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He says weak spark, that means there is signal for spark. That means it's not the signal generator. His ignitor is toast. They're $50-120 on ebay. They're stupidly simple to replace. They have a big plug on them. Two screws hold it down. undo the two screws, undo the connector, reverse steps with new ignitor. Neroboro posted:I still has weak, weak spark.
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Mar 1, 2009 01:29
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| # ¿ May 16, 2024 11:55 |
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It's a good price. But it's a wildly bad idea. Maintenance cycles on the high end 450's are measured in hours. Hours you can count on your hands. And you NEED to keep on top of it. Same with checking and adjusting the valves. Price out what a top end rebuild costs on a motor like that... I wonder if that's why it's so cheap.
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Mar 4, 2009 21:29
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Bugdrvr posted:After reading the Moped thread I really want one. I live close to my job so it would actually be a useful form of transportation. I found this on Craigslist today http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/mcy/1064604294.html How are these 'peds? Can a kit be thrown upon this?
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Mar 8, 2009 21:26
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If you want a moped, you want to look for peugeots, motobecanes, tomos, and puch. Puches have an aftermarket that will make your head spin. Tomos's have two speed transmissions, which can make them pretty quick. Peugeots have a CVT, as do Motobecanes.
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Mar 8, 2009 23:52
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I'll bet the bike is on a large part fine. The fairing's going to be rashed. Getting a key will cost $70-90. Forks will run you anywhere from $100-400. Depending on if you go with used, new, or just replacement fork tubes. Labor for replacement will be in the $1-200 range. You're looking at at least $100 for other misc bits. I'd first check to see if he has the title in hand. I could not recommend you buying it. I would buy it, for $300. I think I could get it to sale able condition for $2-300. But I do my own wrench turning.
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Mar 16, 2009 18:17
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Maybe I wasn't clear enough. No, don't do it. Even if the bike is with title, this will be a large project.
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Mar 16, 2009 19:25
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Gr3y posted:Ahhh. Good to know. I already have a twin rotor setup up front, so unless I start moving into exotic waved or cross drilled set ups there isn't a whole lot for me to do. And if I find myself needing superbike braking on my 27 year old standard I really need to reevaluate what I'm doing. Wave rotors are just neat. They aren't a braking advantage. Drilled holes, or cut groves provide the same feel as wave rotors. They're lighter, which improves steering. Having better braking is always an advantage. That's why I'm running a large diameter rotors, drilled rotors, big piston calipers, stainless steel braided lines, and a small piston master cylinder. After having brake fade coming down from 80mph, I will never risk that again.
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Mar 17, 2009 14:29
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CoolBlue posted:Well this isn't entirely true... They'd have to heat up faster. There's less mass, and the same amount of energy is being put into the disks. That will make the rotor will heat up and reach equilibrium faster. I could see that giving a more consistent feel. They also have a great many leading edges. Each leading edge provides more bite. Their surface to mass ratio isn't significantly different from even a undrilled disk. I wonder if fade with wave rotors hits more sharply than with solid disks. It would make sense that once you exceeded the heat rejection capacity of the disk, it's temperature would climb faster than a solid disk.
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Mar 17, 2009 15:27
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It will do 110mph. I think that qualifies as just fine for the open road. http://www.suzukicycles.org/GT-series/GT250.shtml The asking price seems reasonable. I'd be looking to pay 800 for that rather than $1000.
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Mar 18, 2009 16:49
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the leak is likely nothing. Changing shoes and pads isn't hard.
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Mar 18, 2009 22:29
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pr0zac posted:The 750 has 75hp new and cruiser geometry. TapTheForwardAssist posted:Has anyone transitioned from a Nighthawk Honda CB250 to the CB750? There's lots of bikes that will do what you want. If you want power, there's a lot of ways to get it. I'm going to push GS's. Though the SecaII would be good to look for. Bandit 600. And even the CB750. How much of a struggle is it to get up hills for you? What's your desired cruising speed? Top speed? I like to point at bikes with about 50hp, becuase that will get you to 90-100mph in good time, and top out in the 110-120 range. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 03:24 on Mar 20, 2009 |
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Mar 20, 2009 03:16
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:That's actually a really cool suggestion: I've had three of those in my garage at once. Right now I have a 1977 GS400X, a 1979 GS425E in there. Not so long ago there was a 1980 GS450L as well. I paid less than $100 for all three.  They're out there. And they're not that hard to find. Sadly, I did have to drive 3 hours to pick up that one. Gr3y posted:Honda built a CB in the 400 range, which aren't that hard to find. Also don't count out the 600-750 cc bikes. They're not too big and pretty common. TapTheForwardAssist posted:The XS400 looks great, and I'm not totally averse to spending a few hundred on wiring if that's the main problem, though the GS400 series seems great too. Bottom line, as long as it's nakedish, cute, and not too hard to maintain I'm pretty inclined. Ariel and Matchless have become rare(r) collectors items Gnomad posted:Quite a few early 80's Hondas were jetted lean. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 07:08 on Mar 22, 2009 |
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Mar 22, 2009 06:59
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Thanks for calling me out on that one KDC.... Being realistic, any solid bike is going to run you $600-1000. No matter which bike we're talking about. I'll admit to getting lucky on my GS's. That said, the $99 gs425 did run within hours of getting it home. I doubt you'll find a CB400. Honda mostly made 450's. but a CB360, 400, 450... all good bikes. And don't limit yourself to cb's. There's also a CMX450 (that's a rebel 450..) And others. I don't know much about it, but I hear the KZ440 is good too. You'll need to do some digging on your own to find that out for sure. If you want a hot rear end little bike, try to find a CB400-4. Are you stuck on 4 strokes? A GT185, or GT250 would both suit the bill for what you're doing. And they're good looking bikes. I'm trying to think of other little bikes that are fun. If you don't mind ditching the UJM thing, and you just want a good bike for making quick blasts up the highway to get downtown, I don't see why you shouldn't look at big 2 stroke enduros. A same era DT250 or 360 would do nicely. Lacking any valvetrain, they're even simpler to maintain. Maybe a PE250? Since I think style is something you're considering, you may well just ignore this last paragraph.
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Mar 22, 2009 07:18
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:However, I'd be a bit concerned about taking a bike that light (245lbs) onto the highways. My Nighthawk is slightly heavier (270lbs) and a heavy wind really puts some lean on it when I get up to 60mph.
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Mar 22, 2009 21:04
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Yes, a GS500 can do that. Depends on what you call trail though. I've done miles upon miles of gravel on my GS550, which is a pure road bike. If you're just thinking fire roads, I'd even go at it with a sportbike. If you want to do touring, I'd point at a KLR. Or F650. Or DR650. Or KTM690/640. Or really any big thumper that comes with dirt sized wheels. Be prepared to lower it a bit.
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Mar 23, 2009 08:34
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DiscoKid posted:Is $1150 for a 78 GS 1000 a reasonable asking price? 63,000 miles isn't a lot of miles for a GS. Not even ballpark "a lot." I got my 1980 GS550E with 60k+ on it, and it didn't even need swingarm or wheel bearings yet. A GS1000 has roughly 90hp. And torque like you wouldn't believe. That's also a highly desirable "skunk" GS. The black with white side stripes is uncommon, and somewhat collectible. The seat is called a "king-queen" seat. Find a stock seat, they go for $40-80 on ebay. A grand is about right for that bike. Especially with the new ignition system on it.
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Mar 26, 2009 01:38
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Ola posted:Welcome to the fold. First off, BassCliff is awesome. I got to hang out with him this summer. Seconding the carb answer. Also, you can check the boot on your coil. spark plug boots go bad sometimes. The carbs are most likely though. I love seeing new people with GS's
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Mar 27, 2009 00:24
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:Two quick UJM questions: quote:2) I've seen some UJMs that seem much smaller in frame than others (GS400?). But I vaguely think I've seen 400s that are just as big as 550s as well. Is there any way to tell, short of looking at the bike in person, which UJMs are more compact? The XS400, for example, when I saw it in person looked almost closer in size to a Honda Rebel more than my CB250 Nighthawk, despite having more than twice the hp of a Rebel. TapTheForwardAssist posted:GS450L  Yes, bid on it you fool. That one I sold last spring for $871, without title. $2k is high given the paint condition. I'd go $1000-1100. TapTheForwardAssist posted:I don't know if it's CA heresy to admit this, but I'm mostly interested in riding the drat thing, and not too fascinated by maintenance above and beyond fueling, oiling, and inflating the critter. Z3n posted:You'll notice that that's the key difference between how me and Nero approach bikes. He wants to understand how it works, tear it apart to make it better, etc., I just want to make the loving thing run so I can ride it. Thusly my lack of understanding on a lot of the theory fronts. I don't care, just make it work. Rewinding stators? gently caress that, couldn't pay me enough to do that poo poo. A side note from last nights ride. Leather does absolutely nothing to keep you warm. 35 degrees....
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Mar 27, 2009 17:17
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Simkin posted:Oh, look, it's a GS450. I wonder if you can still find parts for that...
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Mar 27, 2009 20:58
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Simkin posted:Oh, come on Nerobro, don't tell me that your sarcasm detector is that broken. MrZig posted:In all seriousness, GSR rocks. I reposted a couple threads on stuff I wasn't 100% sure of in my own thread here just to get some different answers from some other people familiar with the bike (I trust you guys I swear!) and they've usually been really helpful. That's where I learned all my stuff. My entire foothold in motorcycles was due to people on that forum. FirstTimer, EarlFor, JoeNardy... They showed me the ropes. I'm yet to meet someone from the forum that gives me the willies. TapTheForwardAssist posted:EDIT: Alternately I could keep my motorbike plain UJM, and just cafe-up the moped I intend to buy: First off, UJM is an insulting term for a Japanese standard. EVERYTHING was a standard if you go back far enough. To take a Japanese bike and make it into a cafe racer is 100% kosher. To take a Japanese standard and make it a chopper is just as kosher. UJM is just to specific for what you're trying to say. Second, that cafe job done to the moped is terrible. Get clip ons, or cafe bars. Don't half rear end it by turning a standard set of bars upside down. When you see stuff like that you're bound to find things like bubble gum wrappers in the fuse holder. You're better than that. DiscoKid posted:GS1000, first bike... collectable bike... I'm not saying you suck. But you will screw up. You will hurt the bike, and yourself. http://appleton.craigslist.org/mcy/1075430974.html This is a GS550L. But hte owner put on less obnoxious handlebars. 49hp, 110mph.... It's very close to what I learned on. It's also only 480lbs, instead of 630.
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Mar 28, 2009 08:11
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Yes. And yes. They're the same motor. The GS1000/1100 bottom end is still the basis of many drag bikes.
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Mar 28, 2009 08:49
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Simkin posted:Funny, you'd think newer, larger displacement engines would have superseded them by now. Is it just that they're a known quantity, or are they still pretty much the most solid engine to build power out of? The cranks are virtually indestructible. The gearboxes need just minor undercutting to handle whatever power levels you want. The clutches are big enough for a small car. The crankcases don't fail unless a rod breaks. The Hayabusa is on the same level, strength wise. Most newer bikes have TINY clutches. Just big enough to handle stock power. They have gears designed to be JUST strong enough. They have crank spacing JUST wide enough to accomadate the stock pistons. All of that makes for smaller, lighter motors. Basicly, the GS1000/1100/1150 bottom ends have lots of room to gently caress around. They're wildly overbuilt. They're strong. They're big. They're heavy. And they're easy to work on.
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Mar 29, 2009 02:17
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Simkin posted:Wouldn't it just be easier to try to swap in a much larger displacement engine, and then build power from that? Turbo goldwing motor in a small frame?
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Mar 29, 2009 09:14
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it's a GS500, all square tube frame GS twins were, and are 500's. That in particular is a GS500E.
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Mar 30, 2009 06:02
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It's not "that" hard. It's not needed though. The bikes handle cooking in traffic without the oil cooler just fine. they got the oil coolers when they got fairings. Fairings and air cooled bikes don't like to play nice. Pro-tip, don't install a 2005+ GS500 motor into a pre-2005 frame without the oil cooler. ALL oil in the motor is routed through the cooler, by blocked off passages in the crankcase. Doing so will lead to spun bearings...
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Mar 30, 2009 14:15
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I don't see why an oil cooler would be needed drag racing. There are kits available. But there's two nice places to drill and tap the crankcase on either side of the oil filter which will do nicely for an oil cooler. other solutions tend to work around the oil pressure sender.
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Mar 30, 2009 14:41
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:Okay, still kinda kicking myself on that GS450 for $1800, but I still have 6 weeks until I move to DC to find a bike there, or I can just use my car for a month or two until I find a decent bike. Because it says GS, doesn't mean it's a "gs" BMW and Maico have made GS's. The Maico 440 is a great bike, but not what you want ;-) The GS425 is the GS for 1979. Yes, it's worth looking for 425's. The GS500 didn't get a fairing until 2004-2005. All GS500's are "sporty" bikes with the rectangular tube frames. If I had to make a choice of whatever GS twin I wanted.. I'd go for a GS425. They've got the classic body style, and a bigger motor.
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Mar 31, 2009 01:25
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Great bike. Most likely asking to much money. The GL1000 was the sport tourer of it's day.
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Mar 31, 2009 05:13
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:Okay, so still looking at small-frame UJM twins. How is this? Also, on the cruiser/standard/sportbike thing. Most people know jack poo poo about motorcycles. It's just the same with bicycles. Ask someone what sort of bike they have, and they'll tell you a: the color, or b: the brand. If you're really lucky they'll tell you it's "uh.. 750 cc I think." And there's no year that the Japanese were making lovely bikes. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 06:11 on Apr 2, 2009 |
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Apr 2, 2009 06:05
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:Not at all, I liked the 450 from the first it was mentioned, and your post was just more confirmation of that. It seems to be basically just what I'm looking for. Yes, swapping bars is easy. I do it to every bike i buy. It's step one to making the bike fit you.
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Apr 2, 2009 07:18
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Uh.... Mostly no. The top green line does indicate the valve cover gasket. The red line indicates the base gasket, not the headgasket. The bottom green line doesn't indicate anything clearly, but in that area are the oil pan gasket, and clutch cover gasket . Both are rare leaks on any bike. Base gasket leaks aren't that uncommon. But theyr'e also something that doesn't NEED to be fixed. Depending on severity it might just be a little bit of oil weeping. A headgaskets don't exactly leak frequently on an air cooled bike. That also said, replacing the valve cover gasket, and headgasket could be done in three or four hours by someone who's turned any wrenches before. The base gasket takes a little more time because you need to pull the block off the crankcase. Even that isn't a serious ordeal. All of this work can be done in bike, with the motor still installed.
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Apr 2, 2009 12:35
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Gr3y posted:Don't confuse displacement with power. My bike is a 750cc and I'd be willing to be a Ninjette would be a fair bit faster then mine in most situations. Now if you wanna have some real fun, look up the stats on a NSR250, or RGV250 or a RS250, and compare those to your 750 :-) quote:My dad has a 1200cc Harley. You accidentally grab (or chop for that matter) a handful of throttle or go a little hard on the brakes and the bike remains relatively manageable. On, say, and older GSX 1100 R (similar displacement) there's a good chance doing either of those things means your going to rapidly be on one wheel. My favorite example is comparing a Harley 1200cc motor and a ZX12 motor. 70hp versus 190hp.
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Apr 2, 2009 23:04
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:Not to be a dick, or a clueless noob, but I'm unclear as to what one actually does with more than the 40hp a G450 puts out. Captain Apollo posted:1200cc harley and 1200cc zx12 = completely different in hp. 8ender posted:The most interesting is the Goldwing vs. the Ninja because they're so close. The Goldwing has a stout engine but is hampered by its weight. This is course doesn't take into account gear ratios and such but these numbers are pretty close to reality. The Ninja can easily keep up with the Goldwing even when its going balls out. Power to weight is funny. It tells you a lot from say.. 30-60mph. But as you end up going faster, power and aerodynamics takes over. The ninja and goldwing would likely be neck and neck 20-60mph. The Goldwings greater power will take over as speeds get higher. The Lotus Elise sprints from 0-60 in no time at all, because it's power to weight is great. It's top speed blows due to it's total power output being so low in comparison to it's "competition." Cars and bikes at Bonneville carry ballast. They frequently have crap power to weight ratios. But total power, and total drag are what matters for top speed.
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Apr 3, 2009 14:21
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That's the thing. Even with 63hp, my GS550 is to easy to ride well outside the legal limits when going "balls to the wall." The moped I can race, and ride at the very edges anytime I like, and not fear prosecution.
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Apr 3, 2009 20:29
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pr0zac posted:I know this has been asked before but I've never really paid attention to the answer, how annoying is buying a bike where the owner doesn't have a title. As long as the bike isnt' stolen. it's a $140 fix. figure that into the cost.
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Apr 6, 2009 15:06
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If i'm really lucky... I'm trading this:  A 1986 GS550ES, with title. Not currently running. For this:  A 1973 Yamaha AT3, 125cc. Running, with title.
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Apr 13, 2009 22:11
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Ziploc posted:http://toronto.en.craigslist.ca/tor/mcy/1130338736.html and virtually imposable to find parts for. You're not missing "much".
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Apr 20, 2009 18:34
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That 550ES is wha tI ride. It's got the wrong tank on it.. so it's either a new tank, or it's a E to ES conversion. I'd buy that over the CBR250. Torque has it's uses, the CBR250 won't have it.
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Apr 23, 2009 14:19
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MrZig posted:And that GS500es doesn't look well taken care of. We'll find something! Only got two weeks. It's a 550ES. The 500 and 550 are very, very different bikes. The 550's have 63hp, versus the 500's 39. The 550 is a 4 valve 4 cylinder, and uses oil cooling on the heads. The 500 is a 2 valve 2 cylinder, and is entirely air cooled. The 550 has remote rear preload, and antidive forks. The 500... doesn't. The 550ES is in good enough shape, it's not rotted out.. though I'd want shots of the frame near the swingarm pivot and exhaust before paying $1500. $1000 cdn would be very fair. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 18:57 on Apr 23, 2009 |
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Apr 23, 2009 18:53
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| # ¿ May 16, 2024 11:55 |
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MrZig posted:Er, that's what I meant. I just woke up, shh. That 550ES looks like it "might" need tires. And it will need intake o-rings. (that's the unpredictable idle he's talking about) otherwise, it's in better shape than my own. And you need to admit, you got a very special (as in shortbus) bike.
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Apr 23, 2009 18:57
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