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I'm working out my maintenance plan for a barely-ridden vanvan 200 I just bought with 350 miles on it, and trying to figure out how old to treat this thing in terms of fluid replacements. The nearest immediate concern brake fluid, which the service manual recommends replacing every 2 years. No indication from the PO of having serviced anything beyond an oil change a few months ago. I'm not sure what to make of this in terms of its practical age: -2018 model year -Title's "Odometer Date"= 9/3/2019 (2 miles) -Title "issue date"= 12/11/2020 -PO's wife put 350 miles on it, maybe some trail riding. What probably happened here? Did the bike first get its fluids around Sept. 2019, then sit at a dealership for a year and three months? Does brake fluid pick up moisture the same regardless of whether it's being used, and I should change it this spring?
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Dec 19, 2021 03:46
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Slavvy posted:That brake fluid is currently 50% water by weight, you should probably change it. Question about oil drain plug crush washers: On my car I replace one every oil change, but neither the Suzuki RV200 service manual nor parts diagrams I've found show an independent part for this. The bolt I see in one video looks like it has a crush washer, but it might be a part of the bolt and the guy ignores it. Is this something people don't routinely need to change unless replacing the bolt, or is it something so commonplace that they just don't mention it or specify a part for the vanvan? Remy Marathe fucked around with this message at 22:13 on Dec 27, 2021 |
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Dec 27, 2021 22:11
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I'd be fine with unnecessarily replacing a $0.10 washer once a year like on the car, but the SM for this bike doesn't even mention it so I think they're in full agreement with you. Does time/multiple crushings eventually gently caress them up? I'll just measure it next change so I can keep a spare on hand.
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Dec 28, 2021 00:31
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Yo I just want to say that I've been lurking this forum for a month now, and you and other longtime posters' responses to myriad questions old and new have been of great help to me as I returned to riding. This forum is the closest I've seen to the non-toxic community that beginnerbikers.org provided me many years ago (it looks mothballed and hosed up these days) in terms of practical advice and appropriately placed idiot-checks, and I appreciate it.
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Jan 1, 2022 02:52
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Depends on what you're trying to do but if you were doing a beginnerbikers.org impersonation you'd type in all caps without punctuation and be a 90 yo man from rural Canada with questionable politics speaking in unintelligible diatribes which we would pick through for bits of mechanical wisdom.
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Jan 1, 2022 04:14
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I'm removing the gas tank for the first time on my VanVan 200 to do valve clearance checks, wondering if anyone has a forecast of how much gas I'll drop in the process or suggestions about my spill containment plan here? I'm working in the street and mean to be a good citizen. The manual simply says to turn the fuel valve off and disconnect the fuel line (1). I'm thinking if I keep a rag under it while I disconnect it at the valve end (and a big towel on the ground), I can drain the little bit that's in the hose to a container then bag and tie it. Remy Marathe fucked around with this message at 20:58 on Jan 8, 2022 |
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Jan 8, 2022 20:55
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Thanks all and noted about the ziptie trick. Today might be a full abort until I've identified my full and actual fuel routing, the SM I'm using covers many VanVans, and either the 2018 model or the california evap system means there's no fuel shutoff where pictured, and gently caress if I can find one yet. I'll need to pick up a fuel can if I have to drain the whole tank.
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Jan 8, 2022 23:23
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At least the 200cc vanvans 2016-18 are EFI (this is an '18). I've got about a gallon in the tank and I haven't learned yet which hose is which on any bike for over a decade (and only 1 before that), so if I do fall back to guess-and-check I want to at least make sure I have a clean fuel can on standby instead of a water bottle so I can pour it back in when I'm done. The CA evap system doesn't help, makes everything more crowded in there. Remy Marathe fucked around with this message at 23:38 on Jan 8, 2022 |
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Jan 8, 2022 23:34
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Okay here's what I think I'm looking at after factoring out the breather/evap system and looking at some more diagrams: 1-One short line from tank to fuel filter, no shutoff, I'm going to have to just rapidly swap in a zip-tied hose to cap this right? 2-The fuel filter has a third mystery output that goes up and crosses the body to a 3-way join, which connects to both the tank and the fuel injector. Still trying to figure out if the section between tank and join will be vapor or fuel, but it looks like it's all a vapor return. Remy Marathe fucked around with this message at 01:20 on Jan 9, 2022 |
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Jan 9, 2022 00:50
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Sorry, not sure if these'll help and not sure how to attach more than one at a time. A) Comes from the fuel tank to the fuel filter B) Continues to what I'm calling the fuel injector C) Is the mystery line X) is the overflow/evap line nobody invited
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Jan 9, 2022 02:51
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This is what I'm calling the fuel injector.
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Jan 9, 2022 02:52
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This next one is on the right side of the bike. EDIT: This pic was mislabeled. The leftmost hose is what crosses over and hits this "T" junction, "C" here is not actually hose C, but rather goes to the FI. The right-hand branch heads into the tank. Remy Marathe fucked around with this message at 01:25 on Jan 10, 2022 |
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Jan 9, 2022 02:54
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4th and last: This is the SM description that seems to indicate this is a vapor return to me. (C) in previous pics corresponds to the line hitting the 3-way split indicated with (1) I also just discovered a page in the SM that describes draining the tank before removal which supersedes my original instructions. You're probably more familiar with this than I am, but this service manual starts out with the basic stuff that applies to most, then provides revisions for various versions each of which say "if unspecified, follow instructions for the previous model". Remy Marathe fucked around with this message at 03:00 on Jan 9, 2022 |
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Jan 9, 2022 02:57
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Thanks for all the info. Confirmed, the 3-way juncture goes into the topside of the fuel injector. My previous pic of the right-hand side was incorrectly labeled; hose "C" from the fuel filter was actually the leftmost line in that picture, and the one I mislabeled "C" was what goes to the FI. A better and corrected pic of that below. If you're curious I can scan the relevant SM diagram but I think I have an idea of how to proceed now, clamping the two tank hoses discussed. This isn't emergency work- checking valve clearance is the last thing left on my 620mi service, and from what I gather it's very unlikely they'll actually need adjusting. It'll have to be next weekend now at the soonest, so if waiting for actual line clamps like you linked (these maybe) will make the job easier or less prone to fuckups I'm all about that. I went backwards page-by-page to find the most specific tank removal instructions and they say to: 1) Drain out fuel 2) Place a rag under the hose joint and disconnect the fuel hose 3) Disconnect the fuel level switch lead wire coupler 4) Remove tank bolts 5) Disconnect the (other?) fuel hose [pic that looks nothing like my bike] Remy Marathe fucked around with this message at 01:28 on Jan 10, 2022 |
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Jan 10, 2022 01:23
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That's an extremely attractive idea, it did look like I could get at the exhaust valve without pulling the tank.
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Jan 10, 2022 01:47
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Commutes & familiar runs are also notorious for letting bad habits and weak spots go unchecked because they're predictable 90% of the time and you unconsciously work around them. As I'm relearning, I'm finding I develop much more during free-form weekend rides than the commute. Low-speed I'm not yet remotely comfortable with on this bike yet, so I stop off at a parking lot on the way back from work to do some low-speed figure eights. This usually goes: unconfident & sloppy->unconfident and smooth->confident, dizzy & sloppy, and that's when it's time to continue home. I should be doing some more consistent, planned and repeated panic stop drills instead of the random ones I do when I have a clear view and no cars around. I've been close to highsiding in the past, and the one time on this new bike that I intentionally pushed the rear till it locked, sure enough I did the wrong thing (released it). Wasn't a big deal because it was intentional and therefore didn't lock till I was only going a few mph.
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Jan 10, 2022 21:29
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My bike has had a couple of disconcerting things happen now when the outside temp is warmer: 1) It failed to start once after work (cold engine, maybe 65-70F ambient); the starter sounded like it was working full-strength and I laid on it 3 times as long as usually necessary, but it still didn't grab and start. When I tried again right away, it hesitated another moment then started, either because I gave it a bit of throttle or just because of the re-try. This was the warmest day the bike had seen while I've owned it, and it's been otherwise starting right up like a champ. No issues on any of the cold mornings (45-50F). 2) Now today, another warmer day, the idle speed was oscillating oddly after I started it, and it later died at a stoplight. It started right back up, and the idle speed seems to be behaving normally again. Here's what I know: -this is a fuel-injected 200cc Sukuki VanVan with <700 miles on it -The PO had it for 350 of those miles and based on our conversation was unlikely to have done anything weird to it yet. -I have not dicked around with the valves yet, but otherwise it's been though a full (if inexpert) visual inspection by me and it's by all appearances "like new". -Excepting today's weird oscillation, the idle speed has been consistent, was just checked by me last week and registered dead center of the specified range at 1500 RPM. Based on past experience with a car I'm guessing I should more closely examine the air intake system for any cracks or oddities, any other suggestions? This may be where I eventually eat my words in the "recommend me a bike" thread and need to bring it to someone who can work on fuel injectors.
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Jan 12, 2022 23:53
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Slavvy posted:As it stands, it sounds like it's got a borderline tune due to emissions fuckery. Would you mind elaborating on this, and will it just be a weird issue at random transition points of temperature states? And Is this something that a skilled mechanic might be able to revert to, say, the global population it was made for?
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Jan 13, 2022 03:13
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Thanks much, I actually feel better knowing there's a more plausible explanation than physical fault. I'll be curious to see just how often and persistently these things crop up, it's seen a fair bit of use this last month and runs great most days.
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Jan 13, 2022 03:34
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This is definitely abnormal for a drum brake push rod, right? Having never owned a drum brake I'd taken it for an intentionally offset thing, but the rear brake gives an awkward kunk sometimes the first time I use it on a ride. This was someone's first bike and the chain was way loose when I got it, so a picture is starting to form.
Remy Marathe fucked around with this message at 07:17 on Jan 30, 2022 |
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Jan 30, 2022 04:53
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Tomorrow I'll be checking out an '03 Kawasaki ZRX1200R, and if I decide to pull the trigger I might have the Yamaha dealership put tires on it before riding it back next week (they're 10 years old, so it's that or renting a trailer). Any tire recommendations for general street use?
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Feb 25, 2022 21:31
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I take it the heavy is preferable to balance out the faster wear in the rear?
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Feb 26, 2022 03:46
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More questions than answers! I'm trying to translate Triumph's exploded parts diagrams into meatspace here to get the torque values, I've circled two pinch bolts I have to remove to take off the PO's windscreen mount. Am I correct that the top guy is on the "upper yoke" and the lower, the "lower yoke"? If that's the lower yoke, FSM says to "Fit new fixings if loosened or removed". Serious steering thing not to be hosed with, or absurd manufacturer policy? Remy Marathe fucked around with this message at 17:43 on Apr 6, 2022 |
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Apr 6, 2022 17:36
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Slavvy posted:You'll be fine to put them back in but I'd be concerned that they're not original. You've managed to take the picture in a way where it's really hard to tell what's actually going on, but if it works how I think it does, I suspect those bolts will be too long to use when the screen bracket isn't there. Sorry that pic was for my purposes, here's closer but I still can't tell how deep the bolt well is. Washer(s) as a spacer maybe? Left is lower, right is upper:
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Apr 6, 2022 20:26
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Thanks Slavvy, I'll have to wait and see what I find when I get in there later. Worst case I might do something ugly and pick up OEM parts next time I'm near the dealership. Those pinch-bolt mounted brackets are for the Madstad, but the Triumph screen's mount points are elsewhere- the lower mount support is installed behind the regulator/rectifier, and the upper part bolted into the upper yoke. I'd hoped to keep the Madstad mounts in place yesterday, but they are in the way of the upper support bar reaching the yoke.
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Apr 6, 2022 21:13
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Trip report: The bottom bolt was stock, there is a recess like you described just not very obvious in the pic. The top bolt was aftermarket with a spacer, duller and ridged on the outside. I'm glad you put me on that train of thought, the PO gave me a bag with 4 bolts labeled "stock Triumph handlebars" (he also added risers), 2 of which were suspiciously shiny like the lower set and the exact length and type needed up top after removing spacer and mount plate. In the course of installation, I saw from the underside where he had replaced those two bolts holding the handlebars on. His two bolt heads are looking rusty, but I don't really want to gently caress with it, I like the bar positions as they are.
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Apr 7, 2022 02:32
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Renaissance Robot posted:Battery size is mostly about being able to work the starter I think, when it comes to electric accessories it shouldn't matter because they'll all be running off the surplus current from the alternator. So is alternator surplus generally more than enough for whatever reasonable doodads you might add, there's no surplus budget to worry about?
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Apr 12, 2022 02:57
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This video gave me both a crush on Ari Henning and a good tip about using a rag to kick the wheel forward https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RA6OPG_cFms
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Apr 24, 2022 04:51
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You're calibrated through experience. I know about an inch of play when I see it now, but before that I needed to learn what was normal. Like I know most people don't pull out a torque wrench for everything, but doing that has taught me at least 3 levels of tight (hand, regular tight and big-loving-lever tight) and rough numbers they correspond to, where there used to be only 1 level of tight (the one where you shear off an oil filter cap bolt because you're a cave man).
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Apr 24, 2022 05:25
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The left rear shock on my '20 Bonneville has the preload adjuster toward the inside of the bike (pictured below is the right-hand side with it facing out). It's still adjustable on the left, but way easier to scrape my knuckles on spokes etc. 1) Is there anything to worry about if I removed and rotated the shock 180 degrees? 2) The FSM tells me to throw away both mounting bolts and replace them if I do this. Throwing away bolts is definitely a theme with this bike. Realistically, am I fine reusing these a few times provided proper torque and some threadlock?
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May 18, 2022 20:29
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Thanks, that proved easier than expected and now that I've found some pics of other Bonnevilles was almost certainly a correction of PO fuckery. He'd been considering installing some shorter shocks that he passed on to me, suspect he got past the "considering" part.
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May 18, 2022 23:43
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Is there anything to be wary of regarding adhesive tank protectors? I'm not keen on the aesthetics but the SO is endangering the tank pretty bad every mount/dismount. I don't want to do more harm than good though if the sun's going to fade the Triumph's paint around it or I won't be able to remove it cleanly with goo gone some day, maybe scratches are preferable.
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Jun 3, 2022 20:16
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Smaller, one of the pads with adhesive backs, you see cheapies more often with aggressive position bikes, this is the one I’m heading for https://shop.triumphcleveland.com/store/#!/Triumph-Self-Adhesive-Durable-Rubber-Tank-Pad-A9790140/p/125972557
Remy Marathe fucked around with this message at 01:46 on Jun 4, 2022 |
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Jun 4, 2022 00:58
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Gorson posted:Yeah, to me it's like putting one of those plastic covers on your couch.
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Jun 5, 2022 04:48
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So, uh, what's a paint-safe way to remove a tank pad you wasted $40 on by applying before fully acknowledging the long-term consequences? I should've just held onto it for after the tank gets scratched up, if that actually happens. It's time to wax the tank now and I hate the idea of neglecting that beautiful frost paint under the pad. Dental floss/fishing line sounds like one part of the equation. I see people mention WD40 or goo-gone but I'm gun-shy about remover agetns as I just removed an "I Voted" sticker from my otherwise beautiful top box using a Mr. Clean magic eraser and it left the black plastic chalky.
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Jun 12, 2022 19:05
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I got all geared up for a fight with that tank pad only to have it peel off easily with all the adhesive remaining pad-side when I got out there. It was so anti-climactic that I went after the VanVan's tank warning sticker, and got it down to the nice shiny black base finish (thank god it was under there).opengl128 posted:Magic erasers are abrasive, basically really really fine foam sandpaper.
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Jun 13, 2022 15:00
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builds character posted:fwiw, I’ve read oven cleaner and it worked on not-chrome but I don’t know about chrome. Oven cleaner worked very well for me on chrome to remove melted bike cover, but I ended up wishing I'd been way way WAY more paranoid about overspray and covering the rest of the bike with wet rags before I started, because the fine mist also permanently etched the aluminum engine.
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Jun 21, 2022 15:04
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I think I'm wrong about my VanVan's factory chain, which a hasty search when I bought it convinced me was an O-ring but I wonder if that was confirmation bias in hindsight. I only just learned of the existence of small street bikes that don't come with them. Any advice on tracking down a chain's specifications or how the model number breaks down? I'm having trouble finding details on what my OM declares to be a 110-link "DID520DMA4", even on DID's website. The closest I've got is a table that doesn't list it, unless the "DMA4" part of the name should be ignored and this is just a "DID520"? It is a small bike, table says small bike? https://didchain.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/2020-Chain-Spec-Chart.pdf I've been gaining an inch of slack roughly every 400 miles(!). Have been tightening the axle nuts to the specified 48 ft-lb and the adjustment nuts reasonably tight. It's due again, and I should be able to measure how much it's stretched since I got it. I also plan to bang on the tire with a mallet to make sure it's solidly against the spacers, but if that's been my problem I would expect the sag to reappear sooner.
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Aug 6, 2022 04:15
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It's not the length that's throwing me, it looks like that's just a matter of getting the right tool, I just can't figure out whether I have an o-ring chain and something's fucky with my tensioning, or I have a non-o-ring that I've been failing to oil on the reg that should be replaced asap anyway, because who wants a chain that has to be tightened every 400mi. If I measure the 20-pin length and there's a noticeable amount of stretch in the last 1200 miles, can I assume it's a garbage chain? e; alternate possibility, my failure to oil it regularly has in fact MADE it stretch and it would've lasted way longer?
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Aug 6, 2022 05:34
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I have apparently never looked that closely at my chains, because I never took the ring to be visible, thought it was inside the barrel or whatever. I will take a magnifying glass out there tomorrow.
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Aug 6, 2022 05:42
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