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ANIME AKBAR posted:3d printing is definitely not economical, at least not for anything beyond a few prototypes. Just the cost of the consumables would be excessive compared to the machined plastic enclosures. I work in automation and have incorporated progressive dies in a couple machines. For example, an 11 step die for a crimp ran about $65k. For your batch size I recommend a company with a CNC punch like this. https://youtu.be/HBa1wDv-6bU This will give you a flat blank with all your features ready to fold into a box. We usually get the folding done locally so we save on shipping because 90d bends are cake for any sheet metal house.
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May 12, 2015 02:20
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ANIME AKBAR posted:One thing about a metal enclosure that concerned me was that sharpness of the edges, since this is something people would sometimes want to handle by hand. Are there also ways of smoothing out the corners and stuff? Yes these punched edges are sharp but one edge is a little less sharp. Another option is CNC laser, plasma or water jet to cut the blanks. I've seen water jets (Flow brand) with a tilting head that leaves a beveled edge but you'll need some planning to keep the edges consistent after bending. The gcode is more complicated as well so you'll have to find a shop that can do 3d programming. I think you'll have trouble beating the $7 ppu machining cost switching to metal. I'm on my phone right now but was your box two unique pieces or two of the same piece? If they can be the same then a single cavity mold might be the best choice. You'll get a great surface finish and the labor after the mold making will be cheap. E-also, getting cheap here, maybe you can use a standard rectangular tube with end caps. bred fucked around with this message at 16:08 on May 12, 2015 |
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May 12, 2015 16:04
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Bends can be anywhere but it will increase cost when you don't use standard angles. I think your sketch has a trouble spot where the two bends almost make a point to the right. There may not be enough room for the tooling but check with your vendor. I think they'd work from the crown outwards. There's a How it's Made that shows how they make the tapered octogon telephone/utility poles. They cut a notch in the flat profile to line up the bends with the bender. Also they had huge galvanizing tanks that were very cool.
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Dec 19, 2015 03:25
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Yes, metric gets frustrating when you have a time crunch. If you have the time, take a look at Misumi for specialty metric parts. I do machine design and usually spend 30-40% of the budget with them. They have a lot of standard components but also configurable sizes. I've used them to get custom polyurethane bushings for my car as they were cheaper than oem.
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Mar 14, 2016 19:55
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Can you use a small grinder/dremel to shave the blunt wave shape of each tooth down to a sharp smaller wave?
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Apr 12, 2016 19:56
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They will cut a flat angle. He's probably looking at the profile and thinking about it like an endmill. The cutting surface is concave so it cuts outside in at one or two points instead of cutting with the full profile all the time. By the time the tool rotates to the end of the cutting edge, there is a full cone wall behind the last point of the cut.
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Jul 15, 2016 15:49
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Milk it with sandpaper to scratch to fresh surface just before you clamp on the fitting.
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Sep 19, 2016 14:39
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Sagebrush posted:Out of curiosity, how do they figure out how much steel they're gonna need to make that thing before they forge it? Do they calculate the weight of the finished product and put in that much steel plus a small margin? Deliberately use too much, make the part significantly oversize, and just spend more time machining it back later? What happens if they accidentally use too little -- is it possible to forge-weld more material on to build it up, or does the whole thing go back in the furnace? At work, we make the same stuff over and over so we have a lot of past evidence about how much is enough and what our starting weight should be. I'm not sure about that company's process controls but for us, each product has specific manufacturing instructions identifying what we need and we track the raw material consumption continuously so we have awesome trend data to reference. Our workers get a shop order and a pile of enough material which can have anywhere from 5% to 200% more material than needed depending on history. Yes, its tricky to get it right the first time but by the 10th, 100th or 1000th time doing the same thing, you'll have a pretty good idea of an acceptable range for most measurements and quantities.
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Dec 23, 2016 18:46
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Mudfly posted:How do you make a long surface (1-3m), such as the top of a bar or beam, or the bits a lathe moves across, really really flat? Cool Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/p/BGySzuQkwhR/ https://www.instagram.com/p/BKpxJadAlWj/
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Jan 27, 2017 18:34
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In the plumbing section they have little syringes that are a mix of solder and resin that are foolproof that helped me figure it out. You may have to abrade to fresh material. I had some overheating roadblock in my head that I struggled with in the beginning. You may be too hot and burning the flux. Another thing I learned for plumbing is to use a vacuum cleaner to dry out the pipe. Just tape it in position while you go find your tools. I assumed the heat would keep it dry but if water is close you get an irregular temperature distribution. bred fucked around with this message at 16:58 on Mar 12, 2017 |
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Mar 12, 2017 16:56
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Seconding SmoothOn. Tons of options and I bought through Mcmaster. Mcmaster has a helpful picture showing all the different hardnesses. Depending on the slenderness ratio, I recommend suspending an all thread with some nuts or something else you can use to pull it out. I used shore 80 or so to recast bushings in my car. It came out like hard plastic close to PVC.
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Apr 27, 2017 03:29
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I'd make those 2x of the same part that fit together with rotational symmetry to save on complexity. I might print it rotated 90deg so the fdm can have many single noodles travelling through the L to avoid a weak lap joint at the corner.
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May 2, 2017 17:35
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I recommend measuring what you have and buying close enough replacements. SDP does have CAD that I've used to wire out spur gears with success but you may find helical replacements here: https://shop.sdp-si.com/catalog/?cid=p335 And bore to your shafts.
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May 14, 2017 14:50
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Cool info, thanks! Another option I've done is replace gears with chain drive. Two sprockets and some chain will get you going if you have room.
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May 15, 2017 17:15
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Can I use a scroll saw for brass? Like, up to 1/2". Because band saws are expensive Yes, go for it. I remember youtube superstar click spring using a coping saw to cut his brass and a scroll saw is like a motorized coping saw. Half inch is thicker that what he does but it will work.
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Jul 14, 2017 00:07
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I'm not sure I understand the goal but maybe string a cable along the weld and as a path from the manhole like the stop bell on a bus.
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Jul 15, 2017 01:35
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I think my friend walked the best path for learning to weld: he took a welding class at a community college and found they basically have open shop Fridays where the students hang out and work on their personal projects using the school's awesome equipment. He was saving to buy his own stuff but never did because the shop was so convenient. Welding equipment is a pretty big investment so I recommend a class or equipment rental to minimize your $$ risk.
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Aug 23, 2017 20:43
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Pimblor posted:a simple square aluminum external gas tank, The tank part is pretty straight forward and exactly what you're thinking. I recommend bending where you can so it's fewer seams to weld. You may want some internal features to keep the outlet submerged but it's probably not an issue if this tank is feeding the OEM tank and it's mostly highway riding. Project binky did an awesome job walking through fuel tank design. You probably won't have their strict size and shape requirements since it's external. Here's a link: https://youtu.be/I_ajcKhHLjU
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Sep 3, 2017 04:56
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Remember, that Binky video is about the primary/only tank for a fuel injected car so they have to interface with a high pressure fuel system and plan for sloshing during turns. Bikes don't have the same lateral forces because they tilt to turn so the forces are still mostly down relative to the chassis. Also, I'd assume this iron butt style riding would have minimal turning. If you're just gravity feeding to a carb like most old motorcycles, you have one outlet and no return and just have to plan for sloshing with maybe some dangling volume much lower than the rest of the tank. Take a look at this dirt bike tank: http://www.trail-pro.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/2.jpg Now this U shaped volume becomes two volumes as the fuel level dropps below the upper area so some have some plumbing to connect to both low points. On one of my old bikes, I would just have to tilt the bike over for a few seconds to transfer fuel to the other side.
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Sep 3, 2017 17:53
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Here's a cool Instagram if you want some long chips in your feed. https://www.instagram.com/p/BTsdQ86gizW/
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Oct 18, 2017 22:01
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Phone posting at work but For metric gears o to http://us.misumi-ec.com. Click through automation components-rotary power transmission-gears-spur gears. Use the left column to choose 14teeth, material, bore, style, etc. Download the cad and check your work.
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Dec 1, 2017 19:59
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I've been on two projects at work with dies like that. One used flat clear plastic with an embedded blade and the other was etched steel that wrapped around a magnetic drum. For both cases we outsourced them because they were so cheap: ~$100 for the plastic and under $200 for the steel. We're cutting polyurethane film and they last around 100k cuts. We run the flat ones through a roller press with another piece of plastic to back up the cut. They have foam to help keep our production team from getting cut but it still happens. Depending on your volume, you may be interested in partnering with a cnc pattern maker or cnc router with vacuum and a drag knife. bred fucked around with this message at 04:23 on Feb 11, 2018 |
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Feb 11, 2018 04:20
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Also, be ready to iterate your die design, especially if your packaging has any folding or complex tabs. I feel like we go through 5-10 rounds of design changes before we understand what areas are important and how to control the dimensions on our boxes. With anything, perfection is possible but don't plan on it.
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Feb 12, 2018 08:05
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Very cool. While you're thinking about the motor: one thing that bothered me about his grinder is the motor crosses the pivot and required a big cutout on his table. If the motor was to the right, I think the bench would be simpler at the cost of a heavier flip and more footprint.
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Feb 17, 2018 17:16
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Looks like you have a lot of good rack left. Is it easier to cut off the chute, clock it to use a fresh part of the rack, and reweld the chute?
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Mar 21, 2018 21:28
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Yes, we order machine bases at work up to 12'x12' per piece and have them blanchard ground to our flatness spec. We lost a supplier a couple years ago and it took us a few tries to find another vendor with that capacity. One of the channels I follow did it recently on a smaller scale : https://youtu.be/64WwRXmVbHc
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May 12, 2018 23:00
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Those are some tiny features. You can try and grind down a HSS cutoff tool for prototyping. Can you redesign so you're feeding in a 30, 45, or 90 deg cutter so the profile is like a big zag?
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May 21, 2018 03:11
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Ambrose Burnside posted:That's a pretty good idea, 15 degrees of draft per side would make em a lot easier to cut and adds some visual interest without seriously compromising them still managing heat. I'd still be boned irt having to buy or make the tooling but a 30-degree wedge with clearance and a very modest nose is easy enough to hand-grind without much fussing about. Ya I was thinking something like McMaster 3367A914.
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May 21, 2018 19:00
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A Proper Uppercut posted:So, question. A little while ago I waterjet cut some A2 knife blanks for a goon. Yes, forging moves the metal grain into the final shape. There is a structure under the outside geometry that is holding that shape together. Forging flattens and stretches the crystal structure to improve the strength of the final shape. That plate was probably rolled and ground so it had a grain close to parallel with the ground surface like pages in a book. Now think about grinding the pages away to make an edge: the pages are still straight columns and will support the edge, but If it were forged into a knife shape, we'd have almost the same number of columns and they would be thinner, bending towards the edge, providing more support. Here are some explainations https://www.scotforge.com/Why-Forging/Forging-101/Forging-Advantages
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Jun 3, 2018 18:17
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Follow them at https://www.instagram.com/daichihira/ One time they said it was because the beams would deflect too far from any side cutting loads but then I've seen them do it to plates, too.
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Jun 15, 2018 20:57
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I did a few tube frames of .090 1" 4130 at 60-90 amp using 1/8" filler for reference. You're overheating so try 20-30amp. I'd start too low until you can control a small puddle, then grow and hold to the size of your weld, then move your puddle to the seam. I like to use a bigger fill rod because you don't have to feed as many linear inches of it per fill volume.
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Sep 6, 2018 17:37
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Don't worry about a perfect nest between the tubes. You're probably going to adjust this one side at a time and it would be pretty annoying if they were tight. I would consider putting the small tube on the bottom so there's a lot of big tube to use as a handle and you wouldn't get pinched when lowering.
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Dec 2, 2018 05:43
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SniperWoreConverse posted:A hole the diameter of the tip of the tang or what? Cause the wider part of the tang is basically huge compared to the tip You want all or most of the Tang in the handle. Try the mid Tang dimension as your hole to start with. Press your handle on by hand and then hammer it on. You want to hold the handle and let the file hang so you're just hitting against the file's momentum and not compressing/buckling the file against a hard stop.
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Dec 18, 2018 21:49
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I thought this catapult launcher would be good for hammering. https://youtu.be/97ruz5Xrqqs
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Jan 11, 2019 01:12
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Belt buckle - protectaclear is the thinnest, most invisible coating I've worked with. Works great, too. Shop organization - our shop has all of the mills at 45d like your last concept. I guess they can pack in more mills per square foot that way but it might help fit in to your space. I'd extrude some exclusion zones around your equipment like you mill's max x travel and the area you'd be standing to help with layout. I might do wood, machining, grinding to keep the swarf away from wood. Engaging a threaded rod - I like the knobs that have are tapped and then clearance drilled off axis so it slides until it's flat and the threads engage. It would need a quarter or half turn to release and also fall freely if nothing is supporting it. Some other ideas: You could do a shaft collar at the risk of thread damage. Maybe you turn the assembly horizontal and just hang a weight like a door stop. Snake nut with knob or spring plunger? Caddy nut for strut channel?
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Mar 27, 2019 17:43
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My favorite is to drill through and hammer in a spring pin.
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Apr 8, 2019 22:19
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At my last job we did a lot of wire crimping and most of the machines were a single crank style with an AC motor. A team tried to make one with a linear motor but they designed it so it would all fall down when lost power then everyone just complained and cancelled it. I wasn't on the team dealing with them directly but I can share my impressions: The crank style worked fine. They were in production so we just had to tune and maintain one setup. I remember the tooling needing the most maintenance and the presses felt bulletproof. They only broke a few times and it was because of the user. Some measurements from memory: our crank radius was about 2-4 inches and the crimp stroke was about 200 thou. I understand the motor advantage changes throughout the rotation. We ran fast enough that the press cycle was less than a second. In your case, you might need to do some speed reduction to get advantage for a deep press. The paperwork of the 4 servo design is interesting. I wonder why they have ball socket connections like that. I'd keep the crank motion 2D so you can use rollers or bushings instead of balls so your contact area is higher and stresses lower.
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Apr 15, 2019 19:54
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Blanchard grinding with a Capital B is done on a Blanchard maching and would have a circular pattern to the grinding marks. Your surface is probably milled with an insert cutter along an axis.
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May 17, 2019 01:29
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Fishing line might have the diameters and colors you want.
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Jun 10, 2019 18:35
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I'd try drilling a hole in the shaft to fit the 7mm square and bed the square post in the blind hole with 5min epoxy first. If that failed, I'd do the same thing plus try and drill tangent pin holes that let dowel pins engage the square. You can probably fit 2-4 pins along the length and may not need bedding. I like bedding to lower the contact stress. Last option would be to drill and put a fastener through the valve boss. Or drill and tap the hole walls for screws to grip the boss.
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Feb 1, 2020 18:17
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