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Jackie the Mick
Nov 10, 2003
Don' say we neva did nuthin fah yuz.

meatpimp posted:

Which goon has an E24 6-series? This seems like a rare trove of parts: http://columbus.craigslist.org/cto/5561890415.html

I have an e24! I want that '88 front valence/spoiler so bad I can taste it. Mine is a bit worse for wear. Of course, I'm in Arkansas, so I can't go look at it and haggle, but...man I want it. I may just have to call and be disappointed.




UPDATE: So far, the guy is not responding to texts, and I can't call because I'm at work, so it may be hours yet until I am inevitably disappointed.

UPDATE2: And it's sold already!

Jackie the Mick fucked around with this message at 20:23 on May 27, 2016

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Jackie the Mick
Nov 10, 2003
Don' say we neva did nuthin fah yuz.

rscott posted:

E24 sport seats fit in an E28 right

Yes. e24 seats will work in an e28 but not the other way around, of course.

Jackie the Mick
Nov 10, 2003
Don' say we neva did nuthin fah yuz.
I have a question. I thought I had a blown head gasket on my '88 635CSi, but after taking it apart, I found that what I actually have are cracks in the head. So my options are: 1. Roll the dice on trying to find a "good used" M30b35 cylinder head on CL, Ebay, etc. Or 2. send it to a place like this and having it welded. Which one would be the better choice? One assumes that even with a "good used" head, I will have to have it pressure checked and decked, so even if I can get one for relatively cheap, it'll still be somewhat spendy. Right? WHAT SHOULD I DO?

Jackie the Mick
Nov 10, 2003
Don' say we neva did nuthin fah yuz.

Jackie the Mick posted:

I have a question. I thought I had a blown head gasket on my '88 635CSi, but after taking it apart, I found that what I actually have are cracks in the head. So my options are: 1. Roll the dice on trying to find a "good used" M30b35 cylinder head on CL, Ebay, etc. Or 2. send it to a place like this and having it welded. Which one would be the better choice? One assumes that even with a "good used" head, I will have to have it pressure checked and decked, so even if I can get one for relatively cheap, it'll still be somewhat spendy. Right? WHAT SHOULD I DO?

So far, I have a few different options: 1. Have my cylinder head welded and refurbished. $600 2. A used head with complete valvetrain from an e24 forum member. This one is still attached to the engine and needs to be removed/inpected. $600 shipped. 3. A new cylinder head with only valves installed (no cam/springs/rockers/etc...could I use my old ones?) from the same forum member. $600 shipped. 4. Complete cylinder head of of a parts car identical to my own. Same condition as #2, but sold by a random person on Craig's List. $275 + shipping.

Anyone have any thoughts about this?

Jackie the Mick
Nov 10, 2003
Don' say we neva did nuthin fah yuz.

Trans Ferdinand posted:

I just started it this morning. It cranked fine, seemed to idle rough for a bit, than smoothed out. Backing out and pulling away, it started to have trouble idling. It never died, but the idle would dip and then catch at the normal idle RPM. I drove it around the apartment parking lot, and it was backfiring on the overrun like before. I parked it afterwards.

So I'm starting to think that it's an idle issue, not a cranking issue, and might be related to what your dad was experiencing.

I had similar problems to these with my '88 e24. I checked sensors, relays, DME, filters, and pumps, and it turned out to be a tired alternator that wasn't putting out enough voltage. Test the output on the alt, and if it is lower than 13.5v (minimum required according to the Bosch) swap out the brushes. I got this one and it fixed my issues.

Worth a shot, right?

Jackie the Mick
Nov 10, 2003
Don' say we neva did nuthin fah yuz.
I'm thinking about making a really stupid decision. Maybe you guys can help me out. I'm going to buy a new (to me) car soon. So far what I want is rather nebulous" RWD, "fun", relatively comfortable, made within the last decade. The newest car I've ever owned is my current '88 e24, so...basically anything made in the last 10 years is probably going to feel like a rocket ship in comparison, but I want some input on HOW loving stupid these current ideas are.
I'm trying to keep the budget low, so here we go. In order of what I think is least to most idiotic: 230i, M235i, 987.2 Cayman, Alfa Romero Guilia Ti.

I'll post in the Porsche thread about the Cayman as well, but I wanted to know what the thought are about the M235i, and the 230i. I mean, is the former a world of pain? Is the 230i a world of boredom? Is there a better option that I'm not even looking at?

Jackie the Mick
Nov 10, 2003
Don' say we neva did nuthin fah yuz.
M2 Comp: Any of these for sale for less than, say, $25k? Ha. If so, sure. Or a 981 Cayman in the same budget? I'd totally take either one in a heartbeat. Wouldn't even care about color or options at that price.

M3: I think there are probably SOME E9x M3's that would fit the initial budget, but finding a good example may be difficult. My wife lusts after them though, so I suppose I will have to put it on the list...even if it may be pretty far up on the "loving stupid decision" scale.

So, 230i is boring? Anyone else have an option on these?

Recommendations of a 128i (I've heard the manual versions are about as close to the BMWs I'm used to in feel, so that is interesting...if one can be found) or E9x 328i.

Any opinions about the M235i? Is it objectively terribly to live with/maintain?

User Error posted:

Why buy one newer car when you could buy 8 e36s?

This basically illustrates my car buying ethos of the last 20 years...I'm trying something new (figuratively and literally).

Jackie the Mick
Nov 10, 2003
Don' say we neva did nuthin fah yuz.

Ether Frenzy posted:

If you're spending $25k on the car there's plenty of E9x M3 options in that range. The M235i is objectively terrible if you've ever been in an M3, but it is Newer even if it's much less Fast Loud Good or Cool.
https://bringatrailer.com/bmw/e90-e92-m3/

https://tulsa.craigslist.org/ctd/d/tulsa-2010-bmw-m3-60k-miles-leather/7166886616.html

That seems to be the only E92 M3 in my price rage within 100 miles of me.

Jackie the Mick
Nov 10, 2003
Don' say we neva did nuthin fah yuz.

BlackMK4 posted:

Tail lights spray painted with niteshade, the sign of a great po

First thing I saw. "Oooh, smoked tail lights. That doesn't encourage confidence."

Jackie the Mick
Nov 10, 2003
Don' say we neva did nuthin fah yuz.
So, back in August I bought a CPO 2016 M235i. It's been great, but a couple days ago the windsheild washers stopped working. I've been trying to find the fuse for it, but the only diagram I found was for the fuse panel in the trunk which doesn't seem to contain the fuse I'm looking for. (next to the picture of the washer there is a picture of a car on a lift?) The fuse panel located in the engine compartment doesn't have a diagram at all, and I can't seem to find one anywhere online. Can anyone shed some light on this for me?

Jackie the Mick
Nov 10, 2003
Don' say we neva did nuthin fah yuz.

Alarbus posted:

If it's like the F30 sedan, there's another fuse box in the passenger footwell, right hand side below/in front of the door hinges. That's where the horn fuse is, anyway. It's under the trim and a bitch to get to. Is it still under CPO? $50 might be worth it to have them gently caress around with the trim?

It should be still covered under CPO (until 2022, I believe), but the nearest dealership is over an hour away, so I was hoping I could just check out the easy stuff before having to make that drive.

Cojawfee posted:

They stopped putting the fuse box behind the glove box?

I did not see any clips to access one in the glove box. There is one in the trunk near the battery and one in the engine compartment near the washer fluid resevoir. Irritatingly, the only one that has any sort of diagram is the one by the battery, and it is just a slip of paper tucked into it that has icons for everything. There is no diagram at all for the engine side fuses, and no mention at all in the owners manual for one behind a kick panel.

Jackie the Mick fucked around with this message at 17:35 on Jan 14, 2021

Jackie the Mick
Nov 10, 2003
Don' say we neva did nuthin fah yuz.

SlapActionJackson posted:

TIS confirms the washer pump plugs in to the FEM which is behind that passenger footwell kick panel.

Hopefully I will be able to figure out where it is and which fuse to pull. I've been googling like crazy and I am dumbfounded by how impossible it is to find any diagrams for these things.

Jackie the Mick
Nov 10, 2003
Don' say we neva did nuthin fah yuz.
Yeah, it's all about what the car is tuned for. I've always hated the nomenclature of "premium" and "regular" when it comes to gas/petrol, since it's not as though one is any better than the other. I mean, depending on the tune of your car (timing, compression ratio, etc) "regular" 87AKI can give you way better performance than "premium" 93AKI, or vice-versa.

I mean...I sort of understand it, because some engines require the more expensive high octane stuff and it's easier to convince the average consumer that the fuel is "better" over all than just better for their car. Ugh. But this is also why I had a friend who put race gas in his bone stock 67 tempest and couldn't figure out why it was running like poo poo. "But I bought RACE GASSSS"
"Man, I don't think I can advance the timing on an 8.6:1 2bbl enough for it to not run like poo poo on [100+AKI] gas."

Wait, what were we talking about? Sorry guys, I'm going to go find some coffee.

Jackie the Mick
Nov 10, 2003
Don' say we neva did nuthin fah yuz.
Makes me wonder if I should just sell my '88 635CSi. I mean, I have an M235i to drive every day now, and I could use the money after this last year. Are they getting decent money right now? It's a tough call because I hate the selling process SO much, and the thing has been sitting for months and probably needs a tune up. Ugh.

Jackie the Mick
Nov 10, 2003
Don' say we neva did nuthin fah yuz.

LegoMan posted:

I need some help with my 1970 (recent rebuilt motor) BMW 2002. I brought it home after being in the shop for an engine rebuild (after which the mechanic gave me brake lights and a starter because the electrical was a melted mess). I've been rewiring everything and then I think blew out my pertronix because I wired my ignition coil wrong (i'm not sure really. It ran for a while then just stopped and wouldn't start again).

I bought a 123 ignition distributor but I'm having trouble I think getting it put in right. I'm not a mechanic and if it would run even a little I'd take it in to the shop. I think I got it wired up right, and I aligned to what I think cylinder 1 is using some help from my mechanic over email (I don't want to ask him too many questions because it doesn't feel right as its his livelihood. He said to look below the distributor for a hole and look for the "OT" line. I had to spin the pulley by hand while my son was looking down and there's only a "TO" line. It still won't start and I verified that I'm getting a spark on cylinder 1 but I'm not sure if it's timed right. I'm also sure I have my firing order right

My question is there another mark we're not seeing, and what the gently caress is "TO" because I can't for the life of me figure out how to get "TO" from "OT" without mirroring.

It feels like it wants to start maybe, it's kind of making this "chuffing" noise. Would that be a symptom of me not finding cylinder 1 TDC correctly?

Someone may have a better way to do this, but my foolproof way of finding TDC on cylinder 1 (nearest the radiator) is to take out all the spark plugs, take off the valve cover, and rotate the engine by hand until the valves on cyl 1 are totally closed (both all the way up). You can check by grabbing the rockers and wiggling them. If they move around a tiny bit, they're closed. You can also put a screwdriver into the (previeously clean of debris) sparkplug hole to make sure the piston is at the top of the cyl. I've had to do this on cars where the crank pulley either slipped or was labeled incorrectly, etc. If you're lucky, that hasn't happened and it will confirm your markings.

Jackie the Mick
Nov 10, 2003
Don' say we neva did nuthin fah yuz.
Yeah,
Wiggling the rockers is just to make sure it's not on the exhaust stroke. But if the long screwdriver trick works and it lines up with your timing mark, then you should be good. Oh, and TDC on cylinder 1 should have the rotor pointing to cyl 1 on the cap. If it isn't, you could be 180 out like NitroSpazzz says, or off a tooth or two on the distributor gear.

Jackie the Mick
Nov 10, 2003
Don' say we neva did nuthin fah yuz.

KillHour posted:

I should start a hackerspace for cars where you rent a bay at $50/day or whatever and it comes with access to a bunch of tools.

I've thought about doing this SO many times. I usually get caught in a spiral of thinking about how the liability and insurance would work until I just forget about it again until the next time it pops in my head, and I think "what a great idea!" Repeat ad nauseum.

Jackie the Mick
Nov 10, 2003
Don' say we neva did nuthin fah yuz.
Hello everyone. About a block from my house my 2016 M235i gave me a warning that I needed coolant, and well...It Has Happened.



Something has sure sprung a leak. Luckily, I was close to home, but it still kinda sucks. It's only got 49k miles on it, and this is the first problem I've had. (aside from having to replace the washer pump, but that was like, $20 and 30 minutes.)

I'll get into it tomorrow and see if I can find out what is actually happening here, but does anyone have any guesses? My gut says plastic radiator bits.

Jackie the Mick
Nov 10, 2003
Don' say we neva did nuthin fah yuz.

Ether Frenzy posted:

I'm sorry Ms Jackson, your rad needs new seeeeaaals

Never meant to make your car not drive, I apologize a million times.


SlapActionJackson posted:

When that happened to Mrs Jackson's 335 it was the coolant vapor hardline from the upper radiator pipe to the expansion tank. $50 and 10 minutes to swap.

Cool. I'll look for that when I get the cover off tomorrow to inspect everything. Would be nice to not have to replace everything already.

Jackie the Mick
Nov 10, 2003
Don' say we neva did nuthin fah yuz.
We have a winner, folks!

Incredible

boop.


Replacement should be here thursday.

Jackie the Mick
Nov 10, 2003
Don' say we neva did nuthin fah yuz.
Maybe I'm just really lucky. Aside from having to replace the upper radiator expansion hose, and the washer fluid pump (both less than $50ea and done myself) I haven't had to do anything but what I would call regular maintenance on my 2016 M235i in the 3 years that I've had it.

Like, if I included everything it would be:
$50 - Washer pump + grommet
$20 - Expansion hose
$60 - Brake Fluid
$240 ($80 x 3) - Oil and Filter
$300 - Battery
$600 - Tires

Total = $1270

But the only things out of ordinary running costs are the pump and hose, and that's only $70 in 3 years. Battery, tires, brake fluid are neither a yearly expense, nor a break/fix situation. Oil is a bit silly, but not totally absurd.

I've had my e24 for about a decade now, and I did have to replace the cylinder head and injectors on that, but I got a decent deal, so it only cost about $1200 (mostly because of all of the "well, while I'm here" parts that I replaced) and a few Saturdays to do. Hell, maybe I should start playing the lotto or something.

Jackie the Mick
Nov 10, 2003
Don' say we neva did nuthin fah yuz.
My 2016 M235i (non nav) idrive keeps randomly fuzzing out and saying "no signal" on the screen. Then it goes blank until I turn the car off completely for a few minutes. When I start it up again, it works like there was never a problem. Anyone know what the gently caress is going on?

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Jackie the Mick
Nov 10, 2003
Don' say we neva did nuthin fah yuz.

Alarbus posted:

Did you just post this on f30post? I'd start by checking loose connectors to the screen, probably more likely to be that vs a dead screen. You can find replacement screens on ebay for ~$200 if you think that might be the issue.

No, I've tried searching bmw forums, but most of the posts end with "so I took it to the dealer and they did something", but I was hoping that someone else here had the same experience and could offer an actual real world solution. It's not behaving like its the screen, more like it's something with the idrive/head unit. I only say that because the stereo cuts out and I get a "no signal" on the screen before it goes totally dark. I upgraded the firmware, but that didn't seem to fix the issue. I'll start checking connectors, like you said. Maybe that's what's going on.

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