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How do you guys store your film? Would just putting it into a Rubbermaid container and then putting it in a fridge be ok or should I also load up on dessicant?
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Aug 11, 2014 23:09
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Is it okay to store in the fridge or should I keep it in he freezer? My fridge goes down to about 6-7c, freezer below 0c.
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Aug 12, 2014 00:34
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Here's what I rigged up to dslr scan my photos not shown: the desk lamp i set up after would recommend shooting tethered, and using more lighting.
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Aug 14, 2014 21:07
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BANME.sh posted:My brother is in NYC so I had him pick me up some Portra 400 at B&H so that I don't have to deal with Have you considered buying from freestyle? Even after shipping and customs, it's cheaper than local. I did that recently for 22 rolls of film (portra, ektar, velvia, provia, tmax, arista, etc) and after shipping and taxes (which came out to about $50), it still worked out to about $7.50 per roll. Locally it's about $9 for a roll of portra/ektar and $13 for a roll of velvia/provia
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Sep 29, 2014 00:52
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shipping costs. And buying a 35mm 5-pack of the stuff costs $79 locally. Pretty excited about it.
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Should just rename this thread The Portra 400 Thread
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Oct 24, 2014 21:18
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I like ektar, the colors are great, but you have to get your exposure perfect or it will look like poo poo.
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Nov 25, 2014 04:15
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BANME.sh posted:Gotcha, so only real pros use ektar right? The people who use ektar don't post here 
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Nov 25, 2014 05:58
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Good luck with that. Here's how you process your kodachrome: quote:Backing removal
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Dec 5, 2014 04:13
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Can't be as miserable as foma. At least tri-x is not the cheapest thinnest plastic film in the world.
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Jan 18, 2015 03:16
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For the Pentax, Does the meter stay on the entire time or does it shut off after a few seconds? Is the little red light always on? What is it doing or not doing? Is the mirror and shutter just not retracting all the way?
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Feb 21, 2015 22:37
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Develop one roll at box speed, see how it is before proceeding with the other two.
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Mar 22, 2015 08:48
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Looks like HP5 is $65 for a 100 foot roll, and it looks like the average roll of 36 has about 65" of film (including the leader and the end), so 18 rolls and a bit left over for $65 = $3.61 per roll plus your bulk loader and your canisters. Buying it is $5.59 per roll of 36. You're saving about $2 per roll. TriX is $127.79 for 100 feet, using the same calculations as above, that's $6.92 per roll, but you could buy it for $5.03 per roll. You're losing money. TMAX is $82.79 for 100 feet, which works out to $4.59 per roll, versus $5.39 per roll to purchase. Your savings are $0.80 per roll. All prices from Freestyle.
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Apr 10, 2015 02:45
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bulk load 220 then
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Apr 11, 2015 01:40
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Yup, the backing pressure plate slides from 120 to 220, and there's also that screw on the side that you rotate from 120 to 220. The back will also say 220 once you slide the pressure plate over.
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Apr 11, 2015 06:03
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I just ran some ektar through colorperfect and the results are   DSC_9266-Edit by rchan02, on Flickr
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Apr 17, 2015 03:52
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Not sure what I'm really doing wrong here since I don't know poo poo and I just started developing b&w - Black and white film; ilford hp5 400 - Rodinal 1:100 (5ml + 500ml water), 1 hour (start, agitation, 30 minutes, agitation, 30 minutes, drain) - stop rinse, like 3-5 minutes or whatever - Ilford rapid fixer, mixed according to bottle directions, 5 minutes Then, formulary hypoclear mixed 1:9 (so in my case, 55ml + 500ml water), soak it for a few minutes, then rinse it off and hang it up to dry Still getting lots and lots of spots, build up, residue, etc. Everything is just dandy until that point, too. Where am I going wrong? Should I squeegee the water off after hanging up? Too much hypoclear? Stand developing for bad people? Wild EEPROM fucked around with this message at 08:45 on Jun 22, 2015 |
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Jun 22, 2015 08:25
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Provia Velvia Agfa Precisa Rollei Digibase Agfa Scala, if you want black and white slides. Provia 400 is getting discontinued soon too, so stock up on that. Expired film that is stored properly should be good too, as long as it's not kodachrome, since you can't process that anymore. Buy some Astia. I'm thinking of selling off some of my Astia, maybe.
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Jul 25, 2015 07:15
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I do 1:100 rodinal:water, agitate for the first 30 seconds, wait 30 minutes, agitate 5x, then dump it out after an hour, rinse with water, ilford rapid fixer, then hypoclear, then rinse, hang, and then i throw it all away because my pictures are bad and i haven't looked at anything i've done in months
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Aug 17, 2015 05:10
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If not trix, then hp5. I've had some pretty decent results with kentmere as well, and it's cheaper. A fair bit grainier, but also a lot cheaper.
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Sep 14, 2015 03:07
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timrenzi574 posted:That's exactly the kind of lens that is the worst for this (fast double gauss 50's) - not all the light focuses at the same place when wide open, which is what gives it that dreamy hazy low contrast look. Stopping down corrects those SA's, which moves the plane of focus a bit. If you stop down a bunch (f/4, f/5.6, etc) the DOF becomes large enough to overcome the shift, same as if you're shooting at a distance. But close up and only stopping down a little, it can throw you entirely out of the (very thin) DOF. So would it be best to shoot these in dof preview ?
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Sep 21, 2015 20:16
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Having some weird problems and I have no idea what I'm doing (both in general and wrong) Most recent roll has about the lower 1/4 significantly lighter than the top 3/4.  (yes, they are supposed to be that underexposed) With previous rolls (TriX, hp5) I'm getting some weird spots. Usually white, and usually on the bottom of the film as well. 120 film Rodinal 1:100 Ilford rapidfixer formulary hypo clear patterson system 4 (2x 135 or 1x 120) It's probabl something incredibly minor that I didn't think of, like the reel has to be higher up on the pole or lower on the pole or upside down or something.
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Nov 25, 2015 06:10
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MrBlandAverage posted:What volume of chemistry are you using? Spots sounds like foam and lighter bottom 1/4 sounds like underdevelopment. Both can be caused by not using enough liquid. 500+5ml of developer quote:How do you agitate? Turning the can, shaking the can, or spinning the pole? rotate the tank while also rotating it end-on-end. Gently, about 15 times at the beginning, and a few taps to dislodge any bubbles. About the same at 30 minutes
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Nov 25, 2015 08:49
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Could also be ultramax.
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Jan 3, 2016 05:57
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Ettr
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Feb 5, 2016 22:26
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You would only need 5 system4 patterson tanks to do that all at once, if you stand developed.
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Mar 1, 2016 06:45
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I skip the stop bath step and just rinse for a couple minutes, and I haven't had any problems with that. The problem I have is using photoflo at the end, since it just leaves dried residue bits unless I also rinse for a ridiculously long time to get rid of it :\ Wild EEPROM fucked around with this message at 03:13 on Apr 3, 2016 |
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Apr 3, 2016 02:04
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Pham Nuwen posted:I'm just reading this wrong, you still use fixer, right? I meant stop bath, not fixer
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Apr 3, 2016 03:14
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Unless it's an M7
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Apr 14, 2016 08:21
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I like the Nikon f3. They are the best.
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Apr 23, 2016 02:47
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Expired film? Exposed for the wrong part of the scene ? Wrong settings on the camera?
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May 6, 2016 03:05
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check out ebay japan sellers, it was a lot cheaper there than it was from any source here. I bought 3 rolls for under 30 dollars shipped
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May 11, 2016 03:22
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Credit k-rock because you want to support your growing family
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May 18, 2016 22:02
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You can still fire the shutter with the back open. And see the film advancing mechanism. Does it look ok on all speeds? I'd also suggest picking up some b&w film and developing yourself, and wasting a few rolls to test it out. Film dev is super cool. The FA is also super cool.
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Jun 4, 2016 18:40
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Would it show up if you used the slow motion mode on an iPhone with a strong light pointing through the front?
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Jun 7, 2016 03:58
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Depends if you got the gallon mix. If so, just dilute it to 3.8, then when you use it you re-dilute to 1:1 or 1:3 or whatever.
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Jun 14, 2016 22:14
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No, you look on the massive dev chart for the new dev time. Eg tri X is about 9:45 at iso 400, and about 13:15 at iso1600
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Jun 17, 2016 17:02
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You just need a bottle opener to pop open the can, and then you toss the can aside and never deal with it again. I usually don't even trim off the leader and roll that poo poo right in. I also use D76 and Tri-X so who even knows.
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Jun 25, 2016 19:21
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Also some brands are easier to wind than others. Namely, foma is rear end
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Jun 25, 2016 23:40
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ansel autisms posted:What do you dislike about Foma? I find it pretty pleasant, just a bit easy to scratch. Loading the film onto a spool. The results are just fine, it's just much more of a pain to handle than, say, HP5.
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Jun 26, 2016 04:54
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SMERSH Mouth posted:Why does it seem like everyone likes to recommend the epson v-series scanners? I bought one and it's pretty poo poo. (It's was 550, but still, I don't think there's that much difference?) Similar experience for me. It's great that I can scan 12 frames at once, but the quality just isn't there. It probably has to do with those film holders and film flatness. Been having better results with my dslr and a macro lens.
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Jul 5, 2016 01:55
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