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Splizwarf posted:gently caress this wind chill below zero poo poo, someone recommend their favorite jump box. With a meaty on/off switch please. I managed to pick up a 300A Stanely jumpit, seems to work OK, although it loses a lot of power due to being cold just sitting in my trunk. I am thinking of tearing the thing apart and replacing the sealed leadacid battery with a few lithium polymer packs. Should do better in subzero temps.
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# ¿ Jan 29, 2014 00:08 |
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# ¿ May 12, 2024 03:37 |
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Someone correct me if my math is wrong: So cranking on it and smacking it with a hammer puts out about 400 newton meters. 400 NM / 1.355 = 295 Ft-LB of torque, (or pound-foots, whatever) which is the equivalent of a 73 pound person putting their weight on a 48" breaker bar. Just weight. Not even pushing on it. 400 NM isn't a lot for a breaker. The ingersoll rand air-driven impact at my shop supposedly puts out about 475 NM (350ftlb). So I guess if you have room to swing the hammer, and have room in your toolbox for both that thing and the hammer, it's p. nifty. Unless I'm misunderstanding and the torque scales up as you put more force on the handle?
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# ¿ Feb 4, 2014 05:52 |
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Dear AI tools thread, Universal Spline sockets/wrenches: New hotness, or over-hyped crap? fake edit: bought a cheapo set from HF to test, will report when I get some time with them.
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# ¿ Mar 11, 2014 03:44 |
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Snap-On calls them "Flank Drive". I don't know what other companies call it.
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# ¿ Jun 2, 2014 03:11 |
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Holy jesus please use a proper respirator and goggles, especially marine paint. that poo poo is nasty.
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# ¿ Sep 1, 2014 03:55 |
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Anphear posted:Such a spectacular deal. Wonder why they snapon man let it go for so little money. Because he gave the guy who traded it in 400 in credit.
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# ¿ Sep 17, 2014 14:56 |
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I think the tools thread in DIY & Hobbies is currently discussing Milwaukee battery powered impacts. Reviews are favorable.
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# ¿ Sep 23, 2014 01:32 |
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So then why do manufacturers recommend you set it to lowest torque before storing? I have a Tekton Torque wrench, so one step above HF, but that's what it says in the instruction manual.
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# ¿ Oct 23, 2014 01:43 |
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Strawberry posted:Just picked up the new teardrop composite 3/8 ratchet from HF I was looking at those for a long time, but ended up picking up their double ended flex head instead. HF's "Pittsburg Pro" line is actually some decent poo poo. If you can't get your work to pay for top end tools for you, you really can't go wrong with hf.
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# ¿ Nov 2, 2014 03:01 |
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But where will you find plastic sockets?
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# ¿ Nov 5, 2014 23:36 |
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Do they make it in flex-head?
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# ¿ Nov 22, 2014 23:00 |
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Yeah. Don't worry about the old filter. The key obviously is not damaging the spindle threads or the mounting plate seal area. Both of those are pretty sturdy and protected by the old filter, and you can go pretty hog wild getting them off. Unless they got cross-threaded somehow. Then you're in the poo poo.
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# ¿ Dec 7, 2014 00:57 |
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I've never understood that logic. Doesn't oil viscosity ratings and chemical magic mean the oil is thicker when hotter? 5 weight when cold, 30 weight when hot, for 5w30.
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# ¿ Dec 8, 2014 05:45 |
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I take it the sets with the bonus palm ratchet are impossible to find? I typed in a couple zip codes but can't find any stores with stock.
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# ¿ Dec 23, 2014 05:08 |
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Sorry for the potato camera work, but I picked up some of those kobalt gearless ratchets on sale last week, and hit the handles with some plasti-dip. They're late gifts for some dudes who are starting careers as auto mechanics. I hope they like them. Plastidip is the poo poo though. I gotta say I like the dipping can better than the rattlecan, it goes on thicker and much more even.
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# ¿ Jan 3, 2015 03:58 |
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Sears sells Knipex stuff now as well.
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# ¿ Jan 18, 2015 05:49 |
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Amazon and other online vendors sell them individually for around 30 bucks. Otherwise tool truck.
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# ¿ Feb 8, 2015 02:20 |
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It ocurred to me the other day that truck brands should start offering custom or modular tool services. want a double end wrench with a flex head racheting box in 17mm on one end, and a flare nut in 19mm on the other? Want a 3/8" rachet with a phillips screwdriver on the other end?
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# ¿ Feb 14, 2015 03:18 |
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Make a shadow tray out of pink or blue insulating foam. YouTube should have instructions.
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# ¿ Mar 24, 2015 23:20 |
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revmoo posted:The local tire shop put my buddy's wheels on so tight that my Earthquake impact at 120psi couldn't get them off. I ended up having to use a breaker bar, jack handle, and 5' fence post to pop them loose. Most places are more scared of the liability from under-torquing than they are from overtorque, cross-threading, or breaking studs. Which means impact them on, no torque sticks, use a non-adjustable torque wrench preset to manufacturers spec for that vehicle.
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# ¿ Mar 29, 2015 15:05 |
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Splizwarf posted:Do the chargers made for 220v countries work faster, like electric kettles, or is the chemical reaction the bottleneck? You are limited by the rate the battery charged, which is restricted by the internal geometry of the battery, and its chemistry. So yeah, 220v countries typically do not charge batteries faster.
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# ¿ Apr 3, 2015 23:41 |
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Some tire shops, and tirerack.com offer shaving services. For a fee they will take a new tire and grind off tread until it matches your current tires. You're paying full price for less mileage out of a single tire, but it's cheaper than 4 new tires. Also, the reason sidewall plugs are a nono is 50/50 liability/science. If you pay me to patch that tire, and you get a blowout, do a rollover, and manage to take out a kindergarten class on the way, I'm responsible. I've seen quite a few idiots running around with DIY patches in their sidewalls, and they and their shitmobiles managed to luck out until they scraped up enough to buy new treads.
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# ¿ Jun 1, 2015 00:47 |
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Prestige/status and higher build quality (that is not proportionate to the additional cost). EdIT: So if all you need is a box with drawers to store your tools, no benefit.
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# ¿ Jun 6, 2015 03:13 |
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Depends what you need it for. Household wiring? Electronics hobbyist? Automotive? Do you need a current clamp? Temp readout? 1000v certification?
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# ¿ Jul 8, 2015 01:52 |
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Driving lessons.
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# ¿ Jul 9, 2015 14:24 |
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So I mixed up some 50/50 Acetone/ATF for use as a rust penatrent. This poo poo wicks so well, it crawled up out of the dispensing bottle I had it in, and is now dripping all over the shelf I stored it.
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# ¿ Jul 22, 2015 22:09 |
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Sadi posted:That's why I love the ones with the switch to change direction rather than needing to flip it. Those are both more expensive, and require a slightly larger housing, which makes access worse. That said, I wish I owned a set.
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# ¿ Aug 10, 2015 17:45 |
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Sadi posted:So what's the opinion on spline sockets and wrenches? They always struck me as a good way to strip things. Not any worse than regular 12 point sockets, IMHO. If you're worried about stripping things use a 6 point.
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# ¿ Aug 26, 2015 20:42 |
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I used hobby enamels (the kind in the mini jars made by testors or whomever). It works well, but I can't say how resistant they are to the nastier stuff like brake fluid or acetone.
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# ¿ Aug 29, 2015 00:20 |
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Just stick a block heater in the master cylinder. Mercury conducts heat well, so you don't have to do all the lines.
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# ¿ Sep 21, 2015 02:23 |
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Torque sticks work fine if you turn your impact wrench down to the appropriate setting. They work by basically functioning as a torsion spring, so whenever the hammer inside the impact wrench hits the anvil, it absorbs part of the force, and transmits only the amount you want into the fastener you are trying to tighten. If you run your impact full throttle, the spring effect doesn't happen, and you can still overtorque. Many professional shops use a torque stick to run lug nuts down, drop the car off the lift, then use a click-type torque wrench (usually a permanently set one, not adjustable) to confirm the final torque. If you don't have a torque stick, and don't wanna risk overtorqueing by just using the impact alone, tighten the lugnuts by hand, then lower the car down so that the tires just touch the ground, but most of the weight is still supported by the lift. Torque as normal with your click type. Other notes: - Don't put anti-seize on your lug threads. Torque ratings are for clean, dry threads. If you're having problems with rust, get some plastic caps or hubcaps or something. - Torque them in a star pattern for even tension. On a lot of cars you can accidentally attach the wheel to the hub crooked if you aren't paying attention. - If you have custom rimzzzzzz , watch out for the plastic spacers that go in between your hub and wheel. Sometimes they get stuck on the hub, and people try to put another wheel (like a spare) on top. This usually doesn't end well.
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# ¿ Nov 7, 2015 05:21 |
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Elephanthead posted:Snap On repos too many tools to customize them. This poo poo right here. Tool truck guys make soo much money selling tools and toolboxes twice.
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# ¿ Nov 17, 2015 00:08 |
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I bought a pair of Thread/bolt size gauges by Murray back in october. Have been handy a few times.
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# ¿ Dec 12, 2015 01:51 |
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I don't know who makes them, but https://www.expeditionexchange.com/ortt/ has them for sale.
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# ¿ Feb 14, 2016 21:36 |
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How is the retention and release on those? Was thinking of picking one up for my tool bag.
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# ¿ Mar 11, 2016 00:56 |
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Tawd posted:Surprising to see how little love there is for the euro tools despite some fellow British and European goons around. Uh. We Americans love european tool brands. we just can't loving afford them.
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# ¿ Apr 14, 2016 01:05 |
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Tawd posted:Bahco seems solid, but I don't like the adjustable spanners. They're a pain in the arse and don't seem to hold on to bolts correctly, which is pretty fundamental. Maybe I'm doing it wrong though? I have the 12" adjustable, the one that you can flip the jaw and its a pipe wrench. Works great on pipe and fittings.
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# ¿ Apr 15, 2016 02:33 |
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The best stuff is the multi layer kits that cost , You can also use pink/blue foamboard and a hot knife. I used an razor and some foam camping pads. It's a work in progress for me, I probably should have just bought the foam insert kit for my toolbox.
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# ¿ May 1, 2016 20:46 |
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Bogatyr posted:I have a Milwaukee 18v Fuel drill(no hammer). I have tried a couple times to get it to drive a 4 inch holesaw in sheet metal. Not even bearing down on it, it won't go for very long and the drill shuts down for a minute or so, dead trigger. All I am running now are the 2.0 batteries. Would the bigger batteries help? It's conceivable that a bigger battery pack could provide more current if the circuitry allowed it... The drill works fine otherwise. Is your hole saw good for the sheet metal you are cutting, and has teeth that are actually sharp?
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# ¿ Oct 2, 2016 03:32 |
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# ¿ May 12, 2024 03:37 |
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You dont have to, but you really, really should. Also if you live stateside harbor freight sells inexpensive impact sets.
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# ¿ Oct 11, 2016 22:51 |