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frozenphil posted:My 1998 328i. I'll take that krautmobile off your hands for ya  I do love the look of the E36 and I'm sure they're phenomenal to drive but I probably won't end up getting one in the immediate future, not until I get some other things taken care of. Once I do, it looks like finding an unmolested six-cylinder with a stick won't be all that easy 
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Mar 28, 2008 18:09
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Moruitelda posted:More issues in my tire search - I got my Yokohama Parada Spec-2 tires in, and called a shop about getting them mounted, and was told the rims on my MINI are specifically designed for the runflats, and that traditional tires could therefore not be mounted on them. Is this true? Is there any way around it without having to buy 4 new rims or trying to get Tire Rack to accept a return of the tires I've just purchased? I'm really at a loss here. I've never heard that before. People switch from runflats to non-runflats all the drat time. Call another place that isn't run by douchebags.
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Apr 9, 2008 17:23
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Moruitelda posted:E: Now, shopping around to try to get ahold of 4 17" wheels that are going to work with regular tires, but there doesn't seem to be any kind of distinguishing between the two based on online advertisements. What the gently caress? Like I said, call a place that isn't run by douchebags. You're probably getting to people who, because the car had runflats on it stock, refuse to put non-runflats on it. There's no physical difference in how they mount, except that the non-runflats are easier to mount since their sidewalls aren't as crazy-stiff. Tire shops can be a huge pain in the rear end. I had Costco turn me away because the tires I was asking for were one tiny tick down on the weight-handling scale from what Volvo shipped out on my '88 240. TireRack has lists of their official installers on their site - pull it up for your area and start calling. Don't even say what you're driving, just say you have four 17" tires that need to be mounted.
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Apr 9, 2008 17:53
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Guinness posted:My brakes were just bled as part of Inspection II a few months ago by my indy, so it would be nice if I could get away with not dealing with them. Unless BMW are complete loving morons, a common fluid reservoir for brakes and clutch will have internal dividers such that a total loss of fluid from one system doesn't cause the other to go dry. It would really suck to have a leaky clutch slave and suddenly have no brakes.
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Dec 20, 2012 18:14
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Test drive the best E36 M3 you can find, then test a 330? I'd worry that if you got the 330 when you want an M3, you'd always have that nagging you when you drive it.
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Jan 16, 2013 15:41
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Billy Zane posted:N54 engines also suffer from carbon build-up on the valves Isn't this nearly every DI engine ever, except some of the new ones that have port injection running in tandem?
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Jan 29, 2013 01:07
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televiper posted:With non DI engines you could avoid that by thrashing them every so often - is that not the case now-a-days? It doesn't help - the problem with a DI-only engine is that no fuel ever passes the intake valves, so all of the poo poo that gets sucked in by way of EGR and PCV sticks to the valves and never gets washed off.
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Jan 29, 2013 18:59
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BraveUlysses posted:Roof rack! You weren't kidding.    
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Jan 31, 2013 22:49
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ibntumart posted:I agree with this (though I also think that Dakar yellow is the absolute best and feel pangs of envy passing the parked E36 M3 in said color on my daily commute, so make of my taste what you will). Did someone say Dakar Yellow?  From here. 
IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 19:02 on Jul 16, 2013 |
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Jul 16, 2013 18:40
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Popete posted:Is this a stupid idea? Have any of you guys flown 1000+ miles to buy a 16 year old car and drive it back? I flew 400 miles for a then-30-year-old car in far worse shape, and drove it back. Do it. stump posted:Can I just put it in gear (5th?) to lock the engine (M47TU / 6 speed manual) or will I need a special tool? Google results give conflicting results on the forums. No matter how German they design these things, I can't think of any way they could set up a manual transmission car where putting it in top gear with the brake set and the drive wheels down, wouldn't be enough to lock the crank in place.
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Jul 26, 2013 17:17
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Have you pulled the plugs since it started eating coolant? See if one looks unusually clean.
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Aug 1, 2013 19:40
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GrAviTy84 posted:Oh hey, my cousin has a manual 03 Mini Cooper S in his lot right now (he owns a dealership). What are the opinions on this car? I feel like it could be fun, but not necessarily practical in terms of space. Though on I'll throw in my own interest here since my sister-in-law is 99% dead set on a Mini Cooper S convertible, and due to price it will probably be one of the earlier supercharged cars and not the later turbo cars. The convertible is a must, she doesn't like the look of the Fiat 500c, she doesn't really like Mustangs, and she doesn't want another Miata (she wants a back seat, no matter how small). I guess the alternative would be some form of 3-series ragtop, but I know she's already test-driven the MCS and loves how it drives so similarly to her Miata. And even though it won't be my car to pay for, I'm sure I'll at least have to dole out advice on it
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Aug 13, 2013 00:39
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Throatwarbler posted:It's not an issue for "cars", because the issues are actually almost 100% confined to VAG products and a few other German cars. Those people just happen to be people who like to post on internet forums a lot. Mazda definitely does it too with the turbo DISI engines. No idea if the Skyactiv engines use EGR but the giant pain in the rear end of cleaning intake valves was part of what pushed me away from the CX-5 and towards the CR-V.
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Oct 18, 2013 18:02
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Early TPMS systems just detected a speed difference, newer ones are actual pressure sensors (though sometimes they only wake up and start transmitting once the vehicle moves). Higher-end vehicles can give you the ability to see the actual pressure reported from each tire, instead of just sounding a chime and turning on an idiot light.
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Nov 15, 2013 17:59
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The Third Man posted:It's not horrible like those pictures, but it's light enough to make me think it's coolant. I'm used to seeing the brown sludge in the cold it this was lighter than that. I decided to check because I caught a few light spots on the raised humps of the dipsticks plastic end piece, but the oil in the sump itself was dark. Are you taking it on long drives and getting the engine good and hot when you do? It's highly likely that's condensation and not actual coolant contamination, especially if the oil in the crankcase seems normal. If you're really concerned, do an oil change and send a sample of the old stuff to Blackstone, and get one of those exhaust gas tester setups for your coolant.
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Dec 29, 2013 04:37
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Alarbus posted:The problem is that the car boosts alternator output as the battery ages, so you have to reprogram the car to recognize a new battery, you can't just drop one in. Battery and programming runs about $400 at a dealer, less at an Indy. That's it, we've reached peak German overengineering.
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Feb 4, 2014 16:26
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BrokenKnucklez posted:So... the X7... a BMW suburban? A BMW BMW. A lot of Mormons call their Suburbans "Big Mormon Wagons".
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Mar 29, 2014 04:43
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Lufiron posted:You'll get a serious clunking sound on load reversal and in stop and go situations. You also might do damage to the mating area of the wheel if left that way for very long time. I really don't recommend it. How do you figure? The lug nuts clamp the wheel and rotor to the hub. There's no way for the rotor to be loose without the wheel also being loose, and you've got far bigger problems then. The stupid lovely tiny little Phillips screw exists solely to make assembling the whole thing easier for the line workers.
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Aug 11, 2014 23:06
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Other than guaranteeing that any flat tire means a tow, no, you should be fine to put regular tires on the car instead.
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Nov 5, 2014 22:08
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Das Volk posted:I need to contact you about someone here and you have PMs turned off. How can I get in touch? It's a bug (already asked the admins to try and unfuck it), but I can still PM you. Edit: Or...not, now I can't PM regular users. THANKS RADIUM PM an admin and they can post it in modchat for now.
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Nov 5, 2014 22:13
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Pierced Bronson posted:oh and also that includes the range extender. If I had gone with a lesser 'world' I could have come in at under $100/mo and if I had gone full electric instead of REx it would have been cheaper still. I don't plan to dip into the REx a bunch but I wasn't comfortable enough being absolutely limited to 60-80 miles with the pure electric, since I've never really had to quantify my driving patterns in 'miles per day' On one hand, consider that your 10k/year lease only allows you to average a tick over 27 miles per day. On the other hand, the real-world range is likely a decent bit less than EPA stated, and may get considerably worse depending on climate. My commute is a minimum 50 mi/day round trip. Between the reduction in range for highway driving, high temperatures (high A/C use), and degradation of the battery, I won't feel comfortable driving anything with less than 150mi EPA-rated range (I can't charge at work). But if I could lease even the hideous i3 at that price with a range extender... that's tempting.
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Aug 22, 2015 00:00
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