know if I will get into it but I do want to try it out. Are there less expensive tools to buy to try out spinning?
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Oct 15, 2013 21:32
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jota23 posted:It looks that way, but a poorly balanced spindle makes for an extremely painful experience. That's perfect. I shall have to purchase that soon!
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Oct 16, 2013 16:37
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Posting here since the Rav forums is slow to respond to my questions: I have recently finished up knitting a cardigan, and as I pick out buttons, I am not sure if I will need a ribbon backing for the button band. After measuring out the buttonhole, I am looking for 25-26mm buttons (maybe up to 28mm if I find something I like). They might be really large to hold on their own and I’m worried that the opening will stretch out. 1) I am considering getting ceramic buttons, but I am also open to plastic. If I use wood buttons (I kinda like the lighter wood on a darker teal color), will it be a pain to wash them since wood and water don’t mix? 1a) With that in mind, will I actually need a ribbon backing for the button band? With the way the button band is constructed, I am planning on sewing the buttons on where it will be more form-fitting. (So not on the actual button band/garter rows to stop the shorter side from curling, but just to the side of it) 2) With the way the top opening of the cardigan falls, the top button (at the neck ribbing) will most likely fall over. If I should sew ribbon backing, should I stop at the second or third button from the top (under the ribbing) so it doesn’t show? 3) Along the same lines, the longer front where the cable band is will also fall over at the top if it is unbuttoned. Should I reinforce all of the buttonholes or leave it be? I was trying to figure out how to sew backing on without it showing, but I don’t know if that means to have the ribbon come up to a certain point and leave the top buttonholes unreinforced. Other projects don’t seem to use ribbon to reinforce their cardigans, so maybe I don’t need it? I don't know. But I do like the cardigan (it's a birthday present to myself) and I plan to wear it a lot!
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Oct 24, 2013 03:22
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mcknitknot posted:It's personal preference really. I would go with a ribbon backing. I think it looks better and will prevent the buttons from pulling the yarn all over the place. I haven't bought the ribbon yet, but I was thinking of this. Also, I would probably just do it on the back of the buttons and not the buttonholes, since the back of the cable panel will show more often than not. This is my sweater, except it is all finished and I wish I had uploaded a sort of final photo of everything done and ready. It is made in Malabrigo Rios in Teal Feather, so I wanted a ribbon in teal? Or maybe green? Or something blue? I have no idea.
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Oct 26, 2013 04:45
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| # ¿ May 8, 2024 20:29 |
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MarsDragon posted:On Ravelry, a number of independent designers are having a sale from November 1st to the 15th. There's some good stuff in there, if you want to look. Ooooh, it ends on my birthday! *plots out what to buy*
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Oct 31, 2013 00:17
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