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Majere
Oct 22, 2005
Hey guys, I'm looking to buy a used WRX or legacy GT soon for my daily driver. While I'm looking for the right one for me (there aren't too many for sale in the Tampa area. The closest Subaru dealership has only 2 used ones: a newer base impreza and a loaded STI. I don't want base model and I can't afford the STI) I was wondering if its practical to add a turbo(aftermarket or factory) to a car that doesn't have one if the car I find has all the other criteria I'd prefer. Or if it's smarter to get one with that option as priority.

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Majere
Oct 22, 2005

jamal posted:

don't even think about considering that.

chrisgt posted:

It's cheaper and easier to get a car that already has a turbo.
doing a swap will result in nothing more than a hacked up car with no value and more money invested.

nm posted:

Seriously.
If you think this will be easier than a 1000mi road trip, you're insane.

Lord Gaga posted:

Keep an eye out on NASIOC and craigslist in the orlando area. I see quite a few get listed on those two places. I am seeing them more and more often. When I bought mine I had to drive to Miami from Orlando to get a decent deal.


Alright cool. I understand completely. I've swapped engines in Toyota's and Honda's before, but this will be my first Subaru, and I was just unsure if it was worth doing to a modern car.

I will expand my search area. I have $15k cash to spend. I would prefer to buy something outright instead of financing a lot. I don't have "bad" credit, just not a lot, and I don't think its fair that I will most likely be rear end-raped with 17% interest.

Majere
Oct 22, 2005
Hey guys, just bought an '08 Spec B. Fortunately, it hasn't been modified, so I have a clean slate to start with. Been doing my homework browsing and searching the legacygt.com forums and to a lesser extent nasioc for more general Subaru topics.

It will be my daily driver, so I don't plan on going nuts with upgrades. But more power is more gooder. Seems the best bang for the buck right now is a new downpipe and intake. Being on a budget, I'd like to find them used. Aside from buying new from the sites in the OP, would I have the best luck with the legacygt forums or are there any other recommended sites(besides ebay)?

Majere
Oct 22, 2005

kylej posted:

Plus getting a dyno tune is fun as hell. My last tune, we must've had 10 Subarus there all hanging out to show support for a community guy who was trying to put down 400+whp for the first time. Lawn chairs next to the dyno, fancy cars all over the place, fast food, it's a good time.

That sounds pretty awesome. I'll have to see what places are recommended here in Tampa.

Majere
Oct 22, 2005
I need to pick your brains about a clunking/binding/popping noise coming from the front of my '08 Legacy specB (90k miles). It's very hard to describe, but it starts after 20 minutes of driving, mixed highway stop and go red lights. As I'm coasting to a stop below 10 mph I hear what I believe to be a binding crunching noise followed by pops and more crunching. Happens as well while I'm just inching to a stop at the entrance gates to my community.

Sometimes I can't tell if its coming from the driver side or passenger side or both. But I can definitely feel it in the floor board under/behind the clutch pedal.

It does not make the typical clicking noise of a bad CV on turns, or any loud whirring or whining that a bearing would make. I had it up on jacks when I changed the oil, and I could not discern any free play or movement of the wheels at 3 and 9 or 12 and 6.

Sometimes I can hear the noise coming from around the strut tower if I park the car and bounce it up and down.

The local Subaru here had the car for 3 days and couldn't find anything wrong. It sucks because it doesn't do it all the time either. If and when its making noise I can park it for a few hours and the noise will not be there when I leave.

:shrug:

Majere
Oct 22, 2005
So who at Exedy thought it would be a good idea to use a million pound pressure plate on a stage one clutch rated for like 300tq?

Majere
Oct 22, 2005
Does anyone have a low mileage VF52 for sale? I'm looking to get some more power for my '08 Legacy. I've been looking for a larger TMIC as well, eyeing the process west and the fast motor sports version which is a few hundred cheaper. Any thoughts on these?

Majere
Oct 22, 2005
Does anyone have experience with the Clutch Masters fx300 with the "Hi-Rev" pressure plate? Is it worth the few extra dollars over the HD for a daily driver?

Majere
Oct 22, 2005

Tusen Takk posted:

, I live in Detroit :(

Sorry to hear that :(

Majere
Oct 22, 2005

War Bunny posted:


Edit: I haven't asked about ordering a car from the factory in order to get the exact thing I want. Are dealers generally pretty good about doing this? I don't really know how it works. I have my goony dream of watching my dream car come in on the back of a truck with the plastic still on the hood :3:

Of course they can and will order a car for you from the factory. Just be prepared to wait a few months.

Majere
Oct 22, 2005
Is there anything I should be concerned about with buying a vf52 that has been run with an EWG setup? The IWG actuator was removed and the flapper tack welded shut, but will be returned to stock setup before shipping.

I don't know if this is a red flag that the turbo was beat up on or whatever.

Majere
Oct 22, 2005
Thanks for the input. Guess I'll keep looking. I know I'm going to compromise buying used, but no point in buying something that needs to be rebuilt.

Majere
Oct 22, 2005
Well, I figured I could find one for $400-$600 bucks as a cheap upgrade for my 08 Spec.B. Going through the NASIOC forums, there seems to be a low mileage one for sale every few days as the wrx guys take them off right away(maybe there's a reason for this? lol).

A 380XT(if this is closest to vf52) from Blouch is $1300.

Majere
Oct 22, 2005

blargle posted:

I was a dumbass and left my carkeys by the mailbox. They were gone today, how screwed am I in terms of getting Subaru to re-key the car?

I'm pretty sure you can get a new key cut at the dealership if you give them the VIN. I did this with my old toyota, and my friends old RS.

Majere
Oct 22, 2005
So in other news, the last mechanic to change my clutch out neglected to seat the axles properly and left out 3 or 4 transmission bolts to the engine.

Gonna cost me $9200 in repairs and Subaru wont even have a new transmission for me until the end of December.

Majere
Oct 22, 2005
The guy who did the work denies any wrong doing. And yes he is hearing from my lawyer since he refuses to work with me. I have also filed complaints with the Florida Department of Consumer Affairs and the local Better Business Bureau.

It may be buffalo biscuits but the dealership says there are no new Spec.b transmissions in the U.S. and one must be built for me in Japan lol.

The tranny itself is only around $6.5k new. The rest is for axles, clutch kit, all the missing bolts, supplies and labor.

I've been trying really, really hard not to flip my poo poo over this. Xanax helps.

Majere
Oct 22, 2005
It's a 6 speed similar to the sti but not the same. You think the dealership is going to put in used or rebuilt stuff from elsewhere? I went to them for a reason. I want it fixed right with all new parts the way it was before it broke.

e: I don't want to go into too much details right now. I needed to vent I suppose.

Majere fucked around with this message at 03:25 on Nov 9, 2012

Majere
Oct 22, 2005

jamal posted:

I just don't understand what part of the transmission could be broken that warrants a brand new replacement.

Probably has something to do with having no oil in it.

Majere
Oct 22, 2005
Sorry for ruining the thread!

Majere
Oct 22, 2005
Does it have any other built in functions? The navi in my Legacy has some gauges for instant mpg, avg mpg and throttle angle. All fairly useless until someone hacks it and gets it to display some more important engine management readings from the ecu.

Majere
Oct 22, 2005

Hillridge posted:

I've been doing some research into a boost gauge, but there's so much out there it's hard to narrow down.

Any suggestions?

I'm tempted to do an electronic one over a mechanical one since I'd eventually like to design an LCD interface and I could reuse the sensor. I know these exist too, but what I can buy for $200-300 I can build for nearly free with parts I already have.

Have you looked at the vent boost gauge? I installed one in my spec.b and it looks factory. very nice product.

http://gaugetek.wix.com/vbg1

Majere
Oct 22, 2005

bidikyoopi posted:

Oh god I want that on my 05 LGT. Where can I buy it? Couldn't find it on a quick google.

http://gaugetek.wix.com/vbg1

I have this in my Legacy since I have nav instead of the cubby, looks pretty stock and it's easy to install and setup.

Majere
Oct 22, 2005
So I had the 6 speed in my 08 LGT replaced a few months ago along with the entire clutch kit at the local dealership. Now I notice a grinding/scraping noise when decelerating in 2nd and 3rd. It goes away if I push the clutch in or give it a slight amount of gas. Anything I should check before bringing it back to them?

Majere
Oct 22, 2005
Love my vent boost gauge as well. Looks stock in the Legacy, colors match great and it can be configured many different ways. Well worth it!

Majere
Oct 22, 2005
At the very least I would apply a thin coat of a thick grease over any exposed threads and pin to have some protection against corrosion.

Majere
Oct 22, 2005
If anyone needs 4 pot STI front calipers, Rockauto has rebuilt, unpainted, Powerstop for $180 each. Part # L3698 & L3699.

picked up a set and rotors for my leggy

Majere
Oct 22, 2005
There's really no reason to tell someone who is just learning to not use the clutch. Its not 1920 or 1970. Granted its a useful skill to know if your pedal is inop for whatever reason and you need to move...

Like the others said, learning the engagement point and getting that muscle memory down is key. You work on timing the release from there, just learning the optimal times for speeds and rpm ranges.

Majere
Oct 22, 2005

Edward IV posted:

Thanks for all the tips. I think there is some confusion about using the clutch to shift; I was actually asking whether I should be fully depressing the clutch pedal or depressing far enough past the engagement point when using the clutch. I figured the latter would be allow for faster starts since I can get to the engagement point quicker while slowly letting the clutch out. If I'm fully engaging the clutch, I feel like I have to quickly let the clutch out just before the engagement point and then slowly let it engage. If I'm too slow to the engagement point, I could start rolling or mess up my timing trying to cross or enter traffic. If I'm too fast, I could lug the engine or stall out. The only downside for partially engaging the clutch is that if I could upset the car and damage the clutch if I don't go past the engagement point.

Regardless, I think I'll stick to fully depressing the clutch when using it and work out the muscle memory for the engagement point. As always, practice makes perfect.

I mean you could get away with only pushing it just past the engagement point and shifting. There's 4000 opinions on why this is awful and will destroy everything and 4000 opinions on why this is fine with just a little extra wear and tear. And every transmission is a little different about that...so it's best to just forget all that and push it all the way down. The 6 speed in my spec b leggy is easier to shift smoothly if I don't push it allll the way down because it has closer gear ratios than the sti 6 speed for whatever reason. I do that only when I have passengers who get car sick in city traffic, which is basically never. Anyways, that's all different from car to car with flywheel weight, ecu programming, gear ratios, etc. that affect how fast the revs drop between shifts. Shoot I think the fancy Nissans have automatic rev matching programmed in, and the fancy porches just largely ignore your pedal input and apply the clutch as determined by the ecu.

Everyone else has the right advice, engagement. Doing it a million times will just become automatic in your brain like breathing. like how you zone out driving home and don't know how you got there...

Majere
Oct 22, 2005
Justin Beardmans Artisanal Oxygen Sensor Emporium & Bespoke Haberdashery

Majere
Oct 22, 2005
I bought a $100 used non-cat downpipe and brought the old catted one to the metal man and he gave me $1200.

Thats my catalyst story, thanks for reading.

Majere
Oct 22, 2005
So the vf52 I have on the Legacy poo poo itself. I have the old low-mileage vf46 still that I can put on to at least get back and forth to work. Ok to drive easy for a few days until I can get another 52? or something betterer?

Majere
Oct 22, 2005
Yes, it is tuned for the 52, and i'm pretty sure my accessport has the stock map on it as a backup...just need to dig it out from wherever it wandered off to.

Majere
Oct 22, 2005
Well I got several hundred feet with a rebuilt vf52 before it poo poo itself. Shop that installed it says wasn't balanced properly, guy who built it says no oil/oil starved. FML

Majere
Oct 22, 2005
Has anyone ever fixed a P0021 code without 1 gallon of gasoline on top of the car?

Majere
Oct 22, 2005
So while I'm looking for an engine builder in Tampa to build a replacement engine for the old Spec.B, I bought a '21 STI to putz around in. Seems like a good car so far.

Majere
Oct 22, 2005
Do your states mandate free windshield replacement with your insurance? I know in Florida you are allowed 1 free windshield a year.

Majere
Oct 22, 2005

BIG HEADLINE posted:

Anyone have recommendations for a battery for a 2016 Legacy 2.5L?

I know I'm jinxing it, but I'm still on my stock battery (and it's still testing well) and I want to replace it before my luck runs out. I'm looking at the usual suspects, but I'm not past spending extra for an AGM battery (just not Optima as I've heard their quality's gone to poo poo).

Anything with a go handle and posts on the right sides is fine.

Majere
Oct 22, 2005
What's the best way to add an oil pressure gauge? I have one of those p3 vent gauges that accepts a couple of analog 0-5v signals.

Do those adapters you sandwich between the oil filter work ok? I've heard there are different galley plugs to use but most sensors don't fit without moving other junk around.

In other words what sensor do I need?

Majere
Oct 22, 2005
Ok, why in the world does the new STI have a relay that clicks every time you push the clutch in? Is it for the dash display that tells you what gear you're in?

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Majere
Oct 22, 2005
You cannot order a '21 anymore. Have to find whatever inventory is left around.

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