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Hot drat that is cool looking as hell. A 'vintage' bearing race that has the words 'Thrust Here' would for sure permanently take it's place on my desktop box of odd parts.
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# ¿ Jan 20, 2022 22:26 |
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# ¿ May 12, 2024 21:11 |
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A Proper Uppercut posted:Not sure what thread this would go in, but anyone work with Haas machines? I have a dumb programming question regarding macros/variables and can't seem to figure out the right Google words. I do. I'll answer if I can.
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# ¿ Feb 24, 2022 18:39 |
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A Proper Uppercut posted:Alright, I have a fixture that holds 50 pcs. There are different styles of part that all go on this same fixture, and each style need different part numbers engraved on them. Yeah, that's the way variables work in G-code. You might want to use G65 so you can pass arguments to the sub-program instead of M98 here is a cnccookbook explanation: https://www.cnccookbook.com/m98-m99-g-code-cnc-subprograms/
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# ¿ Feb 24, 2022 21:29 |
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CarForumPoster posted:Welcome, time for CNC! Not necessarily your fault but boy those are some ugly parts. Guessing teachers machines/tooling are clapped out or the steel is harder than mild. Mill and lathe both back cutting, drilled holes have burrs or deformation at edges, scribed lines everywhere but on center of the holes, other weird surface finish stuff and countersink is all chattered. hey it's the exact thoughs going through my head when I'm dropping off/picking up parts at the anodize shop and looking at the all the other stuff that has been dropped off there from other machine shops.
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# ¿ Nov 30, 2022 21:30 |
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On the absolute opposite of the OEE spectrum: I work in the R&D machine shop of a medical device manufacturer and we make prototypes, fixtures for testing prototypes, and replacement parts for the assembly line (replacement grippers and things like that). We have 4 cnc mills, a cnc lathe, and a variety of manual machines, and I don’t think that all 5 cnc’s have ever been powered on in the same day, let alone in use.
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# ¿ Dec 14, 2022 18:15 |
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SkunkDuster posted:My job has me tapping an internal thread on a 304 stainless tube. The wall thickness is oversized, so that will allow me to drill it to the correct size for tapping. The tap is M6 .5mm pitch. I need to know what size pilot hole to drill, but all the tap charts I'm seeing only show M6x1mm and M6x.75mm. Any idea what drill I should use. I have fractional, metric, numbered, and lettered drills. Thanks! Metric threads make figuring out the drill size very easy. Simply subtract the thread pitch from the thread major and you have it. For instance: M5 x 0.8 -> 5.0-0.8=4.2mm M8-1.25=6.75mm (but we use the 6.8mm in the shop) Etc etc. So in your case, the M6x.5 would take a 5.5mm drill. This works on imperial sizes too, but the thread spec is labeled as the inverse (threads per inch, rather than pitch, that is: inches per thread) and the major diameter isn’t marked under the 1/4” sizes. So if you want to know what to drill a 4-40 thread, you look up the #4 size and see it’s major is 0.112”, you take the inverse of 40threads/inch: 1”/40= 0.025”, and then you subtract the pitch from the major: 0.114”-0.025” = 0.089”drill (which is the trusty #43 drill) This method is for cut taps and basically gives you a 75% thread which is good for Aluminum and plastics (we do shitloads of delrin at work). If I’m doing stainless I’ll usually size up one drill size. For forming/roll taps there is a whole other calculation but the real method is: “look it up in the chart”
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# ¿ Jan 17, 2023 17:36 |
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Dance Officer posted:It's a good rule of thumb, but not always true. If you predrill an M2 roll tap with a 1.7mm drill like the rule says you should, it's going to cost you your tap. Yeah, as I mentioned, the ‘Major - Pitch’ formula is for cut threads only. For roll/formed threads, look it up in the Machinery Handbook or your tool supplier’s literature. On threads that small I usually just start the thread with the tap on the CNC and and the go to full depth by hand, but I’m a 100% prototype shop and rarely have to do more than 4 or 5 pieces of each part. If I was doing real production I’d be a lot more fancy about it. shame on an IGA posted:oh they are and it's about that time of year for them to flood our receiving department with unsolicited hardcover catalogs again I’m using a Hoffmann catalog as a spacer under one of my drum machines in my studio setup 😂 tylertfb fucked around with this message at 04:01 on Jan 18, 2023 |
# ¿ Jan 18, 2023 03:56 |
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Does it have to be uninterrupted? Can you make it as a stack of shorter sections (on dowel pins for alignment if necessary)? 4 ~50mm deep holes with that taper is a much easier challenge than the one big one. If the segments are round you can make them screw together and align with a shoulder/bore feature tylertfb fucked around with this message at 23:45 on Feb 7, 2023 |
# ¿ Feb 7, 2023 23:41 |
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Bad Munki posted:
This is on the lathe? The problem with those really long holes is chip removal. If you drill at least some of the bigger ones half way, you’ll give yourself room for chip clearance doing the deeper ones, and the drill point left from the big drill will center(ish) the smaller diameter and long (and thus flexy as hell and wanting to walk) drills. Can you do that small diameter on the nose from the other side, and the flip the piece around?
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# ¿ Feb 8, 2023 20:50 |
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Hadlock posted:Maybe 2 months ago I was asking about milling an LS3 head I worked at a dental company that 3D printed cobalt-chrome and palladium - gold alloy copings (part of the false tooth process) on some 3D printers that worked the same way, but they sintered the layers of powder with a laser. SLM (selective laser melting, I believe) machines. The dudes who worked on the gold-palladium alloy printed machines had to be VERY careful to account for all the powder/parts/clippings. They would get refills of the powder from part of the building that had an armed security guard. I always worked in the CNC half of the company, so I never messed around in there, but those machines were cool.
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# ¿ Feb 21, 2023 04:48 |
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NewFatMike posted:Metal additive manufacturing is loving wild. I’ve played with a few Desktop Metal parts they were always garbage. I kept ties with the dental printing place after I moved on, and had them print the odd part for me that couldn’t be machined (I had to make a pair of grippers for a robot to pick up DIMM chips that needed square inside corners and a wierd lead-in that I couldn’t do with my setup, etc). My riding buddy and erstwhile forum poster Oz Fox made himself a road bike frame from titanium tubes connected by 3D printed titanium lugs /head tube/bottom bracket. It’s ~almost~ straight and only about 2x as expensive as a nice custom welded TI frame would be! I think he had Markforged do it.
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# ¿ Feb 21, 2023 07:02 |
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Karia posted:
What, you don’t run your initial item by loading the program, setting the feed and rapid to 100%, hitting cycle start, and then walking away? Coward.
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# ¿ Feb 26, 2023 04:06 |
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Dance Officer posted:Good news! I used an HSS endmill for the first time today. It went slow as poo poo. I guess it’s not technically metalworking, but HSS endmills are often better on a bunch of plastic applications!
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# ¿ Mar 14, 2023 21:19 |
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Ambrose Burnside posted:I'm maintaining a bunch of well-used 5-axis dental mills that all produce parts with some degree of gouged toolpath along the parting line (the equator-like boundary for the b-axis 'flip'), frequent offset errors on either side of the part (the two flipped sides don't perfectly line up), and bad surface finish on one side of the part (probably from the rotational offset issue causing one side to have a crazy DoC for the 0.3mm tools we finish with) and I'm supposed to "fix it" and. man. I do not have the foundational experience for this. most of my milling experience is on a bridgeport knee mill, not a very lightweight but precise 5-axis cnc job with a closed ecosystem and opaque control/calibration. most of the setup stuff I learned doesn't transfer over at all. i got a tool&die guy who jumped to dental stuff to take a look at our parts and he suggested our rotary axes need replacement, and/or the leadscrews have too much backlash. the rotaries are a nightmare to replace and $3500 a pop, so here's hoping it's the leadscrews. Are these the Roland Mills? Those things are basically 100% wear parts and should be tossed once they start cutting weird if you're doing heavy production. I had the exact same job from 2012-2016. Our shop had 50 Arum 5-axis mills (from korea) for machining zirconia. We also did custom titanium abutments (on really nice Fanuc Robodrills). I was in charge of all the CAM automation and thankfully didn't have to maintain the machines much. Dental machining is a really neat area.
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# ¿ Mar 30, 2023 17:59 |
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CarForumPoster posted:
When I worked at a big aerospace company, we kept an old clapped out hole popper EDM machine around just to burn out broken taps and drills. It was glorious.
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# ¿ Apr 13, 2023 16:48 |
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Karia posted:I'm not sure what you mean by "single flute", I think he was mixing up (single point vs multiple thread ) thread mills with forming/roll taps.
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# ¿ Apr 15, 2023 04:32 |
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honda whisperer posted:Ok yeah. The second link for sure. They have to step out radially then helix up one thread. The single flute has to work it's way up the entire depth of the hole. The other big plus of the single flute is that you can make any pitch with it.
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# ¿ Apr 17, 2023 02:46 |
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Bad Munki posted:I could probably do it poorly in under three hours My boss has a story about a guy he was interviewing for a position years ago who told him “I’m not very good, but I’m slow”. He hired him on the spot and the guy worked for him for 15 years.
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# ¿ Apr 30, 2023 16:00 |
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Making that half-milled gauge is such a pro move, I’m totally stealing that idea.
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# ¿ Jun 1, 2023 17:14 |
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I need to make a part at work that is a little lever that fits in a 1” x 1.5” bounding box, should be 300 series stainless and needs to be .062” +.001/-.003 with a .001 flatness tolerance. I was planning on getting tight tolerance sheets and screwing it down to a machined flat fixture and then contouring it out with tabs (on a CNC mill….I regularly use this technique for flat stuff), but I can’t find any material at that thickness in those tolerances. My normal metal supplier only goes down to 1/8” in the ground ss, same as McMaster. Anywhere else I should look?
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# ¿ Oct 18, 2023 19:58 |
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A Proper Uppercut posted:Places like Dix Metals and TCI supply this kind of stuff to McMaster Carr so you'll see the same thicknesses, however they do make custom plates. Not sure if this is like a one off for you or a production type part, but you could get plates quoted from them. I forgot about TCI, been meaning to see if I can use them here. I need 30 of these things
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# ¿ Oct 18, 2023 22:52 |
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And then you get into forming taps and you’re 100% looking it up from a chart.
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# ¿ Jan 2, 2024 19:18 |
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# ¿ May 12, 2024 21:11 |
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Seconding: O-flute (check the onsrud ones) endmill, high rpms, as heavy a cut your workholding can take, get the chips out of there. Never ever cut any metal with your plastic tools. Stay far far far away from polypropylene.
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# ¿ Mar 15, 2024 22:08 |