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forestboy posted:My last mostly completed project is a 10 and a half foot skiff. (found at http://www.gsahv.pp.fi/skiff/skiff.htm ) I've been wanting to tackle a boat for a long time. How long did it take to build?
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Feb 8, 2008 07:42
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Speaking of MAME Cabs, heres one I converted from an old Sarge cab for someone else. Never did get around to building my own. Notice the fake coin door, built from plywood and stickers, looks good from a distance.
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Apr 15, 2008 21:54
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Scottw330 posted:These were all slightly modified versions of the plans from this site: I like the non round cover on the sub and the center looks really nice. What did you wrap the center with? Is that a woodgrain vinyl or something? Most importantly, how does it sound?
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May 17, 2008 19:52
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YouDummy posted:That will look super cool covered in ivy or maybe honeysuckle.
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Jun 7, 2010 15:42
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Decided to build a dog bed out of particle board for our poor, unspoiled, mutt. Cut the pieces from 5/8" particleboard.  Built the base using biscuits, glue and screws.  At some point I decided to switch from inches to centimeters, never do this mid-project. Somehow I made the base a bit shallower than I meant but the dog won't care. Base is screwed into cleats that are screwed to the bottom.  Dry fitting the parts together. The walls are also held together with biscuits, screws and glue.  The walls are attached to the floor and roof with pocket screws (not shown). Testing. Finished except for filling the screw holes and painting. It also doubles as a night stand. Polly just sort of accepted it as hers without fanfare ... no For Me? looks, just curled up and plopped down like it had always been there.  I have to admit, particle board is easy to work with - lightweight, regular size, cuts easy, holds a fastener well enough if you won't be stressing it and dirt cheap; perfect for these type projects.
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Jun 14, 2010 02:31
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Hadlock posted:Did you go with particle board over cabinet grade plywood due to weight? No, I just didn't want to spend much money on it because we're about to tear out our kitchen, have some structural repairs done and then remodel. We're going to paint it anyway.
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Jun 20, 2010 21:08
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Jusupov posted:I'd rip all the floors open and do it properly. Having just gone through this, it might not be as painful as you fear. Although we did rip up our floors, I'm told a good carpenter can do considerable repairs to the structure while leaving the floor intact. It was about $1500 to tear up my kitchen floor, replace the joists and put down a new subfloor.
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Sep 13, 2010 09:52
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I would just get the permit and be done with it. Depending on local laws you could still get hosed years down the road if/when the house is ever sold.
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Jan 11, 2011 06:12
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coltron4040 posted:It might not bet the most advanced and stable thing when finished but it's going to look kickin rad. Are you concerned about the oak expanding and contracting while glued to the plywood? Seems like it would rip itself apart.
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Jan 26, 2011 14:52
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Ah, Google tells me a long board is a skateboard. As a woodworker I was taking it literally.
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Jan 29, 2011 04:11
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JohnnySmitch posted:My latest weekend home improvement project - I covered up my tired backyard patio slab with paver blocks: Huge improvement!
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May 9, 2011 23:54
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The Aeolian harp pics have inspired me and I've now enlisted the help of a friend who knows stringed instruments inside and out, I hope to build a bitchin' harp.
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Jun 9, 2011 07:57
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Similarly, my uncle used Black Locust wood posts for fencing just sunk into earth with no gravel or concrete and they last several decades but Locust is stupidly hard and rot resistant.
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Jul 13, 2011 04:25
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Hadlock posted:My landlord's daughter is getting to the age where she's aware of alcohol. Just curious, is your landlord getting rid of the liquor and liquor cabinet because he doesn't want it around his daughter? Hadlock posted:I can't even think of where I would buy wood veneer, or how to repair these chips. Any ideas? You can buy 3/4" wide rolls of birch veneer from hardware stores but I suspect it will be difficult to match. You cut out the chipped area into a shape that is easy to match, usually like a rhomboid as squares become very obvious, and finish the new veneer to match as closely as possible then glue it into place. Is it real wood veneer or something that resembles wood?
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Oct 6, 2011 03:20
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Alterian posted:The area I want to turn into part of the kitchen is where the dinning room table is. I'll take a photo of what it looks like now to show how ridiculously cluttered it is with all of our stuff. We cook a lot so we have a lot of cooking things. You could build a nice walk in pantry for the price of some 2x4s, drywall and paint, plus whatever type of shelving you want. 
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Oct 30, 2011 05:01
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MarshallX posted:Here's what two nights gave me: You keep making me want to build a bow. 
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Nov 4, 2011 06:01
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Rapulum_Dei posted:I have pictures of the whole process if anyones interested. Definitely want to see them.
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Nov 5, 2011 06:03
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Rapulum_Dei posted:Bit of a long post I'm afraid but I did make an effort to keep the pics small. Is this for your garage? How are you keeping the door clasped? I would be tempted to line the bottom with fire bricks.
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Nov 6, 2011 10:24
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Traxxus posted:Sample of the stain, wasn't too sure about the gel type but with the large amount of vertical space it should make it easier. I'm a little nervous to start staining and clearcoat, while I've stained things before I have never used clearcoat, and am afraid to mess up something I've put so much time and effort into. I've heard gel stains are better for pine to help prevent blotching but I've never used them. You might want to use a conditioner first. The stain won't take as darkly but it will help with the blotching. As it is, it will be tough to match the oak to the pine. Your stand is over-built since those inside 2x4s don't touch the floor they are adding weight without supporting any. Won't hurt anything, just reduces your storage space. Nebulis01 posted:Don't ever use a brush to apply a stain, grab a ratty white t shirt and soak it, glove up and hop to. Stains make brush marks entirely too visible (for me at least) You're supposed to wipe off the excess stain so it shouldn't make any difference how you put it on. Using rags is one less thing to clean though.
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Dec 11, 2011 10:09
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Traxxus posted:The inside 2x4 is just a screw strip to hold everything together during the initial build, I didn't want it to be load bearing since all the weight would then be transferring to one tiny area, instead of the box frame spreading it out. If the inside 2x4s were supporting load, it would still be distributed throughout the frame. Load will take the most direct route to ground. As it is, the additional 2x4s are adding weight without providing support meaning that technically they weaken the structure but your stand is so sturdy it won't matter.
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Dec 12, 2011 09:58
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Traxxus posted:Ah I get it, you're right. It is sturdy as hell, especially since I added the back piece of plywood. Yeah, the plywood sides will help distribute weight evenly you just have to make sure you have sufficient support going to the floor and that the floor is sturdy. Actually, when I built an aquarium stand I ran 2x4s from the top to the floor so the weight transferred directly. The plywood skins will help distribute the weight. Or if you want to stick with your design then I would lay the bottom 2x4s flat, think of how walls (sole plate & studs) and floors are built. I'm not sure just how heavy you need to go for 1500 lbs but I have seen 125G aquarium stands built from 2x4s. Here is a stand that is similar to yours but the corners go to the floor. The corners are built up 4x4s. http://www.thereeftank.com/forums/f6/staples-90-gallon-build-thread-176452.html And a nicely done bow front. http://www.livingreefs.com/my-50g-bow-front-stand-progress-t15412.html edit: Here was what I was originally thinking. http://www.arbreptiles.com/cages/75g_stand/index.shtml wormil fucked around with this message at 20:34 on Dec 13, 2011 |
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Dec 13, 2011 19:34
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Plasma1010 posted:I'm thinking it might be more effective with just the pure flame on the cup itself, or with a thinner piece of metal ? Is it aluminum ? I think you would def. want to cap the top though if you want it to warm faster, looks like it would take forever otherwise. I've always wanted a cup warmer for my shop... I'm always carrying coffee out there and it gets cold before I drink it. Seems like flame directly on the cup would leave soot and maybe crack the cup. I'm thinking a thinner top might be better too as aluminum doesn't hold heat well which is why aluminum fry pans are thin. One of these with a cast iron top would be sweet but I have no idea how you'd do that.
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Jan 8, 2012 05:39
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wheatpuppy posted:Maybe keep an eye out in antique shops for a cast-iron trivet? Great idea!
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Jan 8, 2012 08:37
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Traxxus posted:I do see why people don't use pine now though, it looks even worse when you try to stain it dark. I love pine.  Although I prefer it natural or a slight honey color. Actually though you did pretty well for staining pine, it rarely turns out that well. Was that gel stain?
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Jan 22, 2012 04:44
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I retrofitted an old Atari cabinet for mame once and sold it. It was pretty easy except for mounting the heavy rear end crt since the cabinet wasn't designed for it. The old cab was built from 5/8" particle board was pretty flimsy. If I were going to make another for myself I would definitely build from scratch and use an lcd which would allow me to use 1/2" birch plywood and keep weight/size to a minimum.
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Feb 7, 2012 10:23
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swampface posted:
Bet that sucker won't move while you're planing or sawing.
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Feb 8, 2012 06:14
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My grandma made soap and I've always wanted to try it at least once. She also saved the little pieces when the soap was almost used up and melted them together somehow into new bars.
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Feb 20, 2012 09:46
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I've seen those deck tiles on Holmes and other DIY shows, they are kinda cool but expensive I suspect.
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Mar 5, 2012 02:00
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snarkcookie posted:Mounted to some mdf board on the underside of the unit's shelf, an idea I stole from http://www.decluttered.com/ I was going to build a shelf to hold all the crap but this is a better idea.
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Apr 9, 2012 03:28
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dreg posted:I don't believe I've ever seen oak like that. Nicely done.
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May 12, 2012 07:35
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Finally finished the Cigar Box Guitar I've been working on.  Previously I had posted some progress pics in woodworking and ask/tell music threads but here it is finished. The neck is red oak, the fingerboard is walnut, the nut is some unidentified insanely hard South American hardwood. The frets are 12 gauge copper wire (there is a close up in the woodworking thread) in diatonic spacing (like a dulcimer), the bridge is made from a copper covered ground rod, and the tuning heads are zither pins. Finished in lacquer. It can be plugged into a guitar amp and has a volume control. I can't play it yet but I had someone test it out. Since this video I have changed the bridge, nut, strings and tuning so it now sounds very different but this will give you an idea. http://youtu.be/mmy59UgIETY Progress posts of the woodworking here: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2819334&userid=30468&perpage=40&pagenumber=12
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May 25, 2012 03:35
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Ukulele is done! Soprano boat paddle uke, southern yellow pine top and back, poplar sides and neck, walnut fingerboard, copper wire frets and walnut inlay in the headstock. Video later.
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Jul 15, 2012 21:02
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Took this: And made it look like this:   A friend of mine had a ratty looking (it looked worse in person than in the pic) guitar and I made a vinyl skin for it. He plays a lot of online chess hence the theme.
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Sep 6, 2012 06:19
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Sudden Infant Def Syndrome posted:That looks amazing Thanks. After seeing it another guy wants me to do his Ibanez bass, different theme of course.
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Sep 7, 2012 03:10
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Trabant posted:What is it? Art, you savages. Trippy. I like it.
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Sep 11, 2012 05:39
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I built one of these years ago for someone else and tried several things. I spray painted the perimeter of the inner glass (acrylic) for better contrast at the edges. And I may have doubled up the poster, it's been a long time and I can't remember for sure. Big box stores sell ceiling light panels cheaply that diffuse light (Lowes Item #198521). They aren't wide enough for a movie poster but it wouldn't be hard to join two together with acetone or pvc glue. Sanding clear acrylic is easy but those light panels are probably cheaper.
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Sep 13, 2012 19:37
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Dass Niemand posted:If I really wanted to go all-out I'd get a legitimate double-sided poster, which would help a lot with the contrast. I've also heard of people spraying the entire inner panel with a thin layer of white paint, but I'd be afraid to block out most of the light. I forgot to say, nice job! I actually used black spray paint for plastic on the inside acrylic edges because the black was getting blown out. I did something else to help the contrast overall but I can't remember exactly what. The poster I used was printed on a nice quality large format machine on inkjet paper so it may have been thinner than what you're using. Edit, if you are concerned about heat, drilling a few holes in the top and bottom would allow airflow. I have seen some of these with the lights around the inside perimeter instead of directly behind the poster, I imagine that helps contrast considerably. Now you've made me want to build another.
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Sep 13, 2012 20:54
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Soopafly posted:...in the meantime I made this out of an old vinyl record I had around, similar to the other stuff I posted a long time ago. I like the record and would leave it. Here's a bit of a 4 string I'm working on. 
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Sep 26, 2012 06:29
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Simple deck table I built from a few decking scraps someone left me. Top is held together with cleats. Legs are screwed to the top and to the cleats. 
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Oct 29, 2012 06:16
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| # ¿ May 3, 2024 00:26 |
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dwoloz posted:Spent many months and hours of frustration and sweat but finally finished restoring my 1919 bungalow Amazing job, congrats.
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Nov 15, 2012 00:59
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