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Is it just me, or did Saw Stop replacement cartridges get cheaper? They're only $69 now, I could have sworn they were close to $300 a year or three ago. $69 to save a finger or an arm is a hell of a deal. e: Blades get slightly mangled too, but blades can be repaired, or if not a blade is probably about $69 too. Still a hell of a deal.
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Jan 27, 2013 02:05
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Hypnolobster posted:Is it just me, or did Saw Stop replacement cartridges get cheaper? They're only $69 now, I could have sworn they were close to $300 a year or three ago. I have no idea but just from reading comments in other forums I would have to believe they are either $60, $100+, or free.
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Jan 27, 2013 07:05
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Not sure if I should be posting this in the FIF thread, but thought I'd post here first. What kind of shop should I be looking for to cut a number of 8 foot long 4x4 fence posts lengthwise at an angle? I'm assuming I would need a fairly large table saw or band saw. I'm building a weight lifting platform in my sloped-floor garage loosely following these instructions. There is a 2 & 11/18ths inch rise from the bottom of the slope to the top of the slope and the necessary cut has been marked on the 4x4 with a chalk line. It has been suggested to me to just shim the bottom end of the platform, but I wouldn't trust the integrity or stability of the platform once I've loaded it with 200-300 pounds of weights & gear. Or would that be ok? I'm fairly new at this kind of stuff, but have just the right amount of knowledge and disposable income to be dangerous. I'm located in Vancouver, Canada if anyone has any actual shop recommendations.
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Jan 28, 2013 01:36
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Skinny Bins posted:How are you storing your milled pieces? It is advisable to lay them on a flat surface with narrow spacers between each to allow for airflow around the entire work piece. This prevents one face of the board from releasing/gaining more moisture than the others. Alternatively, stack your pieces without spacers and lay an extra piece on top to prevent airflow on the exposed face. These methods will not prevent warping entirely, but will help keep it to a minimum.
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Jan 28, 2013 01:37
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Costello Jello posted:I know you guys are mostly into staining or sealing your work, but I'm hoping some of you have some experience painting furniture also. I got a pretty decent gloss with no visible brush strokes on a shelf I painted just by rubbing the paint down really good with #000 steel wool after each of the three or four coats of paint.
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Jan 28, 2013 04:47
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I'd give it a light sanding to smooth it over and then use spray paint.
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Jan 28, 2013 05:27
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Dillbag posted:Not sure if I should be posting this in the FIF thread, but thought I'd post here first. You can probably just use a circ saw if your steady enough. It would also be an easy enough jig to set up to run it through a table saw, but running 4x4 posts through a table saw sucks. Or, if your in North Vancouver, I could do it for you for free access to your gym 
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Jan 28, 2013 05:34
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Ha, Commercial Drive, sadly. I've thought about renting a circular saw and doing it myself, but I don't really have access to a long, safe surface to cut on.
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Jan 28, 2013 06:20
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Yeah, it can be a tricky cut. And BE SAFE! I had to drive a co-worker to the hospital last week. Cut his thumb clean off. And he is a journeyman carpenter with a decade of experience.
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Jan 28, 2013 07:27
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Dillbag posted:What kind of shop should I be looking for to cut a number of 8 foot long 4x4 fence posts lengthwise at an angle? I'm assuming I would need a fairly large table saw or band saw. You assume correctly, a 12" tablesaw or a bandsaw for resawing. Probably start by calling around cabinet shops in the area or contacting a local woodworking club. Tell them you need a taper cut on 4x4 posts. An alternative would be to taper cut 2x4 stock and glue it up to final size.
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Jan 28, 2013 08:27
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Great, thanks for the advice everyone.
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Jan 28, 2013 19:16
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Digging through the attic I found 3 woodworking books I had forgotten about : Construction of American Furniture Treasures by Lester Margon. There are some interesting pieces here like George Washington's desk, several Duncan Phyfes, some other stuff along with a smattering of Pennsylvania German and Colonial both styles are generally hideous but the author managed to find examples I actually like. Fluff free, this is all shop drawings along with construction tips and sometimes suggestions for updating the style. Table Saw Magic by Tolpin (whom I believe has sworn off power tools and become strictly a hand tool guy) This is timely as my saw needs a tune up and I've put it off too long. Making Authentic Shaker Furniture by John Shea. An overall history of the Shakers along with examples of their craftsmanship; about half the book is shop drawings. I made a foot stool and a trestle table from the drawings.
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Jan 28, 2013 22:37
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wormil posted:several Duncan Phyfes Thanks, I am huge Duncan Phyfe fan, getting this one right now!
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Jan 28, 2013 22:58
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Reggie Died posted:Yeah, it can be a tricky cut. And BE SAFE! jesus, how did that happen? could they reattach it? one of our clients at my office is a hand surgeon. he was working late the other night and when he was asked why he said "oh, in emergency... table saws are the bane of my existence"
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Jan 29, 2013 00:11
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My dad has started to develop a fairly decent woodshop in his basement after buying some tools and equipment from a coworker, and when I visited for the holidays I got to see all the cool things you can do with woodworking. He and my brother have been making some things and it's got me interested in starting to get into some basics. Growing up learning to build things from scratch was a skill I never developed, and I'd like to start to venture into that world. I don't live in the same state, so I'm not going to have access to all the power tools and other equipment he has. The house I rent however has a large backyard, and I think it would be a good place to put a portable workbench and be able to try to build some simple things like a table or nightstand, learn to use hand tools, learn to make dovetails, etc. I think given my current situation using mostly hand tools, and buying some power tools as I need them for whatever project I attempt will be my best bet. I'm going down in a couple weeks and we're going to build a very basic portable work table based off this one I found on youtube. Folding Leg Work Table I'm wondering if anyone has any suggestions for a cheap but useable woodworking vise that would be able to mount to a small table like this. I've found a few on amazon. One Two Three But these are just what I found briefly searching a few minutes ago. There are also a good many on ebay. I've read enough so far to know that most say it's not a good idea to buy cheap tools/equipment but since this table is most likely going to be a beginner and temporary table, I don't want to get too much into a vise. The other question I had, was if anyone had suggestions for a way to easily level the legs on the table. This will be frequently transported out into the yard to use as a workspace, and back into the house for storage. The yard is flat, but obviously getting the table level every time could be tricky if I'm relying on scrap wood, etc to prop up the legs. Do they make any adjustable feet that I can attach to the legs to make this easier? Thanks for any advice.
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Jan 29, 2013 01:34
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Guitarchitect posted:jesus, how did that happen? could they reattach it? Plus I have a high deductible health plan, which basically means if I do hurt myself badly enough to go to the ER, I'm going to be spending at a minimum of $1500 just to meet my deductible. I'm thinking these days with the cost of health care, I'd probably come close to hitting my out of pocket maximum for something really serious. Makes the Sawstop seem like a bargain (plus they're supposed to be pretty good saws).
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Jan 29, 2013 01:40
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wormil posted:Digging through the attic I found 3 woodworking books I had forgotten about : I'll look for these the next time I go to the library. I just finished Krenov's first book. There is a paragraph in it there he talks about planes and spoke straight to my heart. David Charlesworth's books are worth a read too.
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Jan 29, 2013 03:05
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Guitarchitect posted:jesus, how did that happen? could they reattach it? I'm still not even sure. From what I could piece together, he was awkwardly supporting a PT 2x10 while cutting a stringer, the saw binded and went back over his thumb. Very preventable, and from what I've been told a fairly rare occurrence(full amputation of digit via circ saw). I was in charge of the site so I ended up driving him to the hospital...worst seven minute car ride of my life. Very sobering experience, and I actually avoided using saws for a day. Moral of the story; don't be stupid, respect power tools and ALWAYS apply 100% of your focus while working with them. Edit: They were able to re-attach it, as it was a fairly clean cut (hardly any blood either....maybe the hot saw cauterized the wound?), but time will tell if he will have feeling and full movement. It was below the thumb knuckle. Reggie Died fucked around with this message at 04:04 on Jan 29, 2013 |
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Jan 29, 2013 04:02
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nosleep posted:I'm going down in a couple weeks and we're going to build a very basic portable work table based off this one I found on youtube. Folding Leg Work Table I'm wondering if anyone has any suggestions for a cheap but useable woodworking vise that would be able to mount to a small table like this. I've found a few on amazon. Of those 3 I would buy the Olympia even though it's smaller because it has a metal dog. Drill dog holes and make dogs from dowels and you can clamp long stuff. Matter of fact I was thinking of buying another vice and I might buy one of those. When I first read, "folding table," I thought "Oh god, here we go," but that's actually an impressive little table that looks very usable. nosleep posted:But these are just what I found briefly searching a few minutes ago. There are also a good many on ebay. I've read enough so far to know that most say it's not a good idea to buy cheap tools/equipment but since this table is most likely going to be a beginner and temporary table, I don't want to get too much into a vise. Some things are worth buying cheap, some are not. For example, a cheap drill press is better than no drill press; a cheap vise is better than no vise but a cheap table or hand saw will make you hate woodworking. As for the table legs just make them all the same length and don't worry about leveling unless it's a problem. If you start buying hand tools, look at vintage tools. Most stuff made before WWII is better than all but the best of today's hand tools and if you are careful can be purchased for the same or less than today's hand tools. A good example, I bought a George Bishop 1880's rip saw awhile back, sharpened, for $20 shipped. I felt like I 'ripped' the guy off. But Bishop saws aren't collectible and are excellent quality. Hand braces -- there are tons of them out there but they were made in a bunch of quality levels from good - better - excellent & premium. Most of the time a top quality brace can be had for the same price as an entry level brace because many people selling them have no clue.
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Jan 29, 2013 04:40
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LordOfThePants posted:I put away a little money at the start of this year and set up a monthly investment into that account with the plan of having enough for a SawStop at the end of the year. It will be a good purchase I think. Since I bought a nice big bandsaw, I've been using that for almost everything and just cleaning up the edges on the jointer or with a handplane. I couldn't live without a tablesaw, so Sawstop it is. We use Sawstops in the shop at my community college and they're amazing saws. Comparable to the Powermatic unisaws in build quality. I'm coveting one tho' I'm probably gonna try to pick up one of the Powermatics they're going to auction off next year when they replace them with more Sawstops (the administration loves the Sawstops for liability reasons).
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Jan 29, 2013 05:57
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If those Sawstop people made a freehand router I'd buy it. Routers frighten me.
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Jan 29, 2013 08:13
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Dillbag posted:Ha, Commercial Drive, sadly. I've thought about renting a circular saw and doing it myself, but I don't really have access to a long, safe surface to cut on. Hey Neighbour! Personally, I think shimming the platform is a perfectly viable option. You'd be surprised how much of the world around you is sitting on shims. This method does depend on the amount of slope and the size of your shims though. If I were to build the same thing, I would build a furniture kick-style platform out of plywood to make scribing to the floor a lot easier. But if you've bought your materials already, have them cut down to an angle close to what you need, and find a power planer to do any fine adjustments at home (because you probably won't get the angle perfect the first time, and you won't want to be going back and forth to someones shop.) If you are looking for tools, consider the Vancouver Tool Library Though I don't think they have a power planer in their inventory right now. I do have access to a shop if you're still looking or need some advice.
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Jan 29, 2013 16:27
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Howdy, neighbour! What do you mean by a furniture kick-style platform? Do you think a shimmed platform would hold 300-400 pounds of weights, gear & people? How should I shim it assuming I built the platform without taper cutting the 4x4s? Or should I even bother with the platform in the first place? That's a lot of questions but I'm new to this stuff, so thanks very much for the help! I dropped off a flyer at the Miller Goodwood co-op last night to see if any of their members would be interested in doing the cutting for me (thanks for the suggestion, wormil).
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Jan 29, 2013 19:39
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wormil posted:Of those 3 I would buy the Olympia even though it's smaller because it has a metal dog. Drill dog holes and make dogs from dowels and you can clamp long stuff. Matter of fact I was thinking of buying another vice and I might buy one of those. When I first read, "folding table," I thought "Oh god, here we go," but that's actually an impressive little table that looks very usable. Thanks for the advice. I ordered the Olympia and plan on making dog holes and dogs to use with it as you suggested. Hopefully everything works out ok. I will definitely take your advice on looking for some vintage hand tools. Many of the tools in my dad's shop were passed down from my grandfather and they're old as hell and still work great.
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Jan 30, 2013 03:29
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I'm building a cookbook stand for my girlfriend's birthday coming up similar to the one below. I have all the pieces cut and sanded, I'm planning on staining the wood, my question is, would it be better to stain it prior to gluing it, or staining after it's been glued? I don't know how well glue sticks to stain,that's why I'm asking. I have Gorilla Glue on hand, would it be better to use it or go out and buy some wood glue for it. Thanks in advance, here's what it will hopefully look like, I'll post pics once I'm done. 
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Jan 30, 2013 03:50
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Meow Meow Meow posted:I have all the pieces cut and sanded, I'm planning on staining the wood, my question is, would it be better to stain it prior to gluing it, or staining after it's been glued? I don't know how well glue sticks to stain,that's why I'm asking. Since you have the Gorilla Glue I'd use it. Cover the joints with blue tape if you stain first. Some people finish first then glue. The only downside is Gorilla Glue foams and expands, it could bleed out onto the stain and cause finishing problems. You can avoid that by putting tape along the joint edges so any squeeze out won't soak into the wood. What kind of wood are you using?
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Jan 30, 2013 04:52
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I would go out and get decent wood glue that doesnt expand and stick properly to hardwood. I had a bad experience with that poo poo just not sticking, and what was supposed to be a nice door just falling apart whenever you put any pressure on the joins.
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Jan 30, 2013 04:57
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I'd use Elmers before I used Gorilla Glue personally, I've seen so many Gorilla Glue joints break apart. Not that there's anything wrong with Elmers glue mind you, it'll get the job done.
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Jan 30, 2013 05:53
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Dillbag posted:Howdy, neighbour! What do you mean by a furniture kick-style platform? Do you think a shimmed platform would hold 300-400 pounds of weights, gear & people? How should I shim it assuming I built the platform without taper cutting the 4x4s? Or should I even bother with the platform in the first place? I should say a cabinet style kick, now that I think about it, but that's just semantics. I've included a basic example here:  This is a basic example of the type of toe kick used to support an installed section of lower cabinetry. The idea is that it allows for a strong base that can be leveled (by shimming or scribing) and placed in any location. Because the kick is built of plywood that is stood on edge, it can carry a large amount of weight, and can easily be made stronger by adding more cross members. It is far easier scribe a platform with 3/4' edges than it is to try and cut 4x4s at the exact angle of your floor. If you get the angle wrong you'll end up shimming the platform anyway, or waste a lot of effort re-cutting it. Not that shims are a bad option. They're particularly good if the discrepancies in the floor are minor, which is where a few hardwood wedges will work just fine. If your exercise machine has a sturdy base and the floor isn't too badly sloped, I'd recommend just shimming the unit itself. If you use two opposing wedges, it should create a flat and sturdy enough point that the base won't slide off. Like this:  This method works well because it's super easy to change the height and therefore level the unit, but can also be very sturdy. You could even attach the wedges to your machine to make sure they don't move. Anyway, this is all so general and scattered because I have no idea what kind of slope you're dealing with, nor the type of machine that is to be placed on it. If I had those details, I could give a definitive recommendation. As it is, I would personally go with shimming the machine if possible (cheapest) or making a plywood platform (most versatile/reliable.)
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Jan 30, 2013 08:11
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After reading this article from Fine Woodworking: http://www.titebond.com/Libraries/News_Articles/HowStrongisYourGlue_FWW.sflb.ashx I'll probably never use Gorilla glue again. Tightbond is cheap so I just use that.
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Jan 30, 2013 12:24
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Was out walking the dog when I saw a load of wood maybe 50m from my front door step. Someone must have taken down a pergola or something, because I walked away with 10 lengths of 1.5m-1.6m * 10cm * 5cm hardwood, plus probably about 5 half lengths. Should keep me going for projects for a while. Must be about $200-$300 bucks worth at least.
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Jan 30, 2013 15:19
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Thanks for the advice guys, I'm heading to the hardware store this weekend so I'll pick up some woodglue, I don't want to deal with the expansion of gorilla glue. I'm using red oak to make this, I'm going to try staining it first as well.
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Jan 30, 2013 21:08
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Today was a snow day so I got to spend the day in my workshop. I am building a cabinet to match the lower part of this: I still need to make the base for this which it no problem. But since I am out of lumber I started making the form to make the drawer fronts. Or in my case she wants two doors. I'm making faux-drawer fronts to mount on doors that will swing open. This is to match the existing entertainment stand and act as a tv stand between the pillars. Here is the form.  I took a 1/4" piece of mdf and cut 1/8" deep groves in it to make a flexible caul. It flexes really well. I am going to do a bent wood lamination, or at least attempt to. I've never tried it before. So now I need to find some 1/4" thick by 8" wide red oak. I'm not sure what I should laminate it too though? Does anyone have suggestions or advice?
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Jan 30, 2013 22:04
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Meow Meow Meow posted:I'm using red oak to make this, I'm going to try staining it first as well. For a cool effect, use a darker pore filler.
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Jan 31, 2013 06:36
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Here is my first attempt at a bent lamination. I'm just using 3 layers of 1/4" plywood.
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Feb 1, 2013 15:06
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Needs more clamps.
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Feb 1, 2013 15:33
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Obsurveyor posted:Needs more clamps. 
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Feb 1, 2013 16:28
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Ha! My friend sent me the same picture when I showed him my glue up.
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Feb 1, 2013 17:15
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I've been keeping an eye out for a table saw and these two popped up on craigslist today - $95 (Ryobi BTS15)  $150  Opinions on either? The more expensive one claims to have been only used for ~50 cuts and then he bought a bigger one. Can't tell if the first one can handle larger pieces of wood like the second one can, I don't have much space in my basement, so being small / portable is a big plus. bimmian fucked around with this message at 22:07 on Feb 4, 2013 |
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Feb 4, 2013 21:23
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bimmian posted:Opinions on either? The more expensive one claims to have been only used for ~50 cuts and then he bought a bigger one. Can't tell if the first one can handle larger pieces of wood like the second one can, For what it's worth, Ryobi tablesaws like that are flimsy and not worth it unless it's CHEAP and you're willing to do something about stability. We have one at my work and although we're not a carpentry shop, nobody's used it in over 5 years. Scale this advice to your level of precision/quality blah blah but in my experience these are an emergency job site wreck it and dump it investment.
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Feb 4, 2013 22:21
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