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I'm thinking about taking a flap disk to my cast iron skillet. I noticed that some of them are specified for steel, stainless, aluminum, and/or non-ferrous metals. Which does cast iron count as?
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Sep 21, 2014 19:30
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| # ¿ May 16, 2024 10:37 |
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Lodge skillets are textured, but older skillets are typically very smooth. I was thinking about de-seasoning mine with oven cleaner, flap-disking it to polish the surface, and then re-seasoning it. And, hell, it's a Lodge. If I gently caress it up, I paid twelve bucks for it.
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Sep 21, 2014 19:36
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It suffers from the same problem as the rest of open source software, namely, a core group of idiot savants hack on a piece of software until it becomes just barely usable to them. They are now the experts in that software, so "usability" means that it doesn't actively harm the user.
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Oct 21, 2014 03:00
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StormDrain posted:
No. That's not how metal works. In fact, turning it down to zero is slightly detrimental to the longevity of a torque wrench.
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Oct 22, 2014 21:05
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StormDrain posted:How so? I'd expect that the forces and temperature not enough to make a difference, but I don't understand how being at zero would be detrimental. I thought the spring would lose it's strength due to creep, and since it's not very long that could cause some real changes in the torque reported. From 0-250 is less than an inch of compression. It's been nearly 10 years since I was in my materials science course, but I still understand the stress/strain diagram. There's creep, which shows up when you keep the torque wrench at one torque forever. It show up most at temperatures way higher than you'll see in your garage. Then there's fatigue, which shows up when you keep moving the spring over and over again. The effect of fatigue is much greater than the effect of creep. Cat Hatter posted:This gets said a lot, and makes sense, but I read an article in FourWheeler that had empirical data showing a torque wrench losing accuracy over time when stored at 70 ft lbs (I just wish they would have had a control stored at a lower setting to be more conclusive). Finally, there's ridiculous n=3 studies that don't demonstrate anything in a statistically meaningful manner.
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Oct 23, 2014 01:25
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Harbor Freight 1/2" torque wrench will.
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Oct 27, 2014 18:27
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So you can sneak it on an airplane.
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Nov 5, 2014 22:26
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iForge posted:Bigass drill bit for the bigass drill press Dear lord, what speed do you run that at? 2 rpm?
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Nov 6, 2014 05:19
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What's your favorite oil filter removal tool that's quickly available on Amazon? Whoever installed it on my jeep last made it his mission in life to make sure that oil filter never got removed. The old jab a screwdriver through the filter trick didn't work either.
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Dec 7, 2014 00:21
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I hauled off and bought one of these: http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-5866-1...l+filter+wrench which Amazon believes will be shipped to me tomorrow. I do have a harbor freight near me, but only have one car that currently has no oil and a punctured oil filter.
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Dec 7, 2014 00:42
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kastein posted:Since the guy asking about filter tools mentioned a jeep, make sure you don't bash into the oil pressure sender with whatever tool you end up using, because they are tantalizingly close to the filter on some jeeps and break when touched with a filter wrench about like a pinto explodes when rearended by, oh, anything. My oil pressure slowly creeps up to 80 and doesn't respond to RPMs, so I need to get around to fixing the oil pressure sender anyway.
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Dec 8, 2014 15:45
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Root Bear posted:
The way the crotch is stitched, the stitching in the crotch likes to come undone. I've had two pairs do that to me.
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Dec 27, 2014 05:28
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I would go for a horizontal bandsaw if you want a nice finish, chopsaw if you don't give a gently caress. The hackerspace I'm part of has one of these http://www.harborfreight.com/horizontal-vertical-metal-cutting-bandsaw-93762.html as our backup horizontal bandsaw if the nice one is out of comission for whatever reason. It works pretty well.
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Jan 2, 2015 20:07
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kastein posted:What thickness stock are you cutting? If it's over 1/4", even the Ridgid chopsaw I have (http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-14-in-Abrasive-Cut-Off-Machine-R4142/202201510) really labors to cut at a reasonable rate. Not sure I'd trust that one to do anything but piss me off. I cut off a chunk of 3" aluminum stock with the HF band saw. I started with the nice big band saw, had to switch to a chop saw when the blade popped off of that, then switched to the HF band saw because the chop saw sounded like death and was taking its sweet time. The HF band saw kinda sucks and feels like it's made of paper mache, but it works.
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Jan 2, 2015 21:40
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In all likelihood, I was Doing It Wrong.
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Jan 2, 2015 23:04
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I'm thinking about getting a bigger electric impact wrench. Currently, I have a Ryobi 1+ 18v that I can pop 3/8" sockets on. According to Amazon, it makes "up to 1,200 in-lb of torque". I also have a Ryobi power drill that uses the same batteries, and I'm reasonably happy with it. I could stick with the Ryobi 1+ system and drop a hundred bucks on a 1/2" impact wrench that makes 200 lb-ft of torque. Is there anything better I could find at a reasonable price point, that would justify jumping to a different battery ecosystem?
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Jan 24, 2015 01:31
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revmoo posted:You're talking about the little bitty impact driver. It's not really an impact wrench though you can use it as such for smaller bolts. I have both that one and the larger 200 ft-lb version you're considering. I get a lot of use out of it and it works pretty well. One thing I like about it is that it seems to hit a good torque range for installing lug nuts so I will often just let it hammer my lugs on and don't even bother with a torque wrench. I wish air was in the cards anytime soon, but I'm going to be living in a condo with a shared parking structure for the next few years at least. A factory reconditioned Milwaukee 2663-80 claims to hit 450 lb-ft. I'll see if there's any money left in the budget once I get my bonus / tax refund for that + batteries + charger + impact sockets.
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Jan 24, 2015 17:50
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Jeez louise. At that price, you could afford to build something really similar.
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Feb 27, 2015 17:44
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You might wanna maybe nsfw that link.
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Feb 27, 2015 18:44
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My friend just IMmed me -- he's an engineer for Snap-On now, and can get tools for half price. It's fuckin' impact wrench time. 
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Mar 10, 2015 06:53
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Mooseykins posted:Ingersoll-Rand impact guns are (genuinely) better than Snap-on ones. While Snap-on ones have slightly more power, they're heavy and loud, suck to use and have a poo poo direction change switch. Also, i've known quite a few people who've had to send them in for rebuild after a little over a year when they lose a lot of power. Oh dag, I was talking about the cordless electric impact. I wish I had shop air... or even a shop. SouthsideSaint posted:Hey there fellow chicagoon. any chance you could ask your friend about the stud removal tool that's recommended in so many threads. I couldn't get snap ons site to work so here's an ebay link with the part number When I finally get around to calling in a favor from him and getting an impact, I'll ask about this too. e. Also, the listing expired.
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Mar 10, 2015 16:27
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Spotted on a downtown Chicago bridge: I tugged on it a few times. It's on there pretty good.
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Mar 19, 2015 18:51
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Something your program may want to consider is that things like bits and blades are effectively consumable. Might be wise to budget to replace drill bit sets every couple of months.
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Apr 14, 2015 04:21
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So far, I've used a lathe to turn down a press-fit insert for the time when I messed up and milled something backwards. I'm also using it to make an adapter that will let me drive the table on the mill up and down with a power drill rather than a huge crank. I personally think milling machines are more useful and less dangerous than lathes, but there's still a lot you can do with them. I suppose you could use the lathe to turn bushings, if that's your gig.
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Apr 20, 2015 04:20
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I just broke the cardinal rule of toolbuying and got an 8 gallon Harbor Freight air compressor. This one: http://www.harborfreight.com/8-gal-2-hp-125-psi-oil-lube-air-compressor-69667.html It's for my hackerspace, and we wanted to stay around a hundred bucks. We put oil in it and ran it through the break in (run for 30 minutes with the valves open). Now it looks like the drain valve at the bottom is broken. It won't close. It screws and unscrews, but air just comes out. I have a warranty on the compressor, but it's a minimum of 1.5 hours driving to and from the nearest Harbor Freight. Is there a cheap drain valve I can order on Amazon that I can pop in there? e. Looks like yes. Will this work? http://www.amazon.com/PowerMate-Vx-072-0001RP-Drain-Valve/dp/B008JVM5JG/ref=pd_sim_469_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=07HGGDMMQ2WA4XACYYQE Safety Dance fucked around with this message at 05:10 on Aug 6, 2015 |
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Aug 6, 2015 05:08
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tonedef131 posted:The first thing I do when I get a new compressor is take off the drain cock and throw it away. They are hard to reach and get stuck all the time. I put a brass elbow in place of it with a brass nipple as long as it takes to get to the outside of the tank, then a ball valve. This makes it so easy to drain that you can do it every time you're done using it. This is a good idea, but I'd rather not have a little brass lever sticking out of the bottom of the portable compressor, just begging to get caught on something and crack the tank.
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Aug 6, 2015 15:56
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Definite derail but linked from the Williams sockets: USMC themed sockets! What better way to say "Semper Fi" than by turning a wrench? http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GPVJQ94?psc=1
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Aug 7, 2015 21:05
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PBCrunch posted:All of the mobile electronics installers I have been around greatly prefer butane soldering irons over electric. The portability and instant heat are really nice attributes. Power Probe makes some good ones. They should really be using crimps over solders for vehicle wiring harnesses.
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Sep 18, 2015 17:23
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There must be no slack!
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Sep 18, 2015 17:55
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Motronic posted:Twice as bad as water so......yes? So you're saying I should fill my brake lines with mercury, and just deal with the fact that it's a solid on the coldest days of winter.
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Sep 21, 2015 00:44
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Tomarse posted:Good crimping tools are really loving expensive. And then there's the Harbor Freight hydraulic crimper, which is so heavy I basically maneuver it into position and build the splice around it.
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Sep 21, 2015 15:44
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Actually, that reminds me of something I've been wondering -- how should you use ratcheting crimpers? I was using a pair once, and I discovered that I had to fiddle with the mechanism to get them open again. Is this right, or was I doing something wrong?
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Sep 21, 2015 16:24
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I'm willing to bet I was using too small a crimper in that case. I was putting my whole weight into it.
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Sep 21, 2015 16:49
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OSU_Matthew posted:This is possibly one of the dumbest questions I could ask, but I was hoping someone here could help me. I'm looking for a 3/8 ratcheting screwdriver, something I could schlep a socket on and quickly run nuts in with, to then torque down with a regular or flex ratchet. A swivel head ratchet is what you want. E.g. http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-1491-Quick-Release-Ratchet-72-Tooth/dp/B00A50NB1K
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Sep 25, 2015 17:52
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The 3/8" equivalent is $68, which is still less than half of the Snap On price. http://www.amazon.com/Wera-Zyklop-Ratchet-Square-Socket/dp/B003KN3GKK/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1443207959&sr=1-5&keywords=zyklops+3%2F8
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Sep 25, 2015 20:08
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If you don't abuse them and check their calibration every year or so, the Harbor Freight torque wrenches are a great value for the money.
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Sep 25, 2015 21:30
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Google Butt posted:How about that $80 harbor freight chop saw? I'd have HD cut them down, but I'd like to have the ability to make my own cuts just in case. It's a good option, but you could get equally good or better for cheaper on your local Craigslist probably.
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Sep 30, 2015 15:42
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scuz posted:This weekend is the weekend of Torque Wrench. The engine needs to get worked on and I can't do that without a way of not loving up the reassembly. Few questions for those in the knows: - No - Click style torque wrenches are good. I *think* there are some procedures that require a beam style torque wrench, but I don't know what those are - A middlin' compressor and a middlin' air impact will run you about $250-300. A halfway decent battery powered impact will start around $300.
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Oct 9, 2015 20:25
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I (by which I mean the hackerspace I run) just got a Shoptask 17-20 XTMC for free, from an older guy moving to Thailand. It's mostly complete, major exceptions being: - The intermediate pulley between the mill motor and the drawbar went missing somewhere on IL route 20 in Elgin, IL. - The fan for the mill motor rubs a little bit on the enclosure for the lathe pulleys - The spring pin that holds the X axis handle in pace is missing - Needs a 3 jaw chuck - The belts are a little crusty, and could stand to be replaced - Missing pieces for the quill autofeed (not that I really care) - Missing a bolt for the tailstock gib (The two that are there seem to be working fine, though) In addition to that, I'd really like to get a VFD and some digital scales on it for speed control and DRO. Does anyone know of a manual / parts list / source of obsessive documentation about one of these machines? I've done some googling around, and haven't found anything authoritative. Safety Dance fucked around with this message at 06:26 on Oct 11, 2015 |
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Oct 11, 2015 06:23
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| # ¿ May 16, 2024 10:37 |
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I wonder how well it would stand up to having a MIG welder toolhead.
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Oct 11, 2015 20:04
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