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Thanks y'all, trip report: Derp. It is a non-O-ring chain on the VanVan (and 110 links confirmed). Now that I know where I'm looking I can plainly see the O-rings for comparison on the T120's chain. Lubed and tightened Vanvan's chain to ~ 0.75" play, rode it briefly to warm it up, re-lubed found it at 1" so tightened it up again. I'll keep a closer eye on it and lube it more regularly till I get around to installing a lower maintenance chain, I've been giving it the Maxima O-ring Neglect treatment so far. No sign of loose engine mounts. The 20-pin count hasn't changed a bit in the last 1200 miles by my records, that doesn't seem consistent with the idea that it's been stretching. But everything else suggests this is normal chain behavior given what it is 
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Aug 6, 2022 22:50
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I pulled that pin counting thing from the FSM, but on re-read I just did it wrong and should've measured 21 pins, not 20, and can't say for sure whether I did it right during my post-purchase inspections. From the earlier section of the FSM that pertains to older VanVans with DID 428 chains: quote:Count out 21 pins (20-pitch) on the chain [and] measure the distance between the two points. If the distance exceeds the service limit, the chain must be replaced. The specification table in the newer section that pertains more specifically to my 2018's chain gives a "20pitch length" of 12.57 inches. Adjusting for the fact that I should've measured one more pin earlier, mine's around 12.25" right now.
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Aug 6, 2022 23:46
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Supradog posted:What ARE you talking about? Hey man, nobody's freaking out here. I was trying to solve why my chain needed adjustment every 400 miles, answer being I made a stupid assumption early on and it wasn't an O-ring chain. My next plan is indeed to buy a DID 520VX3-110 steel X-ring chain off of Amazon and figure out how to remove or cut off the old one, which shouldn't be hard. I wasn't really planning at this point to change the sprockets, because I assumed the "replace them as a set" advice is based on longer-life O-ring or X-ring chains, and not this failchain on sprockets that only have 1700 miles on them and don't really show any significant signs of wear. Remy Marathe fucked around with this message at 00:46 on Aug 7, 2022 |
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Aug 7, 2022 00:43
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Ideally one that doesn't touch down before the pegs on one side. and OK I'm fully sold on preemptively doing the front sprocket and maybe the back when I get to it, didn't realize they were reasonably cheap.
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Aug 8, 2022 00:16
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The VanVan's calls for 91 octane too, I feel suspicious every time I fill up, but the FSM and OM agree and I am not a chemical scientist. e; ^^^^^^^ ah, that's an explanation.
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Aug 12, 2022 05:56
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KidDynamite posted:if my friends all have sena's theres no point to a slightly better cardo right?
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Aug 24, 2022 04:13
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A very specific question follows, because I'm not yet ready to throw up my hands and give y'all the whole spiel necessary for effective help on a stalling problem the VanVan has been having. Is there any way in which an overtightened drive chain could lead to an engine suddenly stalling under load, sudden death followed by un-ignited engine braking with the F.I. light blinking in pain? It's happened 3 times in the last ~90 miles, before and after trail ride in which I dropped it, in a broad range of ambient conditions. The one change I made immediately before onset was tightening the chain while warm, leaving it really tight when cold.
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Aug 27, 2022 19:02
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Thanks, I figured it was a longshot. This morning I wiggled all the wires I could get to without removing the tank with it running (battery contacts included) and remain unable to reproduce it, so next up I guess I keep riding it hoping for the fault and leaving big slow safety margins in my turns. Hope this doesn't end with me learning to use a multimeter.
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Aug 27, 2022 23:50
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I'm the proud owner of this little poo poo, but my grasp of electricity is nonexistent, so its uses for me thus far have been to confirm the death of1.5v batteries and to guestimate 12V battery health using the 50V range.
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Aug 28, 2022 01:39
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Trying to reproduce an issue I want to get my bike really hot, but safely- so I'd like to know the difference in sound between mashing it and murdering it on a 2018 Suzuki VanVan 200. I've got an inductive tach I can tape on for a while, but I can't find a published redline for the bike. Anyone got an educated guess or rule of thumb for 200cc air cooled bikes like the RV200?
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Oct 15, 2022 05:30
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Maybe? Can that get it hotter than moving around under load, like WOT for a few miles and generally shifting late over a half hour ride?
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Oct 15, 2022 06:18
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To be honest I have no idea where to take this troubleshooting, bad ckp was a theory you posited previously but I can't even tell you whether the RV200 has one yet. I do know this thing has made daily commuter rides since last winter without issue, but on some of the longer and more spirited rides this summer I had 4 sudden stalls at speed, so I want to make it recur and hope to find a pattern. I had a theory that it was a bad tank of gas since 3/4 of the stalls were within the same batch, but then I had a stall on the next batch from another gas station after a healthy dose of seafoam in the tank. I also wonder if 92 octane in California, which the OM calls for, because it is a much lesser-used octane, might be more prone to getting lovely/old gas. I'm just shaking chickens at it because the problem disappears as quick as it pops up. Remy Marathe fucked around with this message at 06:34 on Oct 15, 2022 |
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Oct 15, 2022 06:32
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Well the last at-speed stall was only maybe 50 miles ago so I don't feel like I'm out of the woods. It ran like 430mi-1730mi without issue, then 4 sudden stalls while in motion during the last 300 miles. So I guess it could be environmental, summer gas quirks with a fuel injected bike with California emissions fuckery, maybe something that has just cropped up, though there were no material changes that should've caused mechanical issues. The first stall was not long before I dropped it on the trail, which is lucky or I'd be focused on the idea that the impact led to this. Idle's set with a screw, and I've seen recommendation to turn that up slightly as it has a tendency (confirmed) to drop out and die at idle sometimes. That's only happened a few times here and there, so I've ignored it and assume it can only address issues at idle.
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Oct 15, 2022 07:01
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The stalls I'm worried about happen out of the blue while under throttle, though it took 3 failures for me to be sure of that. Within the last 2 months & 300 miles: #1- Going 20mph in ~2nd gear, varying speeds climbing a twisty hill toward a trail, under load at the moment I'm pretty sure. #2- Home stretch of that same ride in 1st gear, possible that it had dropped to idle. Hot desert day. #3- Climbing a hill at 50mph in 5th gear, steady throttle, was just starting to think about downshifting but it wasn't quite struggling. Got there via a spirited ride (I was late), cool damp morning. #4- Going 30mph on level ground, on a hot summer day, after couple miles WOT on the highway and some unnecessarily high RPMs for a few blocks. When it stalls it's just a sudden kunk as the engine cuts out and engine braking begins. No apparent reignition during the engine braking, it's not sputtering it's just dead with the FI light flashing while I pull the clutch in and head for the shoulder. It started right back up right away the first two times, required a few minutes pause before it would start on the third. Runs without issues outside the 4 stunning failures*. It's been suggested that I try an inline spark tester, which seemed futile since I can't get it to stay broken long enough to attach something, but if I can get it hotter just idling after a ride then maybe I can make that work. I guess I'll need to turn the idle screw up anyway for that test. * The other oddity, also recent, was when the idle speed became bizarrely high mid-ride. loving around with throttle did nothing, throttle cable not caught or pinched. Turned the bike off and on again, right back to normal. Maybe I should start a thread for my haunted bike.
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Oct 15, 2022 16:54
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In theory yes, is part of what I'm hoping to catch with an intentional reproduction, but I haven't been able to so far. Failures 1,2 & 4 seemed to be a steady flashing on and off of the FI light, and ceased before I brought the bike to a stop. Failure 3, the time it wouldn't start right away (turned over but no ignition), I had pulled over, turned it off and back on again, and it threw a complicated signal that I'm pretty sure was a code. I didn't catch it though and when I retried a few minutes later it started right up. Supposedly you can use a wire to short two pins on the 6-pin Suzuki diagnostic port to get it to display these coded flashes, but that hasn't worked so far, it looks like it has no storage and needs to be actively experiencing the fault to do that. I also bought a cheap 6-pin to OBD2 adapter like this, but I'm not sure that's expected to work and my passively powered OBD2 reader remains dead on it: 
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Oct 15, 2022 17:42
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Could vacuum buildup in the tank cause such sharp & discrete failures on a FI bike, without the bike also running like poo poo sometimes? It's not something I had considered, but there's at least a loose correlation between ride duration and its appearance (though I've also had a few long rides recently without it cropping up). My "breather hole" is a byzantine California style system designed to recapture evaporative emissions. People like to delete them, but I'm not sure if that might gently caress with the fueling as programmed. I'll definitely examine it for blockages, maybe I pinched something back when I took off the tank.
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Oct 15, 2022 19:19
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The Fuel injected VanVan 200: I raised my idle speed with the adjustment screw, and instead of just raising the idle floor it ALSO caused it to drop more slowly to idle sometimes and sticks high on occasion. Going from 1500 to 1600 idle speed seems to have made my previously rare high idle problem show up more, going even higher assures it. No evidence of throttle cable involvement. Is the bike just programmed for a specific idle speed and I’m messing with where it lands on some fixed curve?
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Oct 22, 2022 22:40
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While I work on what an idle air control valve is and whether I have one, here's the TB area from the right, the screw I adjusted is just left of the throttle line. Near as I can tell it just mechanically limits the closure of the throttle. e; I see I robbed you of the fuel injector, which is top-right
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Oct 23, 2022 00:16
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And yerp, it looks like I do have one (#6 below) along with some advice for inspecting it in the FSM.
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Oct 23, 2022 00:26
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So if I understood your words correctly I can actually make it idle richer by backing off the original setting? Ugh now I wish I'd been less cavalier about counting my rotations when I turned it up. edit: Okay I got it hot, backed the idle air bypass screw out to roughly where it started (fingers crossed) and then a little further. As you indicated, instead of the throttle just continuing down it maintained roughly 1500RPM. Thanks much, I think I might be back to one problem on this bike. Remy Marathe fucked around with this message at 01:41 on Oct 23, 2022 |
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Oct 23, 2022 00:28
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My multimeter adventure has begun, starting with the CKP sensor which may or may not be making GBS threads the bed when it's hot. 220 miles and counting without a sudden stall, but it's been cooler out. -The CKP Sensor resistance at the coupler under the seat read 130 Ω consistently, specification says it should be 180-280 Ω. I later discovered the ohms adjuster, so I need to re-measure, but if it's still out of spec is that an automatic replace? -I'm also directed to measure CKP peak voltage ~2V when cranking the engine. How do you know whether you're measuring AC or DC current? The bike's been running well since my last idle adjustment, so I'm not motivated enough to take off the IAC valve yet. I would like my monkeying with the throttle stop not to have any negative impacts but haven't been able to spot a TPS calibration procedure in the manual, maybe it's self-calibrating? The TPS is part of this combined IAP/TP/IAT sensor below (intake air pressure/throttle position/intake air temperature).
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Oct 30, 2022 03:06
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Awesome, thanks for the info. This is going to be a son of a bitch to run down given how rare and transient it is.
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Oct 30, 2022 03:47
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Is a Triumph Bonneville dumb euro poo poo? Because I have the same question, the abs cycle was really the only reason I had it flushed at a dealership when I bought it. It took me like a half hour to figure out what the service manual was talking about, basically bleed, wiggle the abs, bleed it again using a double batch of brake fluid.
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Nov 5, 2022 04:05
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The justifications for ABS cycling I read weren’t about air bubbles so much as the fluid in the closed circuit just getting older and more waterlogged with age. I wondered at the time how water would GET into that closed circuit but figured the same could be asked of brake fluid in general, which obviously manages to go bad e; I guess triggering the abs when the fluid is janky would get it in there Remy Marathe fucked around with this message at 21:22 on Nov 5, 2022 |
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Nov 5, 2022 21:09
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I'm about ready to put an X-ring chain on the vanvan and swap the sprockets, two things I'm not sure about going in: -The nut on the drive sprocket has a folded washer. Is there a "right" way to deal with that? I'm planning on using some combination of screwdriver, pliers and chisel to fold it back, then fold the opposite lip when it goes back on. -I can't find a torque spec for re-tightening the drive sprocket. I've got torque spec tables out the wazoo in the manual, but nothing under chassis or engine resembles "Engine sprocket nut" or "Front sprocket nut" etc. Is this one you just crank on, to like 100ft-lb or something?
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Nov 6, 2022 16:47
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Merci! e; and there it is, last line on the first page of "Engine installation" that I thumbed through 3 times last night. Remy Marathe fucked around with this message at 17:52 on Nov 6, 2022 |
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Nov 6, 2022 17:47
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My tank protector application on the triumph was off-center by a few millimeters, just enough for the brain to sense, it was unbearable.
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Dec 7, 2022 03:54
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I oil all my leathers, belts included.
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Dec 16, 2022 07:26
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Slavvy posted:There really is a bizarre compulsion to do things in a complex and inefficient way isn't there
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Dec 17, 2022 01:44
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I wrote "super expired" on mine with a big fat magic marker, so any trash-fishers knew what they were getting into.
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Dec 26, 2022 03:27
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Same. On the gas topic, is there any problem with storing an emptied gas can for long periods, in terms of things like the stale remnants getting into the next batch you put in it? I've got a 1gallon tank that rarely gets used for long VanVan excursions, and I prefer to keep it empty because its other purpose is having something to drain the tank into if I need to.
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Jan 10, 2023 16:43
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OK that's good to hear. I've absolutely been overthinking the potential for bad gas, having seen many random internet posters calling out California gas as particularly prone to bad batches, and being shocked by how short the supposed shelf life is (< 1 year) versus growing up with cans just hanging out in the garage for years and nobody giving it a thought when we'd dump it into the mower.
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Jan 11, 2023 02:50
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Welp my '18 VanVan 200 (fuel injected, California market) just acted up again Thursday with the rarer of its quirks. It's only got 2600 miles on it, mostly from this last year and a half, and in that time it's only done this surging throttle thing to me 2 or 3 times (another rider's video): https://www.facebook.com/894950384/videos/963218631513037/ I started off, lurched for half a block before deciding that yeah something was definitely fucky and it wasn't my grip, turned it off, turned it back on and then it ran me home normally. No FI light or codes. These weird faults seem to happening around sudden weather warmups to a balmy 76F but that could still be coincidence considering how rare they are. They don't persist after powering off for a minute and starting it back up. I'm going to remove and inspect the IAC valve next chance I get, as I planned to do this next time it cuts out on me at speed (a DIFFERENT extremely intermittent fault). While I'm removing the tank, any other ideas? These were Slavvy's spitballs regarding the at-speed cutoffs, in case the above surging might stack: slavvy posted:CKP faulty, fuel pump relay faulty, kill switch/stand interlock circuit (disable all this poo poo if you haven't already), some California emissions madness I'm totally unfamiliar with, ignition coil faulty, ECU or it's power circuit faulty. I have not disabled the kill switch/sidestand stuff yet, considering excising that that and the CA evaporative system after I figure out what side effects the latter will have. Remy Marathe fucked around with this message at 20:09 on Feb 11, 2023 |
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Feb 11, 2023 20:07
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Given you have an MSF available, I’d double check that they supply the beater beater bikes, do the class ASAP because it’s fun as hell, and you’ll get a tiny bit of experience before any big spending. Has anyone here known someone to regret the beginner ridercourse?
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Feb 13, 2023 21:33
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What kind of janky-rear end state can't unequivocally define and communicate a legal path to training and motorcycle ownership? FFS that makes me genuinely mad.
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Feb 15, 2023 04:41
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Nope your choices are moto-bro, stud slut or tough pool player, in black or random color of availability. Shoulder, elbow and back armor are all good to have in a crash and you're likelier to find that in the moto-bro stuff. Ruckus speeds don't change that recommendation, my daughter's boyfriend just shattered his elbow getting off an e-bike at < 20mph earlier this month, a jacket with elbow armor would probably have saved him a surgery. There's a good gear discussion thread here, one common thing to consider off the bat is what range of temperatures you'll be wearing it in: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3938267
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Feb 19, 2023 06:22
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I'd like to replace the stock Pirelli Phantom Sportscomps on my Triumph Bonneville T120 this spring, a little earlier than necessary- there's a good chance the only gain will be placebo effect and a fresh profile, but there's something I've never quite liked about the way they feel or transition into leans. Stock are apparently bias in the front (100/90-18) and radial in the rear (150/70-17). The Facebook T120 hivemind seems to be of the opinion that it's a good idea to replace that front bias tire with a tubed radial, and go from 100/90-18 to 110/80-18. Does that collective take hold water? E: vvvvvvv thanks for the sanity check, I think a thousand FB posters might agree on something and still be entirely wrong. Remy Marathe fucked around with this message at 16:24 on Mar 1, 2023 |
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Mar 1, 2023 07:37
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I'd be afraid to be a big part of the reason someone got into riding because if they hosed up, or a car hosed them up, I'd feel an entirely irrational level of guilt. My best friend was maybe 20% of why I started and you should've see him sweat the first time I crashed, lol
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Mar 3, 2023 05:35
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Invalido posted:I have never sold a motorcycle before. I feel sad about selling my learner bike and I kind of don't want to do it because it's a nice motorcycle and I like it. Is this a normal feeling? Will I miss this bike for the rest of my life once it's gone? (I only have space for one bike so keeping it around isn't a good option and I'd rather ride the new SV650 but I rode the little Honda today and it's just nice. Also so very familiar). I'm a pretty sentimental dude who spent years on my first bike, swore up and down it could do everything well enough, and anyway I could not afford more bike. When I sold it I had a really hard time watching it ride away without me. It helped that it went to a new rider who was excited about it, as well as by the fact that I was relieved not to have an unused bike slowly corroding in my carport. But still it was a really sad day. I have often wondered what its fate was, and it remains beautiful and awesome in my memory, but what I later missed was riding, not that specific bike. When I started back up I ended up with one bigger bike, one smaller bike, and they are both more fun and good at what they do than my learner was. Yes I could ride the GS500e adequately on gravel, but the Vanvan is sooo much more light and competent at it, I can take it into OHV trails, and I had no idea what I was missing. I don't miss the 500cc on country highways at 75mph, it was adequate, but it was not relaxing, and in crosswinds something heavier's been really nice. so this moxieman posted:
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Apr 10, 2023 15:29
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Fluffs IANA physical therapist, but the part you seem most concerned about, using your foot to raise a motorcycle that's leaned over, seems almost impossible for anyone to gauge because depending on the lean angle it spans all the way from very little weight when it's balanced, all the way to the tipping point where nobody will safely arrest its fall and a 100% healthy foot could get injured in the effort. Obviously you aren't lifting all 400lbs of the bike during normal use, and I wonder if there's a mathematical way to gauge how much effective weight you are lifting from a sidestand angle and then round up. Also everyone has a point where they have to abandon saving the bike from a tip following a mistake and instead get out of its way, and maybe your point should be never trying to save it. So I really have no idea, but if I were in your shoes and everyone else was also shrugging at me, I'd maybe aim for the point when I could do free-standing calf raises in arbitrary number without pain or fear of injury, I assume that's at least a 120lb lift, possibly adding weights if needed to simulate raising the motorcycle and yourself from a lean. I'd also treat supportive boots as a bonus safety margin, and gauge my readiness based on the naked feel of such a lift. Obviously that's going to come well after bicycle readiness.
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Apr 16, 2023 22:15
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