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Z3n posted:why have I never written up a newbie buyer guide to save myself writing all of this all the time I was going to ask why we don't have a sticky for all this poo poo.
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Jul 28, 2011 18:06
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:Those have a turbo? I did not know that! I'm not really into Harley's, but that is pretty freaking sweet. It's stuck right there on the side. They don't come with them stock, that's a custom job. The listing talks all about it.
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Aug 15, 2011 18:22
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You're gonna have to go with the HYPER CYCLE, it has hub-center steering. edit: wait, I can't figure out how the LIGHTNING BIKE would turn. Looks like some company is gonna have to fire their entire R&D department 
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Aug 16, 2011 04:26
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That comes from the old national speed limit of 55, I believe.
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Aug 18, 2011 02:23
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thylacine posted:As I understand it, vehicles made at the time were made to operate at highest efficiently at 55 mph, is that correct or nonsense I picked up a long the way? I thought that as well for awhile, but this cleared things up pretty handily: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/National_Maximum_Speed_Law#55.C2.A0mph_speedometers
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Aug 18, 2011 06:54
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Holy poo poo, that thing is definition of cool.
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Aug 20, 2011 17:48
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Looking at bikes for friends and I found this: http://jacksonville.craigslist.org/mcy/2556812440.html Shouldn't that be closer to $1000? His price seems pretty high for a cookie-cutter
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Aug 20, 2011 18:06
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Backov posted:It was also a piece of poo poo and I hated it. Gutless and crappy. Thanks for the quick review, guess I'll pass on this one, haha.
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Aug 20, 2011 18:09
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So, again, while on the hunt for bikes for friends, some guy emailed me about a few 750 turbos he has, and he's trying to get rid of the whole lot. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/Frankfriendly/BIKES/1y.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/Frankfriendly/BIKES/2turbos.jpg Tell me why I shouldn't go throw my money at him. edit: Two of the bikes have titles, and he has a shitload of spares and one-off parts. edit2: I'm not sure how I didn't notice the added intercooler in the first photo, but apparently the guy modded that one with a bigger turbo and swapped the motor out for something I didn't understand that was bored out to 880cc. He claimed it did 150 in the 1/4 mile. Want. edit3: Nevermind, he won't sell me just one of them. AncientTV fucked around with this message at 01:23 on Aug 21, 2011 |
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Aug 21, 2011 00:09
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$3500 for the 3 bikes and all the parts
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Aug 21, 2011 02:52
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2ndclasscitizen posted:That one that's had the newer rear wheel swapped in is definitely a keeper, it'd make life waaaaaaaay easier. Yeah, that's some newish GSX-R rear and suspension, and he also said that bike has a ZX-9r front end swap  And Z3n, he didn't bite. Seems pretty firm at 3500. AncientTV fucked around with this message at 09:42 on Aug 21, 2011 |
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Aug 21, 2011 09:37
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If your friend knows what to look for, and those compression numbers are indeed true, then you've got nothing to worry about. Ninja 500s are reliable as hell. Check all the standard consumables, and if it's in good shape and looks like it's been taken care of, then it would be a good purchase. Here's a maintenance schedule: http://www.ex-500.com/wiki/index.php/Maintenance_Schedule
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Aug 27, 2011 23:42
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MaC_DaDDy posted:He definitely won't go for 2200 though unfortunately because he said to show up with 2500 in cash. You'd be surprised how easy it is to change someones mind when you have a fist full of 100s.
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Sep 1, 2011 02:46
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I know I'm not the only one that's seen a dent in the tank right where the balls would hit in an accident. My current bike has one, and I shudder to think of what actually happened.
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Sep 8, 2011 23:33
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http://jacksonville.craigslist.org/mcd/2588737796.html How much would you guys offer for this? I can't tell if there's crash damage on it, but if not, I was thinking maybe $400-500? edit: Depending on tire age and chain wear of course. Forgot that I'd need oil and coolant as well.
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Sep 17, 2011 22:14
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Almightysim posted:Will 26hp be enough for a 220lb rider? Highway speeds where I live are around 70mph, and while I'm sure a 250 could do 70 with me on it, would it have any power left to safely pass if needed? Researching online has given unreliable yes and no answers to the question. I'm 165lbs with gear, and I've loaded my 250 up with ~50 pounds of luggage before, and it still performed admirably on the highway. It will definitely do 70, and you'll have decent acceleration up to 80-85 if you downshift into 5th. Almightysim posted:Are there some important things I should take a good look at when shopping for bikes? I could afford a new one, but if it's a safe bet to buy a used 250R then I'll look at that. Other than asking about how used bikes were stored and maintained and obvious damage, what are the telltale signs of a good or bad bike? Would asking about how it was broken in be a good indicator, or how often the fluids and filters are changed? Do motorcycles have issues with hose cracking or corrosion or the like from being stored improperly? A used 250r would be perfect. You can pick up a reliable one for under $1500, ride the hell out of it, and then sell it back for the same price if you decide to change up rides. You won't have hoses eroding on newer bikes. Improper storage typically just leads to clogged carbs, a dead battery, old oil, and maybe dryrotted tires depending on the length of storage. If a bikes been sitting for longer than a year, you generally want to avoid it as a new rider. You start to get issues like rusted tanks. Those are good questions to ask to get a feeler for how well it's been taken care of (make sure the seller doesn't come off like they've been beating the poo poo out of it), but don't take their word for it. As far as checking out the bike yourself, read through this, and you'll be totally prepared: http://www.clarity.net/~adam/buying-bike.html However, the best way is to try and get a knowledgeable friend to look at it/test ride it for you. Almightysim posted:Are there any issues with fuel I should know about? They only sell E10 in northwest Oregon, does that play a role in bike choice? Older bikes (I don't have any specific years for you, sorry. Someone else can comment on that) aren't too happy with ethanol fuels. Their rubber lines can be incompatible with it (leading to faster deterioration), and I think they run a bit worse on it. As for newer bikes, E10 helps to dislodge gunk buildup, but if it's been sitting for awhile with untreated gas in it, then you're going to have clogged carbs. Almightysim posted:Lastly, what might be some other bikes I should consider taking a look at? Sport bikes appeal to me, but having not ridden anything outside of MSF, I'm unsure of what other options are available or if I'm misplaced as far as what I want. I'm assuming that a 250 would at least be sellable for a decent price after I've ridden it for a while, and would give me a good, low cost opportunity to know whether I like sportier bikes or not. Ninja 250, Ninja 500, Ninja 650r, Suzuki GS500 and SV650, Yamaha XJ600s, and the infinite amount of UJMs. Typically if you find a bike with 70hp or less, and something that isn't crazy heavy (550lbs and up tends to be aggravating for a first bike. Low speed maneuvers are made far more difficult), it'll be a workable beginner bike. Edit: One more thing you want to think about is parts availability and price. If/when you have your first stupid newbie drop, you don't want to have to wait 2 weeks and pay hundreds of dollars for a handlebar. Good luck! 
AncientTV fucked around with this message at 07:34 on Sep 23, 2011 |
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Sep 23, 2011 03:39
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Unless the market is different in your area, I wouldn't pay more than $1800 for that, and that's pushing it. Sure, it has low miles and it's in excellent condition, but the MSRP for that bike was $2999 new, and that thing is 8 years old. There's no "vintage" premium for 250s.
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Sep 23, 2011 07:32
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:I did have the impression that the SV650 was the standard econo-alternative to the Ducati, so I'll have to check out the SV650 thread, and also read up on the smaller SV variants. I'm having a hard time telling at a glance at forums on Google: are the SV400 and SV325 available enough in the US to even consider, or is the 650 the only reasonable American option? The 650 is your only option, and within that, the naked, sport, or fully-faired sport are your choices. TapTheForwardAssist posted:So far as being a little more upright, and less hunched forward, any particular model or modifications to watch for, other than avoiding the "S" variants? I've seen at least a couple reviews describing the SV650 as a Standard, vice Sport, bike, so that's interesting. EDIT: Huh, at least one guy mentioning that insurance companies consider the SV650 (not "S") a standard, non-sport bike. Look for the N variant, and avoid the SF as well. On the naked, the handlebars are a bit more up-swept, so it is indeed a standard seating position.
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Oct 10, 2011 13:27
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Z3n posted:Just linked in the thread to my for sale thread, where I'm asking $2400. He's posted response pictures, all that rash is so sad 
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Oct 15, 2011 02:05
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Mcqueen posted:Are 250 cruisers that much cheaper than 600's? Don't see how they are worth it out side of parking lots. I wouldn't buy a cruiser just to have to wring it out on the freeway. I see GZs, Rebels, Nighthawks, etc. go for a grand all day on my local CL. If one didn't know about their utter lack of power, compared to small displacement sports/standards, I can see how they'd be an attractive purchase.
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Oct 26, 2011 18:32
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thylacine posted:Would I need a title if I wasn't riding it on the street? Nope, no title required, I would run the VIN (you can just call the DMV) to make sure it isn't stolen though.
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Nov 15, 2011 17:26
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I'm looking for my next bike to flip. Barring any obscene mechanical issues, is there any reason I shouldn't go throw my money at this guy? I haven't found much in the way of Googling that points to common issues with the 955i. No contact as of yet, seeing as I found the ad too late, so no more information than what's stated. http://jacksonville.craigslist.org/mcy/2712244579.html
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Nov 25, 2011 04:49
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True, I guess the ad still being up at that price is a testament to that.
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Nov 25, 2011 06:05
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Fuel filters may get gunked up, I believe.
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Dec 2, 2011 18:10
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If you do get it, be prepared to live up to your username.
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Dec 2, 2011 23:22
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So I'm looking at an 07 Ninjette for possible purchase (what the hell is it with me and parallel twins..), and there's one caveat that I need a bit of input on. The current owner said he was riding it one day when a rad hose popped off, and the bike barfed it's coolant everywhere, causing the bike to overheat of course. I assume that, like cars, bikes will shut off before any damage is done, but does that mean I can assume that the engine is fine?
AncientTV fucked around with this message at 06:05 on Dec 6, 2011 |
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Dec 6, 2011 06:02
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What the hell, how do modern vehicles not shut off when they overheat, aside from when they're ruining themselves? If a temperature gauge is already present, engineer it to send an abort code to the ECU when poo poo hits the fan. I'm also retarded apparently, so there's probably a reason why this wouldn't be feasible. 
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Dec 6, 2011 20:53
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I should've included the disclaimer that I don't know poo poo about cars.
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Dec 6, 2011 21:11
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Ugg try fix biek, biek fix bad, no work now.
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Dec 17, 2011 17:50
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Fake. If you had emailed them, you would've gotten some bullshit story about how it was their son's bike and he was killed in Iraq and how they want to get rid of it because it reminds them of him blah blah blah That kind of ad pops up around here all the time, and it's always the same.
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Dec 28, 2011 06:17
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Personally, I would hold the title and not even let him near the bike until the last payment is made, on top of the aforementioned contract and schedule. If he were given free reign of the bike before he technically owns it, liabilities can turn into a huge mess.
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Dec 28, 2011 07:14
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That's a bit more realistic. For comparison sake, my daily gear consists of: KBC helmet - $120 on sale A* stage jacket - $250 on closeout AGV track pants - $140 on Craigslist Held Score gloves - $100 on sale Sidi Fusion boots - $160 on sale Troll your local CL for used stuff (be mindful of damage, and never buy a used helmet), and check gear sites daily for closeout deals. You can nearly cut the total cost in half buying this way.
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Jan 19, 2012 18:51
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Generally, hiking boots and the like will provide good abrasion resistance, but next to nothing when it comes to preventing your ankle from being snapped in half when you decide to kick the ground in a crash. If you hold a pair of good 12" riding boots, you'll see that it's nearly impossible to bend the foot portion side-to-side or twist it, and there is limited front-to-back movement as well, not to mention the armored areas that absorb impact energy. I know you can find up to size 50 UK (I think that's 14.5 US) in most boots, but I'm not sure about the width availability. Most gear sites will have a "hard to fit" search or somesuch.
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Jan 19, 2012 19:04
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Darksiders don't even get nice tires, they'll buy the cheapest, hardest, worst excuse for rubber they can find just to save a few bucks.
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Jan 27, 2012 05:11
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Hypnolobster posted:I personally want to move into doing fire roads and other dual sport types of things while doing 75% road. The other two people both share this opinion but are considering getting Ninja 250's for the time being. I'm fairly okay with that idea. A nice little acceptably powered street bike would be fantastic. I don't know how well a Ninja would respond to 2 month trip level of packing (lightweight backpacking gear included) with 6' tall 160-180lb guys, though. Both in weight and in gear existing that will hold that on a Ninja. Hypnolobster posted:I'm sort of drawn to a KLR650. As far as I can tell, it's perfect for the kind of riding I'd like to eventually do. Does great on the highway (as far as I've read, anyway) and will happily handle boring offroad, not very muddy at all stuff. Hypnolobster posted:I honestly don't know what else to look at. I've thought about the KLX250SF, WR250X, CRF230M, DRZ400SM and probably a few more I'm forgetting. All sort of discounted for reasons like highway stability (or ability to actually go highway speeds without worrying), tiny fuel tank, hard to find/expensive or something else similar Hypnolobster posted:I think I want something that will handle the gear for long trips, be totally stable and happy at highway speeds and preferably be able to do some light offroad. A decent range is pretty important, although I keep telling myself that a 2.5 gallon aux tank on the tail of the bike makes supermoto's a viable option. Hypnolobster posted:I keep coming back to either a KLR650, or just buying a Ninja 250, learning how to ride and then selling it in favor of something I can go ride around in Alaska with. Long winded reply 
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Jan 28, 2012 18:19
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While the power is in the noob-friendly range, that beast is gonna weigh something like 630lbs without you on it. Having a heavy bike as your first may not present as many obstacles as an overly-powerful one, but it's going to be a bitch all the same.
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Feb 15, 2012 21:28
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I imagine low-speed maneuvers would be quite a bit more difficult at first as well, though.
AncientTV fucked around with this message at 01:59 on Feb 16, 2012 |
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Feb 15, 2012 22:52
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27 year old bike with a lovely flat black paint job. I'd say $900, if that.
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Feb 24, 2012 01:48
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Check all things rubber, as they deteriorate over time (vacuum and fuel lines, and as you said, tires), ask about all the fluids (if none of them have been changed, count on oil, filter, brake, and coolant change), battery will probably be shot, and check the inside of the tank for rust. Depending on how it was stored, it may need a new chain and sprockets if they've managed to rust.
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Feb 29, 2012 21:23
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I didn't see that a dealership was selling it. The high price may be accounted for by fresh fluids and a new battery (not that the price isn't still inflated). They'd want more bargaining power, and those things would give it to them since it would allow them to start the bike up. As clutchpuck said, just ask a bunch of questions.
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Feb 29, 2012 21:34
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