Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


back in the megathread someone posted a link to a dutch website that had tests and ratings of various motorcycle locks and chains. I don't suppose someone has it bookmarked?

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


ClockworkZero posted:

back in the megathread someone posted a link to a dutch website that had tests and ratings of various motorcycle locks and chains. I don't suppose someone has it bookmarked?

never mind, I found it!
http://www.stichtingart.nl/sloten_resultaat.asp

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


VideoTapir posted:

Is Johnny Pag http://johnnypag.com/ just another Chinese bike, or are they actually decent?

If it's a piece of poo poo, at least it's a good looking piece of poo poo.

those brakes look scary!

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


what precautions should I take to clean a rusty chain on the bike?
I've never had to park my bike outside before exposed to british winter elements, so I've never had a chain go rusty before! I'm guessing a stiff brush and a can of chain cleaner, but I don't know if there's anything specific I should do about the rusty bits. I think I'm going to switch to gear oil rather than spray wax too, and/or look into a scottoiler.

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


I'm pretty sure it's just surface rust, but there's a lot of it. I Might grab a picture later. I haven't got a paddock stand or center stand and I'm dealing with on-street parking so I can't get very intensive. I could ride it to the shop down the road, it's about due for a professional looking-over. Might look into getting ordering up a factory center stand and having them install it while it's there.

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


Simkin posted:

No, it's locked pretty firmly on the stand, but the weight is on the back wheel, rather than the front, so you can just fire the bike up, and drive away. It does involve a little bit of feathering the clutch, as you have to give the bike some impetus to get up and over the stand, which seems to imply that it's not going anywhere on its own.

one of the major benefits of a center stand is ease of chain maintenance, although that generally is a non-issue when it comes to BMWs. Weight on the back wheel kind of defeats the purpose.

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


also, make sure you're using flux-core solder or it won't stick to poo poo.

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


Sunny Sixkiller posted:

Sorry if this is too non-technical for the thread (I definitely didn't think it'd merit it's own post): I'm a filmmaker in Los Angeles looking to put together a trailer for a movie set in the 1950's. The movie has a ton of motorcycles involved. I want to make sure everything looks authentic/accurate in the trailer, but I'm having a tough time tracking down places that rent classic bikes for non-exorbitant prices.

I read recently that the motorcycle in the new Indiana Jones movie was actually a modern bike (gussied up a bit to look more 50's I guess- I think the hero bike was a 2007 Harley Softail Springer Classic).

Modern bikes are way easier and cheaper to rent, so I guess my question is: does anyone have any recommendations for modern bikes that could "pass" for vintage? It's for a trailer, so we're never going to be seeing the bikes super close or for an extended period of time-- I just need something with a convincingly old school "look" about it. Am I poo poo out of luck?

don't know what your budget is like but you could always look into getting your hands on some Royal Enfields.
Nothing more old-school than that, except maybe some Urals.
http://www.enfieldmotorcycles.com/

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


Colawa posted:

Do some stators come with a layer of coating around the wires, or does the one I just opened up have some serious issues going on? I've never done this before, but I don't know if it's supposed to look like it does or if there was too much oil in there and some weird reaction happened.. all the ones I see online have the shiny copper wires exposed.

Who loves charging problems?

the wires are usually coated in a clear lacquer. On a new stator, they'd look like bare shiny copper, but one that's been swimming in oil for a while, the lacquer browns up over time.

also, as a completely unsubstantiated rule of thumb, while the stator can be the cause of your charging problems, chances are it isn't. There isn't a whole lot that can go wrong with them.

Finger Prince fucked around with this message at 17:45 on Jun 28, 2009

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


What are some good nimble (and/or) touring bikes that are good for 2 up? Preferably something newer and fuel injected. I love the wide bars and easy handling of my Pegaso 650 and ideally I'd keep it, but I might sell it to add to the pot. This is all hypothetical musing, I don't even have a budget other than maybe up to £4-5000 or so.

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


Whiteboy posted:

Two questions.
First, my bike seems to kind of putter along and kind of jerk around a bit when I'm in second gear at 3k-5krpm. Should I be worried? It's not a huge deal to me and it only does it at this rpm range and only in second gear but could it be foreshadowing to a problem? (I don't think it's from me going too slow as I can putter around any gear without this problem, except second.)

Second, I have a stupid parking decal that I have to stick on my bike and I was wondering if there was a way I could put it on and easily take it back off after the semester. It's like those dirtbike registration stickers you stick on your forks but this one's for parking. Anyone know of a tip for making it easier to peel off after? Or should I just slap it on and worry about peeling it off later. I was going to just bolt on a quick bracket for it but I'm 90% sure someone would just unbolt it and steal my pass :(


Both are pretty stupid question so I'm going to say sorry and thanks ahead of time :)

for the first one, what kind of bike? Carbed or fuel injected? I'll take a wild guess and say fuelling problem. If it's carbureted, do something with jets or needles or pantyhose or whatever else you do to carbs. If FI, get a power commander if it's really bad or annoying, else, shift gears! :cheers:

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


Z3n posted:

Aprilia Futura?


Holy Turbo Boost, Kitt!

I never new this bike even existed, and apparently it can be had quite cheap too! Hmm, Italian (Ok, Rotax, so half Austrian) 1000cc V-twin tourer with hard bags and comfy for pillion? For £3-4000? Nice one Z3n!

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


Z3n posted:

Don't be a pansy (buy a supermoto instead and tour on that).

Win/win?

I'm currently loving this:

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/mcy/1604202601.html

there's been a Caponord in my local shop with an undiagnoseable starting/running/pick a cylinder electrical problem for probably over a year now. The owner left it with them to fix on their spare time. When I take mine in for it's spring checkup I'll see how they're coming along with it.

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


I've got Pilot Road 2 (dual compound) on my Pegaso. Compared to the old squared off Pirelli Diablos that came off, it's night and day. The bike leans in really easy but feels really linear throughout the lean angle. Masses of grip, and in a wet cold emergency stop, the tires didn't lock up at all.

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


Aargh posted:

How do people go about doing work on your bikes when you don't have a garage? For example I live in a townhouse in inner city Sydney, I park on the street and do not have rear lane access to my backyard. If I want to get the bike into the backyard I'd have to attempt to get it through the front gate, up the stairs (only one or two) to the front door, then wheel it through the house to the backyard. Do I just find a friend who has space I could use (none come to mind as they all live in the inner city too) or just go to a local park and set up shop in the carpark, or just pay someone else to do it?

minor stuff like chain lubing, washing, installing bits like ram mounts or whatever I do in the street, otherwise I put it in the shop for anything else.

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


Z3n posted:

Start with new battery, go from there. Low battery will gently caress things up and cause no end of weird symptoms, and a motorcycle doesn't charge from just running a little bit in the garage, the RPMs need to be up.

this is the weird thing about my bike... it does. The voltmeter shows 14.2 (or 14.7, something like that) at idle. I mean there's no reason why it shouldn't, but I always thought bike manufacturers just couldn't be arsed. Italian electrics :science:

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


Bugdrvr posted:

This Bandit 400 of mine is giving me fits. This is not nearly the first bike I've resurrected from the dead, but it is the most frustrating so far.

This thing refuses to run properly. I'll start it up and it will idle for a few seconds perfectly normal then die. After that, no amount of cranking will get the sumbitch to fire again. You have to leave it alone for a few hours and then go back to it (this happened last night on a date, not so cool getting a ride home from said date with helmet in hand and dumb look on face).
If however you do get it to start sometimes it runs perfectly for a little then will lose a cylinder. Maybe #1, maybe #2 or #4. Why? Who knows. The plugs look ok, the leads are sparking if unplugged from the dead cylinder when it's running. What the christ.
The carbs are clean and the idle screws are 1.5 turns out on each. Plugs look ok, if a bit dark though I've only ridden it maybe 10 miles since I bought it. Fuel is fresh though I do have an inline filter on it right now just to see if the tank is dirty (so far the filter has nothing in it). Can't think of what else to add to this.

I really don't know what is the deal with this little bastard. I had an easier time getting my CB350 running after it had been sitting since 1983. Or my '68 Triumph that had the float bowls eaten away from the stale gas sitting for so long. This thing has me stumped. I've dicked around with it a little every weekend but haven't put a ton of effort into it. After riding it around the block I've come to the conclusion that my long legs and ape arms are not going to work well with a bike designed for the Japanese market. I was planning on getting it running well then selling it in the spring. So far it's been thwarting my efforts.

Both of my bikes are being pains this week. I was out of town for a week and a half and the battery poo poo out on my GS too. After getting back from a week in the frozen Northeast all I want to do is go for a ride dammit!

I have a vague memory of reading something about this back when I was looking into Bandit 400s years ago. I can't remember where or what I read but I'll try to google-fu it. I think there's something to do with the carbs on that bike but I can't think what it is.

edit- can't find it, internet wayback machine for bandit alley doesn't find it either. If memory serves (and it usually doesn't) I vaguely recall something about the carbs being very tiny on the 400, small bowls or something, and fuel leaks into them?? somehow from somewhere?? But I don't know if this relates to your problems. Always helpful, as usual ;)

Finger Prince fucked around with this message at 10:54 on Feb 28, 2010

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


I'm seriously considering buying a flat where there's no parking either on the street or on the property, only on side streets around various corners.
Does anyone else have to cope with this? It's the only real stumbling block with the place. Right now I park right outside my flat and I pass the bike even if I'm walking somewhere and not using it. I'm not sure how I feel about not having the bike in visual range.

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


pr0zac posted:

Get comprehensive/theft insurance or buy a good lock and find something sturdy to lock it to. Basically all you can do. Really, anyone that has a bike whos loss would be a seriously crippling financial hit should have theft insurance.

yeah, I've always carried comprehensive, even if not for the crippling financial hit, just for the crippling pain in the rear end it mitigates. I had another look and where I'd park the bike is actually pretty secure in my mind. Plus my local dealer/shop is practically across the street so I can always pop in and get a new one!

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


Jabs posted:

Wow. From $130 in "Airline Carry-on" size? Really?

Awesome.

awesome until you realize they're heavy as gently caress and by the time you've packed an overnight bag and some dainty underthings in it, you've reached the weight limit (not that that's ever stopped anyone before).

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


Phy posted:

Anyone know an online tire store that will do cheap shipping to (or within) Canada?

where are you located? Rider's Choice in Toronto used to do untouchable deals on tires but I don't think they ship.

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


Jabs posted:

Since my (extremely low speed) off last fall, I've been suffering the same thing, but perhaps a bit worse. Since I lost it in a situation where I totally didn't expect to (the road was going from 'wet' to 'a bit damp', and I was slowing (1500ish RPM 2nd gear engine braking at ~10 mph) when the front wheel just fell out from under me), I've gone from "Aside from not having 4 wheels to balance on, motorcycles have grip levels similar to a car", to "They'll loving throw your rear end on the ground at the slightest provocation".

That made riding Z3N's SM perhaps rather less fun than it might have been. :(

If you're going to lose it, it's going to be in a situation you totally don't expect to. You don't go riding down the road and think "I'm totally going to lay it down at the next roundabout" and pat yourself on the back for your foresight when you do. When it's wet out you just have to take it super easy on the street because you never know what's under your tire. Paint, metal, wood, gravel, any of it can pucker your anus especially if you're not gentle with the front brake.

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:

You were right on the money. After getting it towed yesterday I tore the bike down to the frame and carbs (just because by then I decided that working on my bike was going to make me happier than making money at work that day) and discovered that:

1) My main fuse was done
2) The rectifier had burned the wires connected to it enough so that they melted the rubber insulation and contacted the frame. Whoops.

Changed out the fuse and cut out the offending wires to at least make sure the bike would run without that short, and it ran fine after that.

Ah well, at least I got some other stuff out of the way, like an oil change and adjusting the throttle play. I even got a preview as to what a pain in the rear end the carbs will be to remove, and holy gently caress the airbox must have 300 screws you have to gently caress with.

How difficult is it to change fork seals? That's my next project.

what year CBR? Similar sort of thing happened on my old '93 VFR, but it didn't blow the fuse. A bit of corrosion on the contacts leads to more resistance leads to more heat leads to more corrosion etc, etc, things melt, battery doesn't charge anymore, maybe rectifier finally kicks the bucket. Nice to know Honda has got their electrics sorted out :rolleyes:

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


other option would be to get something with linked brakes, like some Hondas and BMWs, or some sort of twist&go with pushbike style brake controls.

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


-Inu- posted:

What's the best method you guys have found for moving your body position from side to side on the bike quickly without putting any pressure on the bars? Whenever I take a left followed by a quick right or vice versa I wind up pushing/pulling on the bars and countersteering when I don't want to. I'm thinking about waxing the seat to make it easier to do without grabbing onto anything, heh.

if you put the same amount of pressure on both bars you won't steer anything and can shift your butt at will. It's one of those things like countersteering where I've never really thought about how I do it, I just do it. To my mind you don't put any pressure on the bars when you shift your butt around, but I guess you must have to somehow. :iiam:

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


Z3n posted:

Do squats. A lot of squats. It's all in leg muscle and ab/back muscles. You should give NO input to the bars unless you are turning them. Pushing them both will essentially lock up the suspension, preventing the bike from self correcting from small bumps. It is also helpful to lock your outside leg into the bike by locking it into the crook made by the peg and it's support.

Ideally, you should be able to transfer from side to side with your hands simply resting on top of the bars. It takes a lot of lower body and core strength.

maybe that's what I do? Use my lower body and whatnot. I don't think it takes a lot of core strength though. Perhaps seating geometry plays a large part.

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


I need to clean off some surface rust on a few of my chain links, and I might as well clean the whole thing before I re-lube it. I ordered a POR-15 starter kit to take care of a small gouge in my swingarm and it comes with the POR-15 Marine Wash. Would it be a Good Idea or Bad Idea to use this to clean my chain?

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


does anybody else accidentally leave their key in the ignition and walk away? Or am I just a massive idiot?

actually, probably best if you don't answer that.

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


Probably Hates You posted:

No, you're definitely not an idiot. I've actually seen this a couple of times. Twice I've waited by the bike to make sure the actual owner came for it. Luckily for them they came back to the bike within 5 minutes of me waiting. Any more and I probably would have just left; and once a neighbor did it. I pulled the keys out of his bike which was still running and knocked on his door. He had no idea what he had done.

I have had this done to me, bike parked outside the house for a couple of hours, someone knocks on the door with my keys in their hand. I've left them in the seat lock and gone for a walk (seat lock always gets me). Usually when I leave them in the ignition I realize within a couple hundred yards... usually.
I need a string run through my jacket to the keys like a kid with his mittens.

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


I'd just like to point out that this is the best bit of conversation in 245 pages of this thread.
And if you're in the kind of place that wild animals are going to attack you in your motorcycle gear, you're probably wearing a textile adventure suit. I think then even a large eagle could mortally wound you.

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


Can anyone tell me about Ktm superdukes? I have an opportunity to buy one from a guy at work's son. It's a 2005 with 8600 miles, fair weather ridden. Price would be £3800. How are they for all weather riding? Would it be foolish for commuting? I understand the early ones have a small tank, is it something that can be swapped for a later model tank without much bother?
Cheers

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


Spiffness posted:

I haven't heard the small tank complaints, but it's a pretty standard KTM issue. You're going to be refilling every 100 miles no matter how big the tank is because of how you're going to abuse that bikes throttle at every possibility. Go ride it, buy it, and give us the full report on it's awesomeness.

just something I read on the MCN review of it. It doesn't seem like something you'd change mid-model, but I know nearly nothing about Superdukes other than they look pretty sweet and have a big twin. If insurance isn't stupid I might take your advice.

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


Odette posted:

So I had my front brake pads replaced last year at 37,500km and I'm approaching 44,000km and a motorcycle mechanic friend commented on them the other day, "dude these are pretty low, keep an eye on them."

I do approximately 12,000km a year in a lot of lovely start/stop traffic & I'm pretty paranoid about cagers being dicks so I might just be a tad overzealous with the front brakes. Does 12,000km sound ... low? To me, it kinda does.

Also, my manual recommends 25/29 psi of air for tyres, yet the same friend is like "you can crank them up to 30/34" but I don't like doing this because I fill up at a service station and their tyre pressure gauges aren't exactly known for being accurate. I probably should just buy some pressure gauge and carry it around in my motorbike, right? :v:

whenever I get my bike back from the shop, the tires are always cranked way up in pressure. Must be an oldschool motorbike mechanic thing. I just let a little air out to set it to the recommended cold tire pressure (1.8/2.0 bar). I have a small dial type gauge that fits in my jacket pocket that I leave in there all the time.

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


ohwandernearer posted:

How anal do you guys get about the oil level in your sight glass? If I am over top mark by a mm or two, is it worth the effort to try and drain some out or should I just let it ride?

I accidentally overfilled my tank once, (like, to overflowing... poured too much too quickly). I drained as much out as I could with a straw and when it was back down to a readable level on the dipstick I just rode it off. No problems. I wouldn't worry about a couple of mm.

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


I got my cheque today from insurance, so I'll be out shopping for a new bike over the next couple of weeks. Whatever I get will likely be a little step up from the old Pegaso, and I'd like to do a bit better job of looking after it over winter. Unfortunately, I live in a top floor flat with no access to outside water, so washing the bike is a huge PITA, and really all I want to do is give it a rinse every few days through winter to keep the road salt from eating it.
Well I had a minor brainquake today, and thought of one of these type things:
http://www.hozelock.com/spraying/sprayers-plus/12l-pressure-sprayer-plus-4712.html


I've never used one before, but it looks like it could do the job, anyone have any experience with one? I'm probably about the 9000000th person to come up with this idea, then again, most bike owners probably have access to a hose and/or don't ride in the winter.

Finger Prince fucked around with this message at 20:11 on Sep 3, 2012

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


JP Money posted:

Why can't you just go to a car wash or use a friends driveway?

It's an alternative to the car wash, plus I'm not sure about the pressure of the jetwash wand, and something like a sprayer would pay for itself in a few months, or a few weeks if I got a cheap one. Also my friends don't have driveways either.

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


hmm... gonna need to get some beige coveralls too...

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


It does occasionally, but they tend to salt the roads her any time there's a risk it might drop below 5°C. I usually avoid riding when it's around zero and drizzling though because it isn't much fun and I can take the tube to work when it's poo poo out.

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


Saga posted:

Buy something with pre-furred fastners for an appropriate discount, wet with your turgid organ and douse liberally in Scottoiler FS365 on Saturday mornings:

http://www.scottoiler.com/uk/Lubes-Cleaners-Protectors/FS-365-Corrosion-Protector-5-Litre-Refill/flypage.tpl.html

Wash it in Spring.

e: and see

http://www.scottoiler.com/uk/products/scottoiler-fs-365.html

It's better than WD40 for corrosion proofing and better yet, if you put your pet marmoset in charge of bike cleaning and he liberally douses the brakes, tyres and seat, it washes off easily on initial application. It's also designed to build up so again apply a metric fuckton before they start to salt, then just apply more to the cases until about May.

I like this idea. I could even put it in the ghostbusters pack.

goddamnedtwisto
I'm in London but my commute is almost entirely the M4 to Heathrow which does get salty and is made worse by the road spray of a thousand Addison Lee Ford Galaxies headed to the airport.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


Frankston posted:

My headlight has dimmed to the point where I can't see anything at night-time, but it flashes occasionally to normal brightness. Is it most likely simply a low battery, or could it be an issue with the wiring or even just a bulb that needs replacing? It just hit 10k miles today. (I missed the turnover on the dial :()

Something wrong with your charging circuit, so your battery is running all your electrics which is draining it. A new battery won't fix it but you might need one if you find the fault. What bike do you ride again? Check the the wiring and connectors from your stator to your regulator/rectifier and from that to the battery for corrosion or arcing. If they look fine it'll probably be the regulator/rectifier that needs replacing. If you've got a multimeter and know how to use it, it'll make troubleshooting a whole lot easier.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply