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I don't know what that is, but I think I want a box now.
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# ¿ Jul 25, 2015 01:57 |
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# ¿ May 12, 2024 10:19 |
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You can always find a use for a vice.
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# ¿ Aug 3, 2015 18:49 |
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That's just a good excuse for a bigger and better workbench.
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# ¿ Aug 4, 2015 04:34 |
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I jumped on twitch to see what you were doing, but apparently you didn't leave it in for long, so I followed you. The small sledgehammer video was pretty cool, though from the angle of the camera it looked like you missed a fair bit.
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# ¿ Feb 13, 2017 06:44 |
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Only problem with that idea is, you wouldn't have uniform expansion.
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# ¿ Mar 5, 2017 02:00 |
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Tur bin. Tur bin. Tur bin.
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# ¿ Sep 5, 2017 04:20 |
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ThisoldTony has a couple videos on YouTube that goes over carbide and hss. On mobile otherwise I'd link.
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# ¿ Jul 13, 2018 01:27 |
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I'm not sure you even need a forge for 6 micromillimeter stock.
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# ¿ Sep 2, 2018 21:37 |
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Nah, my post was really referring to cakesmiths 6mmm typo, you just happened to post just before me.
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# ¿ Sep 2, 2018 22:39 |
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They were posted earlier in the thread, and then Alec Steele linked them on his most recent video, which has gotten him about 15k more subscribers in the past two days. Makes me wonder if Alec browses these forums on occasion.
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# ¿ Oct 25, 2018 12:45 |
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Ferremit posted:I loving hate you.... When i was doing core sampling and I could do the work with the drill rig it was fine- the rockmaster rigs have about 2 tonnes of lift capacity so that wasnt an issue, and if we couldnt pull a tube with the main lift rams you could use the massive rams on the stabiliser legs of the vehicle to pull em out cos that would get a 4 tonne landcruiser nearly half a meter off the ground. That sounds like pretty reasonably placed hate to me.
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# ¿ Jan 5, 2019 01:06 |
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They only thought if they could, but not if they should.
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# ¿ Dec 14, 2019 00:01 |
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captkirk posted:I realize this thread is more about "make a thing" and less about "restore an old thing" but my grandfather gave me a horse shoe that was made by his uncle who was a black smith. It's got a decent looking layer of rust on it but I'd like to do something to remove the rust, seal it against future rust and mount in on a plaque or something. It's a fairly thin shoe (it was made as a shoe for a race horse by my grandfather's telling) and I'm worried about getting too aggressive with it in terms of removing too much material. Personally take a wire cup in a drill to it first, before getting all chemical with it. You might like the look of it with the surface rust knocked off.
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# ¿ Dec 28, 2019 18:02 |
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You can heat it in a well ventilated area, or cut it to the lengths you need and soak it in vinegar for a half hour or so then wipe the zinc coating off. Im not sure how well that pipe will work as a hold down, especially long term.
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# ¿ Jun 23, 2020 17:38 |
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Masonry blade with an angle grinder or a tile saw are about the best options I can think of. The hack saw might work, but it's not something I'd personally want to do. As for the refractory questions I don't have any answers.
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# ¿ Jun 26, 2020 06:15 |
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I would pay a little bit of money to watch someone cut a hard firebrick with a butter knife. Now the soft firebrick sure, that you can cut with harsh words.
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# ¿ Jul 1, 2020 04:03 |
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I think the biggest thing would be make sure you can bolt it to a solid surface, since an aluminum frame will be quite a bit lighter than steel. I don't know that I'd be worried much about shavings of a grinder except for maybe around any adjustable sections, and everything should be going down or away anyways.
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# ¿ Aug 30, 2020 02:51 |
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A straight edge and a razor blade is how I've seen it done in the past.
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# ¿ Sep 1, 2020 16:56 |
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I would think that maybe a triangle top made out of angle iron, just large enough to hold the anvil and some angle iron legs bolted to it that you could fold around the top like a hinge would work. At least it's the first thing that comes to mind given the limits you listed. I've seen some flat-pack camp chairs in that style which is what gave me the idea. immoral_ fucked around with this message at 02:13 on Nov 15, 2020 |
# ¿ Nov 15, 2020 02:10 |
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While a welder would be best for the top plate, i think I'd try to use oversized bolts for the pivot/hinge with another bolt to use to lock it in place. It sounded more like you need a stable hard surface to hammer against more than something that could stand up to heavy blows though, so maybe I was mistaken there.
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# ¿ Nov 15, 2020 21:16 |
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Just make sure if you do that, that the body of the clamp can take the extra force. I've broken some just tightening them by hand.
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# ¿ Nov 22, 2020 18:52 |
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Thread favorite Clickspring also has a Sherline that he breaks out on occasion, he doesn't really get into the nitty-gritty of using one. But you can get an idea of the kinds of things you can use it for beyond handles.
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# ¿ Dec 2, 2020 01:30 |
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Ah, right, it's one of those "fucker that accepted the job" kinda things. Yeah, those suck.
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# ¿ Dec 4, 2020 06:28 |
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Check out some of the older This Old Tony videos as well.
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# ¿ Jan 15, 2021 23:48 |
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I own a red welder, and learned how to weld, for given values of "learned", on a blue welder. Practically speaking the only difference between the two is the fact that I could get the red one a bit cheaper than the blue one when I was in the market.
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# ¿ May 6, 2021 00:08 |
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If you are to venture to weld it yourself, be sure grind a V along the crack and fill it in with weld, it'll be much stronger than a surface weld. If you took it to someone that does know how to weld I would hope that they will do that themselves.
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# ¿ Jun 23, 2021 22:10 |
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Note to self: don't gently caress around with Ti.
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# ¿ Oct 7, 2021 14:01 |
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Apparently pyrite is also an option, though I don't know if the process is much different.
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# ¿ Dec 4, 2021 23:30 |
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Brushed mild steel has such a nice look to it, that said I'm not sure how well it removes millscale on its own.
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# ¿ Dec 31, 2021 04:46 |
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meowmeowmeowmeow posted:my filler hand doesnt catch on fire. Are you sure you're doing it right then?
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# ¿ Jan 28, 2022 18:07 |
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Ambassadorofsodomy posted:Thanks to all for the replies re:rust removal. You could soak it in wood for the memes. But really, having a good fitup and not leaving it in the elements will keep it just fine for as long as the handle lasts.
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# ¿ Jul 13, 2022 01:22 |
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Ziggy Smalls posted:Non ferrous metals can clog grinding tools but after my cat got stolen last october I found that the general suggestion is to add steel in strategic places so it takes significantly longer to cut out the cat. If you forget what cat is short for, which I totally didn't do, this becomes a very different message.
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# ¿ Aug 19, 2022 01:20 |
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Anodized penetrators had a good run.. But now it's time for pitching.
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# ¿ Dec 27, 2022 06:29 |
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That is the perfect job for a half-round bastard file, but most any will do the jump with varying degrees of effort.
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# ¿ Jan 23, 2023 22:03 |
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Does it have to be precise, nearly 7 inch stick out on a boring bar small enough to do 9mm internal, seems a bit much. Can you cast it, since you said aluminum would be the likely metal?
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# ¿ Feb 7, 2023 21:05 |
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Yooper posted:Press brake means that a mandrel presses the metal into a die, usually hydraulically but also servo controlled. Pan-Box-finger means it's being bent over the fingers / tool edge. I am a not retired sheet metal dude, and watching me work the break is so not amazing. That's why I work out in the field.
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# ¿ Sep 5, 2023 23:24 |
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Ghostnuke posted:I kinda just realized I'm a dumbass - I can just weld an m12 nut to the underside of the 1/2 inch hole and thread the bolt through. Comedy option, file the 1/2" hole out to fit the m12 nut, then weld the nut on.
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# ¿ Oct 18, 2023 00:16 |
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Also not putting so much heat into what you're welding that it corkscrew as soon as you remove said hold downs.
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# ¿ Jan 19, 2024 21:09 |
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# ¿ May 12, 2024 10:19 |
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It shows up just fine, it's just that small.
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# ¿ Feb 28, 2024 23:52 |