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So I'm looking at picking up my first bike and found this on craigslist:quote:1982 Kawasaki LTD-440. 72,995 miles. Black. everything works. Asking $250.00 Call Gary if interested. Would this be a good starter bike? Does anyone have any experience with these bikes? Anything to look for? Edit: Because it's relatively late out here and I don't want to piss off the guy who could potentially be selling me a bike. His rear end is getting a call first thing tomorrow morning. I'm going to head down there, give him the money, and figure out how to get it home after it's mine. vvvvvvvvvvvvvvv Gr3y fucked around with this message at 06:18 on Oct 5, 2008 |
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Oct 5, 2008 05:17
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Z3n posted:He bought it, was terrified, lived through 1k miles of assorted weekend jaunts and trips to the gas station and back, and eventually parked it and forgot about it. That's usually the story that ends up coming out. Or, conversely, their first big close call came up at 1k miles and they hung it up. This seems to be spot on the money. Around here there's at least one posting a week for a low millage sport bike with features like: 123 miles Slight body damage and sometimes Will trade for a sportster. (For those guys who decide because their old fat boy had a 1200cc in it they're more then ready for "some jap bike with half the inches".) And at least once a month: Bike is pristine, my kid bought it, I'm taking it away. In fact there was an '08 R6 up for sale yesterday with less then a 100 miles on it... for 5 grand. Looks like the guy bought it, drove it for about 10 minutes and had a minor lowside (one fairing is scuffed). The thing still had the paper plate you get from the dealer on it. In fact that should be another reason to warn people off the more powerful bikes as their first purchase. If you don't wind up dead you wind up terrified of motorcycles.
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Jan 8, 2009 02:44
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Tsaven Nava posted:. . . Cuz I'm stupid? And it's with the intention of music, not phone. But yeah, it's mostly because I'm a dumb nerd who is all "Oooooo, moar tech = BETTER!". This lining in this thing is removable, it was something else that I really wanted that drove me from the $100 helmets into the $300 helmets. I'm going to go ahead and jump on the "Don't use that helmet for a while band wagon". Think about how crap you will feel if you have a ten mile an hour lowside in your MSF and trash it? Also while the BT would be nice for music you're going to have to crank the poo poo out of it to hear over the wind/road noise. Which is fine for a while, but after a few years of that you and your ears aren't going to be on the best of terms. http://www.motorcyclecloseouts.com/sport/motorcycle+helmets/hjc_cl-sp+osiris+helmet+-+snell+approved Dot/Snell aproved, you can pop the liner out in a bout five seconds, and the face shields pop of and go in like butter. $80. I just grabed one so if I have to use my own helmet during the MSF and trash it, well I'll only be kicking myself for a day or so. Add in a good pair of noise canceling ear phones and you'll be saving cash and have what's probably a better solution. Don't get me wrong, I can't wait for some high tech helmets to start hitting the market. I mean imagine it, a little HUD projecter will give you all your instrumentation on the inside of your face shield, you GPS will be tied in to give you a visual overlay of where your heading, voice activation will allow you to control your phone and music player... It'll be sweet as hell. I'm just willing to wait until it's cheap as hell too.
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Jan 23, 2009 21:55
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Tsaven Nava posted:I'll take all that into consideration this summer. I'm not about to buy a helmet online, though. I have a funny-shaped head, so stuff like this I want to try on before I buy. I went to a cycle gear store near where I live. I got fitted for stuff there, and bought online. I'm going to pick up bits and bobs there just to not feel like a complete rear end in a top hat. If you aren't taking the course until this Summer definitely shop around for killer deals. Going into this I was budgeting about a thousand for gear. So far I'm at: Brand new Teknic jacket $100 Brand new Teknic full length gloves - $35 Helmet - $80 Boots - $70 and the overpants I'm going to pick up are about $115. That means I just saved the first year of my insurance. All of this was bought online, all of it fits great. Once you get a good idea of what you fit into you shouldn't be afraid of buying online, it'll give you a better selection of sizes/brands/options then any of the local stores is likely to have. In fact the place I did all my size checks at would have had to special order me boots, as they didn't carry clown shoe sized.
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Jan 23, 2009 22:25
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Tsaven Nava posted:I could do that, but I've got ethical problems with that, for the obvious reasons. Yeah, the ethical thing is why I'm picking up little things at the Cycle Gear (Socks, leather care products, repair manual, etc.). I'm figuring consistent small purchases should make up me not buying the A*, Dainase, and other brands I can't afford. This may just be part of my clown shoe sized feet (I'm usually a 13 to 14 depending on who makes the shoe), but I had a tough time working the shifter on my dad's sportster in my gently caress off Mack truck steel toes. Between the sole, my foot, and the extra space of the steel plate they were just so drat deep that it was a real pain working through the gears with those. If you can shift comfortably with those boots you linked more power to you. If not jafrum.com has all sorts of boots for reasonable prices. I grabbed a pair of these: http://www.jafrum.com/Motorcycle-Boots/Mens-Motorcycle-Boots/MB2600 and the toe portion is easily an inch and half shorter, which buys me some much needed room. Also for a pair of cheep shoes, the ankle support is pretty good and the construction is way more then I thought I was getting for $50. That site has boots of different styles, sizes, and price points. I don't really know why I keep posting, I guess I just don't want you to dump like $5k into a bike, gear, and training only to decide that you don't really enjoy riding.
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Jan 24, 2009 19:02
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I thought that the difference in power deliver between say... a 600cc I4 and a 650cc v-twin was due to the number of cylinders and therefore the displacement of each cylinder. If you're comparing a 250cc v-twin with a 250cc parallel twin I wouldn't think there would be a whole lot of difference in power development or delivery. But I may be completely wrong.
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Jan 25, 2009 06:23
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8ender posted:I just looked it up and realized the 1200cc Sportster engine only puts out 70hp. How can an engine so big put out so little power My dad's first bike was/is a HD sporster. It was originally an 883cc motor (EVO) which he swaped the 1200cc jugs into. I've tooled around on it a bit in a parking lot, and it really feels like the engine is set up to give a nice reasonable torque curve regardless of where you are in regards to gear/throttle. It's not about to smoke anything but he picked that bike for two reasons: 1. It's a Harley (his ego is too small to take the ribbing from the other guys down at the Elk's lodge for showing up on a bike that didn't come from Milwaukee). 2. It's very forgiving. As long as you aren't asking anything unreasonable from it, it won't put you into a nightmare situation like a sportbike or a road-king can. Grab too much throttle/brake? That's cool, we can work with that. Come in a little to hot or cold on a corner? No prob, mang, we'll get through this. Not a terrible choice for a beginer really, just don't try to keep up with your palls on the sv650 or ex250 in the corners and you'll be fine. That said, it's not the most reliable piece of machinery out there. The EVO has fewer issues then any HD motor in history, but for the amount of riding he did on it, I thought it spent an inordinate amount of time in the shop.
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Jan 26, 2009 19:37
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MrZig posted:I'm looking into getting a motorcycle this spring and I went to a dealership yesterday and was trying on some helmets. Was looking at an "Epic" full-face helmet and a guy came over and said that I can have it for $50 as its one of the last ones left from last years stock. It was regular $199. Thrilled, I bought it to use as a backup/passenger helmet (it was a little big). God I hope not, because I'm picking up my first bike, a 1982 CB750 next weekend. Right after my BRC.
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Feb 1, 2009 21:18
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100 Years in Iraq posted:
I got this exact same bike yesterday. It's my first cycle and seems like it'll be a great machine to learn on. However after the 250s in your MSF it will feel like a boat made out of tanks.
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Feb 10, 2009 18:00
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God-damned Pilates posted:It is important to emphasize how fat the CB750 is. With the 250, you can kind of throw it around like it was a bicycle at slow speed, and it's very forgiving in this way. If you stop paying attention at slower speeds, the CB750 will decide it likes the ground. A lot. Just be sure you're conscious of this at all times and practice counter-leaning in a parking lot before really going at it. The seat is a lot broader than the MSF bikes, and it takes a bit of getting used to if that's your only experience. Actually everything I've read about my bike says that 1982 was the first year for the CB750SC "Nighthawk", at least according to Wikipedia and http://hondanighthawks.net/750.htm. I figured since the bike was in decentish, shape and was offered to me for a $1000, and had some rarity value (only year they did the blue frame plus being the first year Nighthawk) I figured even if I spend another grand over the next year or so getting it in shape I'm ahead of the game. And yeah, this thing is way, way, way heavier then the 250 Nighthawk I rode in the MSF. I could probably bench press that bike if I had to. This thing feels like it would break my leg if it went over at a stop light. Besides eBay and Amazon do you have a good resource for shop manuals for this thing?
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Feb 10, 2009 23:32
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xREED LORD 420x posted:any opinion on this? The old VFR motors are notoriously hard to work on. That said the V45 in that bike has comparable output to the CB750 you posted earlier. The Magna also has a six speed gearbox and looks to be about 50 pounds lighter. Parts are probably going to be harder to come by as well. However I would think that the Magna would probably have a slightly higher resale value, all things being equal. Both bikes are have around ~66 hp, and meet most of the criteria for safe beginner bike. If the 750 didn't I wouldn't have gotten one for myself. Just make sure it is a V45, not a V65, as those bikes were stupid loving fast (for a while some of the fastest production bikes in the world).
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Feb 11, 2009 08:07
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kdc67 posted:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_Magna#.22Specifications.22 If you looked where it was positioned in the VF series of bikes, it very much is the cruiser. The Saber was the standard, the Magna the cruiser, and the Interceptor was the sport bike. Even the v65 Magna was a cruiser. A cruiser that was capable of a reported 186 miles per hour, but still a cruiser. Doesn't mean you can't do suicidally stupid poo poo on it, but it's probably not a terrible choice for a beginner ride.
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Feb 11, 2009 20:26
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Stoic Commie posted:Fair enough. In other news I found this. It's the 1983 one year wonder apparently. I have that bike's big brother (1982 CB750SC). Great bike. The only think I would recommend is as soon as you get it home do the brakes. Two sets of pads for the fronts and new shoes for the back should run less then 80 bucks. I'm doing mine later this week and will post a write up if you're interested.
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Mar 16, 2009 22:35
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Stoic Commie posted:That would help a ton. Is there a problem with Nighthawk brakes or something? Mine just feel really soft and I have no confidence in them, so I'm putting on some organic pads and new shoes. I think this is going to be my rule for any bike I buy that isn't brand spanking new.
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Mar 17, 2009 01:41
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Gnomad posted:If they feel soft, I'd change the brake fluid-a good idea on a yearly basis anyway. New fluid and a good bleed should give you a nice firm lever.New shoes and pads won't hurt at all either. Oh, the feel of the lever is fine. It has a very nice, positive, engagement. The issue is the brakes just don't really feel like they're biting. I'm sure they're serviceable but I had a get off due to my lack of confidence in being able to make an emergency stop (I'm pretty sure the bike would have been capable of what I needed it to do, I just didn't have enough confidence in my equipment to make it.) The new brakes are almost as much of a mental thing for me as a mechanical thing for the bike.
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Mar 17, 2009 04:43
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Gnomad posted:You want bad brakes? I got your bad brakes! Are the drums themselves glazed? I thought the CM400 was a little bike, I would think drums on it would be enough to stop it. But kudos on not unloading it on a beginner. Having no brakes is no god drat fun. You mentioned a disk swap, off hand do you know what's required to convert a rear drum machine to rear brakes? I'm thinking it's just a matter of finding a rear wheel donor with a rotor, fitting calipers to the frame, and maybe swapping in a new MC for the rear (I don't know if my bike has a separate MC for the rear or if it's all run off the one on the bars). But if it's so simple I would assume that everyone would have done it by now. A bad brake story of my own: My first car was my grandpa's '69 Nova. My folks shelled out some decent cash to have the interior redone and a nice paint job on it, but did nothing to it mechanically. It has drums all around but the system is so shot (I'm thinking issues with the MC and all the lines) that I had to bleed it on a daily basis to keep it semi functional. Why they gave a broke rear end high school student (and then broke rear end college student), with only a socket set to his name, a car with no brakes I'll never know. I eventually had to shelve it as it just wasn't safe to tool around a busy college town in. That thing is still in storage and hand to god, when I have a garage of my own it'll be re-restored and have a proper braking system in it. Till then it gets to quietly get a little shittier every year in some rent-a-shed lot.
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Mar 17, 2009 06:56
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Gnomad posted:Depends on the bike, and if there was a version of the bike that used a rear disk. Ahhh. Good to know. I already have a twin rotor setup up front, so unless I start moving into exotic waved or cross drilled set ups there isn't a whole lot for me to do. And if I find myself needing superbike braking on my 27 year old standard I really need to reevaluate what I'm doing.
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Mar 17, 2009 08:01
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Stoic Commie posted:So you don't think the oil leak is a problem then? Oh and it also needs brake pads and rear brake shoes. Is taking off the rear tire and changing the shoes going to make me want to kill myself? My Clymer manual should arrive tomorrow so I'll be able to let you know tomorrow night. My '82 has an ugly rear end oil leak from a bolt on the head, but that's all it is: ugly. It losses about a teaspoon a month and that's about it. As long as it doesn't start leaking oil like an AMF era Harley you shouldn't be too concerned.
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Mar 18, 2009 22:31
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pr0zac posted:All bikes are either cruisers or sportbikes no exceptions. Hey that's my bike! Just way prettier... The first DOHC CB750s are weird because it's clear that Honda had no loving clue with what they were going to do with them. You had a sport variant (the F) the standard (K) and the will-pass-as-a-crusier (SC, aka Nighthawk). The Nighthawks have that rake to the gas tank that looks very cruiserish, but retain the standard seating position. Great bikes that you can find pretty cheap. I used the 250 Nighthawk for my training and I have the 750 for my bike. Honestly it's not bad, but it's much, much heavier then the 250.
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Mar 20, 2009 03:49
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Simkin posted:As has been posted a few times already, hunt down one of these. Were those even sold in the US? Because god drat those are gorgeous bikes.
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Mar 20, 2009 06:37
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:Not to take up your time, but if any other model names for compact UJMs in the 400cc-ish range jump to mind, it'd be great to have those to consider as well. I do like Brit bikes, but they seem both pricier and/or more of a hassle to maintain (though the Ariel and Matchless small models are loving gorgeous). So I figured a good, reliable compact UJM would be a good compromise. Honda built a CB in the 400 range, which aren't that hard to find. Also don't count out the 600-750 cc bikes. They're not too big and pretty common.
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Mar 22, 2009 00:48
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Simkin posted:Maybe in and around California, but certainly around here, if it's running, it starts at CAD$1000 and goes up from there. The last two project bikes that I took on - an 85 VF500F (didn't run, needed divine valvetrain intervention), and an 88 CB450S (nothing wrong, actually, just ugly) - were $850 and $1050 respectively. That's buying in the off-season, as well, so the price on a runner during the TTFA lives in Texas. Over there, and here in Arizona, the riding season lasts roughly from January to December. TTFA: have you thought about changing the rear sprocket on your Nighthawk? Going up a tooth or two will probably give you more top end speed, at the cost of acceleration. You can also look in to re-jetting and a less restrictive exhaust (the 250s have a 2-2 exhaust right?) to see if you can pick up a few more horses. If you want to stay small and cute, there's no reason you can't just try to get a few more Ms per H out of your bike. You may be able to get comfortable highway performance out of it for much less then buying a new bike.
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Mar 22, 2009 07:57
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riding season 
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:Yeh, I hate to sound like a yuppie rear end in a top hat, but I really suck at anything mechanical that's any more complicated than cleaning an M16, or hosing out the carb on a moped. If you can properly disassemble an M16 and put it back together there's probably a fair bit of stuff you can do to your bike. I says this as the AR 180s and 15s I've played around with seem to be about as mechanicly complex as my '82 Nighthawk. I still need to post pictures of the brake work I did on mine last weekend but it was ridicouliously simple. A shop manual, an $8 socket set from Autozone, and about an hour of my time was enough to swap out the front pads. Which I did in the parking lot of my condo. All I need is a little piece of tubing and I can bleed the bastard and start bedding them in proper. Also: If you go for that bike on Ebay, you may want to call the guy and make sure he's cool with hanging onto the bike for another six weeks. Freeing up some floorspace/getting their SO to stop bitching about the drat thing may be as big a reason to sell as the cash.
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Mar 27, 2009 07:49
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Captain Apollo posted:Is it heresy to ask for help buying a new bike? Long hauls... Sporty... Long hauls... Different... VFR 800 ahoy!  It's a sport tourer with a Moto GP pedigree. This is going to be my third or fourth bike, once I've got a few years and a few bikes under my belt. It seems to be a real jack of all trades bike.
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Apr 1, 2009 02:25
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n8r posted:A VFR would be a good option but it doesn't look like they offer the ABS model here in the states. It's probably not worth the effort to try to retrofit it. VFRs have had optional ABS for a while. Even before that became an option they've had linked brakes. Fake edit: ABS became available in 2002, with linked brakes for a while longer than that. I've read reviews from American publications that indicate that we do in fact get that option over here. Speaking of linked brakes: Are there any major downsides to that set up for those of us who aren't racing? I've heard complaints from people who like to go really fast that they don't like the fact that the rear triggers when they grab the front, but I don't see myself ever doing more than "moderately spirited" riding on the street.
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Apr 1, 2009 06:43
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:I'm not sure if I'm being pedantic, other folks are being dumb, or if I'm just not grasping something. The problem is "standard" isn't a term people are familiar with. For 99% of the population a bike is either a cruiser or a sport bike. Is there more chrome then plastic? It's a cruiser. Does it have clip ons? It's a sport bike. It's a binary situation for most people. TapTheForwardAssist posted:EDIT: Question 2: As for avoiding certain model years... that's why you do your homework. Even the best model lines occasionally throw out a turd. Maybe they tried something new that year that didn't work, maybe they changed suppliers and it turned out to be a mistake. Find out where the people who enjoy that model hang out on the internet and start asking questions. They'll usually be pretty honest as everyone likes to share their hobbies/addiction. TapTheForwardAssist posted:EDIT: Question 3: If you want lightweight/manoeuvrable look for a twin. We never got the same selection of small I4s the rest of the world did.
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Apr 2, 2009 05:50
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:Not at all, I liked the 450 from the first it was mentioned, and your post was just more confirmation of that. It seems to be basically just what I'm looking for. My only concern is that a smoking deal shouldn't hang around for a month. I'd be wary of handing him cash to hold it only to find that he left out something important, like it needing "just a little tlc", or "it's just a gasket", or "it will sexually assault your loved ones in their sleep while you can only watch in horror".
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Apr 2, 2009 06:33
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:What's their frame of reference then? All manly-men must ride literbikes, bare minimum, to keep from spontaneously ovulating? Don't confuse displacement with power. My bike is a 750cc and I'd be willing to be a Ninjette would be a fair bit faster then mine in most situations. Warning people away from the 600cc and 1000cc super sports is more a function of how forgiving a bike is to mistakes rather then a big=bad kind of thing. My dad has a 1200cc Harley. You accidentally grab (or chop for that matter) a handful of throttle or go a little hard on the brakes and the bike remains relatively manageable. On, say, and older GSX 1100 R (similar displacement) there's a good chance doing either of those things means your going to rapidly be on one wheel.
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Apr 2, 2009 22:26
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Nerobro posted:The idea is right, the example is wrong. 34hp is 34hp, no matter how you cut it. A ninja 250 will be spanked in almost any situation by your 750. You have more like 70hp, and a bike that doesn't weigh twice as much. on top of having this thing called torque.... Power is power but gearing is gearing. Ninja 250s have a six speed with closer gear ratios then my five speed. Looking at the numbers I'd be faster in the quarter but the Ninjete is catching up by that point. I'd be willing to bet that it would be a straight brawl from 60-100 or so, and after that my bike would have a fair bit more to accelerate. Google says my bike is two seconds faster for 0-60 but only a around a second faster for the 1/4. That means somewhere in there the Ninja is accelerating faster then I am. And that's all straight line stuff, throw a few corners in there and it would eat me alive. And yeah... my dad had a fair amount of work done on his 1200 (it started as an 883) but is only developing about 88 horses at the rear wheel. Those bikes are meant to go slightly over ton up but that's about it.
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Apr 3, 2009 00:30
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Captain Apollo posted:HAY! And if he's anywhere around Phoenix he should check out my CB750... then buy an SV.
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Apr 3, 2009 19:16
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blugu64 posted:I'll do it for half, and stay in cheaper motels. poo poo just noticed this post. Probably too late, and I don't have enough experience to ride that far anyway. If you're still in the Phoenix metro area and want to check out the bike the offer stands. I've sent you an email just now.
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Apr 4, 2009 22:01
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blugu64 posted:All good man, I was booking it hard today. When you're ready for some insane roads, let me know, I found some stupid great roads in arizona.
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Apr 5, 2009 08:04
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Z3n posted:I'd also mention that difficulty and cost goes up if you've got a bike that was less common. It's pretty easy to restore a basket case bike where there were loads of other bikes, spares on ebay, and a big community who knows about the common problems and fixes for the bikes. Not so easy when you've got some oddball one off. This is so true. A mechanic buddy of mine has been bitching about working on "Satan's daily driver", a 1959 Ferrari Spyder California, for the last month. Apparently it's a real bitch to track down parts for a vehicle of which only six were ever built. See if they guy can tell you what the model is, and then start checking parts availability, both online and locally. If you have a good bike salvage yard nearby you may want to start checking the bone piles to see what they have. If you're going to ebay everything you want to be really confident that what your ordering is for your model, year, and any options on your machine. Edit: There should be model information on the frame/motor. If not you may be able to figure it out from the VIN. vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv Gr3y fucked around with this message at 20:46 on Apr 17, 2009 |
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Apr 17, 2009 20:26
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Z3n posted:I'm so angry that I missed the days when Vincents were available for a relatively reasonable price. Maybe now that the economy has crashed prices will come back down and I'll have the chance to one day own one. Ideally, it'll be about 10 years down the road when I have enough money and have damaged my body enough that supersport bikes are no longer appealing. Aren't there still a company or two out there who make the Egli-Vincent bikes? Obviously reproduction, but still using vincent motors and the Egli design.
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Apr 23, 2009 03:28
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Simkin posted:http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/mcy/1135810527.html <- Oh god, don't look at this one, you'll want it for yourself. How the gently caress do you make a bike from 1987 look like that? If I wanted a 250 like that I would have to go out and buy a shiny new one. Does anyone know if an older Ninjete has been done like that? Because that is a stellar looking little bike.
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Apr 23, 2009 16:56
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Z3n posted:It's just a tail conversion and a nice angle. The rest of the bike is still vintage 250. I think there's more to it then just a tail conversion:  Check the shape of the side and front fairings. It' looks like they too have been replaced, as the orginal doesn't have the little creases that make it look like an insect supermodel.
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Apr 23, 2009 18:50
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DiscoKid posted:The hunt for my first bike continues. But that 550 could be a very cool little bike. Should have decent power and be much more nimble then it's bigger brother.
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Apr 24, 2009 02:36
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I'll take it, with the way even semi-decent old bikes in the 1000-1750 range have been snapped up by the time I call, now I get first dibs on what looks to be a real nice bargain.
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Gstu posted:Since completing the MSC in January I've spent a lot of time looking at and thinking about motorcycles. With this (terrible) semester of college winding down, I've been looking more and more attentively, and decided I want to buy my first bike once classes are over. Now, the "what to buy"... Are you based out of Flagstaff or Phoenix? If you are in the valley I suggest checking out Bob's on 16th street. They usually have a few handfuls of bikes for sale at reasonable prices. I'm planing on pulling a Ninjette out of there this summer. Some of their prices on salvaged goods are unreasonable (140 for a new insturment cluster? :didwegetridofthe"awhellnaw!"smilie:) But the staff is pretty helpful and they keep a fair amount of consumables in stock.
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Apr 26, 2009 22:13
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Perfzilla posted:So, I was all set to buy a big, fancy HDTV when I saw this Craigslist ad tonight: I know there's a few people on here with CB/CM 400s, and they seem pretty positive about their machines. I own the bigger cousin of that bike and I'm pretty happy with it (want to move to an actual sportbike as soon as I can, but still pretty happy in the meantime). If you do get it be ready to replace pads, fork oil, and it's coming up on valves if they haven't been done already. Also if you don't know how to ride I would suggest taking the MSF first. At that point you can decide if you actually want a bike. If you don't love it, don't do it, because it's silly to get killed doing something you like. Big honking edit: Don't forget gear. Figure up to a grand for your gear. If you bargain hunt you can do it all for pretty cheap (I did it for a hair over $500 while still getting name brand, quality, equipment) but you absolutely need boots, pants, jacket, glove, and helmet. It makes no sense to protect one part of you just to feed the rest of your body into a meat grinder. Gr3y fucked around with this message at 05:40 on Apr 28, 2009 |
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Apr 28, 2009 05:33
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| # ¿ May 3, 2024 13:35 |
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Entreri posted:http://orlando.craigslist.org/mcy/1143536715.html Seems reasonable for a Ninjette. However... "Plastics a bit rough" + NOS sticker probably means the bike has been down a few times. NOS stickers are like the barb-wire tribal tattoos of the automotive world. I guess their cheaper then a flashing LED panel that says "I'ma douche!", but they're just not as subtle drat it!
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Apr 28, 2009 06:22
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