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Platystemon posted:Do tool manufacturers still lie and list the amp‐hours as if the batteries were in parallel but the voltage as though they are in series? That depends entirely on the manufacturer but for most major tool manufacturers, no. Most 18650 cells are 3.7V (around 4V when charged hence being called 18 or 20V depending who's selling the battery pack with 5 in series), and they tend to be 1.5 Ah to 3 Ah depending on quality. My 4Ah 20V Ryobi battery has 10 3.7V cells in it, which is two sets of 5 series batteries that are in parallel so they are around 20V fully charged and they hope the cells are good for 2 Ah each which is a decent midrange 18650. The 1.6Ah battery packs are only 5 cells and they have to be lovely because they drain quickly. The blatant misrepresentation of amp hours I see most often is on ebay listings for 18650 cells where they'll claim each one is 3000 mAh or that four of them are 10 Ah because maybe they might be if they were run in parallel but they make it seem like each one is going to be 10 amp hours. For example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/18650-Batt...2pnwg:rk:9:pf:0 I'm sure each of those is 1500 mAh or less.
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Nov 26, 2018 05:45
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eddiewalker posted:My main interest is the heat shrink capabilities. I see 100ft packs of printable 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2” 3:1 cartridges for like $15 and that sounds really nice for classing up wiring projects. This guy figured out how to get the labels working on an inexpensive label maker (essentially you tape over some of the holes in the cartridge to tell it to not mirror the text and to allow it to work in that machine): https://hackaday.com/2019/08/14/print-your-own-heat-shrink-labels-for-factory-chic-wire-naming/
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Aug 22, 2019 04:54
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South Main Auto uses the Astro lights so I got one for my friend for xmas a couple of years ago (40SL). He likes it. I think harbor freight has a $10-15 knock off of it but bigclive did a teardown of both and found that it wasn't as well made. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RB6_T5Eq8uk
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Oct 31, 2020 10:02
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MrOnBicycle posted:Getting a good soldering iron and being able to desolder / solder stuff is on my "to do"-list. From my research, the TS100 and now, even better I think TS80 soldering irons seem to get very good reviews. There are kits that provides power supply units. I have one of the cheap ones from Circuit Specialists. It's likely the same as an ebay cheapy but at least there's a company to get in touch with if I have problems. I doubt that's recommended, but it's what I did: https://www.circuitspecialists.com/csi-power-supplies It's fine for my rinky dink projects so far. The times I've needed more voltage or more amps have been few and most of those projects need some kind of dedicated supply. I also dropped it off a table a couple of times and so far no explosion.
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Nov 23, 2020 06:59
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ryanrs posted:Which ratcheting wrench brand is good? I want ones that look like a normal combo wrench (one end open, shallow angle on the box end), with a direction switch (not flip the wrench over). I've got some Gearwrench ones that are fine. I don't have many others to compare them to but if you want ones with levers to change direction the keyword is Reversible it seems. https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=reversible+ratcheting+wrench
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Feb 24, 2021 12:12
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Most chargers will only charge if the voltage drops low enough, although it may not be a bad idea to contain lipos in a metal box or lipo bag. I've been considering moving things to a charging shelf or cabinet that's metal in the vein of a flammable materials cabinet. Generally tool batteries are pretty safe but I think Tremek's (?) garage fire was suspected to have been started by one. I had one issue with a charger that was from the 90s but luckily the batteries were nicad (2.4V milwaukee) so it just started to cook them and I smelled it. It turned out that we had had a power outage and after the power came back it decided to charge the battery again for some reason. I don't know if those chargers were less smart about voltage levels back in the day but with the AC power being inconsistent I can't put the blame anything in particular.
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Jul 7, 2021 22:21
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tangy yet delightful posted:Would this be good for some light sheet metal cutting (home use, not a contractor)? That thing is basically a battery powered dremel (rotary tool). Whether it's appropriate for cutting sheet steel is going to depend how much you have to cut and how you need to cut it. You can cut sheet metal with a rotary tool but it's slow since they use small discs. You can cut sheet metal with an angle grinder and a cutting disc and it's faster but can be easy to make it messy if you're not really careful. You're also limited by the size of the disc. A rotary tool is good for making smallish holes that don't start at an edge. You can drill some holes and make some straight cuts with it to open up square holes for example. I've got this kind of cut off wheel for the dremel and it's been good for small stuff. They don't tend to explode like the tiny cut off wheels and last a lot longer so I feel it's worth the price in comparison: https://smile.amazon.com/Dremel-EZ406-02-Cut-Off-Mandrel-Cutting/dp/B000FBLRVA/ I've got some cut off wheels for the angle grinder and it's been quick to go through pipe and stuff (mostly working on my exhaust). I think mine are dewalt but I'm not sure if they're the best choice, it's just what I picked up: https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=angle+grinder+cutting+wheel&crid=3SX1RBRVV66F9 I'd also consider hand tools depending on your budget. I use tin snips pretty often for long cuts but sometimes a metal nibbler is good, too. They do make powered nibblers which probably make your hands ache a lot less but tend to be pricey: https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=tin+snips https://smile.amazon.com/ProsKit-900-215-Nibbler/dp/B000BN60XW/ All that said, having a rotary tool on hand is great. I've used them properly and improperly to remove and fix all kinds of nonsense, usually involving rusted fasteners.
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Aug 26, 2021 09:46
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I've picked up some factory seconds/blemished or refurbished Ryobi stuff from https://www.directtoolsoutlet.com/ when they're having sales and it's all been like new so far. Even a couple of big batteries (4Ah I think) for $55 or so, I think it was a BOGO deal. For my occasional use they've been fine and the batteries are holding up so far. I think the main Ryobi tool I spent "real" money for was the brushless hammer drill for a little over $100 with another 4Ah battery and fast charger. Stand out tools from the 7 tool kit were the dust buster, hot glue gun, and reciprocating saw. The latter isn't super strong but I just use it for cutting up branches in the yard, mostly. The only tool that sucked from the kit was the flashlight, it's terrible. They may have a different model now. Anyway I think I've spent $400 on Ryobi stuff and nothing has really let me down yet.
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Sep 1, 2021 20:09
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KidDynamite posted:What is a good wet dry vac that won’t die when your basement floods? Father-in-laws Rigid died today after I mostly dried out my basement and then went to help my parents. Also getting like a 14 gallon because gently caress emptying that thing every 30 seconds. I used a Genie 16 gallon today to suck up the flood water in the basement coming in through the walls. It says 5HP but I don't think that's possible with the amount of power you can get from a 120V outlet. Works well until the water gets to the bottom of the filter (by design) so I turned it off when it started choking out. That was right about where the hose enters the unit. I'm guessing I got it about half full each time I emptied it and it's heavy with 8 gallons in it but I tipped half into another bucket and took two trips to dump it. Only thing I'd say is to make sure you have hearing protection with it. I don't mean it as a suggestion, I blame some of my tinnitus to running this thing in a flooded basement before so now I keep some ear pro on top of it. Also helps drown out the water alarms. I can't seem to find this model online since it's pretty old but Project Farm has a good video comparing modern ones: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hSN7PXwn1yU
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Sep 2, 2021 06:24
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Project farm liked the Craftsman shop vac and said the Bauer is the best value for the dollar but pointed out it only has a 90 day warranty which he's not a fan of. It also depends what you're picking up: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hSN7PXwn1yU
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Nov 11, 2021 20:58
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Clamp tite is a bit expensive. Time to go all out in the shop and make your own (I bought the $30 one at some point but haven't given anything the clamps yet). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mRc7ZDRcgrQ
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Nov 12, 2021 20:24
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I have a Pinecil and it's nice. I use it with a power bank or a USB-C PD charger. Shipping took a little while since it was coming from China but it's been really solid so far. It heats up a lot faster than my old soldering station and the display is clear. I don't love the two button interface but it's workable especially since I'm usually just setting the temperature I want.
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Feb 1, 2023 01:17
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mobby_6kl posted:Has anyone seen the Pencil actually in stock? It's not on that site I linked and doesn't seem to exist on aliexpress. I've used a few of those $5 USB ones and they're fine for being portable and heat up quick but they have no kind of good temp control, and yeah, the capacitive switch is awful. I got my Pincecil in March of 2021 from Pine64, so it was in stock then, but I haven't tried to buy one recently. Ameridroid has some in stock, presumably in the US (they seem to have a store in CA), but they're $38 instead of $25. https://ameridroid.com/products/pinecil-v2-soldering-iron
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Feb 1, 2023 14:20
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thing as well. It works fine from a regular USB-A, really its only problem is the annoying capacitive switch which can be replaced however.
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bolind posted:Buddy borrowed my jack and liked it so much he basically asked me how much I wanted for it. An upgrade is not out of the question. What’s a decent portable-ish jack that’s a good compromise between small size and decent lifting height? I keep a 1.5T harbor freight aluminum racing jack in the trunk of my Jetta, I don't trust the one leg scissor jack it came with for poo poo since it rolled off of it once (fortunately the wheel was sitting in the wheel well so it ended up not being too bad, bent the fender up a little). It was around $70 but the price varies, there's frequent sales. Also some little 2T jack stands and wheel chocks. The lift height isn't amazing but you can add some wood or get third party accessories to increase the height if you need it. https://www.harborfreight.com/autom...pump-64545.html Never used them myself but I've seen these on youtube: https://www.911motorsports.net/Floor-Jack-Extension_p_77.html There's a 2T as well that's a little bigger, as well as 2.5 and 3T in increasing size and price. The 3T Daytona is what I have in the garage, I got the low profile one since it lifts a little higher for $20 more (I think it was $189 and the normal 3T was $169 at the time). The jetta isn't heavy enough to need the 3T jack but I do some work on my dad's jeep which is.
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Apr 6, 2023 21:17
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Wistful of Dollars posted:So Amazon left a cordless grease gun at my front door. Sometimes there's sellers just trying to put fake reviews on their items by shipping random stuff to people, sometimes someone screwed up at a warehouse. Amazon has a reporting thing if you want to let them know: https://www.amazon.com/gp/help/customer/display.html?nodeId=G33XVXQPUV79Z2ZC You don't need to return it.
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Nov 8, 2023 01:16
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Powershift posted:Obviously a long shot but does anybody recognize what this logo could have been? It's a 10 or 20 ton long chassis floor jack. I can't really tell from the sticker but I spent a while looking at google images for lots of jacks and the construction of the rear with the bolt placement, wheel placement, and the flat bar on the back make it look like an OTC or American Forge 20T jack. OTC makes blue jacks now but there's some reconditioned ones or older listings in silver. American Forge has the same or extremely similar designs sold in red. Current: https://www.otctools.com/products/20-ton-service-jack Reconditioned, presumably a slightly older style: https://www.phjjacks.com/merchant/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=phj&Product_Code=OTC-1511+-+Recon&Category_Code= Older listings with a slightly different build but OTC, presumably new, silver color: https://www.toolsource.com/service-jacks-c-1401_388/hydraulic-service-jack-20-ton-p-129655.html https://www.garageautoequipment.com/OTC-OTC1512-p/otc1512.htm?Click=1016&utm_source=GoogleShopping&utm_medium=shoppingengine American Forge. Looks almost the same, could be made on the same line, but painted red: https://www.tillmantools.com/American-Forge-3140-20-Ton-Hydraulic-Service-Jack-p/aff3140.htm Anyway, none of these seem exactly right but the pictures were cropped kind of close. The OTC listings with silver paint seem pretty close. It could also be that someone slapped a sticker on, or maybe someone rebranded it to sell.
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Jan 3, 2024 00:56
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Powershift posted:Thanks, that's about what i found, too. I can't find any with wheels/castors that beefy. I would imagine most come out of the same 3 factories, but with the strong-arm brand jacks the Japanese and Chinese built ones are quite a bit different. Yeah, I'm gonna guess OTC 1512 due to the paint, but I see the Strongarm 030438 and the American Forge I linked are very similar parts with different colored paint. The angles on the caster supports and the angle on the bottom of the unit itself seem to match up although some pictures have a bend on the bottom of the sides and some don't. Might have been a revision. The sticker is a mystery!
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Jan 3, 2024 01:24
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Colostomy Bag posted:^Nice. There's a lot of tricks for network cable installs. First you've got long slightly flexible drill bits for trying to get through joists or floors from adjacent areas or the walls above. It can be difficult but the idea is to make the hole and fish the string you're using to pull your wire through with these if you can: https://www.amazon.com/Installer-Drill-Auger-Style-16inch/dp/B08MLJ2LZV/ You can also just make your holes with a regular drill bit and use either fish tape (springy metal in a roll you can pull through) or a set of fiberglass rods that screw together to the length you need. I've got both in my network running tools setup: https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-56331-Optimized-Housing/dp/B081TVR4N7/ https://www.amazon.com/Fiberglass-Running-Electrical-Different-Attachments/dp/B0B38KV7BQ/ It's usually handy to pull through some string and follow that with the wire but it depends how tight things are. I usually end up taping stuff to the fish tool so it doesn't get loose while pulling. When you want to terminate your runs you should consider a central location near your network equipment (switch, router) to have a patch panel and then some wall jacks for where the runs terminate in the rooms. I've had pretty good luck with either baseboard mount ethernet jacks for the latter or keystone style jacks for the patch panel or wall plates. You can put in low voltage boxes (more of a frame really) in your walls to secure the front plate of a wall jack if you go that way (these ones have the little wings spin out and then tighten to the back of the wall as you turn the screws): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NJGL3QZ/ I don't remember what brand of baseboard mount boxes I got but these are similar: https://www.amazon.com/VCELINK-Surface-Compatible-Stranded-Network/dp/B09MCDV9WJ/ For keystone stuff I've used Cable Matters stuff and Monoprice, they seem to work okay, I haven't had much trouble running a few dozen runs with their products: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IO3HEN6/ https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005E2YCNA/ If you're buying a lot of stuff at once there's usually bulk discounts on monoprice's website: https://www.monoprice.com/category/pages/3 To punch down into the keystone jacks you want a 110 punch down tool. They're pretty cheap, I have one on my multitool but this one's probably fine. The pointy side severs the wire on the outside of the punch down: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Punch-Down-Blade/dp/B0072K1QHM/ It's worthwhile to have at least a cheap cable tester to make sure your runs are good before you button everything up, too. I've had cable be bad right off the roll but also get damaged during install pulls. One of the cheap ones is usually fine for this, they're like $10-15. Lastly there's a home networking thread that may be helpful if you run into issues: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3442319
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Apr 4, 2024 20:14
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Catatron Prime posted:I'm looking to pick up a cordless buffing tool for automotive waxing. I'm deep into the Makita ecosystem, but theirs is way too expensive for my light duty needs. I briefly looked at hazard fraught's 18v tools, but man, but after seeing their battery prices I realized that it might just be better to buy into the Ryobi ecosystem with their 10 inch buffer. That's a pretty good deal. A lot of us buy Ryobi from Direct Tools Outlet who seem to frequently have sales or deals and often sell factory blemished products that look brand new. I don't think they have a big sale right now but they do have some tools that include a battery and charger, like the buffer: https://www.directtoolsoutlet.com/product/PCL465K1 Obviously buying it from them for $120 + shipping and waiting a couple of weeks may not be preferable to going to home depot and getting it now with two batteries for $160, but it's an option. I can't speak for the quality of their buffer, I haven't used it.
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Apr 16, 2024 22:36
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