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maplecheese posted:
use drywall screws with MDF as well (and drill pilot holes).
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Sep 5, 2008 03:50
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does anyone have any tips for staining and sealing a large desk? I'm more worried about being able to polyurethane a large surface and have it come out even and without brush strokes. I've made 2 desks before and using a little brush takes forever Also, I have 2" rails on each edge, any tips on sealing these? Since they're mostly vertical, I'm worried about the polyurethane dripping.
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Sep 20, 2008 21:32
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wormil posted:I don't think there is any shortcut with poly which is why I avoid it except for tabletops. Both lacquer and shellac will melt into previous layers but poly doesn't so each layer must be smooth before applying the next otherwise surface irregularities compound. Unless you can get it to flow smoothly, you'll have to sand at some point then gradually thin the poly putting on thinner and thinner layers. Its the only way I know of to get a nice smooth finish with poly. Thanks for the tip, I've done a bit of reading and I think I'm going to try and some aerosol lacquers
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Sep 21, 2008 16:49
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How is this table saw? I'm probably going to pick one up sometime in the next few months and I liked the rack and pinion adjustments for the fence. I don't know if that's just gimmicky though. http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=246259-70-DW744X&lpage=none
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Apr 5, 2009 15:12
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When I built my large desk last summer, I used wipe-on polyurethane. For my previous two desk buildings I had used brush-on poly, and that was a huge pain in the rear end due to brush strokes. The wipe-on poly turned out pretty great, I applied it with an old tshirt wrapped around a wad of paper towels. The only problem was that it took me a long time to finish it because I did like 12 coats.
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Jul 4, 2009 03:50
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Can some one tell me if mineral spirits are supposed to be milky colored? I'm finishing some of those cheap read-to-finish cabinets from lowes and decided to try making my own wipe on polyurethane. I bought Klean Strip brand odorless mineral spirits and mixed it 50:50 with Cabot glossy oil based polyurethane, resulting in a creamy white-tan concoction. It didn't really look right to me but I went ahead and put a coat on the cabinet frames and it looks ok. edit: I neglected to shake the mineral spirits prior to mixing, I suppose that might be a problem? I shook the remaining 3/4 of the mineral spirits and it looked about the same as the liquid I mixed with the poly
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Jul 28, 2009 18:16
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wormil posted:None I've ever used but a quick google search suggests that some brands are milky.
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Jul 29, 2009 15:36
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Loztblaz posted:The situation changed a little. I found some better plywood that's 3/4" inch oak hardwood plywood, and I'm using 1/2" MDF on the bottom. 3/4" wood screws would leave about half an inch of wiggle room, which makes me a lot more comfortable than just having a quarter inch left with a veneer on top. I'll have to sand up the MDF, but that's not a huge deal. When I made my current desk, I used 3/4" veneered maple plywood on top of 3/4" MDF and attached the two using 1 1/4" drywall screws. There's no dimpling or anything what-so-ever (I also pre-drilled every screw hole though)
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Aug 8, 2009 20:09
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So here's my current project, it's a bartop for my kitchen. I don't have all that much woodworking experience and all I know about woodworking comes from the internet. I've built a couple simple desks but that's about it. First, I bought 13 1"x2"x6' pieces of red oak from lowes and began chopping them up. Here's my basement:  Click here for the full 1024x768 image. All chopped up  Click here for the full 1024x768 image. Here I've started gluing them end on end. I lined up the pieces on an aluminum cutting guide I bought a while ago, pushed them together, and clamped them down. It worked pretty well  Click here for the full 1024x768 image. All the pieces glued back together into 6' sections and lined up  Click here for the full 1024x768 image. Gluing them edge to edge with those same aluminum cutting guides and some clamps. I need more clamps.  Click here for the full 1024x768 image. more of the same  Click here for the full 1024x768 image. Finished gluing them together, and took them to a local mill to have it drum sanded pretty flat. I actually managed to glue the boards together pretty drat well and they only took off around 1/16"  Click here for the full 1024x768 image. Gluing one of the edges on  Click here for the full 1024x768 image. Done gluing and set in place. My wife and I have completely remodeled the kitchen in the background (including removing a tile floor, sanding and refinishing the 75 year old hardwood floor). The cabinets in the background are the crappy ready-to-finish ones from lowes that we stained and finished, and I plan on finishing the bartop to match  Click here for the full 1024x768 image. Another view. I just bought that router today, and am going to order router bits so I can give the bartop a nice edge  Click here for the full 1024x768 image. Now a question: How should I attach the bartop? I currently have a 3/4" piece of plywood screwed into the studs of the half-wall there and the top is just set on top of it. I had originally thought to just put a bunch of screws up through the bottom, but I'm worried about the wood swelling and splitting somewhere down the line. Also, any suggestions on what kind of finish to put on it? I was just going to use wipe on poly
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Dec 13, 2009 04:10
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McBeth posted:wow that looks great, I wish I had the tools and the space.... Thanks, buying a house is a great way to get more space (and a great excuse to buy more tools  )
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Dec 17, 2009 17:33
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I have the craftsman version of that saw, the screw that locks the sliding part in place broke off and now I can't lock it in place
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Dec 27, 2009 00:30
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What are some of the woodworking forums are you guys going to? I've been reading a bit on the sawmillcreek forums.
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Jan 6, 2010 19:21
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GEMorris posted:Few tools are as dramatic of an improvement over the previous tool as the track saw like Festool and a few other companies make today. If I were starting from scratch that is the one tool I would definitely pay the big bucks for, and build the rest of my shop around it. That being said, I don't have one yet as I am poor. When I finally do buy one I fully expect to kick myself for not doing it sooner. I've been looking at getting the eurekazone ez smart saw guide system: http://eurekazone.com/products/detail/sgs.html
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Mar 23, 2010 22:37
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I've been looking at getting the eurekazone ez-smart track rather than the festool tracksaw. You just buy the track and attach your circular saw to their saw base (which rides on the track, of course). It looks pretty well thought out to me, and is quite a bit cheaper than the festool tracksaw The company has entire system going on, the track kits can be found here.
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Mar 26, 2010 19:11
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in case anyone cares, this seems like a pretty drat good deal for a tracksaw setup (I ordered one for myself, though Im not sure if it's the 5008mga or 5007mga saw that's included): https://www.heavydutytools.net/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=626 The site seems pretty reputable according to the guys at the woodnet forums. dyne fucked around with this message at 07:03 on Apr 3, 2010 |
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Apr 3, 2010 06:42
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Bah, someone around where I live must be clearing out their shop. They're selling a grizzly 6" jointer ($200), 15" planer ($225), and cabinet saw ($350). Too bad I'm poor/have no space/too busy with other projects.dur posted:If I don't want my dad spending more than $500 or so, what should I be asking for? Would I be better off with, say, a router and some good planes/chisels/hand saws, or an inexpensive table saw, or band saw, or compound mitre saw, or something else entirely? If I had a $500 budget I'd get a sliding compound miter saw, EZ smart tracksaw guide, router, and clamps
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Sep 6, 2010 04:29
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I got a deal on my ez smart track a while back from some tool website. Otherwise, I think it's direct from him or used. I love it, and it makes much nicer cuts than my $150 table saw edit: and if I were buying a cheap sliding compound miter saw I'd get that craftsman 7 1/4" one for around $100. I have a 10" one that I lug around all the time and it's a pain in the rear end, and the only advantage it has is that it has a greater depth of cut. dyne fucked around with this message at 18:56 on Sep 6, 2010 |
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Sep 6, 2010 18:51
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wormil posted:I find this to be a significant advantage though. I started with a 7 1/4" and it just wasn't very useful for my projects. Then I bought a 10" saw and often wish I had a 12". Mine isn't sliding though, just a straight chop saw. Yeah? The only time I've only used the extra capacity in the past couple years was when I was chopping 4x4 posts for my fence. I guess it depends on what you do
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Sep 6, 2010 22:38
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That, and regardless of moisture content the cedar would equalize with the environment pretty quickly
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Nov 3, 2010 14:25
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Bad Munki posted:That'd really depend on what kind of metal and what kind of cutting. For instance, with a proper blade, you can cut aluminum and other non-ferrous metals on an ordinary chop saw (done it with aluminum, worked great) or even, if you're feeling ballsy enough, on a table saw (so I hear, personally I wouldn't). Bah, I cut 1/8" off a hand plane blade with an abrasive wheel on my crappy table saw without too much problem (just went slow). The blade was free and slightly too large for my (also free) #7 jointer
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Nov 18, 2010 00:13
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Kill you? That's cause for celebration!
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Feb 23, 2011 02:05
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Silver Nitrate posted:table
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Mar 12, 2011 00:50
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I saw this video linked over at woodnet, I thought it was pretty neat: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q3utt2Y5aH0
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May 19, 2011 15:28
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DJCobol posted:Anyone care to review/critique my idea for a front load washer/dryer stand? That sounds pretty overbuilt, which isn't necessarily a bad thing other than 6x6s cost a lot. I'd just use normal 4x4s or 2 2x4s in an 'L,' and pressure treatment wouldn't be necessary (I assume you were just going to use PT because that's all you could find 6x6s in). Pressure treated lumber checks a lot as it dries and doesn't look too great, not to mention it will corrode fasteners. You could use 3/4" particle board with melamine on both sides, that'd look nice. I think it's $36 per 4x8' sheet and melamine edge banding is like $6.
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Jun 22, 2011 04:19
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Bad Munki posted:Guys, a (very cleanly cut) hole in the space time continuum seems to have opened over my kitchen sink, and non-euclidean mind-rending horrors are spewing forth. Too sharp?
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Apr 7, 2012 09:16
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cowofwar posted:This is probably a stupid question, but I'm going to be building a couple raised beds out of pressure treated 2x6x8 and 4x4x8 (8' long, 4' wide, with 2' 4x4 posts on the inside of each corner). I'll be securing the 4x4 posts to the 2x6 walls using lag bolts and have two questions. 1. 3.5 or 4" lags would be fine. I think that stainless fasteners look nicer, but hot dipped galvanized were a lot cheaper when i built my deck. Don't use any plain steel parts that wil be in contact with the pressure treated wood as they'll corrode, so use hot dipped or stainless washers as well. The fasteners at big box stores are pretty pricey, i got all my deck fasteners from wholesalebolts.com for like 1/3 the price. 2. Id probably have a helper hold the piece in place and temporarily fix the pieces together with a deck screw or two.
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Jun 5, 2012 14:22
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ChaoticSeven posted:Another commendable post. Have you noticed how insane clamp pricing has gotten though? Parallel clamps particularly. Makes me wish I'd known how it would go a few years ago. I would've taken advantage of Amazon's pricing egregiously. I dunno, I picked up 4 2 packs of 50" jet parallel clamps for about $60 on amazon a few months ago (8 clamps for $250ish)
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Sep 3, 2012 14:03
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So I bought a buttload of air dried roughcut 4/4 maple and beech on craigslist for $0.40/bd ft. I intend on using the beech for a nice woodworking bench; I should have enough to make it with a 4" top. Does anyone think Id have a significant problem skipping the jointing step (I dont have a jointer) and just run both sides through my planer? I figured if i end up with some cupping or twisting, it wouldnt be a huge deal because I can laminate complimentary pieces together and end up with something relatively straight. Plus it's just a workbench.
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Sep 29, 2012 21:28
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Wouldn't the planer make two smooth and parallel (albeit, non flat) sides? Would the glue not hold it okay, even with sufficient clamping force?
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Sep 29, 2012 22:19
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You can also make your own conditioner. Thin the finish with mineral spirits. I had pretty good results with my heart pine floors by thinning waterlox by 2/3 (1 part waterlox, 2 parts mineral spirits) prior to staining.
dyne fucked around with this message at 23:33 on Oct 18, 2012 |
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Oct 18, 2012 23:27
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I think the only sheets I've seen larger than 48x96 are sheets of MDF (49x97)
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Dec 12, 2012 04:12
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They look like I beam clamps
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Feb 7, 2014 19:11
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I have the dust deputy and I think it works well. I just bolted it to a 5 gallon plastic bucket that has a screw on lid (got it with some pool chemicals)
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Oct 8, 2014 15:36
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Shaocaholica posted:What's a good place to get ~24"x72" hardboard? lowe's and home depot sell 4x8' sheets for $8-9 for the 1/8," a couple bucks more for the 3/16." They'll cut it for free
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Feb 15, 2015 07:54
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Sylink posted:Don't the carbide straight cut bits for this, you want the spiral cut bits for heavy waste removal, I think. I doubt it makes a big difference as you're probably not going to be making deep plunge cuts with a router sled for flattening. Most people seem to use large diameter bowl bits. Edit: something like this http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/vp13-2502/pc_-_groove_forming dyne fucked around with this message at 16:00 on Apr 3, 2015 |
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Apr 3, 2015 15:50
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I spent most of the day today staining my soft maple cabinet doors and ran into a bit of a problem I don't quite understand. On many of the doors, I'm getting these little dots that aren't picking up the dye. They're all on the edge grain, and there's a clear distinction between the glued up maple boards within the panel of each door. One board may be dot free and the adjacent board may have a bunch of them. This is a portion of the worst one: My finishing schedule. I used a washcoat with 1:2 mixture of waterlox:mineral spirits to minimize splotching, waited 24 hours, then dyed with a water based transfast dye. The dye was flooded on with a brush and the excess wiped off. I used the same process on the cabinet face frames and veneered end panels last fall without any issue (ran out of warm weather last year and decided to just finish the cabinet doors when I finally had time to). The only differences compared to when I finished the face frames is that I used odorless mineral spirits and the dye was close to a year old. I'm inclined to think it's just from the grain of the wood in conjunction with the washcoat, but I haven't seen it before and wondered if I hosed something up. The doors don't look bad otherwise and I'm probably going to just go with it and finish the doors anyway. dyne fucked around with this message at 00:00 on Aug 20, 2015 |
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Aug 19, 2015 23:45
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Does anyone have a domino and want to share their thoughts? I don't really see any negative reviews besides price. I have a project coming up that it would be useful for and the wife wanted to buy me one to celebrate passing my boards.
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Sep 7, 2015 17:02
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Melamine refers to the plastic veneered part. I've only ever seen it used with particle board as the core.
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Oct 3, 2015 21:33
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card scraper?
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Oct 23, 2015 04:04
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Sointenly posted:Forstner bits: HarborFreight or spend the money on individual bits? Wont be using them too often, but need them for a Christmas gift project. I have the HF set and have used bits from it sporadically for 6 years. None of them have dulled that I've noticed. Its also handy to have all the sizes on hand for when the need for one arises. I was originally going to buy individuals and am glad I got the set.
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Nov 6, 2015 05:24
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