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You shut your whore mouth. (and the thing that needs to be reassembled is a spare part sitting in the bed)
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Oct 1, 2014 22:58
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Astonishing Wang posted:I notice every few months that my Jeep is driving lovely again. I check everything in the front and rear and usually find that something has come loose. It used to be the track bar at the axle, but I had a mechanic hit that bolt with an impact and it's been fine since. Now it's the gigantic frame side track bar bolt that has come loose. It's a 24mm nut, and I already torqued the poo poo out of it (no torque wrench, just leaning on it). I think I should remove the nut and use some lock-tight on it, and maybe use a nylon lock nut. Any better way to make sure that fucker doesn't come loose again, short of welding it? That one doesn't have a greasable joint/bolt, does it? I just ran into this on a friend's jeep on the other side of the track bar. Was getting looses every few months. Turned out that it was nearly seized due to lack of lubrication and was backing itself off as the suspension flexed because of that. Or at least that's the best we can figure. Why it wasn't getting enough grease is a whole other story - a supposedly quality aftermarket company (well, most of their stuff is nice that I've seen) not lining up the grease channels with the grease holes in the bolt.
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Oct 23, 2014 19:51
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Philip J Fry posted:The D30 is fine with a little reinforcement. Yeah, it is totally fine sitting on jack stands. I'll give you that.
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Nov 8, 2014 05:02
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Just spent another morning beating panels on a 41 Willys. This one is going to be a show Jeep, so it's getting extra attention inside. Today was getting the tops of the rear fenders flat and shrunk enough to not "oil can" as they will be getting a skim coat of body filler to make them look as factory fresh as possible. I don't agree with that, and I think it's asking for problems, but it's not my shop and it's not my build so whatever. Some guys just want them that way. This fender top was pushed in from the outside 2-3" not long ago. I'm moderately happy with how it turned out, but it was a lot of torch and shrinking hammer work. Much more than it should have been because I'm still pretty terrible with flat panels. I'm used to panel beating much newer stuff.  Funny enough, it was likely on the production line (at the opposite end) on the same day as the owners, possibly for several days over the christmas work stoppage. They are less than 250 numbers from each other. His is the one on the left: 
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Nov 22, 2014 21:16
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Since when did you take on a jeep? Why haven't I seen this before? It's a customer's vehicle in a friend's shop. I'm just there to weld and panel beat on occasion. And fix their old radios. I wouldn't be able to afford this thing when it's done. It's really getting the full boat treatment.
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Nov 24, 2014 18:19
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Sandbagger SA posted:That's great to hear. I really hate it when people halfass historical vehicles and make them into XTREME MUDDIN RIGS I agree with that, but this one is going to the other extreme in a way I don't entirely agree with. In my original post about it I'd mentioned the fender tops I was working on. There is no way to make them look like they rolled out of the factory just by banging metal, so they are getting skimmed with body filler. That's not going to last on a flat 18 gauge panel (rest of the bodies are 14). I have it banged out and shrunk tight as a drum, but it's simply not going to last once the things start getting driven, having stuff put in it, etc. But whatever, that's what he wants and it's pretty typical in these circles. Other guys do a restoration that makes it look like it's been used but in very nice shape. It's not perfect, which means they actually CAN use it and not worry about concours level bullshit. To me, that's the right way to restore one of these things. That's how most of them seem to get done. Anyone who cuts one of these things up to turn into a mudder should be shot. No matter how bad of shape it's in, someone out there needs the good or even marginal parts on it, and will even be happy with relatively clean pieces of sheetmetal. It's getting hard to find real, original parts for them. Finding things like the top buttons on the windshield frame is ridiculous. You can get $4 a piece replicas on eBay, but they are supposed to be blackened brass and these are stainless steel. And the sheet metal screw on them is too SMALL. Not too big, which would be less of a problem: too drat small. No one makes a proper repro so the originals.....if you can even find them.....are crazy expensive.
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Nov 25, 2014 03:30
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Sandbagger SA posted:For real people that are meticulous about restoring military vehicles confuse me since when most of these vehicles were built and maintained, the mechanics did fairly slapdash jobs with the paint and other details because it was considered a waste of time to spend hours color matching greens when the vehicle was just going to get run ragged and put away wet anyhow. That's actually all part of the fun for them. They will track these things down to where they served and what field kit upgrades SHOULD be on there. Most of those kits were installed like poo poo, and they want to keep them that way. For example, this "show" Jeep had a field kit trailer plug put on it. They obviously didn't have a hole saw, because the body was just chewed through with a 1/2" drill bit in something that kinda resembles a circle. That's staying. It did not have the field kit to brace the tailgate, but did have the field kit for a gas can, which led to the tailgate being bowed and ripped up. That was fixed, and the can bracket is going back on, but no bracing or bracing kit so the can can NOT be filled when this thing is done. In fact, just having the spare tire on it is going to be dicey, but I'm pretty sure my buddy did a really nice job of things back there so it will probably hold up. I don't get as excited about it as these guys do, but I can kinda understand where they're coming from. They get to go to WW2 reenactments and shows and sperge with each other about why every last detail on theirs is how it is. And it seems you could pretty much put any kit on that you want if you come up with a good enough story, truth or evidence be damned.
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Nov 25, 2014 17:09
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Sandbagger SA posted:Uh - tailgates? Using the term loosely. I just mean the rear panel (non opening).
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Nov 25, 2014 20:58
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Sandbagger SA posted:GPW (Ford) or MB (Willys)? I'm guessing MB, because I can't see an "F" stamp in the rear sheetmetal (and the WILYS stamp would be in the lower left just out of frame). That will at lease make for relatively cheaper resto parts (F-marked poo poo like seat frames are getting ridiculously expensive). spacetoaster, take a ton of pictures of details inside/outside the tub and engine bay (make sure you look at the bottom of the windshield frame closely, they usually rot out but I think I have access extra repro sheet metal for that), and see if you can find any original tags on it to figure out what year it was manufactured in. I can get you a build date/factory from that. I can probably help you out identifying what you have as far as original and what you need to bring it back to factory spec if you want to go that way, or what you can use to just make it look pretty much right.
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Dec 16, 2014 17:30
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spacetoaster posted:From what my grandfather told me, it's both. In order to speed up production Ford made the frames and Willys made the engines. That wouldn't be too much of a surprise depending on build date but it's more likely that it had the "other" motor put in during it's refurb. The important thing in regards to what parts you need to make it correct (sheet metal, seats, etc) are going to depend on the body. If you look at the first crossmember in the front and it's a curved tube it's an MB. If it's a stamped piece that looks like an inverted U it's a GPW.
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Dec 17, 2014 17:38
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That is such a fantastically bad idea. Seriously. Just park it until it can be done properly. If you ingest one of those zip ties it's gonna be really bad. You're better off driving it without a filter at this point.
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Jan 4, 2015 00:44
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I'd be doing a leak down test next, or mostly just injecting air into 2 and 3 to figure out if it's coming back out of the throttle body, if it's going to launch your dip stick, or if it's gonna bubble out of the cooling system.
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Jan 5, 2015 18:25
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I agree with IOC. What you are describing sounds entirely backwards. You may have just lost you fan clutch.
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Jan 6, 2015 21:42
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:the atrocious lower windowline/waistline Belt line. And you won't find much of a different one in any new design at this point due to safety regs/realities of materials on a budget.
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Jan 27, 2015 02:08
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BoostCreep posted:I need to buy another coax cable so I can tune the antenna with an SWR meter before I can use it. No amount of tuning is going to make up for where that antenna is sitting (no ground plane) but it should work out acceptably enough, just kinda directional and weak. So don't be surprised if you can't get it better than 1:1.5. I did similar on my rover (on the spare tire carrier) and it's a hell of a lot better than not having one (or having it in the middle of the roof where I would rip it the gently caress off).
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Feb 2, 2015 03:32
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BoostCreep posted:Yeah that's pretty much what I've read. This tends to be a popular place to mount antennas on Jeeps and it works for most people. As long as it reaches other Jeeps 100 yards in front of and behind me, I'll be happy. Yep. That's what my 2m antenna is for. And it does just fine. Just saying don't go crazy trying to figure out what is wrong when you can't get the SWR down below 1.5. Get it as low as you can and be happy (because what is "wrong" is where it's mounted). It will do fine.
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Feb 2, 2015 03:45
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jonathan posted:How tough is it to pull an engine in a driveway for a 2003 Liberty ? It comes out the top like most, so it's not that bad. Stuff that needs to be dropped out SUCKS in a driveway and without a lift.
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Feb 12, 2015 22:08
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SouthsideSaint posted:So on Monday my wife is trading her escape for her mothers 2000 WJ. First thing it needs is new tires because the ones on it are dryrotted and worn funny. While its getting new tires im going to have a chance to look at the suspension. Could someone recommend a decent set of tires in this size? Money is not the issue its there are so many mediocre brands for the size it has. 245/70r16 tirerack.com Look up the right size and start reading reviews. They are quite comprehensive and will tell you about the various types of traction and noise. There is no "one type is best" because they all perform differently in different ways. You need to figure out what is best for you based on where you live/weather, where you drive, how you drive, etc.
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Mar 8, 2015 19:59
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SouthsideSaint posted:I wasn't really looking for someone to say THIS IS THE BEST TYPE BUY THIS THE STATISTICS SHOW ITS AMAZING!!! I was more looking for a *Insert Brand Here* this is what I have used and enjoyed. Tire rack has people reviewing those tires and its always for a different type of car. But more importantly there are actual tire rack authored reviews that rate things like dry traction, wet traction, road noise, etc. This is what I was trying to direct you towards to equip you to make the best decision for yourself, rather than hoping someone here is going to live exactly where you are and drive they way you do in the same model vehicle. But mostly to avoid yet another boring back and forth about which tires to buy. Seriously.....it's as bad as a what car should I buy post. Possibly worse, because the relevant information to make an informed decision is out there and easily understood.
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Mar 9, 2015 05:03
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SouthsideSaint posted:I read a lot of the reviews and there all over the place. one person will say how the tires were great and lasted for a little longer then the warranty. Then the next review down will just trash the tires. So ive come to the conclusion some of those reviews are written while someone has there head in there rear end. But you guys have defenitley steered me in a good direction thanks. Jesus H. Christ. I'm talking about this: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...=yes&tab=Survey Sorry, it's called "surveys". I get it: you don't want to or are incapable of doing research on your own. I'm done here.
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Mar 10, 2015 00:16
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Quite A Tool posted:So my 97 XJ is burning an alarming amount of oil. Smokes a decent bit on startup but then no noticeable smoke that I can see in the rear view after that. But it smells like burning oil when I park it/get stuck in traffic. Probably somewhere in the realm half a quart every tank of gas at this point. Rings? A leak down test would be a good way to determine this. But it's just a likely to be valve guide seals.
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Mar 17, 2015 16:28
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Sandbagger SA posted:I don't have a lot of experience on sand but I would assume wide tires may help here. Generally, traction control is more useful than clearance. You got it. LSD/lockers and some wide tires on bead lock wheels so they can be aired way down was the ticket in the outer banks. Their sand is presumably a lot drier, but I'm sure that will work.
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Apr 16, 2015 03:10
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Horse Divorce posted:Anybody know a good engine stand for mounting a 4.0? I've got my eye on a Jegs 1250 lb stand but I don't want to make too many more stupid mistakes. I've got a $45 harbor freight 750 lb stand and it works fine (and has for years). If I were to do it again I'd buy the 1000 lb one for $60 for the extra stability (wasn't in stock and I'm a man of immediate needs).
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Jun 8, 2015 17:48
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kastein posted:Skip the retreads, iForge was given the runaround for weeks and lied to multiple times by Treadwright about whether his tires had shipped yet, finally canceled his order, and I am not sure if he even has his money back yet. They moved the company and fired every last competent person just over a year ago. It's no longer the same company in any way other than name.
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Jul 11, 2015 05:48
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TACTICAL SANDALS posted:The other day I went with my friend to check out this MJ since she doesn't drive manual yet Photos on the ramp of a fire department. This means it was run to red line from dead cold on a regular basis. Trust me on this one. It's what we do.
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Jul 29, 2015 01:48
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Not like I am a huge snob, but the LR3 did everything the Commander did but better, for me at least. No doubt the fit and finish is better, but it also breaks down better and does a better job of leaving you with no place local to get parts. And yeah, I still have them. But I'm a realist. That why I have two.
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Aug 29, 2015 00:37
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Faded Mars posted:However, I can't say I've really seen a Wrangler of any type pushing a plow anywhere I've lived. I used to plow with a CJ7 (for tight driveways - but now I have a V plow) and I just took the plow off of of a Wrangler for a friend who bought it all ready set up and didn't want the plow. They aren't going to push a 7 1/2' or anything, but they are great for driveways and got used for that a lot around here before they want into stupid pricing territory. A 6 1/2' seems to do fine. mod sassinator posted:A wrangler is probably terrible with a plow. The short wheelbase and relatively light weight has to be hell with a giant heavy plow pulling down the front. You'd need to put a few hundred pounds of weight in the back as ballast I bet to get any traction. It's not that bad with the right plow and a salt spreader. I know the guy he bought it from and he plowed his 1/2 mile driveway with it for years. You pretty much have to keep up with the snow in reasonable amounts. I came back to run a pass for him when we got 14" one night and he really wasn't able to make much headway on his own. I think he said 8-10" was about all he could comfortable do.
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Sep 13, 2015 16:19
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Safety Dance posted:Torque tells me that the Evap system test is Incomplete (along with the O2 sensor heater). The shop manual suggests I need a cold start for the Evap leak test to occur, is that correct? You need more than that. The fuel level has to be in the correct range as well, which is typically something like 1/4 to 3/4 tank or so. I'm not sure what it is specifically for your Jeep.
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Nov 8, 2015 18:57
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TotalLossBrain posted:Thank you for that explanation. I've done most other car-related mechanical and electrical fuckery, but never an A/C system. I made a thread so I could stop re-typing the same things over and over again. I really suggest you go here and read before doing anything else with the AC: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3616944
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May 5, 2016 17:27
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TotalLossBrain posted:Guy at the dealership said it happens about twice a year. How incompetent do the employees have to be to allow this to happen twice a year? The vin is on EVERYTHING from the vehicle to the keys to the registration, etc. How someone gets far enough into this process to allow that to happen when the keys of the truck you just test drive are presumably sitting on their desk with the vin written on them is just beyond comprehension. And the fact that it happens that much and they don't have a manager do a physical final paperwork vs walk out and look at the VIN final check before handing off the vehicle is puzzling.
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May 8, 2016 22:14
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Safety Dance posted:You know what, it has to be air coming around the threads of the bleeders themselves. I only opened them 1/4 turn, and the bubbles and the fluid both stopped when I closed the bleeders. I had the vacuum cranked kinda high, I guess. Put never seize on the threads. Lots of it. Not only does that stop it from sucking in air when you vacuum bleed but you'll actually be able to bleed again next year....... And my opinion is always to pressure bleed if possible. Motive is a good choice. Mine has served me well.
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May 22, 2016 00:15
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Wizard of Smart posted:I am going to install some KC driving lights, and I was wondering if it's possible to have them set up so that turning on the brights turns them on too? Of course it is, but it's definitely not street legal to do so. Simplest approach is a relay using one of the high beams to trigger it and properly sized cable from the battery to the light on the load side.
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Jul 16, 2016 17:07
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Cartouche posted:Both Parleys and Provo canyons would be a deathwobble sentence in a very real way. There is a place in Kamas, but even that is too far on a highway for comfort. I'm just catching up on this thread. I get it, you don't want to fix this yourself. That's fine. Now find the best 4x4 shop you can in a reasonable distance (call around, talk to a few of them first) and get your poo poo flat bedded to them. They may even have a flat bed to come pick it up from the dealership. You're making this harder than it needs to be.
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Jul 24, 2016 16:25
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So I've got a friend with a 2016 JKU with what turns out to be a problem nearly everyone seems to have, have had, or will have: ABS controller is bad. He ordered one 6+ months ago. There's still no update on if or when it's going to come in. I'm 99% sure can code a new or used one to the car for him with my scanner (Autel Maxicom 808). It's even the last year before you need to fork over $50 per vin for OEM activation. He needs a 68259556AD. Does anyone know of any of these that actually exist? Or has anyone cracked one open to fix it? I'm wondering if they have the same problems as the late 90s/early 2000s ATE units that you could fix by reflowing the solder joints on all the power and relay connectors. I've done all the googling and nobody I'd consider reputable is claiming to fix these things or have any reman or aftermarket units.
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Dec 16, 2023 18:39
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kastein posted:I have no idea where to get one but I mean, I'd crack it open and see what's going on, it sounds like you have nothing to lose. That's kinds where I'm at. Even if I kill it I can just put it back on and his jeep is just as broken as it was before. kastein posted:There is a previous revision one on Amazon for 500 used right now (same part number but AC at the end), that is a bit of a gamble but might get it working again. In Chrysler land the letter revs are almost always software or firmware update only, but not always. Oh lol, you have to do all kinds of things I don't want to do to vin pair the wrong revision (of any module) with the ECU on a chrico of this vintage. They just don't "let" you unless you start hex editing. Not my jeep, not leaving a lump in my barn if this gets f'd up. And he's tried summit and all the parts places with mopar in the name, which is really just like 4 with multiple reseller front ends. Even the three that still list it as in stock can't get it if you actually call them. There are also some on ebay for $800.......not a gamble I'm going to advise him to make. Who knows what shows up.
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Dec 16, 2023 22:07
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| # ¿ May 10, 2024 14:43 |
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This isn't grounds (this time.....or at least primarily) because it's the positive terminal that was hot. I'm going to guess the terminal connection is terrible (take it off clean the post and terminal) but also that the cable itself is rotten under the insulation. You'll need to take a razor knife and cut some back from each end. You're likely to see green crusties and if you do it's time to replace that cable.......and to do the same thing to check the ground cable from the battery because if one is like that the other probably is as well.
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Mar 29, 2024 01:01
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