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optikalus posted:Platform bed frame / headboard Love this. I was actually just at Ikea looking for a bedframe, then figured I could probably make my own for less money. I've used power tools before, but I'm not a finished carpenter (I frame houses and decks for a living). Did you work off set plans, or did you just wing it?
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Jul 30, 2008 02:38
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Does OSB count as wood? I made a simple DIY shed, and used OSB in lieu of plywood to save money. In retrospect, I should have at least used plywood for the floor because I predict the OSB floor will start to de-laminate before summer hits and it stops raining so much. Any suggestions on how to protect the floor? Worst case scenario I can just cover the OSB floor with 1/2 plywood, but I was also toying with the idea of spray painting a small 32"x24" door mat at the entrance, which seems to taking the brunt of the floor damage. I have some left over spray on bedliner from a speaker box I was going to use. I was also going to post this in the project megathread, but was waiting to get some picks up first.
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Feb 4, 2010 16:03
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Sup fellow apprentice. I just built the shed, and sheated the floor joists with the OSB before standing the walls. So yes, the bottom plate is sitting on the OSB. The floor's not Fubared yet, but given the constant rain we get in Vancouver, I'm wanting to protect it now before it starts to de-laminate.
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Feb 8, 2010 04:10
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Floor joists are pressure treated 2x6's, but your right, I never thought of protecting the underside of the subfloor. There's no way I'm getting it now, but something to think about for the next one I build.
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Feb 8, 2010 06:08
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Anyone have any tips on how I can replicate this cut?  It seems to be made out of a 1x? comb-faced fascia material. I'm assuming it was run through a table saw to get those two lines, but how did they round the outside edge? Just a orbital sander, or some type of router bit?
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Jun 16, 2010 02:51
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Barn Owl posted:I believe it is called a beading bit on a router table Cool thanks, I'll look into that. I'm not much of a woodworking guy, most of my background is in construction, but how did they get a router bit to hit one side and not the straight edge? Just a really small bit? It's probably hard to tell from the picture but the gab can't be more than an 1/8".
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Jun 16, 2010 03:00
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So if I only have access to a router and a table saw a SOL?
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Jun 16, 2010 04:10
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I need some staining advice as I've never done it before. I decided to build a desk out of some old fir we had kicking around the shop. I got the top stained pretty well, ready for a polyurethane coat. However, the front panels are still tacky (8-10hours later). I'm thinking I didn't do my due diligence in wiping off the excess stain. Am I screwed / should I start thinking about replacing those front panels, or should I just wait a little longer for it to dry?
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Sep 16, 2010 18:17
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We're pulling down some old Fir posts and beams from a jobsite, and replacing them with steel beams. 6x6 posts and 6x10 beams. They are in descent condition minus a few drywall nails and Romex staples. How feasible is it to get 1x2-3" planks out of these? I was thinking of making some rips with my circ saw, then passing them through a table saw to straighten out the sides. Is it worth the effort? I'm a rough carpenter / paint grade finisher, not a woodworker, but I want to start making some furniture and don't have the cash for the nice wood you guys are using.
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Jun 29, 2011 15:27
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wormil posted:Ideally you'd want them resawn with a bandsaw, plane and joint them. I have resawn wood with my tablesaw and it was a pain although that was maple which is considerably harder than fir. You'll want to make a lot of very shallow cuts, just increasing the blade depth maybe 1/2" at a time. Having an idea of how much work is involved I don't know that I would tackle it with a circular + table saws but salvaging that old fir is a noble effort. Well worst case scenario I'll use the posts as landscape ties, wrap the hidden side with paper or something. The beams I was really hoping to make use of. 1/2" cuts to reduce tension/probabilty of binding, or reduce wear on blade, or? Quick non-related question. I was going to make a small coffee table and entertainment unit out of cheap fir or cedar. 2x material. I probably won't use 2x4, but is there any advantage of using wider material? I'm always fearful of 2x12's cupping more drastically vs 2x6's or something.
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Jun 30, 2011 02:37
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I'm working my way through this thread right now, and boy does it make me want to go buy some tools. Anyone have a Rigid router?(http://www.homedepot.ca/product/ridgid-heavy-duty-2hp-router-combo-kit/913358#BVRRWidgetID). I'm looking to replace the hand me down Powerfirst router my boss gave me when he his new setup. It's fine cutting through MDF (which is all I've used it for), but it's not a plunge. Also looking to get a cheap cheap biscuit joiner. Ryobi any good?
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Jul 1, 2011 04:48
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wormil posted:I bought the Porter Cable based on reviews at the time, it was killing everything else. It's the only one I've used but it is simple, flexible and gets the job done without complaint (by me). To be honest, I've never used a biscuit before. I was only going to use it to join mitered edges, and my local Home Depot let's me return anythign and everything, so I think i'll try out the Ryobi. I'm looking to make a variation of this (http://www.crateandbarrel.com/furniture/media-stands-consoles/ascend-espresso-55%22-open-storage-unit/s119660) except longer and with 2 center supports, to give 3 cubby's. If I were to use 5.5" wide 5/4 planks, (probably 4, I want it 20" deep), would biscuit joints be enough to laminate them together? Or should I stick with my original inclination and dowel them together?
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Jul 1, 2011 23:23
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Can we talk about acclimatization for a second? Assuming I buy some wood from an indoor/covered lumber yard and it doesn't get wet, should I just bring it inside for a few days? Should I cut the end of each board by 1/8" first? Rip all my lumber down to within an inch of what I need then leave it inside for a few days? Is there a substantial difference between soft and hard lumber? Whenever I finish a house my boss has the trim/flooring delivered a week early and let's it sit. That's unfortunately my only experience when it comes to acclimatizing wood, and I forgot to do it when I built my desk last year. Needless to say it's kinda hosed now and needs to be re done.
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Jul 3, 2011 18:09
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I just got into woodworking, so only recently graduated past the "laminate pieces of wood together to create a slab" phase to the plywood box phase. Hopefully as time progresses I can make more interesting things and actually have wooden legs for them instead of cheap ikea legs or MDF monstrosities. Desk slab + 2 slabs which were meant for a coffee table but I messed up and used them as a computer stand.  P1000914 by Reggie Died, on Flickr Generic media-unit-out-of-plywood. I chose measurements so that the center speaker would fit snugly under the TV, but it made the actual cubbyholes pretty tall. Disproportionally tall to the actual components, but one day I might make a new one.  P1000928 by Reggie Died, on Flickr  P1000927 by Reggie Died, on Flickr I have a few more pictures of my desk over at the PYDesktop thread. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2920891&pagenumber=116#lastpost
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Oct 8, 2011 21:22
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The Wormy Guy posted:Love this. I'm planning on building something exactly this size, wide and low (looks to be about 60 - 70"?) Do you have any plans you worked from or can you give me details on what wood you used, thickness, etc? Is the back open or did you leave openings for the cables? It's made out of basic pine-faced playwood, and framed with some s4sfir strips. On the next one I'll use much nicer wood, but used the cheap stuff (5/8 or 3/4) for my first try. I also plan to dado the center verticals next time, this one was just glued and screwed. I can post a better picture if you want.
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Oct 27, 2011 02:43
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I built some drawers for my truck bed to store tools. Cheap 5/8 plywood (pine?) which slide under a shelf so I can still haul lumber and other contraction things. I plan on painting the shelf black, so when you glance through the tinted canopy windows, it appears somewhat empty. I don't know what to do about the drawers. Either paint them black as well or some sort of finish. The goal is cheap and water/weather resistant. Any thoughts?
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Dec 1, 2012 18:33
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Dillbag posted:Not sure if I should be posting this in the FIF thread, but thought I'd post here first. You can probably just use a circ saw if your steady enough. It would also be an easy enough jig to set up to run it through a table saw, but running 4x4 posts through a table saw sucks. Or, if your in North Vancouver, I could do it for you for free access to your gym 
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Jan 28, 2013 05:34
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Yeah, it can be a tricky cut. And BE SAFE! I had to drive a co-worker to the hospital last week. Cut his thumb clean off. And he is a journeyman carpenter with a decade of experience.
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Jan 28, 2013 07:27
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Guitarchitect posted:jesus, how did that happen? could they reattach it? I'm still not even sure. From what I could piece together, he was awkwardly supporting a PT 2x10 while cutting a stringer, the saw binded and went back over his thumb. Very preventable, and from what I've been told a fairly rare occurrence(full amputation of digit via circ saw). I was in charge of the site so I ended up driving him to the hospital...worst seven minute car ride of my life. Very sobering experience, and I actually avoided using saws for a day. Moral of the story; don't be stupid, respect power tools and ALWAYS apply 100% of your focus while working with them. Edit: They were able to re-attach it, as it was a fairly clean cut (hardly any blood either....maybe the hot saw cauterized the wound?), but time will tell if he will have feeling and full movement. It was below the thumb knuckle. Reggie Died fucked around with this message at 04:04 on Jan 29, 2013 |
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Jan 29, 2013 04:02
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