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That looks like the spark plug is too long. Are you sure that one is the same size as the others? If so the spark plug guides all say that is the result of pre-ignition. I have no idea what causes pre-ignition. Wrong octane fuel?
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May 17, 2010 00:01
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UserNotFound posted:The only things bullet connectors are good for are holding probes in place Alligator clips are where it's at yo.
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May 21, 2010 15:35
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The oil drain bolt is generally on the lowest side of the case when the bike is on it's side stand. I'm pretty sure it's on the other side of the bike from the perspective of those pictures. My only other guess would be the bolt that is directly below the filter. The one just above the exhaust.
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Jun 15, 2010 00:48
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The Blue Ridge Parkway is a little out of your way, but well worth the side trip.
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Jun 21, 2010 16:12
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Also, check the clutch lever free play. My transmission has been getting clunky lately and I just realized it was because my cable had stretched a bit.
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Jun 28, 2010 16:11
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What do the spark plugs look like?
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Jun 28, 2010 17:38
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Also, if the chain is really dirty it may appear to have uneven slack. Before you decide to replace it, clean it and check it again to see if it still has uneven slack.
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Jul 1, 2010 21:23
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My carbed Honda V-Twin cruiser also has a fuel pump.
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Jul 1, 2010 22:49
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Z3n posted:Does it say energy conserving in the API bubble? The only concern is with energy conserving oils and wet clutches, besides that for topping off, oil is oil. ChiTownEddie, see the above quote for oil is oil advice. Having too much oil is bad, because the motion of the engine parts will cause froth in the oil pan. Then the bubbly oil gets sucked into the oil pump and fouls up the works because there's not enough fluid to maintain pressure. Too much oil is a bad thing. Also, the method for checking your oil level is: 1. Run the bike till it's warmed up. This ensures that everything has expanded to the normal operational size. 2. Let the bike rest (turn it off) for 3-5 minutes. This ensures that most of the oil has run down into the pan and is resting there. 3. Make the bike level. That is, the seat and handlebars should be parallel to the ground. 4. Check dipstick/fill window to see if the level is within the proper range. Don't be an idiot like me and try to check the oil with the bike running. A wonderfully fine mist of combustion products and vaporized oil will shoot out of the filler cap into your face.
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Jul 30, 2010 19:59
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2ndclasscitizen posted:Anyone know anything about ignition barrels? Not sure if this is helpful or not, but if your bike has the steering lock combined with the ignition barrel then you might try moving the front wheel around and seeing if that affects anything. If that doesn't work I would try a shot of WD40 in there.
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Jul 31, 2010 16:27
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The_Raven posted:I've got a 1980 KZ440A1 (LTD) that I just picked up. Hi there 80s Kawasaki buddy! My first bike was an 83 EN454, which I think is pretty close to your model. Do you know if the PO rejetted the carbs to match the new air filters? It sounds like you have a bit of a lean condition. What do your plugs look like? It could be either too much airflow from the new filter or it could be leaky carb boots. Try a spray test with WD40 to check if the boots are leaking.
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Aug 6, 2010 21:48
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If the battery was completely dead and the bike ran at all then the charging system must be functioning enough to at least generate spark.
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Aug 27, 2010 01:21
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The only way I think might work to check it is if you can get it started without the battery in the circuit at all. A steady 5V won't hurt a new battery, but it's likely there's a small short in your old battery that is draining the juice faster than the R/R can supply it. That's why it won't go above 5V. The big concern with a new battery getting fried would be if the voltage was jumping around a lot above 14V.
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Sep 5, 2010 15:33
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| # ¿ May 21, 2024 14:08 |
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Yes, it's very easy. At most you might need a pair of pliers and two crescent wrenches. Also, make sure you aren't trying to shift into first gear while the bike is moving more than 10 mph, that can cause the clicking noise you talked about before. I used to do that before I learned how to engine brake properly.
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Oct 1, 2010 21:35
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