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nm posted:Dammit. Rear wheel bearings. The ABS tone ring/speed sensor pickup on them is rubber and when dirt gets in there it scratches the rubber cover and messes the signal up. 05s have a unitised bearing so you dont need a press like the older ones, its just 4 bolts and an axle nut to change it out.
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Oct 11, 2008 22:46
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Cat Terrist posted:Where the hell is the place you refill a gearbox when you do an oil change...? Drivers side, between the intercooler and the turbo. Use a hose and fill it slowly. Too quick and it will pressurise the gearbox and you will be wearing the gear oil.
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Oct 13, 2008 10:18
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nm posted:Is the ring part of the wheel bearing on these cars then? Yep, all one piece. The ABS ring is hidden under the black rubberyou see at the top.
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Oct 14, 2008 09:40
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nm posted:Ok, so my Subaru dealer may be trying to gently caress me ove ron this. It was the wheel bearing (Thanks for that diagnosis).
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Oct 15, 2008 09:32
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jamal posted:I got some information about the 09 failures today. Apparently the problem is that some of the blocks didn't have the casting materials/leftovers/flashing flushed out well enough and that crud ended up floating around in some motors. They're checking the oil on all the 09s, and if it shows signs of debris the whole shortblock gets replaced. After all the problems with the 08 bottom ends I seriously doubt that it's just lack of cleanup that's caused it. And i'm guessing that the oil checks are the ones where they use a little tube on a bottle to suck the debris out of the pan from the drain plug hole. That's pretty ineffective because a tube with a 1mm hole is no good for picking up bearing pieces that are 3mm thick.
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Oct 28, 2008 09:48
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jamal posted:There have been problems with 08 bottom ends? I know they have a lovely stock map that's melted a few pistons, usually after some poorly done modifications, but I haven't heard of any 08 imprezas spinning bearings. There are multiple reports on the 09s and a few Legacies doing it though. All '08s with the 2.5T in Australia were at risk of bearing failure. I know of some cars that had the short blocks replaced twice before 5000kms. I'm still not sure what caused it but I think its more a bearing quality issue rather than a problem with the oiling system.
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Oct 28, 2008 10:13
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Cat Terrist posted:Does this apply to STI's as well? TractionControl posted:It's an NA Subaru Outback, though. Could possibly be the heatshield on the exhaust. Have a look at the shield that mounts to the top of the cat converter on the manifold. Usually the metal cracks around the stud on the outside rear and can sometimes sound like a whistle.
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Oct 29, 2008 08:26
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Cat Terrist posted:gently caress. Scrubs that idea by the sounds of it. At the moment it's hard to say. The one thing is that if they are going to blow you're going to find out early, usually within the first 15,000kms. Personally, for a race car i'd be more inclined to buy one thats been used and run in with a few kms on it. Make sure it's been serviced and get it compression tested then get a full tune on a dyno. If you bought one new for motorsport purposes you might be fine and it will run like a champ forever. I would just be too scared to spend 60-large on a car that could have one day racing and then 3 weeks back at the dealer getting a new short block.
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Oct 29, 2008 13:29
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jamal posted:uh, you said it was a manual, right? There aren't any lines he would have to bleed. Clutch line
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Jan 16, 2009 09:23
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It took 3 days to swap a transmission that can be done in well under 2 hours. Nothing is outside of the realm of possibilities. More than likely though they had someone working on it who had no idea what he was doing and took way too long and they are trying to come up with a good enough story to stall for more time.
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Jan 16, 2009 10:04
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GravityDaemon posted:Got an update from my dealership - the engine will have to be replaced, and they've ordered a long block (Im not sure what they meant by that, anyone care to elaborate?) and it should be put in by next week. I'll be picking up a loaner tomorrow night for my troubles. When I actually talk to them face to face I'd like to get a real run down of what actually happened. Longblock means everything but the up-pipe and turbo will be replaced. The Subaru long motors usually come with all the accessories already fitted as the motors are usually bench tested before being shipped. Should come with a brand new clutch too. LordOfThePants posted:I can't seem to get an audio confirmation that my doors lock - the back of the key fob (teardrop shape) says to hit unlock, then hold both lock and unlock for two seconds to enable/disable it, but it doesn't seem to do anything. Is there some way to disable it completely that's turned on maybe? Try hitting lock 5 times. Wait for the lights to flash before each press.
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Apr 22, 2009 09:19
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bull3964 posted:The rotors are a cakewalk though. As long as you pick up the right sized and pitch bolt to back off the rotor, it's as simple as taking the wheel off, undoing two bolts to remove the caliper, threading the two bolts you bought into the two holes to break the rotor free and then put everything back together again.
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May 2, 2009 07:56
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RealKyleH posted:You people wanting to disable ABS is pretty They will realise the error of their ways when the insurance company won't pay out for any claims because they disabled a safety system.
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May 24, 2009 08:52
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Something is not right here. My first indication was when I drained the oil and saw a gudgeon pin in the sump.   That first pic is of the #3 piston. Smashed the rod through the bore and pumped oil and coolant into the exhaust and turbo.
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Jun 24, 2009 09:18
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jamal posted:it appears that this is what I've broken: I don't see how you can damage that. On a manual transmission those splined shafts (B on that diagram) are held into the centre diff with circlips and can't come out. If you pop the ball joint off the offending side and that whole inner shaft comes out then you've just snapped a circlip. If you've somehow broken the bearing retainer/adjuster then you would probably know about it when all your gear oil falls out and you front diff exits the side of the case.
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Nov 25, 2009 03:20
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ab0z posted:Sooo... without some special service tools what's the right way to do it? Take the hub off the car and use a press with a basic set of press tools.
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Dec 6, 2009 07:08
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Cylinder 3 is 2in away. Cylinder 4 is on the other side
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Jan 8, 2010 11:38
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CharlesM posted:GIVE US THE DIESEL!! Trust me, you don't want it.
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Jul 8, 2010 11:01
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Cat Terrist posted:How the hell do you drain / flush power steering fluid? You can use a vacuum brake bleeder to suck it out or you can undo the hard lines on the rack and just keep turning the wheel with the engine off until it runs dry. Fill with fresh fluid, bleed, repeat. Id also suggest taking off the reservoir and spraying massive amounts of brake/carby cleaner in there and let it sit for a while to clean it our properly. edit: don't ever let the pump go dry for even a second when the engines running though. It kills them pretty quick and they can't be rebuilt. ChunksNensja fucked around with this message at 12:17 on Sep 3, 2010 |
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Sep 3, 2010 12:15
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Black88GTA posted:After that, I tried pulling the motor out again but it's holding onto the trans really well. I still have no idea what the gently caress is holding it on there, and it's pissing me off. There are two dowels on the bellhousing about halfway up on each side. You'll probably find they're seized on there pretty tight so soak them in some WD-40 or the like and smash them a bit with a hammer and punch. Once you break them loose the bellhousing should just slide right off. Should probably also spray some lube down the inspection hole and onto the torque converter snout as they tend to rust into the flexplate and you don't want that converted coming away from the transmission.
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Oct 25, 2010 06:21
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Cat Terrist posted:On the hunt for a Spec-B Liberty with towbar.
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Oct 29, 2010 11:16
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jamal posted:I'm pretty sure they didn't ever make an H-6 manual. The spec b is the only 6-speed legacy (well except the new ones but that transmission sucks) and it has a 2.5. Australia has them in the 4th gen Liberty(Legacy) with a 6 speed non-DCCD box behind the 3.0 H6. And god-drat do they like to burn oil.
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Oct 30, 2010 05:19
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Cat Terrist posted:They had 180Kw with the 3.0R, or I could wait and find a Blitzen wagon which also could be had with big fuckoff Brembos. Nope, only the Tuned by STI Liberty GT got the Brembo set up. The interiors on the Blitzen\STi tuned Lib's is what made them. Having a black roof lining and those leather and suede combo seats really made the car look a lot more upmarket inside and not like a base model car with go-fast bits on it.
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Oct 31, 2010 00:17
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Just putting it into first doesn't do enough. You have to put it in first and let the clutch out a little so the car starts to creep forward then put it in reverse.
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Nov 29, 2010 00:34
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Slow is Fast posted:Also, this little guy popped out when I pulled the rear RS axle... That looks a lot like the circlip that holds the wheel bearing in.
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Feb 17, 2011 07:33
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bamurphymac posted:TLDR: I have one mismatched tire on my WRX (same size but different brand, different tread pattern & presumably different wear) Assuming granny driving and spending as much time out of gear as possible am I safe for a few days til I get 4 new tires?
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Mar 9, 2011 09:41
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Slow is Fast posted:morrow. Sometimes when you have the battery disconnected for a while they tend to 'forget' what their idle is supposed to be at and stall when to clutch in and take all the load off the engine. Clean the throttlebody and idle speed controller and should sort itself out after a bit of driving. Slow is Fast posted:[*]Third. Whirring sound from the drivetrain. More notable on decel I can't figure out if something is off, or if it's a natural side effect from all the bushings and mounts I've thrown at the car. (Group N motor and trans, every single TiC bushing) I tried listening for if it's front or back, but my hearing is ROYALLY messed up, so I can't really tell. Slow is Fast posted:
If changing the sensor doesn't work their are electronic modules and kits out there to modulate the signal from the gearbox so you can get the right reading on the dash.
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Mar 30, 2011 11:41
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Amandyke posted:Is it not the sti 6 speed? It's the 5 speed with an extra gear jammed into it and it has shift cables instead of linkages.
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May 21, 2011 09:26
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nm posted:Don't all 2.5 turbos do this regardless of problems? Not a lot, but an oil coat is pretty normal. Yep they all do. Not unusual to see a 2.5T with less than 5000kms and have oil in the cooler pipes.
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May 29, 2011 09:38
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Cat Terrist posted:Neato then, dont need to worry. Where the hell I'm going to get the throttle replacement fromw with being reamed is a better question now, cant imagine OEM would be cheap Has the car had a flat battery or had it disconnected recently before the code showed up? These cars tend to have a shitfit when the ECU registers low voltage and throws code P0670 which is for the electronic throttle system. Even though there is nothing wrong the ecu tends to go nuts and start loving with the throttle system until the code is cleared. If the code is genuinely for a throttle system fault it could be that the relay for the electronic throttle is sticking. Just a possibility as i've never seen a throttlebody need to be replaced before.
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May 29, 2011 12:40
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Cat Terrist posted:Nope. Mazda yes, Subaru not a chance. Funny thing is that trade price on genuine Subaru head gaskets is cheaper than trade price Repco ones. Subaru markup is nearly as bad as BMW
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Nov 29, 2011 09:17
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tayLOVE posted:Currently having a misfire issue with my 04 FXT - after a warm start (ie after getting gas or swinging into the 7-11), I get ~15 seconds of rough idle before it smooths out. Eventually got a CEL for misfires on #1 and #3 and brought it into the mechanic. Check the cam control valve on top of the head, they can jam up and cause misfires without throwing a code. When theyre out just try and move the plunger with a small screwdriver to see if it's seized. Might need a clean out or replace. Easiest way to check is to swap the valves left to right and see if the misfires go to 2+4 ChunksNensja fucked around with this message at 07:42 on Nov 18, 2012 |
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Nov 18, 2012 07:38
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Sudo Echo posted:Definitely a throwout bearing, had that exact same thing happen twice. I just let it squeak until the clutch needed replacement. Don't do that. I've seen plenty that start to squeak and then soon they seize/explode and destroy the snout on the gearbox.
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Jan 7, 2013 08:30
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Cat Terrist posted:I'd take the 30 year old Victorian Signal Box in the Statesman over a CVT, that's how goat loving awful CVT's are. Yeah I can put up with the old 4 speed clunker, CVT's drive me utterly bonkers ESPECIALLY when left to their own devices! Slow to respond, when they do respond it's often to do something you dont want them to do, absolutly hosed if you want to have a spirited drive as a result. And no better that traditional autos when cruising, in some situations worse. Not everyone is a RALLY DRIVER!!! like you are. CVTs are primarily designed for fuel economy and smoothness so you can't expect them to have F1 style shifts in them. Do you know why the CVT is in the boring old Outback/Liberty/Imprezas and not in the GT/WRX/STI? Because its designed for families and people who drive the car to work everyday and want something comfortable. They aren't the greatest box ever but for an everyday car they are loving good in the Subarus and in the current line-up they are the better option. Braggo posted:Hah, don't know how crazy or racing I'll be able to be with an Outback. Really I just want to be able to get around/away from terrible SC drivers. Right there. Target CVT market
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Jan 10, 2013 11:16
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me your dad posted:I have a 2002 Forester with about 117k miles. Recently, I find sometimes when I press on the gas, the RPM rise and the engine revs, but power is not transferred accordingly to the wheels. It does this when I'm in motion - not when I'm going from a stop. It sometimes takes a second of this until the wheels engage fully. It's cold here now, and this problem started this winter, but it seems to happen when the engine has warmed up properly. Sounds like your clutch is worn out
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Jan 24, 2013 20:39
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me your dad posted:This is an automatic. Would that still apply? A coworker suggested it may be the torque converter. Doesn't apply. Check the auto oil to see if its low or burnt. May need a flush
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Jan 24, 2013 21:44
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Lilbeefer posted:'08 Subaru Liberty GT Tuned by STI Hard to see but it looks like it's got Brembos in those photos. They were black calipers on that model so it's harder to notice them. If it's got the Brembos, STI interior and a build plate on the engine cover then it's a proper Tuned by STI. Checking the VIN might not help as all the upgrade parts were fitted after they docked in Australia so its the same VIN as any other Liberty GT.
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Dec 15, 2013 08:08
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MasterOfDemons posted:Update: Broken... Are you sure you don't actually have a blocked cat? That would explain the code and the lack of boost.
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Dec 22, 2013 05:49
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:Did another slow turn test after being on the highway for 10 minutes and 80kmh roads for another 15 and it still feels like it should. The only resistance was the steering wheel wanting to reset. No noise except the engine and the wheels. 03 blobeye right? Use a screwdriver to pop the fog light surrounds off the bumper and then its 1 or 2 10mm bolts holding the whole fog lamp in. And don't worry about your centre diff, there will be nothing wrong with it. The transfer bearings will eat the pain before the centre diff does and if theyre hosed then you'd already hear it.
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Feb 15, 2014 02:00
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:Apart from the brakes feeling loose the past few days yes. It might have been doing this since I got the car, I dont normally drive with the window down but its getting warmer and my hairs super short now so I figured why not. You sure it's not a wheel bearing noise? When the bearing fails on those the freeplay causes the hub to wobble when turning and it pushes the pistons back into the calipers. The noise and sloppy brakes could be related. I've even seen so loose that the rotor would touch the calipers and cause a hiss noise when driving.
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Aug 25, 2014 10:36
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