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mod sassinator posted:Can anyone comment on a random orbit wax/polish tool like this Harbor Freight one? Can they damage the finish if you're not careful or are they less powerful than more professional buffing tools? This weekend I want to clay bar, polish, and put a couple coats of wax on my car. I'd love if a power tool can save me some pain with the polish and wax. I have a Simioniz version of the same thing, and it will not damage your paint. It doesn't spin like a real buffer, and is really only good for rubbing off wax. It would take an awful long time for you to do any damage to your paint. If you want to just use it so you don't have to rub so much when taking the wax off, it will work.
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Mar 5, 2009 23:26
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RealKyleH posted:I have heard nothing but BAD things about the HF orange heat gun. Apparently its one of the stay away from things. Mine works fine, in that I used it 3 times to heat some shrink wrap and then it sits on the shelf and makes me not have to buy a more expensive one. If you are just using it for a little bit, then its fine.
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Mar 13, 2009 23:43
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No falling apart yet, I will report back if it does when I try to use it to strip some furniture.
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Mar 13, 2009 23:59
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I need a 8X10 Shed, and think I want one of those tent ones. I can get one for $230 from canadian tire, but I hate buying things from Canadian Tire that aren't on sale. I can't seem to find any in the states that aren't either 10x20 car ports, or the cheezeball camping ones. Any hints? I can order a 10x10 one from walmart US for $200, but maybe I would be better off just getting the local one.
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Dec 14, 2009 23:38
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I would like to buy a welder soon, and wonder were the best place to buy one is. I am in canada, so there might be way higher prices here then down in the states, but where to I start comparing? I am looking for a 220v mig, have around 1500 cdn for the whole kit, welder, autodarkening helmet and cart. Don't really need the 220v, but I only want to buy 1 welder and friends have needed more than their 120 can put out. Most of what it would be used for is sheetmetal, and maybe a Locost frame if I ever get off my rear end. I was thinking I should just pony up and get a miller next time they go on sale for $1k or so, but are there any new options I should be looking for? Is the autoset and all that worth more? I think the last one I looked at was a miller 180, are there new/better options? What should I be looking to spend on one of those? I am wary of used welders because I have seen how people use them, and I am kind of lazy when it comes down to calling someone and driving to their house to be the first one to pick up a good deal.
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Mar 19, 2010 20:51
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frozenphil posted:Licoln or Miller. Don't bother with anything else. You really don't need to worry about any features or anything for what you're looking to do. Just compare duty cycle and you'll be set. http://www.weldingmart.com/item/Millermatic_180_AUTOSET_W/RUN_GEAR/CYL_RACK:230V_60HZ_1PH/2281 Just something like that? Is there a harbor freight for welders? Here in canada we have KMS and Princess auto, plus the welding stores. I guess the next step is go into the welding stores and see if they will give me a deal.
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Mar 19, 2010 21:00
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frozenphil posted:Yeah, I actually edited my post above with that welder. It's a drat good piece that will do whatever you're willing to tackle in your garage. Yeah, I will probably go with one of those. I was just wondering if there was a cheap place to buy them, but I guess I will just google around. Thanks.
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Mar 19, 2010 22:46
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ExplodingSims posted:A bit of a shameless bump, but I'm trying to set up a meeting with both sellers of those welders, and I need to know which would be the better deal? What is a set of regulators and a tank cost where you live? Fluxcore will work but it sucks because you have to clean the flux off all the welds you do. Shielding gas works better. I think I paid $200 for my tank, so I would buy that lincoln instead. It also looks newer and treated better. It will work fine for sheet metal. As far as going low enough, they will go low enough just fine, and you can switch to thinner wire if you work on 22 gauge japanese cars like I do. I have a miller 180, which is the 220v version of those two. I just decided to splurge because no one sells used welders for anything less then 90% of new, even if they are old and lovely.
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Dec 6, 2010 23:25
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ExplodingSims posted:Well, I was thinking the Lincoln was a better deal, if only because it came with a tank. I need to do some welding on a older 50s car with some somewhat thick metal. No heavy body work, just floorpans. Should that one suffice? Ya it will be fine. Just don't expect it to weld 1/2" steel very well. they will be fine up to 1/8" plate or 1/4" or whatever they say. Basically anything that is made of sheet metal can be welded with a 120v mig.
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Dec 8, 2010 18:24
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CatBus posted:I ordered one of these this morning, and thought someone else here might be interested in the deal (4 piece Milwaukee M18 reconditioned tool set: $279 shipped): I also hope it doesn't suck as I bought one as well.
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Nov 25, 2011 22:56
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I just bought the harbor frieght one for $379, the US general base. So far, its pretty good. Solid, and the rollers work well. Each drawer has a piece of foam in it so you don't need to buy a bunch of foam/felt just to start loading it up. I bent the castors a bit getting it out of the truck, but thats because it was 300 lbs and I was doing it myself. It just makes it tilty a bit when you are rolling it around. It doesn't effect much else, and it will probably bend itself back straight when I finish loading it up with 2k lbs of tools.
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Dec 13, 2011 21:43
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I am getting annoyed with making cuts in metal with my angle grinder because they end up sucking. I want a bandsaw but can't find a reasonable one used on craigslist. Is the harbor freight one my best bang for the buck? They are now $229 onsale, $300 regular. http://www.harborfreight.com/horizontal-vertical-metal-cutting-bandsaw-93762.html Other people mention $150, and I could wait, but I am pretty impatient.
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Jan 4, 2012 00:54
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Lord Gaga posted:This goes on sale for $179 sometimes which makes it 150ish with the 20% off. This is how I got mine. I am happy with it though the HF blades are not very good and the saw is not good by an industrial standard but beats the poo poo out of a sawzall. I'm just going to be cutting some angle iron and bits and pieces for now, but I want to be able to make decent cuts to do the roll cage in the rx7. Also I have used my friends one, and his chop saw. Much happier with the bandsaw. Ill have to keep a lookout for the coupons to come out i guess.
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Jan 4, 2012 21:13
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I hope you are going to use all those to weld together and make some sort of super compass.
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Mar 4, 2012 02:49
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That will be fine. I use most air tools on my 5 gallon HOTROD compressor, which is some $99 junky thing. I just have a really low duty cycle on the tools while you wait for it to refill.
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Jul 19, 2012 17:24
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CatBus posted:Does anyone have any experience/opinions on wideband air/fuel ratio stand alone setups? I am considering this one: I bought the AEM UEGO because it doesn't need calibration. The innovate has "ability to calibrate" as a feature, but to me, thats a failure. The manual for the innovate says "must be calibrated often" and "must be in free air" in that you have to take the sensor out. Pass.
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Feb 4, 2013 20:46
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BrokenKnucklez posted:In a better help to update my body repair thread, I want to include some common used tools in body repair that most DIY auto repair people commonly have and a few tools that are a "must have". I have the harbor freight stud gun, an electric d/a sander, the thing that makes the little crimp so you don't have to butt weld, and an air board sander. the d/a sander is the most useful one, with the crimpery thing next.
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Feb 14, 2013 18:30
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TrueChaos posted:Am I wrong in thinking that this would probably be fine for what I want? Also Canadian tire branded stuff is junk, but if you aren't expecting it to have any torque, it will be fine. I have a milwaukee impact driver I use for wheels. I break the nuts with the breaker bar, zip off with impact driver, torque on with torque wrench.
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Jun 17, 2013 20:52
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I have the recondition units from northern tools and they were great. A little scratched up and they had some engravings on them from the factory, but id recommend them. M18 drill, driver, sawzall, and light.
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Aug 8, 2013 01:47
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Is there a good write up on how to sharpen drill bits? Do you need a drill doctor?
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Jan 16, 2014 18:23
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The worst part is its just starting amps. Since you can't run more than a 1 hp motor on a 120 15A circuit anyways, they use the inrush to call it 5.5hp. Real 5.5 hp at 120V is more like 50 A. They should just use air watts. Which is airflow x suction. So no one would actually use it as it really measures the effectiveness of the vacuum instead of how crappy the motor is at starting.
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Feb 21, 2014 18:34
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Ive done the same thing with concrete and my 18V milwaukee. It works fine, only do 1 bag at a time in a 5 gallon pail. Also remember, mix to water, not water to mix (did it the other way once and it sucked). The paddle I have looks like a paddle, not a twist.
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Apr 25, 2014 19:47
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Pressure bleeders are awful. All they are there for is to spread brake fluid all over your paint, your house, and probably your mouth. Plus some time with abs, you have to bleed it properly with the pedal anyways, or a valve closes and no fluid comes out. I just get my wife to press the brake. If you don't have a wife, um, craigslist for a brake pusher? m4bp - looking for someone to press the brakes on my car
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May 16, 2014 21:00
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Fair enough. I am probably just useless with the speedibleed (borrowed from a friend, who also found it blew fluid everywhere). I found the biggest problem was it was supposed to hook up to the tire to get pressure, and the regulator just ramped up to 50psi. At 50 psi, the cap blew off, and all the fluid that was in the tank spewed all over. So maybe I should change my dislike to "pressure bleeders with broken regulators borrowed from "friends"" Luckily I loaned it away and refused to take it back from the next guy.
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May 16, 2014 22:00
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The 50 psi was what the tire was at when I hooked it up. Seems like an easy solution until the regulator didn't work. I screwed it all the way down, until the spring fell off, and it still would go to 15 as the lowest. Which was still enough for the cap to blow off and spray fluid everywhere. Maybe the next guy will toss the whole thing out, that probably would help the whole problem. It had the fancy machined adapter tops, but they weren't exactly the right ones. The GM ones that clamped around the reservoir probably worked. The one I used screwed onto the plastic of my subaru.
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May 16, 2014 22:22
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I went through the same thing looking for a searing torch, and ended up with one of the new swirl type torches, I think I even got the ts-839. They are pistol style, so way easier to hold. They are hotter, and send out a more consistent flame than the old style, with the little blue lump in the middle of the orange flame. Here is the comparison I read before I went to the store. http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?48365-Propane-Torch-Comparison It starts with one click, on low it is good for making creme brulees, and you don't have to tilt it so the flame goes out. Only issue is cost, but its totally worth 5 of the normal torches.
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Jul 22, 2014 18:45
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:I'm looking for a wire wheel for my grinder that won't throw wires all over my loving garage. Does such an animal exist? The ones where the wires are twisted together seem to stay together. When the wire wears down, it breaks at the bend, so instead of large pieces you just get dust size pieces. They also seem to last way longer, but then of course they don't deform and bend into the piece you are grinding. If thats what you are trying to do, then you just need longer gloves and thicker pants.
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Mar 16, 2015 17:34
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One feature of the HF (and probably the other aluminum jacks) is that the handle makes an excellent breaker bar. So im always taking it out of the jack so I can slip it over a ratchet. I also had a goodyear steel jack that got used 3 times and put on craigslist because it was way too heavy. The aluminum jack does bend a little bit when in use due to the slant of the driveway, but thats user error more than anything.
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Feb 10, 2016 23:47
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I bought this one http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Y75M/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=6KIY54X0M4NU&coliid=I14WXVQ4S3MQAY&psc=1 from the last time we talked about gas cans, and my non-vented one vented all over my station wagon. at least with the vented ones, when fumes came out the vent it just smelled a little. when the non-vented ones get used, the rubber wears out on the spout, and then it vents liquid all over the car. The eagle one seems it will just push up on the seal and burp. however, the funnel is a little hard to put on/off, will see how that holds up. edit: get the ones above me, thats way better without the funnel. drat it ive already spent my too much money for gas cans this year.
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Feb 12, 2016 17:42
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mod sassinator posted:If it's a wiring fix in a car, consider using these butt connectors that have solder & grease inside: http://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Solder-Shrink-Connectors-Soldering/dp/B00ESXX74G They make an excellent watertight connection and are actually what Mercedes requires for their wiring repairs vs. direct soldering of the wires. You only need a heat gun to melt the solder, so any junky butane soldering iron with a hot air attachment (look at Harbor Freight) will work. Do you crimp those? or just melt them on?
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Mar 31, 2016 20:25
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Motive/pressure bleeders: I borrowed one and it had a ton of adapters etc for each car. it was the kind that hooked into your tire for air pressure. I didn't manage to actually open a bleeder because by the time I pressurized it and climbed down to the caliper, the cap blew off and the fluid I had put in the reservoir had blown all over the car, house, and driveway. The guy I borrowed it from didn't want it back. I lent it to someone, and kept forgetting to pick it up, hopefully they donated it to someone else. The point of this story is of course user error, but don't put fluid in the tank until you have tested the caps with no fluid to make sure they won't blow off and you get to spend hours cleaning fluid off all your painted surfaces and you engine. The adapter cap damaged the threads on the master reservoir too. I also found that vacuum bleeding doesn't work on some ABS systems either, because it suctions the abs valve closed and you don't ever pull any fluid. Best bleeding is pedal bleeding (and caliper bleeding to get the bubbles out of there).
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Jul 13, 2016 20:08
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:I rented a buffer from Home Depot over the weekend. You may want to use the $15, or a craigslist special. I suspect most grinders will be dead after inhaling concrete dust. When I used my circular saw to cut some concrete blocks totaling maybe 4 ft of cut, it ground the bearings out now it rattles when you let go of the switch. If you can get a bosch on sale for $30 or something that would be great. I have 2 of them, and they have lasted years. Plus if it breaks, no big deal.
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Sep 8, 2016 19:39
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Seminal Flu posted:Do not point it at anything that you do not intend to destroy. http://heleta.com/ Pretty sure thats one that has been thrown around, only remember it because it looks like a font.
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Nov 2, 2016 18:11
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monsterzero posted:Horror Fraught is the best nickname. I am a big fan of the cheap bosch ones, spin just fine and have lasted many years.
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May 2, 2017 20:07
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I have a BE pressure washer (BE317RA) and it has a plastic oil sight glass. I was trying to be a good owner and change the pump oil, and I inadvertently overtightened the glass after draining the oil. The threads snapped off the screw, and all the oil leaked out. I bought these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G9CSJ1A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and they fit, and worked for about an hour until they snapped off again. This parts page doesn't show the glass (its on the other side) http://www.ppe-pressure-washer-parts.com/ar-rmv-pressure-washer-pump-parts What do I buy so I don't get a plastic piece of crap again? I want one of the brass ones with a real glass, but don't know what actual size/pitch is for the hole. The amazon ones screwed in, so its probably close. I am not sure if the plastic was just really bad and made it crack this time. All the mcmaster-carr ones are standard thread/npt of some flavour. Any ideas? The canadian listing for those things says they are 3/8 pt. Which makes sense I guess. Im going to order some from mcmaster I guess. blindjoe fucked around with this message at 18:59 on Sep 27, 2017 |
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Sep 27, 2017 16:42
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BraveUlysses posted:http://toolguyd.com/zoro-25-flash-sale-on-tools-machining-092717/ Just bought the 3 set. https://www.zoro.com/knipex-plier-wrench-set-ergonomic-3-pcs-9k-00-80-45-us/i/G4784726/ Out of stock but good deal for $122
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Sep 27, 2017 18:55
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Whats a good price for a Milwaukee M12 drill, or where do you look for deals? I have a ridgid 12v drill that I could hand down, and I want one of the cordless tire inflators. I already have M18, so I figure I could stay in the milwaukee brand. Other option is to go with Ryobi to get their inflator, but then I would have another set of big batteries. I want battery yard tools and mower, but I am debating getting the Stihl ones. Basically I don't know what I want and everything is too expensive to just go impulse buy. Knowing things are on sale would influence what I did a lot.
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May 24, 2018 04:33
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slothrop posted:If you already have Milwaukee m18 the nice thing about sticking with them is the m18 charger also does m12. It’s a small thing but that’s nice. I certainly have no complaints about my m12 brushless drill/driver combo. How does the M12 fit on an M18? it looks like it should be separate dock that the battery slides into, like my ridgid? the M18 slides in, maybe I have an older charger? E: I think I see now that the new chargers have both slots. Mine is old so it doesn't have the M12 slot. Ended up getting a cordless trimmer, big battery, charger and blower for $270. Has nothing to do with an M12, but its cheaper than the stihl by a long shot. Doesn't get me a lawnmower but oh well. Now to keep trolling the deals forum for the M12 stuff. blindjoe fucked around with this message at 17:34 on May 24, 2018 |
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May 24, 2018 16:31
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Also avoid the one with the motor that pops off to become a leaf blower. And don't let the filter come off the mount a bit, so all the dust goes into the motor. The bearings will start howling after a few minutes. I use a Dust Deputy on a 5 gallon bucket, which then goes to the shop vac (the leaf blower one, its not great but not bad enough to replace). The shop vac has a hepa filter main filter, and I buy the bags. Drywall dust ends up settling a bit in the bucket, then the bag ends up with a bit, and the Hepa filter remains mostly clean. The bucket also catches the large derbis so the bag doesn't fill up too often.
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Nov 27, 2018 22:00
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StormDrain posted:I just noticed the Milwaukee leaf blower and trimmer (weed whacker) at Home Depot recently. They're way too expensive but also I neeeeed them. Leaf blower works OK, I have the kit and use the blower (with a mini battery from the drill) for my 2 and 4 year old to "help". If I bought it to actually do something, I would be a bit disappointed. Its probably 1/2 as powerful as my plug-in toro vac and blow. Weed Whacker is great for trimming, not good for clearing blackberry vines and stuff (what you would put one of those death blades on a Stihl for). My local facebook market place has lots of batteries for sale, I think people must steal them or something, but they are a reasonable good deal. Now that I have a 9 ah battery, I want to get the circular saw, and really wish they made a red mower, so I didn't have buy a yellow one or a Stihl one.
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Apr 16, 2019 00:26
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