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Zazamoot posted:I'm concerned about the age of the bike and the size of the engine. Is it too much bike, too old, for a beginner? I've got no mechanical experience (or automotive purchasing experience, for that matter). However, I've heard great things about UJMs and this one appears to be in good condition. The price is in line with what I'd like to spend on a first bike. Yes, it's to much bike. It's not to old. It's an L, which makes it a bit more comfy for long rides, but makes it harder to deal with in low speed corners. It's got lots of torque, and it comes in low. That age range is a sweet spot. Nothing complex, electronic ignition, and commodity parts. Someone buy that, not you, not as a first bike. That thing doesn't need you dropping it. :-) My bike right now is a 1982 GS650E.
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Jul 21, 2012 09:13
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alnilam posted:GS450, $3500 Sir Tonk posted:So what's your opinion on the GS850G's from that era? *snip* They're like most GS's. You can expect "running like new" to last well past 100,000 miles. And with the G's you're not swapping chains. Suzuki only re-engineers parts when they absolutely have to. The GS850G wheels, swingarm, transmission, headset, fork, etc... are all the same as most other GS####Gs. So parts are very, very common. And unlike honda, not model specific! For a vast number of GS parts, it's a GS part. Not a GS750 part. Or like most hondas a 1982-84 CB450SC part. The parts supply is deep, the only thing that can get hard to find are clean exhausts. Just to give you what I think too. If I bought a big block GS, it would be a GS850G. That said, it's going to be a long while before I give up my GS650E. :-) That 850 is also the right color.
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Jul 26, 2012 07:03
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Friends don't let friends ride Duacti parallel twins.
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Sep 11, 2012 19:50
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Dzus posted:http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/mcy/3327295331.html They're great bikes. But they're insanely hard to get parts for. Especially the ones that make it a "nice" bike. You can't buy carb needles or emulsion jets.
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Oct 18, 2012 17:23
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Barfolemew posted:I'm bying my first motorbike this spring, and i have narrowed my choises to either Kawasaki ER-5 or Suzuki GS. Both are around 1999 or 2000 model with 40-50k km. Honda CB is in this range too but its really hard to find one with a decent price, as they tend to be overpriced here (finland). The ER-5 is a more powerful bike. And... if you watch people on this forum, EX500/ninja500's have this miraculous ability to crash. I don't know why. And being water cooled, they have a lot more things to fix if you end up off the road. The GS is air cooled. Other than the ignition system, the entire engine is self contained. The only way you can take one out in a crash is cracking a case. There's a whole heck of a lot less to go wrong. But you're also at the mercy of an air cooled engine, which means it's idle changes a little with temperature. Such is the nature of air cooled bikes. If durability is your ONLY concern, the GS wins. I also trust the GS chassis more. There's only one fluid to maintain as well. You also get the Suzuki parts bin advantage. Most GS parts are shared with other suzuki models, so if you screw up, you're gonna find parts at the local parts shop. I'd go GS. :-)
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Mar 28, 2013 21:25
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Coredump posted:I'm going to say a SV650 is not recommended if you're 5'5". Maybe a GS500 would be better, I remember mine sat pretty low and comfy. SV650 was definitely more of a stretch to get down to the ground at first, and I'm 5' 10". Say what? I'm 5'5" too. If flat footing was important, about half of the bikes designed with cornering in mind would be off limits to me, and all of the enduro bikes. I ride them just fine. And i'm not the only person who does that. Sometimes it takes a little planning. But you shouldn't limit yourself to bikes you can flat foot. I will say getting toes down on both sides helps. ... me riding a KLR650 is hilarious. And to kickstart my WR250... well I"m glad I'm flexible.
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Apr 17, 2013 05:18
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clutchpuck posted:Do you strike a "Captain Morgan" pose at stoplights? I hadn't thought of it that way. But yes, exactly. AT least on a KLR or WR. Most bikes I just toes down.
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Apr 17, 2013 22:07
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yergacheffe posted:How do you manage stops on the KLR? I'm 5'6" and I have trouble setting a single toe down on a DRZ400SM, which is supposed to be about 1.5" shorter than a KLR650. Do you just have the suspension set to sag a lot? The KLR in particular I rode was set up for a 300+ pound guy. It was.. challenging at stops. I would get my shifting done before I stopped, slide off to the left side and get ready to get my foot down. My right foot wasn't on the peg anymore. I can't say I'd recommend doing what I did. But it was a lot of fun riding a tractor. n8r posted:Nero is very effective at pre-loading the suspension.
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Apr 18, 2013 05:54
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I"m bothered by a lot of this discussion. Bikes are unfuckingbelievably simple. A 1982 GS650, provided you find an unmolested bike, is going to be really damned reliable. Same for a CB650. Or a GS850. Or a GS1100. Or FJ1200. Or any of a few dozen other bike models. Just do "normal" maintance, and they'll treat you with above normal reliability. Buell Blasts have a very poor reputation for reliability. For a variety of reasons, oil leaks, transmission trouble, electrical issues. They're bad bikes from all reports. The GS650 has closer to 70hp, than 60. Bikes, in general are maintenance heavy machines. Replacing clutch cables, throttle cables, brake pads, fork seals... If you want truly low maintenance, you're looking at scooters.
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Apr 23, 2013 21:10
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TheNothingNew posted:Going to look at this tomorrow, weather (and thread advice) pending: Sadly they deleted that post. This isn't your first bike right? 89hp, big, heavy, but reliable like a tank. Will continue to run well with bad carb boots and crap fuel. GS1100GK. http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/mcy/3760662001.html Change the oil, make sure the radiator is never dry. Check the stator every year. Ride till you're 90.Honda GL500 http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/mcd/3761153077.html Unmolested 1981 GS650GL. If I didn't have a GS650E, I'd be all over this. http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/mcy/3745381469.html Clean, CB650. They have funny charging systems, but there's good aftermarket support. http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/mcy/3757603160.html The key is to buy something after 1980, as everything after 1980 has electronic ignitoin. Points require regular, frequent, maintenance. Throw a bottle of carb cleaner in your tank BEFORE it starts running funny. And change the oil, and any bike above will run until you're ready for your next bike.
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Apr 23, 2013 22:41
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1983...forcev4exp=true Would this be a completely terrible idea? Early 1980's EFI, Turbo, 673cc bike? .... The last one that sold on ebay went for more than 10k.
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May 1, 2013 15:45
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nsaP posted:The 1000 has a GSXR front end and some other stuff tho, I forgot about that. Tough call. The 1000 is a better bike on all levels. It's got more torque, has the GSXR stuff at both ends, and the sort of power that will never leave you wanting for more. As long as you don't live in the midwest. The slugs of power you get from that thing at low rpm is fun. :-) And it winds out well too. The only good answer here is SV1000.
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May 7, 2013 06:44
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Z3n posted:Seems like he's asking way too much for it. It's probably jetted like poo poo, but maybe not. With those pods on it? yeah, it is jetted for poo poo. The dynojet stage 3 kit is for an open 4-1 and K&N pods, those are emgo pods, and are more restrictive than the stock airbox. Stock they'll do 125, so getting it up to 95 is nothing exciting. He's asking a grand to much for a clean example. Much less one that's been gutted like that. The frame's been cut, so there's really no going back. Does anyone else not see a taillight, or a license plate mount, or is it just me? For $500 it might be an Ok deal, provided he can show you a clean title, brake light, and license plate mount. For $1000, I'd laugh at you. For $2200, I'd try to sell you oceanfront property in south dakota.
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May 7, 2013 22:31
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Schroeder91 posted:I'm looking for my first bike, and while browsing craigslist just to make the wait that much harder I came across this http://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/mcy/3775172901.html, and wanted to know what you guys thought. I'm a pretty big dude, 6'7 and 300 lbs, would this be a good fit? Would it be good for a starter bike? I'm looking for something for commuting to work and home and maybe cruising around town. Any advice or suggestions of good deals in the area would be swell, I'm in Phoenix. no. people will suggest other bikes.
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May 11, 2013 04:00
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Buying an old ferrari is cheap. Running an old ferrari isn't. ... That phrase works for Husqvarna.
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May 13, 2013 16:08
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captainOrbital posted:Someone in Chicago is selling a naked Goldwing for a thousand dollars. Once a bike is moving, it's weight becomes pretty transparent. And goldwings are the masters of low cg. If I didn't have my heart set elsewhere, I'd buy it. :-) At least go check it out.
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May 15, 2013 22:15
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captainOrbital posted:Well, since I'm 5'10" and weigh like 135 lb., I would probably look very silly on it, like I bought a somehow magnified UJM. Also, maneuvering in parking lots. That's where the low CG comes in. Goldwings are old mens bikes for a reason. They're easy to ride, low maintnance, and comfortable.
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May 15, 2013 22:41
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spixxor posted:Would it be a terrible idea for me to get a Shadow 1100 as a first bike? A buddy of mine has one that I'm thinking about buying. He gave me a little mini lesson in his driveway yesterday (pretty much just walk the bike and back it up, over and over to get a feel for the clutch and throttle) and I liked it a lot better than my other friend's Suzuki Boulevard, and that bike was an 800. Where the hell did you read about a "250 rule?" From what I can find the Shadow 1100 has ~50hp, which is right on the money. Know you WILL drop the bike, and repairing chrome is a lot more expensive than fixing paint. I rode an 1100 at some point, and a 750. They handle just fine, which is the best I can say for any cruiser. The 750 was hilariously slow. Take the MSF, you absolutely will learn bad habits if you do not.
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May 22, 2013 02:30
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alk4life posted:I test rode a NC700X and agree with Gweenz. I'll add that low rev limit felt very strange, I was constantly hitting it. I'm sure you'd get used to it though. It seemed like a smart choice for a commuter, but was so boring I had to pass. You've described my whole problem with actually riding hondas. "Waits for torque curve, hits rev limit instead" repeat for next shift.
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Jun 7, 2013 17:39
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n8r posted:Is that how you'd describe the CRF450F that flung you to the moon and broke your elbow? Yes. It must be a great little pocket universe your brain lives in. What with with all the wonderful stories of everyone else's life that you're constantly making up. How often does it mesh with reality? Pretty please? Tell me the stories?
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Jun 7, 2013 20:48
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How about everything you got right? It was a Honda, and I broke my elbow. You don't need to be my historian, in fact, stop trying, you're positively horrendous at it. I didn't get flung from the bike. I didn't get air. I didn't find my way into orbit around another celestial body. It was what, five years ago? I don't think I could accurately describe the power band of the CRF450X beyond "Woooah." This is, I think, the third creative iteration of your interpretation of what I did in the woods that afternoon. I think it's time you stop using it as an example.
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Jun 7, 2013 21:32
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aventari posted:Is this a good deal for a GS1100e? $2800 seems a fair price. I'd want to see the damage on the tank, and "the better tank." I don't expect you'd have problems. They had the r/r issues settled by then. The brake setup seems unique, I've not seen that before. TapTheForwardAssist posted:That's actually a good reminder; another utilitarian/"messenger" bike. My vague impression from my old research was that the stock Ninja 500 has better numbers (50 vs 40hp?), but the Ninja is built pretty much to the ragged edge of capacity, while the GS is pretty heavily restricted and perks up a lot with rejetting and aftermarket exhaust. I also like the fact that the GS comes naked, whereas my project to streetfighter my EX just dawdled on forever because I'm really just not very mechanical beyond basic maintenance. <-- GS fan. I had nothing against the EX500 until I started watching riders on this forum. It seems the EX500 likes to randomly "do something stupid." Like, refuse to turn, headshake, or other nastiness. Maybe it's just noob riders here, but you don't hear that from people starting on a solid UJM, or one of the other noob bikes. There's nothing radical, or on the edge, about the EX500 motor. They're solid, and reliable. The reason for the horsepower difference is the vast difference in compression ratio. (The GS500 is 8.5:1 IIRC, and the EX500 is 10.8!) And the GS500 is set up for a wide torque spread, it's got something like 80% of peak torque at 3000rpm, where the EX500 doesn't get there till something like 6000rpm. Neither engine is on the edge of anything. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 19:08 on Jun 20, 2013 |
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Jun 20, 2013 18:52
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Slavvy posted:http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/sports/auction-610906364.htm TL;DR: The Bandits are detuned GSX-R motors. The GS1200SS is "the ultimate extention" of the GSX motor. Bandits are common, GS1200's are rare. Well, it's got an engine that's slightly older than the B12. IIRC the GS1200SS still is a GSX engine. (that is GSX, not GSX-R) So it's got more in common with a GS1150, or GS1100, than a GSF1200 or GSX-R1100. Not that they're distantly unrelated, but the "actual parts" are from the GSX line, not the GSX-R. The GS1200SS is a rare bike. I think converting one would be a mistake.
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Jul 3, 2013 20:12
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Nitrox posted:You're thinking performance tires. Road rubber is good for up to 8 years, depending on the brand. And it's likely to hit age limit before wearing out. What? When's the last time you saw a set of motorcycle tires get past 10,000 miles?
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Jul 10, 2013 21:46
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The Bonneville isn't exactly a powerful bike. And the torque curve is... how shall I say... uninspiring? It's not so much a torque curve, as a torque shelf. Since the re-launch, triumphs are some seriously reliable bikes. I wouldn't look at them in a light any different from a japanese bike.
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Jul 17, 2013 14:40
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captainOrbital posted:Well, there's the Honda CB1100, which has a nice retro UJM look, or you could go nuts with a Moto Guzzi V7 Racer, which is absolutely gorgeous. It also has a 7-cylinder V-configured engine, which would be completely awesome and also probably unworkable if true. Well honda ran a V5 for a while, so it's not "that" insane.
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Sep 19, 2013 20:55
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SquadronROE posted:What do you guys think of Suzuki Bandits? Given that I don't mind working on the bike a fair amount. Bandits kick all forms of butt. They're easy to work on, have what amounts to a GSXR engine in them, and are naked, so don't draw to much attention. The 600, and 1200 are great. That's a Bandit 400. Sadly that's the runt of the family, they're hard on the needle jets, and you can not find replacements. Run. edit: Hmmpf, it looks like they might be BS32SS's. If that is true... parts are available. Now what bike out there has the BSW28's on it... the GSXR250? Nerobro fucked around with this message at 01:07 on Oct 5, 2013 |
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Oct 5, 2013 01:03
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Mewcenary posted:Bike not running due to a dead battery = walk away for me. How hard would it have been for him to make sure the battery was charged? Bring jumper cables. Or have them use jumper cables. A bad battery is a quick $40-60 off the cost of the bike, that you'd spend anyway. Also, bad charging systems = cheap bike fodder. Both are usually "by next week" fixes, so if you can delay gratification a little, you can save hundreds on a bike.
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Sep 29, 2014 08:20
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Fishvilla posted:Advice? Take the MSF.
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Oct 14, 2015 16:50
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