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I would like to give forging and blacksmithing a try. I can make a simple forge, I can buy an anvil at harbor freight, but where's the best place to get metal? I'm in Providence RI and there are a ton of scrap metal buyers nearby, but they seem to just load the metal onto ships. I don't know if they'd sell single leaf springs to someone like me. There are some bigger manufacturers in the area, but from their websites I get the impression they sell orders measured in tons. Not two or three bars of steel. Any advice?
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Apr 22, 2014 13:11
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Leperflesh posted:Well, google mapping around near Providence, you've got a cool looking jewelry metal/casting metal supply company called Hallmark Metals, and a source for nickel-based metals. Thank you, that's very helpful. one other question, though : What kind of metal should I be looking for? I'd like to start simple, hammer and shape some rebar, maybe make my own hammer, then perhaps an axe head. I ordered some tongs, but making my own seems ideal. The end goal is to make knives, though. So besides leaf springs, what else is a good buy?
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Apr 22, 2014 16:06
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I appreciate all the advice so far. Since the HF anvil is not recommended, what about this one? http://bit.ly/1l3gq5E
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Apr 23, 2014 22:06
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I have anvil supplies coming, including a nice tree stump, but they aren't here yet. But I DO have a working forge. And a lot of questions. First, any good links or resources on fire management? What do you guys use to light it? I've been falling back to my boy scout days and building little fires out of shaved up sticks and scrap lumber. I'm thinking I should one day soon invest in a handheld propane torch and just use that. How do you make sure it's OUT. I turned off the air, spread everything out, and it seems out, but it's still smoldering and smoking a little. Do you pour water on it and deal with the mess every time, or is there a trick I'm missing?
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Apr 26, 2014 23:22
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I'm using coal. I found a local supplier and it's ridiculously cheap. 40 lb bags for $11 each. Hardwood charcoal is something like a dollar a pound, so I'll use coal. I started saving scraps and shavings from wood working projects, I realize the paper thin curls created by a hand plane are perfect firestarting equipment. Once I get a semi workable space set up, I'll share pictures. This thread has already been an excellent resource.
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Apr 27, 2014 19:53
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I got my little blacksmith shop set up. I'll take pictures, but you gotta promise not to laugh at the ridiculously small anvil I found (I think it's 20 lbs?) but I've been practicing basic things like drawing out, etc. I picked up some scrap steel and some new steel. I've had very good luck with the new stuff, it's 3/8" round mild steel and I can shape it as needed. The scrap is bigger, ranging from 1/2" square up to even bigger stuff. I tried forging some of it, and even at a yellow hit, it does not want to move under the hammer. Even a huge heavy swing doesn't make much of a difference. I'm starting to wonder if it's some weird alloy, so here's my real question. It's magnetic, but when I cut a little notch out of it with my angle grinder, I got no sparks. Not a little, not a lot, but none at all. The mild steel I've been working with produces a decent amount of sparks when I cut it or grind it, but not the scrap. What does that mean?
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May 1, 2014 13:54
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Uncle Enzo posted:Are you sure it isn't cast iron? That's the only thing I can think of that wouldn't spark at all. If it is, stop hitting it. It won't forge and can just crumble, throwing hot metal everywhere. No, it came in bar stock. So I'm pretty sure it isn't cast iron, unless cast iron comes in long bars of even dimensions. I'm not hitting it anyway; it's pretty drat hard to work, and I'd rather spend what time I have being productive.
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May 1, 2014 18:29
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Ambrose Burnside posted:iirc all ferrous metals, even cast iron, should spark at least a little bit. Are you doing the test in a darkened space? Have you tried the spark-test at night, when ambient light in general is diminished? If you can see mild steel sparks fine then the lighting probably isnt an issue but "no sparks at all" is odd. Have you tried doing a quench with a hot bar yet, to see if it's hardenable or not? I will experiment with it more, but at the same time, I've been blacksmithing for... 4 whole days? So I'm the definition of a novice. I'm still working on the basics, like drawing out and flattening, and turning a piece of round stock into a piece of square stock. When I can do that sort of thing without taking forever, then I might try heating up some of these pieces of scrap again and see what happens.
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May 1, 2014 21:03
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I just ground through more of it, and did see small sparks when in a dark area. I cut off a small piece and was able, with a lot of heat and a lot of hammering, to forge it into a chisel. I'm hoping this will be a good hot chisel for hardy cutting. I'm treating it like high carbon; it's annealing in the ashes now, I'll rough cut it into shape, and then temper it and see how it goes.
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May 2, 2014 20:47
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FoE posted:I bought the second anvil from this same guy on ebay. It's in good shape, and although I know it's not heavy enough really, I figure it'll be enough to help me decide whether I like smithing enough to buy a heavier one. Plus at the rate anvils sell on kijiji I know I can get rid of it easily. I made a forge out of a roasting pan and an air mattress inflating pump, like this one : http://www.target.com/p/coleman-high-performance-electric-pump/-/A-11115253 My forge isn't great, but it works. The only real problem is without a "proper" tuyere, I don't have a good way to remove clinkers and ash. I end up emptying it out every few hours and starting a whole new fire. But it gets hot enough, and I think I spent maybe $50 building the whole thing. Here's a good example similar to what I did. http://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Make-A-Bladesmiths-Forge/#step0 Pagan fucked around with this message at 19:55 on May 8, 2014 |
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May 8, 2014 19:48
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FoE posted:That looks sweet. I haven't got much yard space though, so I'm trying the ever popular coffee can forge, but I'm terrible at molding the plaster mixture. Does your forge produce much smoke? I'm concerned that if I burn coal in the backyard the neighbours aren't going to like it. It produces smoke in the beginning, and whenever you add fresh coal. But it's not too bad, and after two weeks of forging and 80 lbs of coal burnt, no-one has complained yet. I use a fan to disperse the smoke; a proper chimney is on my wish list, though. Use this stuff : http://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-1-2-Gal-Furnace-Stove-Cement-35515/202078154?keyword=furnace+cement Pre-mixed, and much better than anything else I tried. It's thick enough that it stays in place and holds things together very well. I tried clay, plaster, and refractory cement. None of them worked as well as this stuff, and it's available at my local hardware store. Also, invest in some clothes! This is the dirtiest hobby I've ever had. Two hours at the forge and I look like a cartoon caricature of a chimney sweep. Pagan fucked around with this message at 02:28 on May 9, 2014 |
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May 9, 2014 02:07
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I have been having fun with my little forge, and one thing I'm working on is a knife blade. I picked up some old lawnmower blades, and I thought I was doing pretty well until I went to quench harden it. Unfortunately, it warped. Just a little twist, but enough that it's not flat. What's the solution? There isn't enough material to grind it flat, and it's too springy to just hammer flat. Is my only solution going to be, bring it back up to forging heat, flatten it, and then hope it doesn't warp again during the next quench?Beardless posted:I'm going to be getting a Bernzomatic TS4000 Propane torch in about a month. Some quick googling tells me that it's not suitable for blacksmithing on it's own, but could I build a forge around it? Or would I be better off building a charcoal forge? I apologize if this is a stupid question, but I've never really done any kind of smithing. I have seen some very well done gas powered forges. http://www.anvilfire.com/article.php?bodyName=/FAQs/gas_forges.htm My biggest concern would be cost; Propane is expensive and that page says "even a small forge can go through a BBQ size can of propane in a day."
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May 17, 2014 15:37
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Always quench blades on edge- if you quench a blade on an angle or with one of the flat sides touching the water first, it'll cool unevenly and warp, or even trap an air bubble on the underside and make things worse. Also begin stirring it around as soon as it's fully immersed, to clear away any clinging bubbles from the water boiled away during the quench + so it doesn't sit in a bubble of hot water. I ended up re doing it, and I read on iForge that you can sometimes get a few moments of hammering out of a piece after quenching. I got it mostly flat; it's got a hint of a curve in the handle but for my first piece, I think it's pretty good. The epoxy is drying on the handle tonight, and I should have some brass rod arriving early next week. I'm surprised at how much thinner the blade ended up after grinding and polishing. Probably doesn't help that I ended up doing two rounds of it; one before tempering and again after. But, it's going to make a perfect filet knife; it's amazingly flexible and springy, but still stiffer than my storebought filet knife, and should hold a better edge. One thing I'm wondering about.... I'd like to try building my own belt sanding rig; something kinda custom, mounted on a wall, maybe with water flowing over the belt. I can shape supports and struts, but where would I get a roller bearing... thing? The round spinning dowel-like pieces that the belt rolls over, what's the best way to get those? Has anyone here built their own sanding / grinding rig?
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May 17, 2014 23:53
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Thirding all that; I would like to see how you build your own setup. I was looking at something much cheaper http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003AKF4EE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1MPE0XJFXVIA4 But I'm wondering if the forces and stresses generated by a decently powerful motor would just destroy those.
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May 20, 2014 16:36
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the spyder posted:Half of me is hoping you're kidding, the other half is scared. Just no. Those are 100x not meant for this application and would overheat/melt/explode- you choose the order. I was planning on using those to mount steel pipes that would spin; not put the sandpaper directly on the nylon. But yeah, it was just a thought, not a full fledged plan.
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May 20, 2014 19:30
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engessa posted:I recently started a beginners course smithing at a local smith. It's pretty basic but awesome all the same. Made an album with some pictures: http://imgur.com/a/6v7C1 I've been doing forging on my own, but I signed up for a course too. It looks like you got to make some cool stuff! I'm hoping to learn how to forge weld. I've tried it a few times on my own, but no luck. That's that real downside of trying to learn on your own. I'm sure I'm doing something wrong, but I have no idea what. Hopefully the class will help.
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May 22, 2014 00:01
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Blacksmithing question : I'm use a coal forge, and purchasing "blacksmith's coal" from a local supplier. How clean should this all burn? I'm ending up with a forge full of ash; chunks of coal that didn't burn all the way, and of course, clinkers. I do what I can to get rid of the clinkers, but I still have to empty my forge either every time or every other time I use it. Is that normal? Or should coal burn away completely, eventually, and leave nothing but clinkers? Also, how often do you add fresh coal?
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May 24, 2014 15:51
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I am still learning (although I had some success yesterday) but from what I understand, there are two major styles of forge welding. I'd call "welding in advance with a welder" to be a 3rd style, perhaps pre-welding? Fagot welding is when you fold the metal on itself and weld it together that way. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yn6M7FIsGkQ&list=WL&index=29 That's a great example of Fagot welding. The word Fagot means "bundle of sticks," FYI. It's easier because the metal is already held together, and you don't need an extra pair of hands. The other major type of welding is Scarf Welding. That's when you have two separate pieces and are trying to attach them. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=luh6TgUW0u4&list=WL&index=41 Question about flux : What's everyone using? I think one of my biggest problems when attempting to forge weld, is the faces to be welded get dirty, and my flux doesn't seem to be working. I'm using a mix of borax and playground sand; I'm thinking I should switch to just borax.
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May 25, 2014 15:49
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Ambrose Burnside posted:I've never actually successfully forge-welded- all my attempts were done too cold or melted the iron- but everything I've heard says that straight borax should cut it for nearly all jobs, if not necessarily being the easiest or least failure-prone option; that said, proprietary blends sometimes include other boron compounds like boric acid to provide oxidation protection at lower temperatures as well, while EZ Weld (maybe other compounds??) includes very fine iron/steel shavings or millscale that melts first and helps the metals join properly, at the expense of a visible weld line. I've had mixed success; I think I've tried it 4 or 5 times. Once I got a decent weld (on a small practice piece) and I have gotten partial welds, but nothing that I can really point to and say "I did it!" What's frustrating, and what I hope the class will help with, is it seems like there are really only three steps. Get it hot, flux it, hit it with a hammer. I'm doing all of the above, so when it doesn't work, I don't know what I'm doing wrong. I'm also modifying my home made forge in the hopes that I can get better airflow, and hopefully cleaner heat.
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May 26, 2014 14:49
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mjan posted:In my personal experience, hitting hard isn't nearly as important as hitting squarely (as you mentioned with "accurately swing"). I do almost all of my forge welding with a 2lb hammer, and the only times I've run into serious problems were if That knife is gorgeous, and that's also my main goal for this craft. Knives and axes  Can you talk to me about your fire, when you're forge welding? What it looks like, what it's shaped like, and where you put the pieces? My pieces are always covered in coal, ash, and crud when I pull them out, even if I've fluxed. By the time I brush that off and reflux, it's cooled off a lot.
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May 27, 2014 02:22
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I'm in a similar blacksmithing boat. I built a forge out of a roasting pan and a air mattress inflater. I did a lot of reading and watching a lot of youtube videos, and I have been practicing with tapering, scrolling, and basic techniques. My goal is to make pattern welded knives, too. There's a place near me that offers classes in all sorts of metalwork, from welding to jewelry. I signed up for a basic smithing class; three hours every thursday for a month. First class was last week. On one hand, I don't think I'll learn anything new, but on the other, it's nice to have an instructor looking over your shoulder. Plus, once I finish the class, I can use the shop on weekends and it's incredible. They have about 10 anvils, 1 coal forge, 2 propane forges, and just about any sort of metalworking equipment you can imagine. So I think it's a good investment. One thing I've learned, though... I have WAY too much air going into my fire. I went to a ren faire, and between that and the class, I was able to see a coal forge in proper action. The airflow is very slight; I'd estimate maybe like a soft breeze? I had mine ROARING. So to those of you using shop vacs and other things, you're probably running way too much air. I spent about $20 on Amazon to get a 120mm computer case fan, a power supply for it, and a speed controller. I'm hoping I can rig it up and get my airflow down to proper levels. I consider stock removal knife making to be kinda cheating, but it's still something you should try. I've made two knives that way, and even though there was only a little forging, I'm glad I was able to practice handle making and sharpening. One of the posts I read on a smithing forum said that making wooden knives or swords was good practice. After all, if you can't make it out of wood, you'll never make it out of metal.
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Jun 10, 2014 19:33
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I had an amazing experience at the last day of my blacksmithing class. This is a long post, and the good part doesn't even start until about halfway through, but I think it’s worth the read. Quick recap, I've been blacksmithing on my own since around March of this year. I set up a small forge, bought some tools, and watched a lot of youtube videos. In the past few months, I think I've gotten a decent handle on the basics. I can taper, scroll, etc. The downside is, my setup isn't the best (among other things, my anvil is tiny) and I have no idea if I'm actually doing things right. Sure I can replicate results, but am I doing all the little things correctly? It's satisfying when I get things right, but very frustrating when I waste an afternoon trying something more advanced. I've also found it's a very good hobby for chilly weather, but miserable when it's hot. My idea of Heaven would be working as a swordsmith in Valhalla : frosty snow outside, good steel inside, and topless Viking maidens come to visit frequently. I want to see snowflakes falling onto the anvil and melting as I work. As it gets hotter, I find myself less and less eager to go out and forge. Hell would be an eternity spent smithing for an ancient Arab kingdom. Hot all the time, probably making something boring like horseshoes, and all the women are covered head to toe. There is a place in Providence called The Steel Yard. They're a non profit artists studio specializing in metalwork. They have classes on jewelry making, welding, fabrication, and blacksmithing. I figured, with all the time and money I've spent on my home setup, what's a little more money to make sure I'm doing everything right? I signed up a few months ago for the June "Intro to Blacksmithing" class. 4 Thursdays, 3 hours each session. The last week was one I didn't want to miss. One of my goals as a smith has always been to make knives and axes. I've made a fillet knife from a lawnmower blade, but it was more stock removal with a tiny bit of forging. The one thing that always trips me up is forge welding. I've attempted it many times at home, but I've only gotten it ever to work once, and I've wasted a lot of metal trying. I mentioned that to the instructor on day one, and she said on the last class we could cover forge welding. I've been looking forward to this class ever since. I decided I'd bring in some of my own metal. I grabbed a lawnmower blade, a piece of mild steel, and a piece of 1095 steel I'd bought on ebay. The instructor was happy to help out. After she walked the class through their project, she took my pieces and made me a little billet. A few minutes with a plasma cutter, a flap wheel, and a welder, and I had a billet that was about 4 inches long, an inch wide, and 2 inches tall. It looked like a book with a few loose pages, as the hand cut pieces didn’t all line up perfectly She then welded a long handle of rebar to it, and passed it back to me. I decided I would use the gas forges first. They are set to a temp that's great for forging, but won't burn the metal. You could leave a piece in all day and it wouldn't burn, just glow orange hot until the gas ran out. Once I got the billet evenly warmed up I would transfer it to the coal forge. Since The Steel Yard is first and foremost an artist’s space, there are always random people working on this or that. Today, two gentleman were hanging out at the coal forge. One was a hipster looking guy making some tongs, and the other was grumpy looking with a long bushy beard. I introduced myself to the hipster guy, Nick, and told him what I planned on doing. I didn't want to interfere with his work. To my surprise, he said he'd put his project away and help me out with mine. I told him that wasn't necessary, but he insisted. Once my billet was an even orange all over, I moved it to the coal forge. Nick kept an eye on me, reminding me to turn the billet every now and then, and occasionally fussing with the fire. In the meantime, he would speak to the grumpy looking bearded guy. They weren't speaking English, and with all the noise I couldn't figure out what they might be speaking. I could tell that Nick was asking advice about our project. Once the billet started to get hot, they both came over. Nick said "The first time, you just want soft taps. Don't hit it very hard. Let's flux it now, put it back in, then get ready to do the weld after it's hot." I applied some borax, put it back in the fire, and in no time it was a bright yellow. Time for those first taps. When I returned the metal to the fire, Nick told me that the next heat would need strikers. The bearded guy took over fire management, and Nick walked off. I introduced myself to the guy with the beard. His name was Freddy, but that's all I got through the language barrier. Nick returned, holding two massive sledgehammers. "When it gets hot, you're just gonna hold the piece here, and we'll hammer," Nick said as he and Freddy lined up on the other side of the anvil. Nick said it was ready, so I took out the billet and set it on the anvil. It didn't go well. Every time they hit the billet, the handle would jump from my grip, so either the next hammer blow would strike the anvil directly, or they'd stop and wait for me to reset. By the time the billet was cold again, they'd barely gotten 5 good strikes in. Freddy grabbed a scrap piece of steel and showed me the position to use as the one holding the billet. Turns out he's Russian, and Nick was able to translate for me. You don't just casually hold the metal on the anvil and wish your strikers luck. Nick said "The strikers are going to aim for the same spot on the anvil, every time," as Freddy drew an X on the anvil with soapstone. "Your job is to move the metal around so we hit it in the order you want us to. Some people start in the middle and work out, others start at one end and try to push the slag out as they go. It's your project, so it's up to you, just make sure it makes sense to us." We practiced as the metal heated back up. "We'll go down one side and up, then I'll flip and we'll do it again. Sound good?" I said. Nick translated and they both nodded. I'd like to add that I have a love-hate relationship with certain safety gear, and as the temperature rises, that needle swings more to hate. Tonight it was hot, around 90 degrees and so humid it felt like you could wring water from the air itself. I like my eyes, and not being blind is an important part of my job as a photographer. I hate safety goggles, though, because as I sweat, it drips into the goggles and I can't see. Gloves can be nice, but they don't REALLY protect you from metal that's hot, and I find they make my hands too slippery for hammering. Heavy pants? Great, except it's a million degrees in here. Leather boots? Sure, I need my toes unburnt and uncrushed, but do they have to swim in their own self made soup for 4 hours? Most of the time, I wear safety glasses when I'm doing actual work (forging, grinding, etc) and then put them in a shirt pocket when the iron goes back into the fire. I might wear a glove on one hand just to protect from sparks and radiant heat, but sometimes it's not worth it. Nick said the steel was ready. I took a deep breath, and tried to really focus. I've read a couple of fantasy stories, I've watched Star Wars enough times; I know how to focus. I pushed all my distractions away, grabbed the handle with both hands, and set the glowing billet on the anvil. I held the handle firmly, focusing on the spot where Freddy drew the X. The first few strikes were gentle; just lifting the hammer up a foot or so, and letting gravity bring it down. When my strikers realized I wasn't going to let the billet get bounced around like last time, they started swinging harder. At first the hammers just bounced off the billet with a dull "tink." But that "tink" got louder and louder. They were raising the hammers higher and higher. Sparks started to come off the billet with each strike, flying past my hands and face. Initially I panicked; I don't have gloves, I don't even have a long sleeved shirt! Then the focused part of my mind spoke up. "Don’t make these guys stop just as they're getting into it. You've got safety goggles on, you'll be fine. It's just sparks, don't be a pussy." With that decision made, I started to move the billet. Nick and Freddy fell into a rhythm and swung their hammers hard. They were each swinging 12 pound sledges, and the "tink" grew into a booming, ringing sound that echoed off the walls. Sparks went everywhere, bouncing off my hands, my arms, and my face, but I didn't flinch. The fat little notebook of metal was being transformed into a smooth, sleek rectangle of glowing orange. I could hear different sounds now in each strike; the face of the hammer hitting the metal, then the anvil resonating with it's higher pitched song, answered by the dull echo coming off the walls. The sun had set, and we hadn't turned on many lights. Just the fire from the forge, the glowing metal, and the sparks cascading from every strike. I realized that I was getting the opportunity to learn from two people who had obvious experience. It felt amazing, and at that moment, there was almost nothing to separate me from an apprentice working in a shop a thousand years ago. I was consumed in the moment, and nothing else mattered except that piece of steel. The sounds and the sights drove out everything else, and for a few moments, I had no other thoughts. Eventually the metal cooled enough that they both stopped, and I put it back in the fire. Everyone else; the students, the instructor, had stopped to watch what we were doing, and all three of us were thrilled with the results. The billet was an even color, no marks or dark spots where the different pieces used to be. Just one even color, which is an excellent sign that the weld was successful. We alternated jobs for a bit, but I didn't strike. I just watched as we went through drawing it out, folding it, welding it again, and by the time we were about to do the 3rd weld, I could tell that they were getting tired from wielding those sledges. I didn’t just stand around waiting, though. I paid close attention to everything that Nick and Freddy did, from how they fiddled with the fire to the way Freddy made sure the billet was always straight and true. Turns out, they are both international teachers. They were in Providence to do a demo; Freddy is famous for making animal and people sculptures out of iron, using only traditional blacksmithing techniques. Nick is a teacher at a school in Bogota, but works with Freddy and came to Providence with him. Once I realized Freddy spoke Spanish, we were able to communicate, and I was able to get to know him a lot better. They both thought it was cool to make Damascus steel, and were happy to help me out. But, late into the evening, I could tell they were getting tired of striking. I grew up splitting firewood. I don't consider myself all that macho; I fix computers for a living and I pay to get my oil changed. But you want a sledgehammerin' contest? I was splitting logs and stumps with an 8lb sledge when I was 10 years old. I got this. At this point, we'd folded the billet once and welded it again. It had been drawn out and folded, and the first heat of light taps were done. While we were waiting for it to heat back up, I practiced striking. There's a bit of an art to it, especially working with someone else. Nick and Freddy had obviously worked together a lot, as they fell into a rhythm instantly. In addition to timing it corectly, you can't swing the hammer the way you would if you were alone. You've got to move your hammer out of the way so the next guy can hit where he’s aiming, not your hammer. We practiced a bit; Freddy held a scrap piece while Nick and I got our rhythm down. Finally, it was time. Glasses on, in position, hammer raised... At first it was light hammer taps, kinda slow... Then harder, and faster. Soon,I was putting my back and shoulders into it, lifting the sledge high and smashing it down onto the billet. Once again the shop rang and echoed, but this time I was the one making the anvil ring; I was making the walls echo, I was the one forcing that steel into the shape I wanted. I was molding metal to my will, with fire and sweat and skill. I don't know how long it lasted, but I kept pace with Nick. Every strike hit true, and when the metal went back into the fire we all cheered and congratulated each other. I imagine, to someone watching, I was just a sweaty middle aged guy swinging a hammer. I didn't feel that way, though. I felt like I could have been in a castle somewhere, perhaps in a smithy overlooking a fjord in the 11th century, or working for a Daimyo in Feudal Japan. Not only was I doing something using almost entirely traditional methods (plasma cutting and welding aside, I know, but that's why I said "almost"), but those methods were working. I was doing it WELL! I was finally doing the one step that, before tonight, has always eluded me. We did two more heats; by the end of the third one my tired arms could not accurately swing the sledge anymore and I didn't want anyone to get hurt. Nick was tired but could have kept going. I guess doing this for a few years gives you impressive endurance! It getting was late, and we didn't want to start the whole process again. We cleaned up, let the billet cool, and I brought it home with me. I'm about to leave on a vacation, but as soon as I get back, I will try to put another fold or two in that billet and then decide what I'm going to make. I can't say I made it "all by myself," as the help I received was invaluable, but I can say I worked on every single step. I can't wait to make the anvil ring again, smell the coal smoke, and listen to the walls echo with hammer strikes. Pagan fucked around with this message at 19:04 on Jul 5, 2014 |
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Jul 5, 2014 15:44
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ArtistCeleste posted:That was a great story. Nothing compares to really good instruction. In my experience that blacksmiths are all like that. All of them want to help and support each other and will take time out of their day to do that. Sounds like you got a good welcome to the community. I am used to forging by myself, and I hadn't thought about how other people's stuff could send metal flying across the room. But it's a good point; I'll keep them on. And as far as the gas forge, I wouldn't leave metal unattended all day, I just figured that was a good way of saying "your metal will never burn in this gas forge." I was worried that in the coal forge, the outer layers would burn before the middle got up to temp. Gas forge struck me as a great way to get around that problem. I'm glad you like the story. It was an amazing experience, and I hope my story communicates that. Pagan fucked around with this message at 22:52 on Jul 5, 2014 |
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Jul 5, 2014 22:46
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I'm glad everyone enjoys my story. Once I get it edited down I plan on submitting it to some local magazines. Now I have to decide what to do with this billet once it's ready. It'll make a big knife, so I have options. I'm glad I have some folks who can understand what an awesome experience it was, and I really appreciate all the help I got in this thread when I started on my own little garage forge.
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Jul 10, 2014 23:29
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Does anyone have any experience with inlaying other metals? In one of my older blacksmithing books, they describe a technique where you chisel a groove into iron, then heat up both metals and hammer the wire into the groove. When you're done, you've got iron with a brass line running through it. I experimented a little with it yesterday, but no success. It seems that brass melts long before iron gets up to forging temp. I then tried heating them separately, but even with a little bit of a red glow in the brass, it wouldn't stick to the steel.
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Jul 13, 2014 20:36
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I've seen Mokume-gane, but that's more like Damascus steel, just done with non-ferrous metals. I'm thinking something like this http://media.liveauctiongroup.net/i/8347/9752038_2.jpg This guy talks about a cold process http://www.seekyee.com/Bladesmithing/the%20process/tutorials/inlaytutorial1/inlaytutorial.htm
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Jul 13, 2014 21:50
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Any tips or advice on buying a handheld torch? Are they all pretty much the same, or is there a difference? My main use will be to heat up metal for bending and twisting. I'm thinking something like this
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Jul 17, 2014 12:41
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ReelBigLizard posted:I commissioned a few of these 1 pint tankards from our local coppersmith, he's sickeningly talented and this is like babby's first project stuff to him: That is fantastic. How much, and will he ship the US?
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Jul 19, 2014 00:37
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Missino posted:I have been lurking for a while so I figured out this would be a perfect place to start. OK so I am research metalworking as we speak as it has always interested me so I hope to become an active member of this thread. I don't know how expensive it is to get access to metals/scrap but I have been looking into http://www.govliquidation.com/ as I have had people confirm it as a legitimate site and it appears to offer access to a literally unlimited supply of both scrap and tools as a lot of stuff goes for literally nothing or doesn't sell at all. That site is pretty awesome; I just wish there was more stuff within driving distance. A table saw for $25 seems nice, but I shudder to think what it'll cost to ship 600 lbs across the country. I've decided that knowing how to weld would be a valuable addition to my blacksmithing skills. I'm already thinking about things to build, but I got to wondering... How do I get a good estimate of how strong something is? I'd like to find a site that says something along the lines of "a 1/2" square piece of iron can support 25 lbs over an unsupported span of two feet before bending, whereas a 2" square piece can hold 1,000 lbs" I don't need to pay someone with an engineering degree, but if I build my own forge, an anvil stand, or a park bench, I'd like to have a rough estimate of how thick the materials need to be. Pagan fucked around with this message at 21:42 on Aug 4, 2014 |
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Aug 4, 2014 21:34
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I have been doing a lot of smithing, but it's mostly practice and experimentation. I don't end up with a lot of finished products, since I'm still learning. However, I did finish something. My woodworking leaves a little to be desired, and it's far from perfect. One of my kitchen drawers, the front fell off. I decided to make a replacement instead of just gluing particle board back together. I had some pine lumber sitting around, along with some wood working hand tools. This was made with handsaws, chisels, and a handplane. I forged the handle myself, which was the whole point of the project, but I wanted a decent looking wood surface, too.    The notch in the bottom is where it fits into the sliding part of the drawer; I got a little too enthusiastic with the handplane, trying to make the corners of the bevel all square. I need practice, obviously, but I am very pleased with how this came out. It's sturdy and looks good (to me). I need to work on riveting and peening rivets by hand, though. That's something I just can't get the hang of. The front looks alright, but the back is a mess. Pagan fucked around with this message at 22:31 on Aug 11, 2014 |
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Aug 11, 2014 20:49
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ArtistCeleste posted:
Can you elaborate on this? I don't quite get how this would help, but laying those twists out was tough so I'm open to ideas. If I did make more, I would want to rig up a jig that at least gets the curves matching. Getting things even, especially since they are tapered and drawn out, was very tricky. ArtistCeleste posted:Does anyone have experience making hatchets or wood axes? My husband and I are going camping and I need one soon. Most the professional smiths seem to forge weld two sides together with tool steel on the edge. I was thinking of making a quicker axe from 4140. I would basically forge it like a hammer head but put an edge on it. Is there a reason not to do it this way? Axes and hatchets are on my list, too, so good luck! Whatever you end up doing, let me know  I was thinking I could get a block of mild steel, cut a slit in the front, then drift from the top, and finally forge weld, and it would be the best of both worlds. I do imagine that driving a drift through a big piece of tool steel is going to be very hard work on your own.
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Aug 14, 2014 22:10
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Talk to me about regulators. I'm building a gas forge, it'll burn propane. The burner is going to be this guy : 3/4" T-rex It looks like it need between 4 and 10 psi. I know I can't get just a cheapo BBQ grill regulator, but there's a big range. Amazon has a nice $40 one, and Harbor Freight has regulators as low as $10. Airgas says a "Decent" regulator will set me back $150. I also see simple brass inline regulators that cost $4, and they just have a thumbscrew with no gauge. What's the difference? I don't want to go cheap and blow myself to pieces, but I don't want to spend more money than I have to.
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Aug 20, 2014 22:53
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Thank you. One last question, is there any sort of material you add to joints? Similar to the teflon tape you put on water-based plumbing? Should I use a joint material at all, and if so, what should I get?
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Aug 21, 2014 19:43
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My gas forge is up and running, with my 3/4" T-rex burner from http://www.hybridburners.com/ However, it's not getting as hot as I would like. I have about 3 inches of kaowool around the chamber, but I'm wondering if the chamber is too small. It almost seems like I've got unburned propane spilling out the edges, even at relatively low pressures. It gets iron a light red at around 8 PSI, up to a dark to medium orange at 18 PSI, so it doesn't seem like much of a difference. Even at the low end, there are flames licking out of the front and the back. The chamber is just under 9 x 5 x 6. so around 250 cubic inches. Is it possible that it's too small a space? Now, I can forge all day on those temps, and if that's all I wanted, I'd be very happy. I love the convenience over coal; I can just turn a valve or two and in just a few minutes I'm ready to forge, and I can turn it off easily, too. Turning coal into coke takes time; it could be up to 30 minutes before I was ready, and copious smoke output for the whole time. However, I can't get up to temp to forge weld. Do other folks here have gas forges that they use, and can give some advice? I have a few theories, from the forge being too small, to having to run it at much higher pressures, to a problem with my forge construction and lining.
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Sep 16, 2014 15:32
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ArtistCeleste posted:Congrats on the new forge! I have never built my own. It's smaller than the forges I use, but most of what I make would fit into that space. It was very easy to build once I got the supplies. The only real hangup I had was the local weather; New England had a massive heatwave and it was 90+ (which is hot for here). I didn't want to work with the kaowool without safety gear, and I can only sweat into a respirator mask for so long before I'm done. But if it had been temperate? Coulda built it in a day or two. iForge posted:One key element to a proper burn is the length of your burner tube and the angle that it enters the forge. I can forge weld at 5 PSI in my forge that is about the same size as yours. Thank you for the offer; I'll get some pix taken shortly.
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Sep 16, 2014 23:50
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I'm taking a welding class this weekend, I had a lot of fun. Today was a lot of discussion about various metalworking tools (chop saw, grinders, etc) but we also went over oxy-acetylene cutting. Which seems very cool and also a little scary. Hands on welding, I only got to do for about half an hour, but somewhere (this thread, I think) I'd read about how important it is that you can draw a straight bead that looks like overlapping coins. So I just practiced on that, probably did about 30 or so of 'em, and by the end, they were looking pretty consistent and good. Tomorrow, we're supposed to bring in our own projects. I have a few things I think would make a good anvil, once they're assembled correctly, among other projects. So far I'm having fun, and it's kind of amazing to think of all the possibilities now that I can stick any two pieces of steel together in almost any configuration I can imagine.
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Sep 20, 2014 23:17
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Ambrose I'm very jealous. You're right about the breaks being important; I try to work no more than two pieces at a time, because by the third (9th) heat, I'm exhausted. I've been trying to forge all winter, but we've had an epic amount of snow and sometimes it's not even worth the effort to get out to the shop. However, forging in winter is amazing. I don't get all sweaty, and snowballs are perfect for cooling off handles that are heating up. My home made forge still doesn't get hot enough to forge weld, but I'm about to build a new one so hopefully I'll see some improvement. Question - I found a 205 lb Hay Budden anvil on CL. Posting is down, but it looks to be in good shape. Anvil + 100 lb stand : $675; Worth it? Pagan fucked around with this message at 13:17 on Mar 6, 2015 |
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Mar 6, 2015 13:05
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Tamir Lenk posted:Forging in the snow requires the right soundtrack. Not that I look anything like Conan, but I feel like this sometimes. I may be a nerd, but I'm a nerd who forges glowing hot steel in the howling depths of winter. The RECAPITATOR posted:Granted I do not know all that much about anvils, I remember reading that you did not want to pay more than $1.** per pound of anvil. Maybe that's changed though. I thought that too, until a Google search of Hay Budden Anvil turned up things like "Cadillac of anvils" and "best american made anvils of the 1900's." But that's why I'm asking the experts here before I spend the money.
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Mar 6, 2015 22:51
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Slung Blade posted:A dollar per pound was valid in 1997, maybe.   Stand is fabricated steel, all welded together. Anvil is in good shape; looks like someone used a plasma cutter near the back at some point, but otherwise it's in good shape. Getting it out of my SUV was fun, but the guy who sold it said "Think like the Egyptians." A stack of 4x4 scrap lumber and some planks gave us a sturdy inclined plane and that made it surprisingly easy. Once I got it in the garage I fired up my forge for a quick session, and I was in heaven. This was worth every penny. So much space and so much weight, and it sounds great, too. I have a scrap steel that has proven really hard to work (red hard I believe is the term) but I had no problems forging it on this anvil.
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Mar 10, 2015 02:20
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Slung Blade posted:Hmm, looks like someone resurfaced that with hard faced welding rod, there's a bit of a dome on it there. Might just be illusion. I cannot, it looks pretty smooth and even. It is perfectly flat across the top, I think it's just the chipping around the edges that make it looked curved.
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Mar 11, 2015 02:34
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