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hi liter posted:I started shooting film earlier this year, finally got around to scanning negatives and processing them in Photoshop. I know that I have a ton to learn about handling film, but so far I'm enjoying the results. These scans are horrible. Colours are off, dust is all over the place, over sharpened.
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Nov 7, 2016 18:45
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I could pick it up, but then again what would I do with it
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Dec 18, 2016 04:14
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Can I use it as a minifridge? a 500lb minifridge :/ bobmarleysghost fucked around with this message at 04:17 on Dec 18, 2016 |
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Dec 18, 2016 04:14
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Arcella posted:Awesome, thanks for the writeup. I went ahead and got an air-zinc battery from Amazon, which was like $10, so we'll see how long that lasts. Luckily it should be here on Friday, and I'll have a chance to run a roll or two through it this weekend. Way over sharpened. Tone it down to where you don't get halos.
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Nov 21, 2017 01:05
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The other thing is, what are your expectations of the results? Have you been seeing some good film shots on IG and thought to yourself "Hey I wanna do that"? Cause those good film shots were 100% not straight out of the camera. Get ready for learning how to properly digitially process film in photoshop. There is a learning curve there. You may be unpleasantly surprised at what you see from your first rolls. I say buy a cheap simple 35mm camera ($100 max) and buy some film and then go get it developed at the closest lab. The total cost might be max $200 (cam + film + dev + scan cause you probably dont have a scanner yet). At the lab, ask for process only and you scan the film yourself (scanning at the lab can be expensive).
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Sep 11, 2018 13:49
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Blackhawk posted:Lmao: You laugh but someone buy those.
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Feb 10, 2019 17:25
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Learn how your meter works, buy portra, look at good photography, and go shooting. Out of your 36 shots you may get one really good one (even if it's a fluke), and you don't want it to be on poo poo film.
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Sep 20, 2019 19:49
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Get fomapam
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Oct 26, 2019 00:06
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But did not see those halos? Every frame instantly becomes bladerunnner dystopian neo tokyo. It's all keepers.
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Nov 12, 2019 02:06
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AfricanBootyShine posted:What's the best rangefinder I can get for <£150? It'd mainly be used as a walkaround camera and maaaaaybe the occasional candid portrait. Aperture priority would be great, but not absolutely necessary. Right now I'm looking at the Yashica Electro 35 GSN (which is cheap, but heavy) or the CC-- but are there any others I should be looking at in that price range? Look into the mid tier point and shoots, they may be what you're looking for.
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Dec 31, 2019 17:06
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Yea those are good. I've used the stylus (and the epic) as well as the nikon. Contax is good but it's pricey in my area.
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Jan 1, 2020 01:03
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The video has been lost to the ages unfortunately. The quick recap is: - scan as highest bit (48bit is good) positive - bring it into PS, invert it - open up Levels and for each channel bring in the black and the white points until they barely touch the graph. Hold down Alt while dragging to see how close you can get without clipping. - use a Curves layer to set the black/white/gray points. From there you need to finesse it, but the above should get you in the general area.
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Jan 26, 2020 15:44
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good stuff dude you're getting the hang of it
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Apr 11, 2020 23:12
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just get silver fast, it's the best in my experience with all 3. vuescan loves clipping the blue channel.
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Apr 20, 2020 16:38
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it comes with practice, but this might be of help until then https://dofsimulator.net/en/
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Jun 9, 2021 20:16
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You're not even seeing the rebate frame with the letters and numbers on it. Wouldn't that point to that part of the film being exposed outside of camera before development?
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Jun 24, 2021 05:48
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same energy 
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Jul 7, 2021 03:34
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it's a very well made camera that will last you forever. i've never CLA'd mine and while the focus ring feels muddy to focus the camera works fine without issues. that being said i haven't used in years because i prefer the look of 6x7. do you want a 6x6 camera or do you just think you want it?
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Jan 4, 2022 23:31
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who are the photographers included?
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May 1, 2022 03:20
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I use vuescan, in combination with NLP that I use to convert. NLP has a guide for how to set up vuescan in order to get files that work with it. That being said, silverfast is better than vuescan (NLP has guides on how to set that up too).
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May 23, 2022 16:41
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Reviving this thread from the dead, in case anyone wants to buy some expired film - https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3759085&pagenumber=53&perpage=40&userid=0#post526648042
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Sep 30, 2022 23:38
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Love to photograph the local nazi “cosplay” community, it’s just dudes in costume, totally kosher I swear, they’re not “real” nazis, they don’t even love hitler
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Dec 10, 2022 15:49
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lee friedlander
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Jan 23, 2023 03:41
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scanning 35mm on a flatbed gave me bad results. i use the plustek as well and it's been great, it's very easy to use.
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Mar 8, 2023 15:35
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The mju ii is a fine camera, but not worth more than $100, and even that is generous. I've had 3 in my life and sold them all after a year or two of use. The lens is sharp, but only in the center, which is fine for a p&s. The autofocus was very hit and miss. One of the 3 cams had its flash die, another developed issues with advancing the frame, and the third developed a light leak. They're prone to breaking.
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Mar 12, 2023 14:43
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Depending on where you live you could get more than 175eur, i sold mine last year for $400 cad, with a lightleak. E: oh you got it at the proper price, nice. Buy some film with the proceeds
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Mar 12, 2023 16:00
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Your film's got the pox
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Aug 21, 2023 01:16
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I, and a fair amount of people use NLP (negative lab pro). Absolutely worth the money. It's a Lightroom plugin. NLP can work with vuescan and on their website they tell you the settings to use for it in order to get it to work as it should with NLP
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Aug 26, 2023 16:34
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ah. well, check out the nlp vuescan settings anyway, could work, it would at least make your scans as raw as possible before you import into another application.
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Aug 27, 2023 03:39
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dupersaurus posted:Speaking of scanning how do y’all approach color correction of scans? Do you accept the scan as true to life or do a lot of lever fiddling? Keep yourself to edits that could be done in traditional printing? It seems like a lot of digital editing would defeat the purpose of shooting film but how do you know what accurate is. I scan as raw and use NLP for both colour and bw. I don't do any funny stuff like trying to adhere to traditional printing styles. I do whatever it take to get the result I want. Cloning healing spot colour correction casts etc, nothing is off limits. I would never consider getting a JPG straight out of a scanner
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Oct 29, 2023 00:42
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theHUNGERian posted:I am probably overthinking this, but what am I trading off if I adjust my development time so the density of the negative has a smaller dynamic range (for a fixed subject dynamic range)? So suppose I have a recipe where I develop for X time and get Zone 1 and Zone 8 densities of 0.1 and 2.0. If I were to reduce the develop time such that Zone 1 and Zone 8 have densities of 0.1 and 1.2, I think I would trade off film speed and tonal separation, but in return I would get less grainy highlights in my scans, right? Is there anything else I am missing? I don't do anything fancy with dev, so I can't answer to that, but I'm curious if you do a side by side example.
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Oct 29, 2023 00:45
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I have the tools at hand and I use them. I'm not a purist or a photojournalist that has to adhere to editing standards.
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Oct 29, 2023 00:48
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I use a v700 for 120 and a plustek 8200 for 35mm I use vuescan to scan as raw and NLP to process
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Nov 8, 2023 02:50
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Some people experience channel clipping with vuescan. Also the interface is better, and the makers aren't as big an rear end in a top hat as the vuescan maker. If you go with silverfast, do make sure to buy the version that can scan as raw. Not the HDR raw gimped version, but the full 48bit raw.
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Nov 9, 2023 01:53
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