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I guess this is the best thread for it. I need to get some plywood cut -- I could cut it myself, but I'm sure Home Depot will do a better job. The thing is, the dimensions I need don't really leave any slack room in the 8'x4' sheet. About how much would I lose from Home Depot's cuts on the panel saw? I figure I can lose up to about 1/8" before it will start to matter.
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Apr 26, 2009 13:00
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optikalus posted:Home Depot won't ever do 'precise' cuts. You're going to lose 1/8" no matter what, as that's the width of the blade itself. If you have a circular saw, it's easy to make precise cuts. You just need a backing board clamped to the board you want to cut. This will keep the blade straight for you. I also usually replace the blade in the saw with one with a higher tooth count. This will reduce the board's want to splinter. They had 24x48 boards, which is basically what I needed. I also got a Ryobi circular saw on sale for $38, but I think it's too loud to use in my apartment except in the middle of the day, so this will have to wait.
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Apr 27, 2009 01:48
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Looking for a table saw for a small workshop, upgrading from a Ryobi mistake purchase. I don't have a huge budget, I'm a dabbler at best so far, and I want it to be mobile. The R4512 is the right choice, right?
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Nov 20, 2019 18:14
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Falco posted:Or the Delta 36-725 which pretty much directly competes with the R4512. If you want something smaller, the Dewalt DW745 and DW7480 are great options too. So I somehow had never heard of the 36-725, and now I've completely flip-flopped. My understanding of the issues most folks have with the R4512 are: a) blade alignment issues they've apparently fixed with a redesigned trunion several years ago, b) kinda flimsy fence that requires finagling to lock down square every time, and c) kinda flimsy rails that can bend, especially if you do something like put a router table extension in the wing, which I might want to do. It seems like none of these are a problem with the Delta, and that the fence is basically a Biesemeyer fence. It's also $50 less. edit: I guess the other difference is that it's only got a 2 1/2" dust port, but I'm using a shop vac for DC at the moment, and probably will be for a while. So I guess I'll restate my original question? more falafel please posted:Looking for a table saw for a small workshop, upgrading from a Ryobi mistake purchase. I don't have a huge budget, I'm a dabbler at best so far, and I want it to be mobile. The Delta 36-725 is the right choice, right?
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Nov 21, 2019 21:30
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Leperflesh posted:You can get a plastic adapter for different sized dust port/vacuum tube sizes from Amazon for like ten bucks. Right, I'm not worried about this. It's theoretically a downside if I want full 4" flow to a dedicated DC in the future, but for now and the forseeable future I'll probably be wheeling a shop vac over to whatever tool I'm using, so 2 1/2" (the same as my shop vac) is perfectly fine.
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Nov 21, 2019 21:46
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My shop is in my basement, and the floors aren't level (the house is 113 years old, so I don't blame it). I also need to keep shop furniture/tool stands on casters because I don't have enough room to keep everything in one place. I'm considering putting some kind of cheap flooring down on the parts of the floor that I keep benches/tools/etc on that would do a decent job of leveling. I don't want to spend more than $1-2/sf for this -- I'm thinking maybe OSB with some shims and then cheap vinyl/foam interlocking tiles on top?
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Dec 4, 2019 00:14
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Got my Delta 36-725 set up and aligned, finally. Took most of the day Saturday to get it in the basement and set up, then 3 tries over 3 days to get the blade aligned. Out of box, the blade/motor assembly was off by ~3/16" over the length of the blade, which is... awful: front:  back:  Running through instructions online for adjusting the blade alignment (including the powerpoint Delta CS supposedly sends you if you ask about it), there were only instructions for adjusting it the other way, i.e. fixing it if the front of the blade was too far to the right. When I tried nudging the back into parallel, the front moved left enough that it scraped the throat plate. Eventually I figured out how to shift the front over to the left. There's still only about 1/8" of clearance, so I might need to make ZC inserts for bevels, or try to nudge the whole thing over more. But this was such a PITA that I don't want to gently caress with it ever again. If I could have easily gotten it back in the box (which is destroyed) and out of the basement I would have returned it, but I'm glad I didn't have to. Now that it's set up though, what a dream. I had been using a Ryobi Mistake, and it's just... better in every way. I actually feel like I have control of the workpiece, I trust the fence to lock parallel, I'm not getting giant blade mark gouges on rip cuts, the miter gauge is actually usable, I can actually use my dado stack. In comparison, the Ryobi feels like a fundamentally unsafe tool. edit: I did have one problem -- I was making repeated crosscuts on a ~1.5" wide piece of pine with a stopblock on my rip fence. The first couple were perfect, but then they started jamming about halfway through -- blade was spinning fine, but it seemed like it needed an unsafe amount of force to push the piece through the last 1/2" or so. Then I saw the peeled up front of the warning sticker on the throat plate 
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Jan 7, 2020 18:13
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Leperflesh posted:e. more falafel, do yourself a huge favor and just plan to get/make a zero clearance insert anyway. Oh most definitely. I've got a backlog of jigs/accessories I need to make -- my old Ryobi had the awful nonstandard miter slots with the notches in them that make it basically impossible to make jigs of any kind, so I want to make all the stuff I've been pining for: zero clearance insert, crosscut sled, miter/picture frame sled, taper/edge joint jig, spline jig, box joint jig. That's just off the top of my head.
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Jan 7, 2020 21:12
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I have a basement shop, without any windows that currently open. Am I stuck finishing outside (for anything with more VOCs than brushed/HVLP paint or BLO) until I get to a point where I can open a window to get decent ventilation? I once tried to finish a small piece with spray lacquer with a fan going and had to leave the house for an hour. I've used Danish oil without problems, but it still puts off some VOCs and isn't all that protective to begin with. Shellac just puts off ethanol as far as I know, but it's not suitable for any exterior use, etc.
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Feb 5, 2020 17:51
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The March Hare posted:Thanks for the clarification. Going to head to home depot today to grab some stuff. My plan is to just sand it to wood and clear coat it. I've never done anything like this before, but from reading it seems like polyurethane should be what I use for a table that will see some use, does that sound right? I like the sound of using something like linseed oil more but its completely based on emotional response. Oil finishes are great for color, but they don't build up any protective layer on top of the wood. For a table like that, you're going to want a varnish like polyurethane.
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Feb 20, 2020 23:08
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I've been going through Steve Ramsey's Weekend Workshop course, and man, it's been super nice. I have most of one side of my basement, which ends up being ~9ft x ~18ft. Dropdown work center with storage (I'll get the sanding stuff out of there soon)   Drill/driver cabinet, where my router may end up living when it's not in the table:  Shop in mostly "put away" mode a few weeks ago, the floor has been cleaned up and those godawful 2x4/OSB shelves are gone  Lumber cart for cutoffs/ sheet goods:  "Handi-cart" for rolling around the shop and giving me a place to put poo poo temporarily (push block, riving knife when the dado set is in, blade wrench):  Lumber rack mounted to wall (the wall isn't plumb because the house is 114 years old and the floor isn't anything close to flat) and lumber cart loaded up, where the lovely shelves were  Next things on the docket are a miter saw station with folding wings and t-track in the fences, a cabinet like the drill one for sanding supplies, french cleat hangers for hand tools, and some small carts for shop vac/cyclone, router table, and maybe a flip top cart for the 10" bandsaw and stationary sanders.
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Mar 6, 2020 18:41
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Sockser posted:Don’t put fences on your miter station. The fences on your saw should be the source of truth. Put t track in the wings instead. I'm considering this too. I was going to make the fences adjustable, and since they're folding wings, removing the fences wouldn't give me the space back. Any other reasons the fences are a bad idea?
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Mar 6, 2020 18:55
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more falafel please posted:I'm considering this too. I was going to make the fences adjustable, and since they're folding wings, removing the fences wouldn't give me the space back. Any other reasons the fences are a bad idea? After doing a little research including the Wood Whisperer video, I'm now heavily leaning to no fence.
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Mar 6, 2020 21:49
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DevNull posted:The best part of living in a house that is over 100 years old is that I can just blame the floor. If I put something on my basement floor (house was built in 1906) and it *doesn't* wobble, I hosed up.
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Mar 10, 2020 20:49
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JEEVES420 posted:structurally yes, but biscuits hide while splines do it proudly. If they're doing it proudly, you can trim them with a flush trim saw.
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Mar 13, 2020 17:22
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Jhet posted:Oh, I didn’t get it on the first pass. That’s reeeaaally solid pun work there. Yeah, it doesn't all hit on the first pass, it sneaks up on you.
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Mar 14, 2020 04:11
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The Spookmaster posted:There is a cutlist plugin for sketchup but i think its only for sheet goods. Ive used http://workshop-buddy.com/cut-optimization-calculator.html once or twice and it's always given me great results. I would think you could build the model in sketchup and just plug all of your individual pieces into that. What's a 1x4 other than a very narrow, single ply piece of sheet goods?
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Apr 10, 2020 17:49
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BobbyDrake posted:Due to working from home, I’m building myself a desk. Nothing fancy, it’s literally made of construction 2x4s, 2x6s and 2x2s. I’m staining it with minwax oil based stain. I’ve laid the rags I used out flat to dry so they didn’t spontaneously combust. Now that they are dry and stiff, is there still a combustion danger? Nope, now that they're dry you can just throw them out. The problem is that when hardening oils dry, they release heat, so if they're bundled up, they can self-combust. They're still probably more flammable than a clean rag, but totally safe for the trash.
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Apr 24, 2020 01:12
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:It's funny this should come up because today I learned that Minwax oil stain doesn't actually have drying oils in it, so the rags shouldn't self-combust in any case (but pretend they will). Oh, interesting. Well, overkill then, I guess. I just lay out my rags for anything that offgases a bunch of VOCs (or BLO). My shop has a concrete basement floor and I do most of my finishing outside, so I just lay them out on the concrete and toss them the next day.
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Apr 24, 2020 03:06
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Cognac McCarthy posted:Hello thread, I'm starting in on woodworking essentially from scratch, knowledge wise. The first month of quarantine left me with time to finally sand and stain my shed, plus money to buy necessary tools. So I bought a sheet sander and when I found it really fun to use, I built a couple floating shelves for my shed and wife's plants (really just cutting a board down, sanding and staining the pieces). I want to build a couple freestanding shelves to hold stuff we've got on ugly IKEA tables and in overstuffed closets next, so I ordered a leftie-friendly circular saw. Picking better wood will definitely help, even at the big box stores. Spend some time picking through the pile, sight all the way down a board by eye and you'll be able to see which ones are cupped/bowed/twisted. Get some clamps. The very cheap F-style clamps from Harbor Freight are, in this hobbyist's opinion, fine, and they're cheap enough that you can just get a whole ton of them and always have another clamp or two to try to bring something straight or square or flush. I think you'd get a lot of mileage out of a pocket hole jig. It's basically the easiest way to join two boards at a right angle without learning a shitton of technique and still being moderately strong. As a new dabbling hobbyist, you probably don't need a table saw, and I want to recommend against the mistake I made, which was buying the cheapest Ryobi table saw, because "it's probably fine" and "I don't really need the bells and whistles". Don't get me wrong, I love my table saw, but I hated my lovely Ryobi and avoided using it whenever possible. You should make a decent ($400-700) investment in a table saw, and if you just want to explore the hobby, you can definitely get by without it. If you find yourself itching to rip stock to any width and cut dados and rabbets and build jigs, save up a little bit and get a nice table saw. I will recommend getting a miter saw, however. Getting nice, clean, straight, square crosscuts with minimal setup and minimal fuss is a game changer. The 10" Ryobi I got for like $90 has been working fine for me for 4 or 5 years, so it's a pretty small investment. Get some squares: I'd recommend getting a 12" combination square, a speed square, and a carpenters square. Whatever they got at Home Depot is fine. You can upgrade to a fancy German-engineered one if you feel like you need to later. I'd recommend checking out Ana White and Steve Ramsey on youtube. Ana White has tons of furniture designs that generally don't involve any cuts you can't make with a miter saw or a circ saw with a straight edge, a drill, and a pocket hole jig. Steve Ramsey has tons of videos on woodworking with a relatively limited set of tools, mostly focused on teaching concepts (although now he's just doing near-daily videos of whatever he's working on, but, you know, Rona).
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May 19, 2020 07:32
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I have an Avanti dado stack and it sucks. The chippers are all at different heights, so it doesn't give flat bottom grooves, and it's hard to get the chipper teeth aligned so they don't immediately knock into each other when I start tightening the arbor nut. Any reason I should *not* buy this Freud set for what looks like basically 50% off list? https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Stacked-Dado-Saws-SD208S/dp/B072MJ2V9J/
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May 23, 2020 22:28
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Also, I bought some float glass and sandpaper for "scary sharp" because I'd like to get a couple of planes, maintain the edge on my chisels, etc. I don't think I like "scary sharp", there's an awful lot of finicky work to get everything perfect, and if I mess up and push a blade instead of pull it, I just ruined like $5 worth of sandpaper. If I go with diamond stones, I really only need like 3 and a strop, right? Any recommendations on a set?
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May 23, 2020 23:40
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I currently have zero hand planes and would like to have more than zero. I have a bunch of power tools, so I'd likely be going for a vaguely hybrid style. There's not much in the way of vintage tools near me, unless I want to mine estate sales and stuff like that. Does a Stanley Bailey low angle block plane and a Sweetheart #62 (both new) sound like a good starting point? It seems like the 62 with a couple different blades will let me kind of do the job of a #4, an #5, and maybe kinda-sorta a jointer. I don't really want to spend the extra money on a Lie Nielsen or Veritas.
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May 24, 2020 05:19
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Leperflesh posted:What do you want to do with your planes? Mostly things that I'm now doing with sandpaper -- flushing up edges, breaking corners/chamfering, that sort of thing. But I'd also like to be able to flatten an edge or a face. I don't have a powered jointer or planer and it'll probably be a while before I get one.
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May 24, 2020 06:54
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Leperflesh posted:I would say I generally like your plan, except for how both planes are low-angle. Not that that's definitely bad; but I have about five functional planes*, none of which is a low-angle plane, and the only one I want right now is the low-angle block plane (for dealing with swirly-grained stuff and the end grain on small planks and boards a little easier). I might buy the block plane first, since I know I've got uses for it, get to know it, get a good sense of sharpening it, then figure out what else I want. I'd be buying from different sites so it's not like I'm saving the shipping buying all at once. It's just tempting to dive in with both feet!
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May 24, 2020 07:47
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JEEVES420 posted:If your stack is moving when you tighten the nut you don't have them in the correct placement. The teeth should all overlap resting behind each other, if you spin the right blade toward you with your hand it should lock the stack. This could explain why you didn't get clean cuts with it Like the carbide tooth of one blade touching the tooth of the next? I thought that was exactly what I was trying to avoid. I've been setting them up so the teeth align with the gullet of the previous blade.
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May 24, 2020 18:28
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Just got a new Stanley Bailey low-angle block plane and I'm trying to set it up. The iron wasn't aligned laterally, so I tried to fix that -- turns out the top of the base isn't flat at the mouth, like it's ~.5 mm thicker on one side than the other: Without iron:  With iron:  Should I just return it? I don't see how I could get this aligned flat without grinding out the base, which I don't want to do
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Jun 1, 2020 17:52
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His Divine Shadow posted:Your mistake was buying a new Stanley. They're just badly designed anchors. This is the thing, the reviews I read of the new sweetheart and Bailey line suggested that they were Pretty Good for mid/entry level, respectively. This is like, egregiously bad though, right? I'm not making up that this is a pile of iron that's literally unusable unless you're willing to file cast iron down to appropriate tolerances?
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Jun 2, 2020 09:04
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First Time Caller posted:I've bought $1000 of tools to start making furniture for my new house in the basement. I've done a bookcase, planters, and floatings shelves so far with great results, just by watching youtube videos from Woodshop Diaries and Mere Mortals. As I think about working on my next few projects, I find myself wanting to learn to work at a higher quality than most of these Youtube channels instruct at, rather than just pocket hole lovely plywood together and caulk huge gaps from untuned saws/unsquared boxes, and sand stain poly to finish. If you don't mind the cost (~$150), The Weekend Woodworker is a great course. It might start at a bit of a lower level than where you're at, but it definitely helps with thinking about ways to plan out your work to fix little inconsistencies like you're talking about.
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Jun 5, 2020 22:48
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HolHorsejob posted:Was surprised to discover this the first time I assembled a drill press. Once I discovered this, I made drat sure all my heavy cuts were perfectly vertical. What about those sanding drums that vaguely imitate an oscillating spindle sander?
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Jun 10, 2020 03:12
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Is red oak acceptable for a salt cellar? I know it's too open-grained for something like a cutting board, but if it's just holding salt and is sealed with lacquer/poly, would that work? Mostly asking because my plan is to make a box-jointed box out of thin stock, and without a bandsaw capable of resawing, a thickness planer, or confidence to resaw on a table saw, I'm pretty limited in what I can easily get in 1/4" or 1/2".
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Jun 19, 2020 16:01
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The junk collector posted:It does bring up the question, oil or paste wax for best Tortoise shell shine? Turtle wax, obviously.
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Jun 26, 2020 17:42
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Bondematt posted:No, but the usual slow approach would be to do it in pieces. Then glue those blocks together for the top. So instead of doing all the boards at once, you're only gluing and clamping 1/4-1/3 of the total. Titebond Extend has a longer open time, but I agree -- glue it up in pieces if you're concerned about it.
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Jul 5, 2020 19:17
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Jaded Burnout posted:Is it safe to cut strips off a wide board by setting the fence to the offcut width and repeatedly feeding the board through? It feels safer to do it the other way but then you're constantly adjusting the fence. You mean you want, say, a bunch of 2" strips, so you set the fence to 2" and repeatedly move the board to the fence? That's fine.
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Jul 7, 2020 18:39
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I'm finishing a small project (a simple plant stand out of radiata pine) with BLO that I'm planning to shellac and then put paste wax over. Mostly I'm just doing this to get some practice with this method. Should I be doing multiple coats of oil? Multiple coats of shellac? Sanding in between?
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Jul 7, 2020 18:59
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Trillian posted:I'd like to set up a shop area in my basement, but what I am reading about dust collection is making me wonder if it's a bad idea. I am in the "I bought a power tool and would like to learn how to use it" category of hobbyist, so I don't know how much woodworking I will actually end up doing. I was going to take some classes but then coronavirus happened. A lot of what I see when googling dust collection is way over my head and out of my price range. But just running the shopvac in my poorly ventilated basement seems like it might be a bad plan even for occasional work. Would anyone have some advice or resources aimed at someone like me? I use a shopvac in my basement. Keep the shop away from your furnace, use a cyclone (the home depot Dustopper works fine and is cheap) and actually hook it up to every tool. This is annoying because literally every tool has slightly different fittings, but it's worth it. I do big sanding jobs outside if I can, but otherwise everything is fine.
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Jul 9, 2020 20:45
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I got a new Grizzly #4 plane, because I saw some reviews that said it was actually really solid for very cheap. Today I flattened the sole (honestly didn't take much, it was pretty flat out of box), lapped the back of the iron, sharpened the iron to a 25 degree primary bevel and put a 30 degree microbevel on it. I haven't done anything with the chipbreaker other than set it about 1/32" back from the edge of the iron. This is my first bevel-down plane, so I've never dealt with a chipbreaker before. The iron itself is sharp enough to shave my arm, but I can't get a shaving from the plane. I'll back off the depth adjuster until there's no contact, then inch it forward a 1/4 turn until it starts making contact. Even on the first setting with contact, it's basically just scraping the surface and making tiny chips/dust that clog the mouth. edit: didn't ask a question Do I need to flatten/adjust the chipbreaker in some way so it actually makes a shaving, or is there a problem somewhere else?
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Jul 18, 2020 19:12
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anatomi posted:If the breaker edge is flush against the iron, there's no need to flatten it. If you're dealing with something prone to tear-out you could try 1/64. I'm just testing the setup so I'm just planing the edge of a pretty straight piece of radiata pine. My block plane has no trouble getting a perfectly smooth surface on it. Chipbreaker bevel set a little less than 1/32":  From the side, it does look like there's a gap, which is probably what's causing the clogging. 
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Jul 18, 2020 20:09
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My favorite character in Twin Peaks was the Branch Lady
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Aug 7, 2020 17:24
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Any recommendations for dado sets? I have the lovely Avanti one and it doesn't cut flat bottoms at all. I'm probably not going to go for Forrest or Ridge Carbide, but I'm willing to spend $100-175 ish probably. Unless there's some reason I can't think of why I would really need an 8" dado set, 6" would probably be fine. I've never cut a dado more than ~3/4" deep before. Also, are magnetic shims worth it?
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Sep 9, 2020 01:37
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