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Cool, I'm looking at glass inserts for the 35mm holders to keep the film flat, as it did have an upwards bow. I'll wait for them to arrive and rescan, see what improvement I can get. I noticed on my 120 scans they were very soft until I fashioned a bit of card to hold them flat, I've got an entire new adjustable film holder on the way for that though that should make a vast improvement. edit: did a test and turned the film over so it was bowing downward instead, the result is a lot sharper, still can't colour correct my way out of a cardboard box with this E100. Looking forward to these glass inserts appearing now. Megabound fucked around with this message at 09:20 on Apr 5, 2019 |
# ¿ Apr 5, 2019 08:15 |
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# ¿ May 12, 2024 03:42 |
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To my eyes it looks like you've got too much Magenta in the image. To get rid of that you need to add green. You've got 2 colour models, RGB and CMY. To get rid of Cyan, add Red, Magenta add Green and Yellow add Blue.
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# ¿ May 14, 2019 04:32 |
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Did my first home development on the weekend. TMax 400 in Ilfosol 3. Hanging up the developed negs and seeing the images was so cool and exciting. [
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# ¿ Jun 10, 2019 11:28 |
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Martytoof posted:Likely, but I can’t imagine a situation where I’d need instant access to negatives that isn’t followed by instant need of a scanner or enlarger. I suppose it’s cool to be able to see results instantly but without additional equipment I can’t imagine it’s useful at all. The only "good" reason I can think of is if you're about to go through some high power x-ray. President Beep posted:Doesn’t that system cost way more though? Change back and a patterson tank are like $65 or something. I just spent $200 AUD on all the chems (Dev, stop, fix, wet) I needed, 2 reel tank, bag, graduated cylinder, film clips and thermometer, so yes. Speaking of chems, I know you can reuse fixer but can you reuse stop? I'm getting conflicting reports.
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# ¿ Jun 11, 2019 03:30 |
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Helen Highwater posted:Also film that's still in the canister/on the spindle is 100% more portable and a billion percent less likely to get damaged than naked strips of developed negatives. New from LAB-BOX, the film canister reloader! Only $199.99 for an easy, convenient, "portable" way to load your developed film back into the canisters for portability.
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# ¿ Jun 11, 2019 08:30 |
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Cross processed some XP2 in Ilfosol 3. 8 min dev.
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# ¿ Jun 16, 2019 12:59 |
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Sauer posted:I've developed color negative in Rodinal a few times and you get an incredibly dense negative with the orange mask coming out dark brown. Does the same thing happen with XP2? Nothing strange, XP2 always had a purple tint to it.
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# ¿ Jun 16, 2019 21:01 |
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I had this roll of film that came out of a point and shoot that broke down half-way through the roll, then I thought I fixed it and it broke down 5 or so shots in. So when I was after some film I didn't really care about to test out a new X700 body I went straight to it. These two that came out of that hot mess I kinda like. and as a bonus the new body is behaving itself well.
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# ¿ Jul 1, 2019 10:48 |
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CodfishCartographer posted:Since we're on the topic of scanning, any recommendations for film holders to use with the v550? I shoot both 120 and 35mm and am real tired of the crappy ones that come with it. For 120 I use this: http://www.betterscanning.com/scanning/models/v500.html And I bought some glass inserts from eBay for the 35mm holder. Both have been a worthwhile upgrade, but I wish I got my 35mm glass inserts from Better Scanning as thier quality was way better.
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# ¿ Aug 4, 2019 22:44 |
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I'm a fan of Superia 400 if you don't want to spend Portra money.
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# ¿ Sep 20, 2019 04:06 |
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Or, if you care about metering over looking like you shoot film don't buy a selenium based metre.
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# ¿ Sep 21, 2019 05:09 |
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Cross processed some 30 year expired Agfa Vario-XL becuase I've got a lot of it. Turned out like this: Not a process I'm going to repeat.
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# ¿ Oct 5, 2019 07:53 |
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I like almost all Fuji emulsions from their cheap C200 to their pro 160NS and 400H. IMO Fujis cheap stuff is way nicer than Kodak's cheap stuff.
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# ¿ Oct 26, 2019 00:44 |
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President Beep posted:In all seriousness, as someone who isn’t very experienced and shares your general live-and-let-live take, I can say that there are some apparent film veterans here that dislike this kind of dabbling. It's not dabbling people are against, it's posting of uninspired photos. We all choose different films for their different qualities and employ them in our photography because we're after their aesthetic. You can use lomo purple or 30 year expired afga surveillance film to good effect, but if you're leaning on "Hey, look at this crazy film" instead of your subject and composition you're just moving horrible Instagram filters from post-processing to pre-processing and spending good money for the privilege.
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# ¿ Nov 9, 2019 07:05 |
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ASSTASTIC posted:This kind of attitude is what pushes people away from a medium becuase it's pompous as gently caress. I'd say the same thing about the photo if it was digital. No one needs your take on Cinestill 800. I can type that into Google and see page after page of equally bad photos as the ones you posted.
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# ¿ Nov 9, 2019 07:29 |
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President Beep posted:It goes way beyond the merit of any images posted though. I’ve shared stuff here and no one’s said anything off putting about them. Where I tend to run afoul of the unspoken orthodoxy is with regards to different ways of processing film, scanning techniques, etc. No one cares what scanner, film or developer you use. If you ask for an opinion on these things you will get one, but no one here is looking at the EXIF data on your photos in order to scoff at you for using a V600 to scan 35mm. People will judge photos posted on their merits. Some people will like them, some people won't.
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# ¿ Nov 9, 2019 09:33 |
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Fujis Across II will be out in Japan by then so you'll have to pick some of that. Otherwise there's no real benifit to buying while there other than it might be easier to find Fuji.
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# ¿ Nov 19, 2019 21:41 |
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All of Fuji's cheap films poo poo all over Kodak's.
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# ¿ Nov 27, 2019 03:43 |
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# ¿ Dec 8, 2019 11:09 |
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Paul MaudDib posted:Also, let me throw out that if you're getting into medium format you probably want to buy a V700 or whatever the current iteration is. The V500/V600 is alright for 6x6, you can do 2 frames at a time which is semi-decent, but 6x7 and above become loving painful as you have to move the film for every single exposure. While the V700 is the right way to go for quality the V600 can do 4 6x6 or 2 6x9 at once , not 2 and 1, and if you can get one for cheap go for it. I paid like $100 for mine and have been pretty happy with it.
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# ¿ Dec 10, 2019 22:39 |
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Is Auto-focus a must? As far as AF goes I've only used the Minolta Dynax 7000i and while it performed well enough it was bulky and not fun to carry around. I assume the a9 and a7 are better performers all around but if you're taking the time to shoot film why not got manual focus? The Minolta x570 is a joy to use, light, super bright viewfinder and had all the creature comforts you need, as well as cheap glass.
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# ¿ Dec 17, 2019 05:54 |
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I own both a 700 and 570. The 570, while missing program, still has aperture priority and it shows both your selected and metered speed in manual while the 700 only shows selected. The 700 only has iso selection to 1600 instead of the 570s 3200 too. The only other thing it's missing is exposure compensation but just chuck it into manual for that.
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# ¿ Dec 17, 2019 07:11 |
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My current camera savings account is for a GF670. I've been enamoured with the Fuji rangefinders and my X570 dying was the final push I needed to seriously start putting away for one.
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# ¿ Feb 15, 2020 06:23 |
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# ¿ Feb 15, 2020 22:15 |
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I often struggle a bit loading 120 on to plastic patterson spools. Are the Arista Premium spools or the stainless steel ones a good upgrade over the standard patterson fair?
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# ¿ Mar 2, 2020 03:05 |
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Yeah, I think my issue is a wet reel, once it gets started it's a bit sticky and likes to pop out of the starting tabs. It either goes smoothly or I become a sweaty annoyed mess with a cat loudly screaming at me
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# ¿ Mar 2, 2020 04:09 |
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I use a tetnal C41 kit and it's really easy, only a 3 step process, but I do use my sous vide for temperature. Really C41 is a recipie to follow and so long as you can hit the right times and temperatures you'll have a good time.
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# ¿ Mar 21, 2020 08:40 |
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I love this. Enjoying those lines.
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# ¿ Apr 1, 2020 11:35 |
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Hey guys. I'm looking at getting an enlarger and have found a Durst M700 with a CLS 70 colour condenser head for cheap with a modular negative carrier that does up to 6x9, it's got Setbox 66 condenser in and I've asked after the lens. Only issue is I have no idea what most of those words mean. Would this be suitable for black and white with that colour head, and would I need to change anything about the setup to do 6x9, what else should I be on the lookout for? Sorry about the vagueness as I don't know what I don't know about enlargers.
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# ¿ Apr 21, 2020 22:37 |
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Ethics_Gradient posted:
Thanks for all the info. He's listing it as complete and 100% working ready to enlarge. Comes with 3 lenses and I'll be looking to enlarge everything from 35mm to 6x9. I'll be checking it out this afternoon and will report back.
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# ¿ Apr 22, 2020 04:13 |
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Well I own an enlarger now Needs a clean but is working, has a e: Not a condenser, but a mixing box, for use with the colour head. With that head it doesn't use a condenser at all. Megabound fucked around with this message at 10:18 on Apr 22, 2020 |
# ¿ Apr 22, 2020 09:57 |
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Wild EEPROM posted:the most important setting is under color management, make sure to set it as the actual epson color management and not the silverfast one, which does all kinds of weird poo poo Dudeabides posted:I was looking for where to change this, but it looks like things are fixed in place because of N E G A F I X Goddamn. So I've been scanning with Negafix turned on but as a 48bit raw, which still outputs a negative I take to photoshop and invert, then fight with to get the colours correct. I did a test scan after using the correct profile and the difference i night and day, provides a much easier file to work with.
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# ¿ Apr 22, 2020 21:47 |
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I own a 645 for travel and is the only reason I'd get one. 16 frames and portability lend itself to coming overseas, but the size isn't a drastic departure from 35mm, still better tho. I'd go for a 6x7 if you want rectangular or 6x6 if you're interested in sqaure.
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# ¿ Apr 28, 2020 08:15 |
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Paper question, found someone selling near 200 sheets of photo paper (unopened Ilford Ilfospeed Silk, and Kodabromode) bought in 1980. Any chance this is still worth enlarging on? He's asking $15.
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# ¿ May 3, 2020 07:57 |
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Looks like my Kiev that suffered mirror bounce. It would be up to 3 lines, not all the time and no issue with longer exposures.
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# ¿ Jul 4, 2020 09:32 |
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President Beep posted:So, I’ve learned first hand what a piece of junk the 120 holder that comes with the V600 is. Anyone try the Better Scanning replacement dealio? I’m willing to shell out if it’ll improve the workflow. I use a better scanning holder and really like it. Keeping another surface clean and dust free is a small price to pay for flat, in focus negs.
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# ¿ Jul 4, 2020 22:56 |
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I moved to Rodinal and HC110 from Ilfosol 3, mostly becuase of shelf life but also thanks to this real nice comparison Andrew & Denae did on Youtube: All these are linked to big images.
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# ¿ Jul 6, 2020 02:48 |
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But also, HC-110 is good too. I keep Rodinal on hand for anything 100 iso or lower and HC-110 for over that. Rodinal gives apparent sharpness as it doesn't destroy crystal structure but can highlight grain, whearas HC-110 will soften hard edges and keep granier films looking a bit smoother. It also has a shelf life of forever.
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# ¿ Aug 17, 2020 07:13 |
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Photo-flo is done after final rinse, 1:200 and I just let it sit for 30sec.
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# ¿ Sep 1, 2020 21:32 |
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# ¿ May 12, 2024 03:42 |
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I recently started a darkroom thread that's gotten no posts but: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3938540 Enlarger lenses are cheap and plentiful so I wouldn't worry about those. The hardest parts to source would be the enlarger specific hardware, which you can find part numbers for here. You're also going to need to know what head is on it so you can get the right diffusors/condensers for the the lenses you'll be using. From that page there it looks like the heads will be condenser types, condensers will give more apparent sharpness by giving a higher base level of contrast but as the light is highly collimated you'll have to be more careful with dust and spotting. Personally I'd go for an enlarger with a colour diffusor style head so you can forgo the Ilford multigrade filters and have less apparent dust. Another option of machine that may or may not be common around where you are would be a Durst M700/M800, which only do up to 6x9. The mixing boxes only came in 6x6 or 6x9 so they're easier to find for those formats and the negative carrier has blades like an easel so you don't need to worry about multiple masks or multiple carriers when changing format.
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# ¿ Sep 2, 2020 00:30 |