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I'm brand new to motorcycles and looking to buy a naked bike that rides like a sportsbike, just without the flashy plastic fairing and whatnot. Since I'm new I don't want a ridiculously powerful or expensive bike - I would prefer a used but reliable bike. I like the look of both cafe racers and newer naked sportsbikes, I just have no idea where to begin looking. Looking to spend up to $2,000.
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Nov 5, 2008 16:58
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Haha, why would somebody offer more than the list price for the bike? "Say, that price you're asking for is too low! Would you be willing to take more?" Congratulations on getting the bike, but it sounds like you got walked all over.
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Feb 13, 2009 16:46
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My buddy found a 1983 Honda Magna VF1100 for $600. Electrics work except for rear right blinker. Runs and idles fine. Tires are good. Needs new battery and the wires get hot around the battery/rectifier behind the right side cover. It's also apparent these wires have been crimped or soldered back together. Thoughts? My friend doesn't want to put a ton of money into a cash pit, so is this bike reliable? 36,xxx miles. FuzzyWuzzyBear fucked around with this message at 18:15 on Jun 14, 2009 |
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Jun 14, 2009 18:12
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soy posted:Yeah, if it weren't for my brother in law being good at that kind of poo poo I'd probably just get a car. If you REALLY just want a cheap vehicle for convenience, I'd strongly think about whether a motorcycle is the right choice. Now, this is coming from somebody who absolutely loving loves motorcycles and would rather spend the rest of his life on one than ever touch a car again...but that's kind of the thing. There are so many hassles with commuting on a bike and owning one and doing maintenance that unless you actually wanted a bike other than for pure convenience it'd be tough going. That said, I'm sure that a lot of people start out like you and grow to love riding. I'll reiterate what everybody else has said in that buying a reliable bike and good gear right from the start is very important. Don't be that guy that just buys a helmet and then assumes he'll be alright for now and will "get the rest later."
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Sep 18, 2009 05:50
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Shlomo Palestein posted:They're in entirely different price areas. A CB750 can run anywhere from $800 to $3000 reasonably (though the earlier bikes and pristine examples go for more, but if you cafed one of those I'd probably stab you). A new Thruxton is (last time I checked) closer to $8.5k. You'd have to cafe the CB using gold bars to make it cost that much. Even the used Thruxtons around here (MA) start at $3k shagged. It's not a fair comparison. That's not even taking into account the fact that he wants to upgrade the suspension and other bits on the Thruxton, setting the price even higher. If money is no object, and you want a bike like a Thruxton but sportier, get a Ducati SportClassic 1000S. If you want to spend under 10k but can spend over 5k, get a Thruxton. Under 5k, get a CB750. Ta-da.
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Oct 7, 2009 04:08
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What's everybody's opinion on the mid-90s Honda CB1000F? It looks like a pretty tame naked literbike at 90 something claimed horsepower, which is actually as much as my '83 Yamaha Maxim 750 had. I have a friend that will sell this to me for around $3,000 or a bit less in perfect condition. Is it worth it? I know they're pretty rare in the States but had more of a following in Japan. I really want a bike that will handle well in the corners but am willing to think about bikes like this because 1000cc's of power is fun, too. Edit: Whoops, my Maxim only had 80 something horsepower. FuzzyWuzzyBear fucked around with this message at 16:50 on Nov 15, 2009 |
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Nov 15, 2009 16:47
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Nerobro posted:You're looking at more the difference between say, pentium, and pentium mmx. Holy poo poo, I haven't read or heard the phrase "pentium mmx" since like 1997.
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Dec 5, 2009 00:06
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Oakey posted:Tsaven, are these just random people's bikes you've been sitting on or did you go to a store? I would never recommend buying a bike from a store but they're great for getting a really good idea of what fits you well. Just curious, aside from bikes being more expensive from a dealer, what's so bad about getting a bike from them? At least you can be confident that it's not a piece of poo poo that will die in 500 miles.
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Dec 29, 2009 00:35
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Overpriced Balloons posted:But, if I can get something I like and will enjoy owning, why wouldn't I? Do you have garage space to work on your motorcycle? If not, getting a bike made before 1990 may be a gamble, especially because, at least in Connecticut, a lot of bike shops won't work on 80's bikes. Also, you won't need to spend anywhere near $5,000 for a used older bike. More like between $1,000 and $1,500, depending on the bike and the condition of it.
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Jan 2, 2010 03:56
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How much should I expect to spend on a mid-90's sportbike like a GSXR-750 or a CBR600 in good condition (i.e. requiring nothing to be roadworthy). If it makes a difference I live in CT and will be buying at the end of February/beginning of March. I realize that they may not be the most comfortable option for an everyday bike but I feel like I won't be satisfied until I get the chance to ride a legitimately-sporty bike, in contrast to the standards and such I've had until now.
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Jan 23, 2010 21:09
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geometree posted:I'm a girl. And the bike I linked to, according to the shop that's selling it, is mostly new I think. "Absolutely everything on this bike has been replaced by something new, besides the frame and crankcases" says Austin Mopeds. If you follow the link, it's actually a pretty rad rebuilding. I just want to make sure I'm not getting ripped pricewise if that's the route I go. The scooters linked are definitely not cumbersome. They're small and light and ideal for light city travel. Not fast enough for highways or anything over 40, really. The Puch is a scooter, just with a frame that isn't "step-through." If you actually want a motorcycle, and you want something that looks sporty, you can't go wrong with a Ninja 250. Or an older '80s bike that you can put cafe bars on to achieve a similar look to that Puch scooter. I don't think that Puch is a great idea unless you're good with mechanical stuff because that is a highly-modded one that is old and running at way higher-performance than originally intended, so it'll probably be unreliable at best. Anything built for a racetrack is not going to be great for commuting. If you like the vintage look, I'd go for an 80s bike around 250cc and put cafe bars on it, and you have a sweet little cafe racer that will be fine for a new rider, if a bit uncomfortable. FuzzyWuzzyBear fucked around with this message at 04:20 on Jan 25, 2010 |
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Jan 25, 2010 04:17
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geometree posted:That's a good point about the mechanics, I hadn't considered that. I have zero experience with things mechanical aside from my bicycle and was hoping to learn how to do some basic repairs myself, but messing around with a modded bike is probably not the best place to start. Not to mention it's kind of a specialty machine that is overpriced for what it can do. You could literally spend a fraction of that on a machine that can do so much more.
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Jan 25, 2010 04:26
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Nerobro posted:MOST mopeds are actually a bit less useful than scooters. Mopeds generally are single speed machines. Scooters usually have a CVT, and therefore are a good bit quicker for a given engine size. Because sometimes people enjoy riding bikes that look awesome, and cafe'd bikes look awesome. That Puch looks cafe'd and I didn't know if that's what she was going for. Nobody ever accused cafe racers of being ergonomic, but dammit they look badass. Since when was sensibility ever part of riding anyway? 
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Jan 25, 2010 22:14
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So I finally pulled the trigger on a bike. 1994 CBR600 F2, 9,000 miles, well-maintained. Fairings have been painted flat black and it has a D&D exhaust. New Michelin tires, brakes, and fluids. Also has frame sliders. No damage. $1500, did I do good? What should I know about the bike?
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Jan 30, 2010 00:45
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Psylocibe posted:I saw this bike for $800 OBO, dude said bring cash and see what happens. i'm getting my tax return soon and was toying with the idea of offering 500 bucks cash and see what they say. I had a bunch of my rider buddies say this would be a decent learner, but then I went and looked up the specs for the V4 and it seems like it might be a little too powerful? What's the consensus? i thought it looked pretty nice for less than a grand. Looks like it definitely needs new tires, so add that to your budget. Looks like the clutch lever is broken, as well?
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Feb 11, 2010 16:59
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Tsaven Nava posted:Yeah, my helmet is a flip-face, so I'll usually flip it up and take off the gloves. If I'm inside for a period of time I'll probably take the helmet off. I personally think color-matching your gear with your bike looks a little goofy unless your bike is white or black. I do love me a flat black bike with all black gear, though. Or a white bike with black gear, or vice versa. Hell, black gear looks good with everything.
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Feb 19, 2010 17:21
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Doctor Zero posted:
Unless you live in Connecticut which allows you to register bikes 1981 or older with no title, just a bill of sale. Finally, something good about my state.
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Feb 25, 2010 18:14
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DO NOT BUY A BIKE WITHOUT A TITLE
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Lathe Operator posted:http://halifax.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-motorcycles-sport-bikes-750K-W0QQAdIdZ188094210 1800 is a bit too much - that kind of price is reserved for CB's in pristine condition and stock, of which that is neither. And I wouldn't pay much more for the "cafe" work done to it seeing as it looks like the guy only did bars and an aftermarket pipe. If the bike works and everything on it checks out, I'd say between 700-1200, depending on how good your negotiation skills are, how desperate he is, and what the local market is like. Read the Used Bike Evaluation Guide (http://www.clarity.net/~adam/buying-bike.html) if you haven't, yet. Also, the CB750 is a pretty heavy first bike. It's also on the upper-end of power for a newb. If you've got a good head on your shoulders the power should be manageable for you, but make sure you know what you're getting into with a heavier bike like that. The big things I'd look for in an old bike like that are to ask the seller questions about maintenance to gauge how well he took care of the bike, and I'd carefully look at the tires and current fluids. Edit: Oh this is Canada. I'm not 100% sure on what the market value is in your moon money, so I guess add a small amount to my estimates? FuzzyWuzzyBear fucked around with this message at 02:42 on Mar 19, 2010 |
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Mar 19, 2010 02:38
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Jabs posted:Where? Seriously, dude?
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Mar 22, 2010 19:27
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My buddy had an '85 VFR1000 back when they were considered sportbikes and not sport-tourers. I liked it, it was really big, though - I could barely get a toe down and I'm 5'9". The only newer VFR I like is the 2007 Anniversary edition, that poo poo is hot.
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Apr 2, 2010 17:18
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The Wonder Weapon posted:http://buffalo.craigslist.org/mcy/1679175045.html I bought a 1994 CBR600 for $1500 with 10k miles, but with a couple issues, back in February. I think $1500 would be a reasonable price for that bike, definitely not over $2000. Sweet purple seat.
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Apr 6, 2010 20:44
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ButtFaceMcCrackin posted:Just saw this 87 ninja ex500 posted on the craiglist in my area. I feel like the windscreen would be a minor fix but this would be my first bike and I have no idea about repairing carbs. Anybody have any experience with the carbs on older ninjas? No experience with those carbs in particular, but I don't get why people just throw away bikes if it really is as simple as simply installing the carb rebuild kit they already bought. They went through the trouble of replacing the filter, plugs, oil, etc., so why not finish the job?
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Apr 14, 2010 19:10
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Tsaven Nava posted:$1500 for a farkled but well-used KLR650 + three-month-long road trip. This guy has the right idea. Clapped out 90's sportbike and a year's worth of trackdays.
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Apr 23, 2010 14:42
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SV's are great starter bikes if you respect the power they have. At 60hp, they're at the upper end of what a new rider should have, but if you're responsible with it you'll be okay. I wouldn't spend more than $3000 or so on a first bike because you will drop it and you will feel terrible. Get whatever's cheaper and remember that on Craigslist, it's almost expected that you barter down. Not sure what the bike market is like in your area but I'm confident that I could barter down either of those bikes to around 2700 at least.
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Apr 29, 2010 03:24
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What's everybody's opinion on the Ninja 650R? My dad bought a 2009 after 30 years of not riding. I rode it home for him and thought it was quite upright, especially for the sporty looks of it, but it handled gracefully and seemed well-sorted out. That said, it still seems a bit of a budget machine, with non-adjustable forks and limited adjust on the rear shock. Even my 1994 CBR is more tune-able. But hey, I shouldn't hate. The thing starts right up, is nice and quiet, and actually blocks wind from your head. All things my bike does not do.
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May 4, 2010 03:47
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Maybe the guy is stupid and got a ridiculous insurance quote and assumed that was standard for newer bikes. There is no super-expensive liability with owning an SV.
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May 4, 2010 04:01
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Typik posted:I'm actually new to motorcycles. Looking to buy a sport bike but don't have the money to "Start" at 250 and slowly upgrade as I get better, but like most I also don't want some super fast death machine. Of course you have the money to start on a smaller bike and upgrade, silly. Here's how it works. Take MSF class, get license and appropriate gear (helmet, jacket, gloves, boots, and pants). Buy Ninja 250 or some other less-powerful bike on Craigslist for around $1500. After a year of riding, flip the 250 for....$1500 and buy a better bike. IT'S MAGIC Also, I wouldn't classify Ninja 500s or Ninja 650Rs as "sportbikes," since the seating position is so upright and they're not exactly made for racing. That said, Ninja 500s or Ninja 650Rs make acceptable beginner bikes if you're mature enough to handle the power. Other good ones to look at (if you're on a budget) are older UJMs from the '80s. Another bike that's comparable to the Ninja 650R (and a forum favorite) is the SV650, which is also a twin cylinder boasting around 60 something horsepower, right at the upper limit for a noob. FuzzyWuzzyBear fucked around with this message at 16:14 on May 8, 2010 |
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May 8, 2010 16:09
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For a beginner, no, there's no big difference between the bikes. They will all feel fast to you, they will all do pretty much anything you need them to, and they will all be quite a bit faster than you are as a rider for a couple years at least.
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May 8, 2010 16:18
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Depending on the year, you should be able to talk the seller down to $2,000 or maybe $1,800 if it needs some stuff. When buying a bike, try to have a friend that knows his poo poo or at least read this: http://www.clarity.net/~adam/buying-bike.html Common stuff that needs replacing on used bikes: -Tires -Brake fluid -Oil and oil filter -Chain and sprockets -Brake pads -Battery If those items check out, you can confidently pay $2,000 or so for the bike and know you got a reliable machine. If some of those things need replacing, reduce asking price accordingly.
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May 8, 2010 16:25
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Well, it's been down and it has gay underbody LEDs but if there's no other crash damage and the consumables listed above look good, I'd say somewhere in the range of 2,500 is a good price. And by the way, that's the SV650 "S" version which has lower bars and more rearset pegs for a sporty riding position. The standard SV650 is a bit more upright and with no fairing, but there's no big difference between the two, it's up to preference.
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May 8, 2010 16:26
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It is probably not a big deal. Any drop, even a stationary one in a driveway, could result in cracking plastic fairings. He doesn't say how the drop occurred so it was probably while moving (be cynical when it comes to Craigslist  ) but if there's nothing else bent such as pedals, handlebars, and if you look down the length of the bike and everything appears straight, you're good to go. You can even ask him to ride it and have him take his hands off the bars to see if it rides straight.For the chain, just push up on the middle of the bottom length of it - it should move about an inch upwards. Make sure there's not any rust on it. Tires, observe for any cracks or if it looks extremely squared off or worn down. Treads should be a decent depth. Squeeze the brake lever - it should firmly resist after a bit of travel. If it goes all the way to the handlebar it needs new fluid. Twist the throttle and ensure that is travels smoothly and firmly snaps back to neutral. Sit on the bike and push down on the front and sit heavily on the rear to see how the shocks react. I think that's everything, phew. Oh, insist that the bike be cold when you look at it so you can see it start cold. A lot of problems go away once a bike is warm.
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May 8, 2010 16:41
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Rontalvos posted:I am so tempted to buy this purely because it may be the prettiest thing I've ever seen. Same bike I have. Asking price is decent, although to really see the condition you'll need to take the fairings off. 1994 is the model year you want, for sure. It comes with fully-adjustable front and rear suspension (including cartridge-style forks). The bike itself is very comfortable. The clip-ons mount above the triple tree and offer more upright ergos than most modern sportbikes. The pegs are comfortable but on the other hand are also fairly low for a sportbike - I switched mine out with Woodcraft rearsets and it helped me get my knees all the way up to the tank easier and provided more ground clearance. I would definitely be confident buying that with the no-bullshit ad and the clear pictures taken by the owner.
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May 11, 2010 16:51
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Z3n posted:No, no, no, and no. I've put a bunch of miles on a couple different bar setups: Cruiser-style bars on a Yamaha Maxim Low clip-ons on a Kawasaki ZX7-R Cafe bars on a Honda CM250 "Normal" handlebars on a Kawasaki Ninja 650R High clip-ons on a Honda CBR600F2 I think my favorite set-up for the street would be the clip-ons mounted above my triple tree on the CBR. It lets me tuck down if I want to, ride fairly upright if I want to, and is still easy to do slow-speed crap as well as high-speed cornering. That said, I've always been a sport-oriented rider and even with cruiser bars I was constantly trying to tuck in more. Easily the most uncomfortable setup was the Maxim's cruiser bars. I swapped those fuckers out for superbike bars almost immediately. Terrible control, made my wrists hurt, and forced you sit stock upright and take that wind right in the chest, all day long.
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Jun 8, 2010 20:43
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That is a tricky combination, because to be a beginner's bike it has to be pretty small and cheap, and but also big enough to be comfortable on a highway for your requirements, as well as take offroad. I'd say get something as light as you can like a Ninja 250 and it will probably do well enough in easy trails if that's all you want. More dirt-oriented bikes include the TW200 and DRZ400, but they're not great for highway, and the DRZ isn't particularly cheap. Ask Tsaven what happens when you take a streetbike onto aggressive trails.
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Jun 14, 2010 02:22
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Moonbloodsflow posted:Wants to get bike. You should be signing up for MSF yesterday to get your license and then worry about picking up a bike. With that said, even the KLR isn't great on the highway but I think it's the best option out of the ones you've listed because it's cheap, parts are cheap and plentiful, and it'll handle a variety of surfaces adequately.
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Jun 25, 2010 00:32
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Triumph Bonnevilles are right at the upper limit for power for a noob (60ish horsepower) and are a tad heavy for one as well at 450lb. I would say it would make an okay beginner bike but there are cheaper, better options that you can learn on and then get the Bonneville once you get all your stupid rookie drops out of the way. We've endlessly discussed this topic on various threads so look around for what we recommend for new riders.
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Jun 29, 2010 16:06
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You can also consider the Speed Triple, which is the literbike brother of the Street. It boasts better suspension and brakes, along with obviously more torque and power, at the cost of a higher MSRP and slightly less flickability. As has been said before, there's also the Buell line for naked sportbikes. And you also have the Z1000, which compared very well with the Speed Triple in road tests. If you have lots of cash to burn there's also the Ducati Streetfighter.
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Jul 7, 2010 04:15
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I'm really thinking my ideal bike setup is having a Speed Triple as a streetbike/daily ride, my current F2 as a trackwhore, and a DRZ400SM for the weekends.
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Jul 17, 2010 06:24
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No doubt my F2 is comfy...for a sportbike. A FuzzyWuzzyBear fucked around with this message at 06:33 on Jul 17, 2010 |
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Jul 17, 2010 06:30
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| # ¿ May 4, 2024 19:06 |
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2ndclasscitizen posted:A Speed Triple isn't a streetfighter. Uh, yeah it is. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Triumph_Speed_Triple Sportbike with handlebars and no fairings. Yes, technically streetfighters are faired sportbikes that have them removed, but it's a factory streetfighter. Edit: Also http://www.fasterandfaster.net/2006/07/triumph-speed-triple-mean-mutha.html and http://www.motorcycle.com/shoot-outs/2009-streetfighters-shootout-aprilia-tuono-1000-r-buell-1125cr-triumph-speed-triple-87798.html FuzzyWuzzyBear fucked around with this message at 04:12 on Jul 18, 2010 |
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Jul 18, 2010 04:10
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