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rifles
Oct 8, 2007
is this thing working
My cousin paid $4k for a 94 2.5 and it chucked a rod bearing within 3 weeks.

It was a good excuse to cobble together a small block ford (had a ford pattern T18 laying around to mate to) and swap it, though.

Oh, the transfer case was full of water and the transmissions are worthless for anything other than a 2.5 if you ever decide to do that, too. The best part is they almost always have 4.10s because otherwise they're completely useless. It was so underpowered with 33s on it that he couldn't use 5th at all. It would be almost full throttle to maintain speed.

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rifles
Oct 8, 2007
is this thing working

TotalLossBrain posted:

Whelp the Jeep got stuck good in a mud pit last weekend.
Now a winch, bumper, and a bunch of other gear are on the way.



Do you air down your tires?

rifles
Oct 8, 2007
is this thing working

Not An Arsonist posted:

Apparently i am blind because i never knew this thread existed until a friend mentioned it to me. Have some pictures of my buttless champion. Excessive antennas are due to my ham radio hobbies.







rifles
Oct 8, 2007
is this thing working

kastein posted:

That's honestly not a bad idea at all. You could probably use a much smaller clutch than that to improve packaging, too, wonder if there are any good options for pirating one from. Maybe an air injection pump off something?

Fab Rats on youtube mentioned using a 2 cylinder AC compressor off a 60s Chrysler.

rifles
Oct 8, 2007
is this thing working

IOwnCalculus posted:

That's probably a York compressor. They're great, just expensive and large.

Looking into it, it's an RV2 aircon compressor which is the same thing on my Polara. It's a v-twin piston pump with its own sump. I could see it being pretty drat good.

rifles
Oct 8, 2007
is this thing working

therobit posted:

Hello Jeep people. I come seeking guidance.

While I had always thought Cherokees were the right SUV to get unless one needed a suburban, I still drive a sedan and I had never really considered getting a real Jeep before this year. I have admired Jeeps with no tops on them in the summer before, but I never thought I actually wanted to buy one. My 6 year old has actually been trying to convince me to buy one for like 3 years now.

Last weekend it got warm here and I went to the drive-in with my family where I saw a bitchin' vintage lifted jeep with cool graphics on it and the roof off. My son of course loudly insisted I should buy one, and something clicked over in my head. I feel like I need a Jeep now. It might have passed, but the next day My son brought it up again in the car with my wife. I said, Yeah, I have been thinking a Jeep with a stick shift sounds like a lot of fun, actually. My wife said she had been thinking the same thing, and that if I wanted to buy one I could, as long as I also buy a cheap pickup for yard debris (the previous plan had been to buy a truck).

I don't like how the ones made after the TJ look, so I am thinking TJ or YJ, or possibly a CJ. I do not commute, so it will be used mostly on the weekend. I do not plan to heavily mod it or do serious off-roading. The worst I would do would be fire roads, dirt roads, stuff like that. I would like to be able to get whatever jeep buy up to 70 on the highway, but I will generally not be driving super long distances in it. Would going with a 4 cylinder be a terrible Idea? How much will I hate myself if I get a CJ? Do the soft tops let a lot of water in and cause rust? I live in Oregon s we don't salt the roads, but water intrusion can be a thing here.

Don't get a 4 cylinder, and don't get a truck too. Get a 4.0, skip the truck and get a small flatbed trailer for $500 and put a hitch on the jeep.

rifles
Oct 8, 2007
is this thing working

Fashionably Great posted:

Accidentally joined the jeep club




2000 XJ Sport with the 4.0L engine. Surprisingly minimal rust. It was well taken care of and loved other than a lovely leaky aftermarket sunroof that is now sealed shut and a headliner that needs to be replaced.

Headliners are easy to DIY and the material is pretty cheap on Amazon! I've had good luck with the highest hold 3m spray adhesive for doing them.

rifles
Oct 8, 2007
is this thing working

General_Failure posted:

I spent yesterday on plan B. Getting the Rav4 ready for re-registration. I also grabbed a thermostat for the Jeep but haven't installed it yet. Along with what you said, it gave me time to think. I believe the coolant ratio wouldn't be very good right now. Summarised events:

Suspicious of cooling system -> stress tested with hard acceleration and it dumped coolant -> Topped off with water because it was Sunday afternoon -> Replaced cap the next day -> Cooling system pressurises ->> Dumps coolant on steep hill. Fill system with 2L of coolant concentrate and enough water to top off (Could have been from 3-10L. Not a drat clue) -> Still struggles with heat shedding.

The last two hours or so of my trip which was just along the plains the temperature was creeping up ever so slowly. As in over half an hour maybe 1 or 2 degrees. And it was hard to get rid of. Temperature would rise more if I pulled over. Running the heater (On a 35*C day) brought it back down to 100 but the temperature would slowly creep still which struck me as very strange.

I'm not going to bother fixing the coolant just yet. There's components to investigate and coolant is expensive so I'd rather not waste any. While boiling point is affected negatively, heat shedding should be a bit better, right? So I should probably investigate that first. Fan then thermostat I guess.

If you take the cap off while it's running does it bubble in the radiator at all?

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rifles
Oct 8, 2007
is this thing working

Raluek posted:


anyway, i had to leave the jeep in impromptu storage for a month while we finished our trip and then went back with a trailer to rescue it. i had taped a cover over the open diff, in a hurry, but it didn't survive the elements. that led to the inside of the diff getting all loaded up with sand and crud that blew in there sometime over the month it was sitting out. this weekend i spent an hour or two scraping out the easy to reach stuff. it currently looks like this


i will need to clean it much more thoroughly before rebuilding. if it was just the empty housing, i would spray a bunch of purple power in there, hose it out, and blow it dry. but i dont want to get water in the pinion bearing, so i think i am going to have to stick to brake cleaner or mineral spirits.

i was originally going to post just to ask for advice on this, mainly whether this is a sane approach to cleaning out the diff. then i discovered how fuckered the driveshaft was, so that's now included for some bonus laffs.

i really want to avoid removing/reinstalling the pinion bearing, because getting the depth and preload set right are beyond my current comfort level. replacing the locker is just one set of shims, so i feel comfortable enough getting into that. i wonder how many cans of brakleen it will take to get all the mojave out.

Gas or kerosene would probably be the cheap move to cleaning that

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