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SEX HAVER 40000 posted:im sure this is answered earlier in the thread but: Paul Sellers’ plywood workbench might be cheaper than rex’s english joiners bench, bit more labor though
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Dec 21, 2020 15:01
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sockpuppetclock posted:Someone wants me to help add center support to their bed. Their king size bed has really mediocre center support and the slats sag. They wanted to replace their slats with a single thick sheet of wood but I'm not sure something that size... exists? What kind of wood would you recommend for a center support? It is often recommended not to put a mattress on a flat sheet of anything because it can cause mildew growth if there isn’t enough airflow to the underside. Other sources say this is fine as long as the humidity in the bedroom is controlled, but i personally wouldn’t take the risk. Probably the easiest way to solve this is to buy a prebuilt bunkie board - you can get a king or a pair of twin xls, which are the same length and half the width - and drop that in on top of the existing slats. If you still need extra support in the center, cut a 2x4 to length and use it as a center leg. Anything more complicated than that will have you substantially reengineering the bed and at that point it’s probably more cost effective to buy a new one unless the current bed has a lot of value.
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Dec 22, 2020 00:00
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Ethics_Gradient posted:What's the best kind of beginner-friendly join for the following use case, and what sort/thickness of wood would be a good compromise of weight/strength/cost? You don't need a shelf, the same lashing you use to secure the tote to the frame can support it underneath. Turn it vertical (lid facing your back, probably) and get some webbing, then do a diamond hitch like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s39Gm0O0jJU I need to emphasize: this is going to be uncomfortable at best, but completely unmanageable if you don't properly secure the load. 50 pounds on your back is serious weight, even for "just" a day trip, and carrying it in a tote means it will not be close to your back, increasing the leverage. It's going to slow you down noticeably if you're not in good shape, and it's going to be painful if your pack is loose or sloppy. "Loose" includes whatever you're putting in the tote btw, i hope you have a very tight and well--padded packing arrangement.
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Apr 13, 2024 03:15
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FuzzySlippers posted:so how bad is a Ryobi RTS10G table saw for any kind of precision? When I read poo poo about tools online I have a hard time differentiating between 'bad for pros' vs 'just really bad'. I'm just an amateur so my requirements are pretty low, but it'd be good to know if this thing is actively working against me. i recently set up the even cheaper and crummier 8 1/4 inch ryobi table saw and was able to get straight and parallel cuts and square corners. you'll need a cheap combo square with a ruler. here are the points i checked, in order: - table flat. it's not going to be, you know, reference surface flat, but it should not be obviously dished, domed, or warped. if it is, lap it flat. (just kidding the saw is no good, throw it out and start over) - blade parallel to miter slot. check this with your ruler at both the toe and hell of the blade. page 31 of the manual - runout on the arbor. you don't need to dial this in or anything, there just shouldn't be any obvious wobble when the blade is in motion. check that the arbor nut is tight and clear of dust or debris - riving knife in plane with the blade. there should be some adjustment screws for this - check the manual If those are all ok then your saw is set up and capable of making precise cuts in wood. The gauges may not be as precise as you want, so use your combo square to set the blade perpendicular and ruler to set the fence parallel to the blade, checking at the toe and heel. Don't rely on the indicator and don't trust the fence will automatically be parallel to the blade. I find it's usually good enough if I push on both sides of the front T before clamping the fence down, but if you need precision, use the ruler. the big show stoppers are the table not being flat or the blade won't stay parallel to the miter slot. if you've adjusted it and tightened everything and it still slips out of true, just ditch the saw, but the rest of the stuff is mostly fixable.
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Apr 18, 2024 16:36
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Leperflesh posted:I'm just gonna pipe up and say that aligning the blade to the miter slot and then ensuring the fence is and stays aligned to both is a safety priority for a table saw. It's not just to keep you getting good cuts: it's to prevent the wood from being forced between the blade and the fence during a cut, which creates a serious kick back risk. Kickbacks are the thing that causes the most injuries from table saws - not chopping off fingers, although that's certainly unfortunately common. very good point, i should have led with that. I haven't had issues with mine (rts08) holding alignment but it's a different model and ryobi may have changed the design. I also haven't pushed it - it's been used for plywood, mdf, and softwoods, with an appropriate blade. Definitely something to check every time you use the saw, if you want to try to make it work.
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Apr 18, 2024 17:27
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