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Dirk Pitt posted:Thanks, does the price sound like a good deal? I know the family very well and know the car is lovingly cared for. Dealer tuneups and not a scratch on the gorgeous red baby. The tires and my Fiance's dad being a bit too big are the only reason they are selling it. I bought an off lease 325xi a while back, and it's been great. I'm not convinced the CPO is worth it, especially not for 7-8k more. Also, some of the 2006 use the TPMS sensors, some just use rotation speed to determine pressure. Mine doesn't need the sensors, which makes swapping tires easier. Even if yours had it, you can demount the existing tires and mount new ones and use the same sensors. The risk is that if you went to non run flats, you can't use the fix a flat goo crap without ruining the sensors. As I don't have the sensors, and just killed a set of Conti Pro Contact Sport 2s in 10k miles, I'm going with non run flats this time. A little smoother ride, and a good deal less expensive.
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Oct 20, 2010 16:05
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Today I replaced the stock CDV in my 2006 E90 with one where I knocked the restrictive part out. Holy poo poo, this is like a whole new car. The clutch ENGAGES. Also, I cleaned the MAF, and I appear to have a smoother powerband in the mid range. A nicely productive weekend. Given that I'm at 86k for mileage, time for spark plugs in the next week or two.
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Nov 14, 2011 01:49
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Oh, I did the front brakes last weekend and the rear brakes last fall. While I had the airbox off, I checked the serpentine belt, looks like my dealer replaced that as part of inspection 1. Actually, Tischer/getbmwparts.com sent me a full set of E46 brake parts, which I discovered while trying to install them. Jason was fantastic and sent me a new full set overnight at no charge, with a return label included. The 2006 325 sounds like and E46 but is really the first E90, there's a lot of confusion. Their parts software decided to be stupid, which is hilarious because the parts for the rear the prior year were right. They definitely get a two thumbs up for customer service.
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Nov 14, 2011 04:04
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Ronnie B. posted:Does anyone know how to clear the "brake pads worn" MID message on an E90? (It's the red car-on-a-lift symbol combined with the hand brake light.) My brakes aren't worn (11 mm left on the front, 9 mm on the rear), so does this mean it's a bad wear sensor? The pads were changed before I purchased the car, but the interval wasn't reset. I tried to reset it myself (using this method), and it started giving me this error. If I scroll through service info on the CBS menu, it says the rear brakes are due in 60,000 km, but it shows "-------" for the front brakes. Keep your foot off the clutch, put the fob in and press the start button. After the lights are done, press and hold the trip reset button. Keep holding until the trip mileage comes back and you enter the service reset menu. I think Service 2 is the first it, "car on lift". Release the trip reset button here. (If you keep holding it you go to another menu full of options in German.) Use the up/down on the stalk to flip to the appropriate option, should be ! and the end of the car you want. Press the end stalk button in, then press it in and hold. It should give you what passes for an animated clock, and you'll be reset. I've done this on my 06 E90 for both brakes, several oil changes and Service 2, and it worked fine. My bad news contribution is that while my CDV removal went fine, we ran into a problem with my Dad's 07 E92. I didn't have the modified CDV fully seated, and when he pressed the clutch to bleed it, it leaked. Always wear safety glasses kids! I also later dropped the wrench on my face and a drop got in my mouth, talk about nasty. The actual bad news is that after the leak, it introduced enough air into the system there's no pressure at all. A pressure bleeder is due in tomorrow.  That said, it's still worth the effort to remove it. My car is so amazing now. I wish I had done it long ago.
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Nov 22, 2011 01:33
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Ronnie B. posted:Yeah, that's the procedure I used to reset it originally, which caused the more urgent error to show up. If I try it again, I get the little animated clock as if it's resetting, but then it shows "--------" for the distance to next service. Huh. I wonder if there's a sensor problem? I guess you could try resetting the oil indicator to see if it's a computer issue or a brake sensor issue, depending on how much you care about isolating it.
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Nov 22, 2011 04:54
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Funzo posted:Well, I ended up getting the 2006 325i sedan I was looking at. Everything is great with it except I'm getting a warning message about the front right parking light. After some trouble-shooting, it looks like the halo lights are out on that side. I've been doing some internet searching, and there's some mixed opinions about how to fix it. I thought it was just a regular bulb, but some people are saying you have to drop the bumper and replace the whole ring. Then there's the whole "just replace them with LEDs" group. How much of a pain in the rear end is this going to be to fix? I had the driver halo go out on my car last fall, it's not bad to replace. I took off the wheel and removed the wheel well liner, and it was a pretty easy job. Obviously made harder if you don't have a jack and stand, but once you get the liner off, it's right there. Make sure you have a set of Torx screwdrivers, the two screws holding the halo light housing need that. FYI, those screws are annoyingly long. I looked at buying LEDs, and honestly probably should have. Buying one halo bulb for an E90 sedan ran ~$60 or so after shipping from Tischer, and an LED set is $100 to $150, depending on what you pick. I don't have suggestions on that, since I didn't buy them, but I'd be interested in hearing what people suggest that works and is reasonably priced.
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Mar 5, 2012 04:15
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If it's the Angel eye light, this is the diagram you want http://www.trademotion.com/parts/2006/BMW/325XI/?siteid=214672&vehicleid=1432662&diagram=1942025&diagramCallOut=11 It's not a drop in bulb from Sylvania. Unless I'm misunderstanding what bulb is out?
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Mar 5, 2012 21:00
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discstickers posted:
I didn't look to see if there's an access panel that lines up with it, but if it did, working around the wheel would suck. I had the wheel off, so pulling the liner out wasn't too bad. And yeah, the 2006 sedans are E90. What is annoying is having your passenger seat sensor fail. Can't get inspected, and it's a $375 part with two hours to install and the standard hour and a half for coding. Woo. I thought it would have been covered under the recall for that, but nope, my car is "fine". However, the regional manager is cutting me a break on the price of the part, so it's not COMPLETELY awful. Apparently the sensor is integrated into the bottom of the seat.
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Mar 7, 2012 17:38
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It's seriously that hard to change the angels on an E46? On the E39, it's dead simple (if slightly tight on the passenger side).
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If you can handle the wait, build what you want. For example, the dealer here never orders manual transmission cars, so anyone wanting one is sol.
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Mar 19, 2012 00:03
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Ugh, no kidding. I did my own research on the N52 intake manifold swap, and tried to post helpful info. So many requests for hand holding. Is it really too hard to take something apart to see how it works and swap a part? On that note, my E90 325 is on track to be a 330 soon! The AA stage 2 definitely tunes it above a 328 without the manifold. I'm not convinced an exhaust is worth it, the hp/cost seems terrible. Does anyone know if the E90 330 brake system is bigger than the 325? I'm pretty sure the 328 is the same as the 325.
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May 7, 2012 03:35
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The service advisors at my dealer are pretty good, as is the BMW rep. I brought a ton of info on the recall for my E90, they said I wasn't covered, but that they'd give me a 50% discount on the part. (Seat occupancy sensor) Still sucked though. It doesn't hurt to push, they want to keep you as a future customer.
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May 11, 2012 20:24
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So, the dealer finally called back. I did the three stage intake manifold swap on my E90 325xi, and it ran horribly afterwards. I thought a DISA motor was bad, or I tore something. Nope, didn't have a hose on all the way, creating a vacuum leak. The good news: I didn't need any parts. The bad news: four hours of labor.  Lesson learned: triple check every hose, no matter if you heard it click and it feels solid.
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May 16, 2012 21:19
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Shao821 posted:I guess what I'm asking is, am I going to get screwed looking to get these features retrofitted? More or less. I didn't look at those two, but adding SiriusXM was $400 for the unit from the discount vendor online, so probably $500-$550 for it, plus four to five hours of labor at $95/hr for installation and coding. I mean, you can have it done, but having the dealer add it will suck. If you're inclined, you can buy and install the parts and find a local coding to modify the software for you. Cheaper, but a lot riskier and more time consuming.
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Jun 12, 2012 03:35
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ash with a five posted:Have any of you guys with E90s/E92s replaced the run flats with normal tyres on the same rim? E90, AWD sport package, went with Conti Extreme Contact DWS, and it's been great. Not as grippy or firm as the Conti ProContactSport 2s, but pretty good. Noticeably smoother ride than my Dad's E92 with the OEM runflats. He had the really noisy ones they swapped for the alternative, which don't sound as back. Your shops are being absurd.
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Jul 31, 2012 01:53
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I have Blizzaks for the winter, since I was doing a 70 mile round trip commute each day in Vermont. Those feel like absolute crap on dry pavement, but are awesome in the snow. My perspective of the DWS is biased in cold, dry weather, since I thought they were fine. I have both plugs and the slime crap in my trunk, but I also don't have TPMS, so if I have to use it, I don't have to replace MORE crap.
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Aug 1, 2012 04:25
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an oddly awful oud posted:It is perfectly doable but you need to find a reputable refurbisher and it will cost you upwards of $100 per wheel just for the straightening- usually more if the rim is really hosed up. You have to consider the rarity of your wheels and the difficulty/cost of simply finding a replacement (or replacement set). Also depends on the state. Can't pass inspection in Vermont if the shop knows you had them straightened, it's no longer permissible here. All of the wheel repair shops closed and left a while back when this was changed. This is made even more fun since our roads are extra lovely, and I replaced all my OEM 159s with new 159s from Tischer, and I can already tell one is horribly out of round.
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Aug 6, 2012 03:54
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Ah yes, the six month (or so) Check Engine Light for sticky VANOS solenoid. It's actually to the point where I can feel the engine choke for a split second, and then the light. Thankfully it's a 15 minute clean process to remove and blast with the air compressor. On the upside, the E90 325 to 330 conversion is still totally worth it. 
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Sep 12, 2012 04:03
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Cojawfee posted:Is that this? Looks interesting, but 1500 bucks for those parts seems expensive. Though I guess it is a 20 HP gain. I've been wanting to do something to get more power, but I'll wait til my CPO warranty runs out in a few months. Yes, but I got the manifold complete from a junkyard online for $220 shipped, and the software was $820 shipped. For a 2006 325, it should be closer to a 40hp gain. Stock, it's at 215hp, and this brings you pretty close to a 330, which is 255hp. It's a smaller gain if you're starting with a 328, which has 230hp stock.
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Sep 12, 2012 12:13
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Cojawfee posted:Yeah, I've got a 328, so I'm skeptical about spending that much. I think I might just do the software and a CAI. I'm fairly certain most tests didn't show any gain from a CAI. The software remap is really nice, though. I went with Active Autowerks, and paid extra for the reflashing tool. The best way of making my car feel powerful and amazing again was to put 1500 miles on a Chevy Cruze rental in one week. 
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Sep 13, 2012 12:13
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Funzo posted:I'm not going to have any trouble using Mobile One in my e90 am I? I got an oil light today, and on checking the computer, it says it's low. I was going to change the oil soon anyway, but I thought I should top it up in the meantime. Mobil 1 is fine, but it needs to be the one that meets the LL-01 spec, which I think is the 0w-40. You really shouldn't blend oils, especially if you were planning on changing it, you're wasting that quart by putting it in and dumping it right after. I've been ordering filters from Amazon and getting Mobil 1 for my E90 for four years now.
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Oct 27, 2012 06:02
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Well, I sold my BMW, and bought another. I sold my 2006 325xi with 106k miles, and bought a CPO 2009 328xi with 38k miles. Some things are pretty weird. First of all, gently caress the CDV. It's going to be another ten days before I have the time to pull that, and goddamn it's obnoxious. Second, I had converted my 325 into a 330, so this was a slight drop in performance, so I'll probably tune it soon, and consider swapping in the 330 manifold. The performance is nice, but doing the swap flat out sucks. My 325 was pretty stock - the only features were cold, sport and xenons. The 328 has everything except a usb cable, and I'm pretty sure it's only lacking that because it came with Sirius (Sirius has decent customer service, and swapped my XM band account to a Sirius account pretty easily). The LCI side mirrors are a bit stubby, which feels peculiar. I'm vaguely used to a beige interior from periodically driving my dad's coupe. Old car New Car PS: gently caress the clutch delay valve. Whomever added that should be shot. Seriously.
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Nov 28, 2012 02:50
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Funzo posted:This is probably a dumb question, but what do you mean turned your 325 in to a 330? Are there just a few parts to swap out, since its more or less the same engine in both? Apologies if this is a common thing and I just don't know about it, but I've got a 2006 325 as well, so I'd be interested to know more about it. There's two major parts, aside from a slightly different exhaust. It's the same physical engine, but the 325 is detuned compared to the 330, so you need a custom tune. I used the one from http://www.activeautowerke.com/. The second part is the three stage intake manifold. This is the rather large bit that is between the airbox and the engine itself. The 325 and 328 have one actuator, the 330 has two actuators. This more carefully controls the amount of air entering the engine, allowing for more performance. Andrew at Active Autowerke was really good, and their engineer Zak definitely emailed me the modified file at something like 6:30pm, and I know they're in Florida. The tune is pretty easy to do, and readily brings the 325 to a 328. It's about $800ish if you get the "Simon Tool" which allows you to read and write the ECU for one vehicle. I think it's $500 if you either mail them the ECU or take it to local reseller. After applying this, the throttle was definitely better than my dad's 328, and the performance was pretty close. The manifold is a pain the rear end. It's either $1k in new parts, or pure luck and $250 used. I got mine for $225 shipped from a place in NY. I did not bother pulling it from the 325 before selling it. I had an issue installing it, and took it to the dealer to figure out (a hose was not fully connected, and the engine would stall unless continuously revved). I did not dyno mine, but the combination should put a 325 pretty close to 250hp, from a stock 215hp. The 330 is 255hp. 330i manifold images: https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7932649/manifold1.jpg https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7932649/manifold2.jpg It's from a "330i made after 10/05", which is the E90 330. The E46 won't do you any good, it's a different engine. PS: Unless you want a specific sound, don't change the exhaust - the cost/hp ratio is terrible.
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Nov 28, 2012 03:17
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Yeah, the LCI mirrors are a bit taller, but they're stubbier, I'm used to seeing out further. Not a huge change, just odd.
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Nov 28, 2012 03:18
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Funzo posted:Might have to put that on the "someday" list. Maybe if I happen to come across a used intake, I'll dive in to it. Thanks! Honestly, do the tune first. It'll readily adapt to the manifold if you swap it later. The tune is less time, and more money, while the manifold tends to be the reverse. Apparently earlier in November, Active Autowerke had a 20% off sale, so just keep your eyes open.
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Nov 28, 2012 03:36
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mastermind2004 posted:Is there any way to get the bluetooth pairing PIN from the car once it's been set other than taking it in to the dealer to have them pull it? Also, is there any way to remove previously paired phones from the bluetooth? I have an 09 M3 if that makes any difference. Uh, if it's like the non-M E90s, I just deleted the prior owner's pairings, and set up my own. It had me choose a pin, and I had to enter that on my phone. I think I chose all ones, expecting a default, but when I set up my Dad's car after, I made up a number (hell if I can recall it now). No i-Drive, but I can't see how i-Drive would have less functionality.
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Dec 30, 2012 15:55
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sofullofhate posted:Argh. 6-spd E90 328 is having some starting / idling issues. Feels like vacuum / idle air valve type issues I had in Subarus, but I'd love another opinion from people who know the cars better. Here are the symptoms: Almost certainly vacuum issues, that describes pretty well what happened when I swapped my intake manifold and didn't have a vacuum house fully seated. Not very likely that they'd knock something loose with an oil change, but that's the most reasonable answer.
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Feb 1, 2013 19:55
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Crustashio posted:Just looking at that DIY I'd clean it first. That's a 10 minute job, tops. If the code comes back then I'd actually bother replacing it. Definitely clean it. I cleaned mine every six months or so, it's really easy. They're a hundred bucks each, ten minutes every few months isn't bad. By the time I figured I should replace them,I sold the car. Probably going to preemptively clean them in the 2009, since it's the same engine as the 2006, tuned differently.
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Mar 1, 2013 06:14
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Captain Postal posted:So, I think it's upgrade time I had a 2006 325xi E90, and didn't have any major issues, other than the passenger seat weight sensor. I guess the oil level sensor was finicky, but they replaced those early on. Water pump should be done around 100k miles, but that's normal. Active Autowerke sells a pretty good tune for the 325, but you wouldn't gain a lot by tuning a 330. Non US engines might be different from what I'm thinking of though. The cold weather package gives folding rear seats on the E90. I haven't driven an E46, but I'm on my second E90 (traded up for features and less miles). I love the sport seats, but finding cold/sport/stick used is a pain. The 330 has about 255hp, so it's still a bit more than the new turbo 4 models.
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Mar 12, 2013 14:41
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But I live in the inner city in an apartment with on-street parking, so it's probably too big
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Crustashio posted:Has anyone here used the nylon RTAB limiters with the newer split style (e46 m3) rtabs? I'm doing the RTABS on my e36 M3 and have a limiter kit, but it seems like a VERY tight fit to get them on. I think the 330 has a slightly different rear differential, but performance wise, it's the intake manifold and programming for 95% of it, and a smidge from the exhaust. I turned my 2006 325 (mostly) into a 330 for about $1200. Since selling that, I've tuned my 2009 328, but haven't swapped the manifold. It's close, so I'm not in a rush, but if I find another manifold for $200, I will. I reused the tune tool, so that was cheaper this time. Actually doing the swap sucks. If there's a 330 for a good price, it's definitely the way to go. This 328 was a great priced CPO and fully loaded (and newer).
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Mar 23, 2013 02:45
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Noggin Monkey posted:What exactly did you upgrade? I flashed the tune from Active Autowerke, and bought an intake manifold from a wrecked 330. It was a pain in the rear end, but worth it. Even just the tune is worth it, which is what I'm running now.
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Mar 23, 2013 04:07
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Noggin Monkey posted:Did you actually see an increase in fuel efficiency? The $500 chip seems like something I might do down the road. No idea. It responds better, so I drive it harder. Also, home to work is .8 miles, and it's 35 to my parents' place, do I have a hard time figuring it out. I think on trips to Boston, the tune loses me 1mpg based on the last, untuned trip compared to before. Maybe. For an N52, it's pretty good value for the money. For any stick BMW, the best value is ditching the goddamn CDV.
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Mar 24, 2013 21:50
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I've used non studded Blizzaks on two E90s in Vermont over five years and I've never had a problem. I'm not sure it's worth studding quality tires. It's going to send your dry pavement handling straight to hell, and be excessively noisy. I also drove my old Celica for two years at Syracuse with Cooper snow tires and never had a problem, also no studs. I think as long as the tires are good quality, and you have decent tread, you're fine. Bavauto has some good things that are hard to find elsewhere, but they tend to be a bit pricey.
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Apr 8, 2013 17:52
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Sleepstupid posted:So, I'm looking for newer used car, one that specifically has the feature where you can "store" your favorite artists in Sirius/XM. So far I've looked at an Audi A4 and just today a Lexus IS. Neither of these cars have this feature that my VW has You don't need iDrive, but it does need to have the Sirius option installed. I have it on my 2009, and you can assign stations to the numbers, just like regular radio. Adding Sirius afterwards is prohibitively expensive, but if it's pre wired, you can plug an after market one into the shark fin with an extension cable and use the aux port, which I did on my 2006.
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Apr 12, 2013 21:31
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Some googling led me to
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Sleepstupid posted:Sorry, I don't mean setting stations as presets, I'm looking to "store" or set certain artists as "favorites" so that if they're playing on another channel, it will alert me so I can switch over to it. Oh. I didn't read the link that carefully on my phone earlier. That's an iDrive screenshot, but I'd double check with a dealer, because I've never heard of that feature before (ie, make sure it's not just an F30 option if you're looking to buy an E90). On the E90s, the iDrive screen only comes with the Navigation package, which adds $2.5k when ordering, so it'll increase the price a fair bit.
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Apr 13, 2013 02:10
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lostleaf posted:So I'm heading in tomorrow to check out a 2008 328iT with 80k miles. Google tells me to ask if the coolant system and the fuel pump has been replaced. I read on some of the forums that the steering column is an issue on 2006 and 2007 but did not read anything about 2008s. Is there anything else I should know about the e91? The coolant system is less so on the E90s than the E46s, and the water pump for the N52 (normal aspiration) is a 75k to 150k guess as to when it needs it, and no one really does it proactively before 100k or so. I sold my 2006 at 107k and it was fine. The fuel pump isn't a concern on N52 engines, but on the turbo N54. It also comes with an eight year warranty. But if you're looking at a 328, it won't have turbo, so no worries. The N52 is pretty solid, I'm on my second and haven't really had any major or systemic issues. I'd have the coolant and brake fluids flushed if you buy it, I think the whole "lifetime" line is bullshit. Check the brake pads/rotors, at 80k the rears were almost certainly done at least once, and maybe the fronts. If you buy parts and do the work, it'll run about $300ish per axle to swap pads and rotors, if you pay a shop, double it.
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May 9, 2013 01:16
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:Well, the 6 speed in my Subaru is definitely really nice to row through, and I think I would miss it. I haven't driven a 335 though so I'll have to see. Anyway, I'll be picking up this car next Friday and driving it across most of the US. I'm still trying to find a good comparison of the chassis and motor to similar models/years. Is the twin turbo better or worse than the single turbo 335? Is 2007 a particularly bad or "lol" year for any reason? Does it have any known lovely parts or issues besides the HPFP? Right now its under some type of warranty that i will get and is entirely unmodified. The twin turbo is better if you plan on tuning it, from what I recall. Since it's about 6 years old, you should budget for a walnut shell blasting of the intake to remove carbon buildup. The HPFP should have an eight year warranty, so you have a bit left. 2007 would be the first year it (turbo E90) was introduced, so take that for what you will. My 2006 non turbo was the first year of E90 and it was fine. The 335 auto transmission was substantially better than the 328 auto, which was GM. I think the 335 was Getrag? I think non-AWD sport package got an oil cooler, but perhaps not on the 2007. E90post.com has decent information on how to identify it, just try to ignore the general sections. Tune, tires and suspension are probably the first mods to look at.
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May 22, 2013 16:19
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:Thanks for the info and heads up on forum. I've been told it has an oil cooler, although I haven't verified that of course. How much does walnut shell blasting of the intake cost? What do people do for tuning? I have an accessport for the Subaru. Are the off the shelf tunes safe or worth it or...? 91 is the recommended minimum from BMW, it should be fine. In my experience, ethanol free seems to make more of a difference than 91 vs 93. I don't have a turbo, so I don't know the specifics of tuning or cleaning it, just what I've gleaned from reading about mine, but there are a number of off the shelf tunes that people use just fine. Just make sure you get one for the N54 engine, which is the twin turbo that you have.
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May 22, 2013 17:09
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ibntumart posted:I may be test driving my first BMW soon, a 2007 328i sedan (so an E90, yeah?). Anything special I should know or ask the dealer about? Is this even a good year/model to consider? 2007 is the second year for that engine, all they changed from 2006 was the tune/performance. I'm on my second N52 engine E90, and my dad has one as well, they're pretty solid. It'll need a new thermostat and water pump at about 100k, otherwise just general maintenance.
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May 24, 2013 23:34
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:I was told the car has an oil cooler. The engine bay is a pile of plastic shrouds and sensor wires though so I haven't checked to see if it's actually there. I heard it was part of the sport package. The only time it hit the 250 range (maybe not quite that hot) was during spirited driving in 95 degree weather. I can probably avoid doing that. Driving across the country a couple weeks ago it was 220-230 and seemed happy. The aux oil cooler on a 335 should be in front of the passenger side tire. That said, many 2007 335 sport packages were without the oil cooler, and non sport didn't have them at all. So, who knows.
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Jun 16, 2013 17:24
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Very nice! I love that color, it's pretty close to my first, an '06. My '09 is Barbera, and tends to look more purple. If you're inclined to mod, the first thing is to remove the CDV, and fix the shifting. If you want a smoother power band and a couple more horsepower, the tune from Active Autowerke is pretty good, and they're great people.
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Jun 28, 2013 02:49
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