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Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




ColdPie posted:

If you're in the Twin Cities area, I've chatted with the guys at Wood from the Hood and they seem open to doing small run custom orders from the logs they have on hand. I haven't tried doing an order from them myself, though, so I can't vouch for it personally.

I'm closer to Rochester and have a lot of anxiety driving in traffic, so I stay far away from the twin cities. The prices I got were from Root River Hardwoods in Preston down near the Iowa border. Vetch hardwoods on the outskirts of Rochester has been my go-to in the past, but they don't let you pick through the piles unless it is the figured stuff they pull out and set aside.


Leperflesh posted:

2 inches thick is too thick for a dining table IMO. Figure 40x80x1 and cut your wood cost in half. You could get S2S if you don't want to plane/sand/finish the top and bottom, doing the edge jointing is plenty of work, but if you go roughsawn you might cut a few more bucks at the cost of labor.

If you want a thick "look" to the top, do a thick trim around the edges.

I like the idea of 1" with 1.75" edging, but I believe that would involve breadboard edging on the ends. I guess that's something I'd need to learn how to do. I'm okay with working with rough sawn lumber. I have a table saw, a planer, and a variety of power sanders and handplanes. The one "essential" tool I'm currently missing is a jointer. I ordered the 8" spiral cut jointer from Grizzly a few months ago and and just sitting on the waiting list for them to get back in stock.

I'm just kicking around ideas at this point. I do have quite a bit of 4/4 curly maple. If I were to resaw that and plane it down to 1/8", could I get away with gluing it down to a substrate of MDF for the center and using 6/4 cherry for the edges? I don't know if the wood movement of the cherry on top of the MDF would be a ticking time bomb. If so, what about making the substrate out of something cheap like poplar or red oak?

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Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

The easy way to do this is use 4/4 stock, make the tabletop 4" wider than needed and 6" longer. Rip 2" off each edge, flip it over and glue it to the bottom of the table top. Do the same thing on the end. Now your table looks thick, you don't have wood movement problems from gluing crossgrain, your table doesn't weigh a million pounds, and you aren't fighting veneer bubble for the rest of forever. I've done it half a dozen times and never had any problems.

That sounds like a good solution. A project as large as this is new territory for me, so I appreciate all the help I can get. Thanks!

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




LightRailTycoon posted:

That is max output from a 15amp/120v outlet.


deimos posted:

Not really, should be able to hit 2HP.

I'm looking at getting a new shop vac and this one by Dewalt says it is 600W with 4HP peak. Google converter tells me that 600W is 0.8HP and 4HP is almost 3000 watts which is 25A at 120V. That seems like quite a huge discrepancy. Anybody know if they are somehow bullshitting their numbers?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B094N9J462/?th=1

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




Stultus Maximus posted:

Peak HP are bullshit numbers for every power tool manufacturer. It's assuming unlimited amps and gives the actual maximum the motor is capable of before burning out.

If it is drawing 600W (.8HP) at 120V, are they running it at 600V to get that 4HP?

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




Meow Meow Meow posted:

Does liquid hide glue work equally well for an instrument? It would be a bit easier to use as there is no need for a glue pot or brush...and the working time is longer as well.

I just finished a tool chest project, do you think it's a bit much for the shop? It's cherry with pepperwood burl on the drawer fronts.



That is beautiful and amazing work! I know some people think that shops should be purely utilitarian, but I don't see anything at all wrong with making shop items functional as well as beautiful.

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




deimos posted:

I just realized this mini conference was partially set up by Scott Landis.

This guy:


If you happen to run into him, please let him know that Skunkduster from the internet says that "The Workbench Book" is probably my all time favorite book. Very informative, interesting, well researched, and well written.

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




I've never used a tusk tenon (had to look it up) so this might be a dumb question, but doesn't that stickout of the tenon create a knee/thigh/shin banging hazard?

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




SgtScruffy posted:

Thank you both! Good to know there's some things I can do to make it a bit more sturdy, and that the first response isn't "GAH"

I've watched a couple of live edge videos and I seem to recall they went over the live edges with a wire brush/wheel after removing the bulk of the bark to clean them up. I think I have covid so maybe that was just a fever dream I had.

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




Toast posted:

My cousin is asking me if there's anything she can do about the particularly noticeable fading on her teak dining room table (it's in quite a sunny room)

If you hadn't said anything, I would have just assumed it was a nice looking table made of two contrasting types of wood.

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




Sockington posted:

I haven’t posted in a bit but have made a few odds and ends for folks.




Cant wait to see the walnut pickup selector switch you're going to make!

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




Stultus Maximus posted:

Looking at the pictures, Lee Valley's look pointier than the Home Depot pyramids I use.

If you have a 3D printer, there are plans for painters pyramids that have ball top on them. I printed a bunch and tried to use them to paint 1x4 and 1x6 trim for my garage, but the boards were too narrow and kept falling off. The pyramids held up just fine (printed in PLA+), but I think are more suited for wider pieces.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4777978

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




How do people keep that Festool track saw track from sliding around? Does it have some sort of grippy rubber backing? I've never seen one in person and when I watch people use them in videos, it looks like they never clamp it down.

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




Sockser posted:

the front 1" of it wiggles around by 2mm

Spoken like a true American :911:

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




PokeJoe posted:

I'm gonna vote....dowels

I'm betting screws. Screws that are 40" long.

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




I see a lot of the woodworking channels using monocoat rubio as the end all for wood finish. Is that all youtube hype, or is it like Festool where it is good, but you are going to pay a lot for it?

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




CommonShore posted:

looks like a cottonwood/poplar variety. If I saw that wood outside my house, I'd have a very specific guess but I don't know where you are.

As a combo woodworker/garden guy, I'd say that looks fine for hugulculture planting - maybe even too nice.

Based on the color, bark, and how stringy it is, I think you are spot on with your poplar guess. Garbage wood.

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Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




Not exactly fine woodworking here, but I'm planning on getting a picnic table frame and building it with 2x10 construction grade pine. I have some Valspar Integrity exterior grade latex "paint and primer". I used it on my front door last year and it has held up fine. Would it be okay to just slap a couple coats on a picnic table and call it done?

Also, I'm planning on routing 1/2" roundovers on the seats and outer edges of the table top. What spacing is recommended between the three boards that will make up the table top and should I go with 1/8 or 1/4 roundovers for the gaps?

Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 23:54 on May 13, 2024

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