Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

Splizwarf posted:

gently caress this wind chill below zero poo poo, someone recommend their favorite jump box. With a meaty on/off switch please.

I managed to pick up a 300A Stanely jumpit, seems to work OK, although it loses a lot of power due to being cold just sitting in my trunk.

I am thinking of tearing the thing apart and replacing the sealed leadacid battery with a few lithium polymer packs.

Should do better in subzero temps.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

Someone correct me if my math is wrong:

So cranking on it and smacking it with a hammer puts out about 400 newton meters.

400 NM / 1.355 = 295 Ft-LB of torque, (or pound-foots, whatever)

which is the equivalent of a 73 pound person putting their weight on a 48" breaker bar. Just weight. Not even pushing on it.

400 NM isn't a lot for a breaker. The ingersoll rand air-driven impact at my shop supposedly puts out about 475 NM (350ftlb).

So I guess if you have room to swing the hammer, and have room in your toolbox for both that thing and the hammer, it's p. nifty.

Unless I'm misunderstanding and the torque scales up as you put more force on the handle?

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

Dear AI tools thread,

Universal Spline sockets/wrenches:

New hotness, or over-hyped crap?

fake edit: bought a cheapo set from HF to test, will report when I get some time with them.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

Snap-On calls them "Flank Drive". I don't know what other companies call it.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

Holy jesus please use a proper respirator and goggles, especially marine paint. that poo poo is nasty.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

Anphear posted:

Such a spectacular deal. Wonder why they snapon man let it go for so little money.



Because he gave the guy who traded it in 400 in credit.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

I think the tools thread in DIY & Hobbies is currently discussing Milwaukee battery powered impacts. Reviews are favorable.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

So then why do manufacturers recommend you set it to lowest torque before storing?

I have a Tekton Torque wrench, so one step above HF, but that's what it says in the instruction manual.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

Strawberry posted:

Just picked up the new teardrop composite 3/8 ratchet from HF

http://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-drive-professional-composite-tear-drop-ratchet-62318.html

Incredibly smooth action, this thing has already replaced my Craftsman as my go-to. Waiting for a 1/2 version to come out, I had a chance to handle the flex-head version and it was nice as well.

I was looking at those for a long time, but ended up picking up their double ended flex head instead.

HF's "Pittsburg Pro" line is actually some decent poo poo. If you can't get your work to pay for top end tools for you, you really can't go wrong with hf.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

But where will you find plastic sockets?

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

Do they make it in flex-head?

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

Yeah. Don't worry about the old filter. The key obviously is not damaging the spindle threads or the mounting plate seal area. Both of those are pretty sturdy and protected by the old filter, and you can go pretty hog wild getting them off.

Unless they got cross-threaded somehow. Then you're in the poo poo.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

I've never understood that logic. Doesn't oil viscosity ratings and chemical magic mean the oil is thicker when hotter?

5 weight when cold, 30 weight when hot, for 5w30.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

I take it the sets with the bonus palm ratchet are impossible to find? I typed in a couple zip codes but can't find any stores with stock.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

Sorry for the potato camera work, but I picked up some of those kobalt gearless ratchets on sale last week, and hit the handles with some plasti-dip.







They're late gifts for some dudes who are starting careers as auto mechanics. I hope they like them. :ohdear:

Plastidip is the poo poo though. I gotta say I like the dipping can better than the rattlecan, it goes on thicker and much more even.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

Sears sells Knipex stuff now as well.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

Amazon and other online vendors sell them individually for around 30 bucks. Otherwise tool truck.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

It ocurred to me the other day that truck brands should start offering custom or modular tool services.

want a double end wrench with a flex head racheting box in 17mm on one end, and a flare nut in 19mm on the other? :homebrew:

Want a 3/8" rachet with a phillips screwdriver on the other end? :homebrew:

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

Make a shadow tray out of pink or blue insulating foam. YouTube should have instructions.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

revmoo posted:

The local tire shop put my buddy's wheels on so tight that my Earthquake impact at 120psi couldn't get them off. I ended up having to use a breaker bar, jack handle, and 5' fence post to pop them loose.

He took the car back for something later on and asked them to be gentle. They ended up shattering his bolt adapter rattling the wheels back on the second time.

Most places are more scared of the liability from under-torquing than they are from overtorque, cross-threading, or breaking studs.

Which means impact them on, no torque sticks, use a non-adjustable torque wrench preset to manufacturers spec for that vehicle.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

Splizwarf posted:

Do the chargers made for 220v countries work faster, like electric kettles, or is the chemical reaction the bottleneck?

You are limited by the rate the battery charged, which is restricted by the internal geometry of the battery, and its chemistry.

So yeah, 220v countries typically do not charge batteries faster.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

Some tire shops, and tirerack.com offer shaving services. For a fee they will take a new tire and grind off tread until it matches your current tires. You're paying full price for less mileage out of a single tire, but it's cheaper than 4 new tires.

Also, the reason sidewall plugs are a nono is 50/50 liability/science. If you pay me to patch that tire, and you get a blowout, do a rollover, and manage to take out a kindergarten class on the way, I'm responsible.

I've seen quite a few idiots running around with DIY patches in their sidewalls, and they and their shitmobiles managed to luck out until they scraped up enough to buy new treads.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

Prestige/status and higher build quality (that is not proportionate to the additional cost).

EdIT: So if all you need is a box with drawers to store your tools, no benefit.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

Depends what you need it for. Household wiring? Electronics hobbyist? Automotive?

Do you need a current clamp? Temp readout? 1000v certification?

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

Driving lessons.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

So I mixed up some 50/50 Acetone/ATF for use as a rust penatrent. :science:

This poo poo wicks so well, it crawled up out of the dispensing bottle I had it in, and is now dripping all over the shelf I stored it. :negative:

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

Sadi posted:

That's why I love the ones with the switch to change direction rather than needing to flip it.

Those are both more expensive, and require a slightly larger housing, which makes access worse. :negative:

That said, I wish I owned a set.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

Sadi posted:

So what's the opinion on spline sockets and wrenches? They always struck me as a good way to strip things.

Not any worse than regular 12 point sockets, IMHO. If you're worried about stripping things use a 6 point.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

I used hobby enamels (the kind in the mini jars made by testors or whomever). It works well, but I can't say how resistant they are to the nastier stuff like brake fluid or acetone.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

Just stick a block heater in the master cylinder. Mercury conducts heat well, so you don't have to do all the lines. :science:

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

Torque sticks work fine if you turn your impact wrench down to the appropriate setting. They work by basically functioning as a torsion spring, so whenever the hammer inside the impact wrench hits the anvil, it absorbs part of the force, and transmits only the amount you want into the fastener you are trying to tighten. If you run your impact full throttle, the spring effect doesn't happen, and you can still overtorque.

Many professional shops use a torque stick to run lug nuts down, drop the car off the lift, then use a click-type torque wrench (usually a permanently set one, not adjustable) to confirm the final torque.

If you don't have a torque stick, and don't wanna risk overtorqueing by just using the impact alone, tighten the lugnuts by hand, then lower the car down so that the tires just touch the ground, but most of the weight is still supported by the lift. Torque as normal with your click type.

Other notes:
- Don't put anti-seize on your lug threads. Torque ratings are for clean, dry threads. If you're having problems with rust, get some plastic caps or hubcaps or something.
- Torque them in a star pattern for even tension. On a lot of cars you can accidentally attach the wheel to the hub crooked if you aren't paying attention.
- If you have custom rimzzzzzz :homebrew:, watch out for the plastic spacers that go in between your hub and wheel. Sometimes they get stuck on the hub, and people try to put another wheel (like a spare) on top. This usually doesn't end well.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

Elephanthead posted:

Snap On repos too many tools to customize them.

This poo poo right here. Tool truck guys make soo much money selling tools and toolboxes twice.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

I bought a pair of Thread/bolt size gauges by Murray back in october. Have been handy a few times.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

I don't know who makes them, but

https://www.expeditionexchange.com/ortt/

has them for sale.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

How is the retention and release on those? Was thinking of picking one up for my tool bag.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

Tawd posted:

Surprising to see how little love there is for the euro tools despite some fellow British and European goons around.


Uh. We Americans love european tool brands. we just can't loving afford them.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

Tawd posted:

Bahco seems solid, but I don't like the adjustable spanners. They're a pain in the arse and don't seem to hold on to bolts correctly, which is pretty fundamental. Maybe I'm doing it wrong though?


I have the 12" adjustable, the one that you can flip the jaw and its a pipe wrench. Works great on pipe and fittings.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

The best stuff is the multi layer kits that cost :homebrew:, You can also use pink/blue foamboard and a hot knife. I used an razor and some foam camping pads. It's a work in progress for me, I probably should have just bought the foam insert kit for my toolbox.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

Bogatyr posted:

I have a Milwaukee 18v Fuel drill(no hammer). I have tried a couple times to get it to drive a 4 inch holesaw in sheet metal. Not even bearing down on it, it won't go for very long and the drill shuts down for a minute or so, dead trigger. All I am running now are the 2.0 batteries. Would the bigger batteries help? It's conceivable that a bigger battery pack could provide more current if the circuitry allowed it... The drill works fine otherwise.

Is your hole saw good for the sheet metal you are cutting, and has teeth that are actually sharp?

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

You dont have to, but you really, really should.

Also if you live stateside harbor freight sells inexpensive impact sets.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply