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What you want are talking about are peltier coolers, which is what's in that single bottle wine cooler- remember nothing can magically generate cold; so while one side of the cooler gets cold the other side gets hot, hence either the hot side must be vented outside the vehicle, or it must actually be outside the vehicle, if you put a peltier inside a vehicle without venting or proper placement it will have a net heat gain, and actually make the inside of the car warmer. Peltiers are a good low cost solution to get an electrical cooling effect, but they will require some engineering to get right; it might work better if you combined a peltier with a water cooling system of some kid to displace the majority of the heat outside the vehicle.
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May 31, 2008 01:40
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Peantoo posted:What if I just put one of those reflector thingers in my windshield and tinted the others a lot? Then the solar panel on the roof would absorb/reflect a lot. That would heavily reduce the heat getting in, wouldn't it? Actually by nature of what they are solar panels do an excellent job of absorbing light (and therefore creating heat), but a 3cm gap between panel and roof would prevent that from transferring through.
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Jun 11, 2008 01:13
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Danger Kick posted:Posted in AI Your transformer is probably doing one <or all> of the following: ->Making a lot of noise, as previously mentioned ->once attached to ground is acting as a parasitic antenna and dumping signal strength along the ground line ->you have additional grounded components inside the box that once attached to an earth ground make a faraday cage. <also previously mentioned> My suggestion for fixing this is to put the transformer external to the box <like a laptop power brick, outlet--120--power brick--12--speaker box> that should solve problems 1 and 2 above, if it turns out to be 3 you may have to make a local ground which is not the same as earth ground to connect the case components to.
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Apr 21, 2010 20:06
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Wayne Gretzky posted:Still kind of curious about the "why" and "what about later, when you have to tear it down" parts of the whole deal Itty bitty house + full size trebuchet == someone else's problem.
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Jan 12, 2011 23:39
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On a house that old you generally have to add a 'strip' process to the refinishing because those hardwood floors used to be maintained via a wax and oil varnish which has now turned into a gum deep in the grain. You DO need to do this with windows open or you are going to get out of your mind/possible do damage to yourself from your fumes. You can purchase floor stripper cheaply enough, you spread it on with a paint brush or paint roller, wait ten minutes and then get to scraping it off with plastic scrapers. The stripper is so strong it will DISSOLVE the plastic scraper, but if you use metal it may marr the floor. After it has been stripped, wait 20 minutes, then using rollers apply a single layer of polyurethane, after that has dried (basically one full day), apply one more layer of polyurethane to get that 'mirror shine' finish. If you want to do it in one application AND have an even more durable top coat you can use marine epoxy, but it is VERY important to have how you are going to apply it thought out before you begin because the epoxy is two part and starts curing the instant the two parts are mixed (Rather then polyurethane which is air dry, and dries in relation to exposed surface area- so will not harden in the can). As for why these floors were pulled out- it was considered lower maintenance to simply vacuum carpet then it was to strip wax once a year with bleach, and apply wax weekly with a mop. Without doing those steps the floor tended to look kind of blackish, and was vulnerable to water damage.
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Feb 27, 2011 17:35
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Richard Noggin posted:I've always used a lambswool applicator to apply urethane to floors. I would think a roller would leave bubbles. Humm, it has been more then 5 years since I did it, and I forgot to open the windows before I started- so I may have warped memory of the incident...I am pretty sure I used SOMETHING on the end of a broom-pole to apply it, but perhaps it was a more purpose-built applicator rather then a standard paint roller. I also remember putting it on VERY thick, probably more then 1mm of actual material laid down, making sure the floor was actually level was actually a consideration. Edit: I keep my house at ~15C during the winter, which is when I did it. I had the vent plugged up in that room; so temperatures could have been below 10C; I may have used a roller but the set time was so long, so much material applied, and my floor so level anyway that it self-levelled to a nice finish Linux Assassin fucked around with this message at 22:10 on Mar 2, 2011 |
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Mar 2, 2011 22:06
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c0ldfuse posted:Really? I would think you would have used it as a veneer and kept it as thin as possible for cost concerns. If a plywood lists a hardwood it generally that means 'most of this is soft wood lumber, but the veneer on the outside and some of the core is a fancy hardwood that will look much better and be stronger'. As a result if the difference in cost between 1/2 inch plywood and 1/2 inch maple plywood is $8, then the difference in cost between 3/4 inch plywood and 3/4 inch maple plywood is also $8. Not to say that pure hardwood plywood don't exist (and a suitably expensive as a result), they are just not the norm.
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Mar 25, 2011 21:20
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Isaac Asimov posted:I'm new to this whole area of SA, wow. #1- Don't use anything serrated. #2- Get a SELECTION of high carbon (but not carbide) knives; they can all be identical; grip and blade thinness are important, size less so, but to prevent a lot of self stabbing/cutting long thin knives like fillet knives or juliennes are idea, since you can have your fingers well away from the other side of the blade when working and won't have it suddenly poke through the workpeice into you.. #3- Get a SELECTION of files (round and flat), rasps and sandpaper- ideally in progressive increasing grit. #4- Get a SELECTION of sharpening stones, going from coarse to very fine; get good at sharpening. #5- Work on good wood, you will be able to put detail into a good block of hardwood that would be simply impossible in soft pine. #6- Have a good polyurethane and stain handy before you start, the longer that finished shaved wood is exposed the air the more of a dark colour it will take on. Don't use any knife for more then ten minutes of shaving, set it aside after ten minutes and grab the next sharp one, repeat until you are out of knives, then sharpen them all, then repeat. Do not try to get to the final form by knife shaving, use your files, rasps and sandpaper for getting final form, only get to the rough by whittling, then get to the final finished form by your progressively increasing sand grits, once your done sanding quickly wipe it off with a wet, or tacky, cloth and immediately apply sealer (polyurethane does great; some will darken, others will simply make it look wet, some are effectively invisible, choose what looks best- I often prefer high gloss non-darkening).
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Jun 13, 2011 20:26
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Blistex posted:Hmmm, search function must be down. Two Ghostbuster references and Boomerjinks hasn't spammed this thread with his car. I am impressed by the build and finish quality that would allow cedar to survive that tale of use, wear, abuse, and neglect- congrats on getting your rocking-horse back.
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Jun 23, 2011 00:16
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Iskariot posted:Yeah, I'm wearing a mask and various other protection gear more frequently nowadays as most of this stuff will probably kill you in the long run. Those dry, white boogers you get from sanding drywall probably means your lungs are covered in it too. Maybe the stuff itself isn't dangerous but I'm pretty sure that poo poo isn't healthy. Get ANY mask with protruding 'pod' filters; buy a stack of dusk masks; zip tie those over the inlets of the pod, change regularly. For bulk dusts this will do you just fine, the activated charcoal is only for reactive compounds, and the pleated prefilter is basically just dusk mask material but spread out over more area so that they don't clog as quickly. Also many masks out there use standard prefilters and charcoal filters (and are generally held inside a pod) so try to get one of those instead of one that uses a custom combined prefilter/charcoal.
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Jun 28, 2011 21:33
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Thumposaurus posted:The filters are sealed from the factory. When you open the filters and use them after you are done seal them back up in a zipper baggie, or vacuum pack if you can. It will make the filters last longer. That's only for the activated charcoal though; which only comes into play if you are dealing with volatile chemicals, wood dust and drywall dust just use the cotton pleated filter. This is also why if the charcoal and pleated filter are separate it is better, because you could keep the charcoal in its factor sealed package until needed and go through dozens of pleated filters in the meanwhile. Though if you are VOC sensitive (like my wife) activated charcoal is awesome even with acrylic paints. If you are adventurous and you prefer filtering but won't DIE if the filter fails you can actually buy bulk aquarium activated charcoal (or even make you own) open up the pod and replace. If you will die if your filter does not work DO NOT TRY THIS!
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Jun 29, 2011 23:27
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Sun Dog posted:I don't know from disc brakes, but I saw these while browsing DealExtreme and thought of you: ZOOM Hollow-Out Bike Bicycle Mechanical Disc Brake Line - Red + Silver I like dealextreme and all, but I'm not sure I would want to have my life depend on one of there products.
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Jul 6, 2011 04:40
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Bad Munki posted:Depending on what kind of surface you want, you can get nice plywood for a desktop, or if you want something more heavy duty (i.e. heat and somewhat chemical resistant, etc.) you can get melamine-covered MDO or particle board. If you were to buy a desk at office max or similar, you'd probably find it to be veneered particle board, which is also a perfectly reasonable option. I have actually found that MDF will take on a nice finish if stained and polyurethane- it still does not look like a wood grain, but it does look nice, and the polyurethane finish stops it from soaking up water like a sponge.
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Aug 2, 2011 17:17
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High powered lasers! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Laser_propulsion
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Aug 17, 2011 04:21
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DahtBard posted:Recommendations on a place to buy servos? We've looked around at various hobby stores, but we're not quite sure yet. The use of it is kind of interesting. I'm on my school's Baja SAE team (race dune buggies), and for the first time we have someone who is wheelchair-handicapped. We want to make sure everyone can drive (always a yearly goal), so obviously a physical pedals won't do it. We think the basic solution is going to be rigging up some racing bike-esque brakes handles to use as throttle/brake. They'll control a thumbwheel pot which some small chip (they want to use Arduino but I'm leaning towards a smaller AVR) will send as a reading to a servo, which'll actually move the throttle switch. It really doesn't need that much torque, as the physical resistance is fairly low, but the thing needs to be able to handle a Baja race. We'll secure it down as best we can, but at the end of the day there will be some jostling. Any suggestions? Do not use servos. Installing a throttle cable to a motorcycle handle and placing that on the steering column will provider greater more tactile control of acceleration; you could get a throttle locking handle to provide an ability to maintain speed through turns, and put a second handle on the other side that has a similar cord going to the brakes. It also removes the possibility of run-away acceleration due to a bad bit of code, pot crack, or other electronic issue. Then everyone else can also steer the racer like a pirate ship too!
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Sep 28, 2011 20:44
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Blistex posted:Looking good, can't wait to see the finished product. If you don't mind me asking, how much was the table saw and how's it holding up. I've heard mixed reviews on King Canada stuff. Mostly that it's either great or crap. The issue with King Canada is that they MAKE great stuff, but they also buy and relabel a lot of there products; the relabelled stuff is understandably mixed bag. The stuff they make is generally quite heavy, and sturdily built but lacks any bells and whistles. It often feels like an imitation of an equivalent other brand.
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Nov 4, 2011 19:54
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Fooley posted:Ahh yeah you're right. A quick search and it looks like they sell them just like the regular movements in Michaels. I never really look in that section and didn't think they sold ones with pendulums for some reason. Also as long as you are willing to go big for the movement a chain weight pendulum escapement and movement are actually not impossible to build and can be done with nothing more then a gear cutting template, some wood, a scroll saw or bandsaw, and a lot of patience.
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Nov 28, 2011 21:08
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notsoape posted:We don't have the brand red devil here, but it was regular lye bought from a soap supply website. And yup, I'm being extremely careful - labcoat, goggles, gloves, trousers, socks & shoes when handling the lye and a separate set of pans etc used only for soap making - never food You should make some lutefisk in those pots and pans just so that you can tell people 'yea, I cook in those too'.
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Dec 9, 2011 18:10
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Plasma1010 posted:This is really awesome and would work well with my sealing mason jars when I am trying to keep tea warm. I'm thinking it might be more effective with just the pure flame on the cup itself, or with a thinner piece of metal ? Is it aluminum ? I think you would def. want to cap the top though if you want it to warm faster, looks like it would take forever otherwise. Flame directly on cup would be bad because even a tea-light candle's flame is rather hot, enough to melt glass in fact. However the heat is rather 'spot' heat, so any diffusion with a good conductor (like an aluminum plate) will give you even heating to an area (perfect for warming coffee rather then breaking cups, or melting a hole in the bottom of a mason jar).
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Jan 8, 2012 08:24
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Pagan posted:I've been doing some leather working, and been having fun with it. Leather stretches; if you make up a wooden block about 5% larger then the cellphone in every direction and then shape a 'wedge' into the front of the wood (so that you can force it in), you can jam it in there and then work some oil into the leather from the outside while warming it up, and it should expand to be tightly gripping the wooden block and therefore just adequate for the cellphone.
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Jan 22, 2012 04:04
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DethMarine21 posted:I get what you are saying, I had the same idea too but like I mentioned I am just wary of using any sort of slide contacts in an environment where they could be easily affected by contaminants like dirt, oil, burnt powder, etc. Also airsoft guns have tiny followers (if any) and almost no room in the magazine to install anything, so I put that idea in the back of my head for now. Its an air-soft AEG, why don't you just drill a hole/put a shiny sticker in/on one of the action gears and put an optical sensor in there, just count rotations with near 100% accuracy minimal actual electronics added to the gun itself. You could then put a reset button on magazine seating to make it reset.
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Jun 9, 2012 05:18
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DethMarine21 posted:This project was designed with real firearms in mind; attaching it to an AEG was a kind of a spur-of-the-moment thing to maybe stress test by putting a million rounds on it to see if any issues came up. Well with a real firearm a sound sensor would do just fine. A simple pickup tied to your round counter should be more then accurate enough to count even fully automatic of .22 rimfire without missing any- you will have to play with the thresholds to make sure you are only counting the loudest part of each shot. That would also likely work with the airsoft system, but airsoft is so quiet by comparison to an actual firearm it would require a lot more tweaking and it might count ambient noises as a 'shot' in a loudish environment.
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Jun 9, 2012 09:40
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Liquid Communism posted:Problem there being any time you happened to take it to the range, you run the risk of counting anyone in the lanes to either side of you firing as a shot as well. As Corla Plankun said; this is a non-issue. Say you have a pickup where the pezio puts out a maximum of 1 mv (worked example; you won't ever see numbers likes this from an actual pezio pickup), you tune your circuit so that the loudest part of the shot hits that 1mv spike- even if you were to put another firearm DIRECTLY ON TOP (as in physically touching) of the firearm with the sound sensor you would only see perhaps 500uv spikes form its shots. The firearm in the next lane would be generating in the tens of nanovolts range, if it even had enough force to charge the pezio at all. Another great way to put this into perspective is- how often do you hear a guitarist on stage have their guitar pick up the string plucks from the guitar next to them, or the voice of the crowd (Hint: Never). Edit: Thinking about it, there might be false positives on a pickup if say- this sensor was on and tuned for a .22lr rifle, and a .50 rifle was being fired within say, 1cm of it (or physically touching it). Or if the firearm were being shot with a larger total energy round (So again, if you have a .22lr rifle; and you shoot and hit it with a .308; that will likely generate a false positive; it will also likely destroy the mechanism, and the rifle). Now I bring this up only because; say you have this system tied to a 5.56 rifle system that also features an under-barrel shotgun loaded with either a heavy buck or solid slug. In that scenario firing the shotgun may (and only may) trigger a false count for firing the main weapon. It is still predominantly a non-issue, but 5.56 rifles with under-barrel shotguns do exist and they may be poor platforms for a pickup based system. Linux Assassin fucked around with this message at 17:29 on Jun 9, 2012 |
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Jun 9, 2012 17:21
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Just completed my most recent project: An animal trap. https://www.instructables.com/id/Building-a-low-pressure-humane-animal-trap  Linux Assassin fucked around with this message at 02:11 on Jun 8, 2013 |
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Jun 7, 2013 23:46
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